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Thank you! I wonder how many will skip over thinking they clicked on the wrong video 😅

Eyyy paisano!

Thanks Pedro! I couldn’t find anywhere on MIMO’s site or in the manual for It’s specific intended use, and I was thinking along the same lines being similar to the Ultracade uVC by including 24KHz. Not bad for their time and an interesting piece of downscaling history

@@MagisterHamid I’m down to the Morph 4K which is waiting on hardware and software for analog 240p output, and maybe an episode dedicated to using a PC to output 240p

@@MarcoRetro316not sure if you’ve reviewed it but I’ve owned an Extron Emotia for several years that works perfect on my PVM

@mikeg2491 yes I’ve reviewed the Extron Emotia th-cam.com/video/TjkG0D8V8O0/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared; another scaler that was good for its time but didn’t age so well. I found the colour compression and banding to be the biggest issue, though it was probably adequate for the time to handle lower colour bit depth computers

@@Reyas she’s a beauty. I still have some of the other monitors and TV’s I’ve featured throughout; BVM 20F1, 14L5, widescreen Grundig, couple of smaller sets and VCR combos

🤣 I’m not even sure he’s aware of the nickname I gave him

@@MarcoRetro316 I'm sure he wouldn't mind. Bob's great like that 😀

It’s my first love second to downscaling

​@@MarcoRetro316 proofing box, mixer, pizza peel, dome oven... Good stuff there :D

That smack was earned lol

Hahahahahaha, tinha um pessoal que tratava esse downscaling como o Deus supremo. Ainda levou só um tapa de leve pra acordar. Hahahahahaha

@@albinobeau2 thank you so much for the comment, hearing first hand about others successfully implementing an RGB mod is really awesome. CRT Jesus is shining down lol, keep up the mods!

The market saturation can really fluctuate and stock in some areas have dried up which drives up the price. I do wonder if coastal salt air corrosion has killed off some of the supply. Keep on looking and you’ll eventually find something

@@MarcoRetro316 I found one in Tampa. but it's kind of far. away. If I can't find one near me, I might make the drive it's a Sony KV-30HS420 It looks pretty good, it has the base as well Doesn't have the remote but I checked ebay they're only like 17$

Sony use the same IR codes for their remotes so you should be ok with almost any remote to at least access the main menu

@@MarcoRetro316 Update because I'm bored lol i found a (LG 30fs4d) Near me. I'm in contact with the guy, and I'm probably gonna pick it up Might make a TH-cam video on it I really like the Sony one, but It's such a far drive and they won't respond anyways. This one, I think I got really lucky because it's free. So I'm really happy with that. Also, it has the remote

Awesome pickup! Keep in mind that is likely an HD CRT where 15KHz is processed and scaled. If you input a console at the TV’s native resolution then it’ll look fantastic

Unfortunately no one makes these covers anymore but you never know if a random seller might pop up with a few aftermarket covers for sale

@@MarcoRetro316 ah that sucks, do you know what term is best to search online to try find one?

I’d save a search with all possible models including international eg 5041Q, 6041Q, 6041QM, followed by contrast screen, lens, cover, followed by any possible terms for the material eg. glass, plastic, Perspex, plexiglass. I doubt there’s many factory originals separated from their monitor so it might have some success to have another saved search with aftermarket, reproduction, fabricated

@@MarcoRetro316 great thanks for all the info, my second choice is seeing if I could buff it out or remove it I suppose aha.

@@LOWPASS92 technically anything additional to an analog video chain will degrade the signal, but RGB are passthrough and it shouldn’t be to the point that you’d notice a significant drop in brightness. Do you have the Scart out AND the RCA out connected to 2 different displays?

@@MarcoRetro316 thanks so much for your feedback! Actually no, i only have scart in and scart out connected to the picture adj, no rca…. As soon as I switch the picture adj on, colorymetry is somewhat diminished…. Could it be the power supply?

@LOWPASS92 hmm it could be the power supply and it wouldn’t hurt to try something else, but my device simply passed through RGB and only processes sync. It’s odd that only turning it on darkens the image, some possibilities I can think of: the extra scart cable in the mix is deteriorating the signal, if the cables have resistors on the RGB lines (they shouldn’t), if your picture adjust box has additional termination on the RGB lines, or if the horizontal shift from the scart box doesn’t jive with the TV’s horizontal phase which can darken the image.

@@MarcoRetro316 Thanks Marco,power supply is center positive, 12 v and 1250 mA. I’ m gettin another crt tomorrow, will see if it works better with ths picture adj box

@@IamAlex124 Thanks! The Loewe is a Profil Plus 3472, E3001 chassis with an ESF tube. When I saw my friend’s Planus E3000 with an ESF I knew they were next level and finally got one. Super sharp with thick scanlines for a consumer set

@@MarcoRetro316 beautiful sets ! I’ve got a q2000 a lot older than the E’s noticed it has the same breathing effect as yours in the video on brightness change. Hopefully one day I can grab a e3000/3001 🙂

@IamAlex124 you’ve got a super keen eye and mine definitely exhibits poor blacks and blooming when there’s more white on screen. It doesn’t bother me too much but I do want to look into it once I take a break from downscaling

@@MarcoRetro316 if you work out a fix please make a video or let me know at least 🙏

@IamAlex124 will do!

It’s not done by the controller. If using on original hardware then you need to plug the receiver into the corresponding port. If it’s by USB then that needs to be done in software. The LED lights on the controller are illuminated depending on the controller mapping it’s set to and not player assignment

You got one back in the day? That’s awesome! I’ve deleted uVC from my saved searches so the next one is all yours lol. If you just need 240p output from a 480p then I’d probably go with a GBS-C

You can output 15KHz with an older graphic card and not need to downscale. But if you wanted to use an external scaler, my recommendation for downscaling integer upscaled games is the OSSC Pro.

Thank you Mr Chicken! I’m glad it was helpful, even if not used to assist with the application of an RGB mod it’s nice to know how the sausage is made

@@hellrick633 I later retired the A.R.P. skit but maybe it’s time for a comeback

@@DoggyCet2121 I have never used a Steam Deck but I can’t see why it wouldn’t work

@@leonkiriliuk you’ve got the rarest of the bunch, and what a herculean effort to attempt to dump the fw. I believe the main difference in the latest fw is sync optimisation. These are pretty awesome if used exactly as intended and I got a hint at how seamless it could be when using it on the NEC multi-sync.

@@MarcoRetro316 Exactly. If you have have a 31khz PCB (e.g. Sega Naomi) in your Astro City, you'd be hard pressed to find a better 240p down scaler than the UVC to handle that 640x480 resolution. The UVC was not designed to work with game consoles nor TVs and hence all the issues you've had. Keep up the great videos!

@@parski I use an HDMI to VGA DAC and then use this passive circuit circuit to combine HV sync www.retrorgb.com/building-a-passive-sync-combiner.html

@@MarcoRetro316 Brilliant, thank you!

12:14 keen ears!

Thanks! S-video doesn’t have the same universal approach as RGB but I did find a guide for the BA-1 chassis. It seems a bit involved and according to the OP, they figured a way to add S-video without disabling RF and composite shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?t=65583&start=120

@@MarcoRetro316 Thanks a lot! I’ll check it out anyway.

@@wej4life eyy you might be the one person that benefits from this video haha. I’m glad it could be useful in your setup. If you’re going to use it as it was intended then it’s going to work really well and you shouldn’t need to worry about sync and RGB levels going into your Astro City. Once you set the dip switches and adjust the HV centring on the chassis then it’s good to go and it should just work. Sometimes simplicity is better and you can enjoy more time playing games than messing around with settings.

​@@MarcoRetro316just so I don't screw things up too badly... What is the pinout you set for your dsub output? For reference I'm planning on feeding the UVC output into a Jammaizer device which is designed to convert a 15khz console/PC input to jamma video. I'm looking to eliminate any extra cobbled together jamma harnesses if I can and just keep a cleaner solution altogether since I already have all of these things on hand.

@@wej4life the molex connector? If you have that connector at the top and the db15 connector at the bottom, looking at the molex connector pins from left to right is H V Ground Blue Green Red. It’s in the manual which I’ve linked in the description for reference. You might need to play with the sync dip settings to get it displayed properly

This is the main use case for the UVC from back in the day. I've owned multiple UVC's over the past decade and still have 1 in my New Astro City cab. It's still the best device for taking Sega Naomi 480p and converting it to 240p into your MS9. Naomi native 480i on MS9 looks horrible otherwise. I've also seen 240p on a Samsung trisync in a NNC sit down and Blast City, and prefer the MS9 look (which UVC does a great job in keeping authentic) Trisync monitors make content look too sharp - PC emulator like. Enjoy your MS9 + UVC!

@@MagisterHamid lol there’s a couple. MIMO Genius II is up next

@@MarcoRetro316 ah that one is rare as crap. I remember reading Fudohs review of it.

Cool I cannot wait for the MIMO Genius II review. Do you have one on hand? I am curious to see what power supply to use with the MIMO Genius II.

@@DJCrazyNights yes I have it with me with the original power supply. It’s the same one used in ex_savior’s video.

Cool I picked up a brand new MIMO Genius II a couple months ago but it did not come with a power supply. Could you tell me which one it uses. I can not wait for the review. Maybe I will finally hook mine up HAHA. Thanks for all of the great retro content.

Thank you for bringing this up. When I used SNAC, it didn’t work with the intermediate shifter, though it should have and was possibly just a poor connection. You’re correct that it needs the level shifter, again thanks for bringing this up and I’ve pinned a comment to bring it to attention

Also a good alternative for the learne experienced modder. I bought an Aliexpress TV chassis but haven’t hooked it up yet as the neck connector did not match the CRT. It only has composite input but the jungle chip allows for component. It’s there for a rainy day

@@rawkandetc thank you amico!

@@parski yes, and the Crosspoint addon to output analog video. Apparently the hardware is done and now it’s down to software

@@MarcoRetro316 Really looking forward to your video on it. Oh and great job on these, I can tell you put a lot of effort into them. Thank you for that.

@@parski Thank you!! That’s much appreciated. I’m looking forward to see if Pixel FX does anything different to the OSSC Pro as I’m told the Morph will also decimate. Maybe it’ll also output S-Vid/composite through the Crosspoint? If so then it’ll be a very attractive option

@@sataniachya1840 you’re very correct about the resolution downgrade and IMO 240p is too low a resolution for modern 3D games. I’ve always recommended to output 480i for 3D games if downscaling to a 15KHz CRT, but the uVC unfortunately doesn’t interlace. Though the image is somewhat more preserved in this case because it’s properly scaling rather than decimating which completely strips away half the resolution. Some CRT gamers might just prefer the aesthetics of seeing scanlines, or may have a high TVL pro monitor that has jarring interlace flicker.

I haven’t dabbled with custom masks before. WhenI finally get around to it I’ll let you know how it goes importing masks from the Mister. Otherwise if you’re on discord you could ask in the Classic Gaming group under the OSSC Pro channel

@@MarcoRetro316 ah I see it's an unfinished feature. Thanks for the reply. Could you not reflect that in the wiki? I can't be the only one wasted time trying to figure it out. Also firmware updates need to in uppercase letters, ammend that in the wiki. Great device though, thank you for all the hard work.

@@Wayno220 I didn’t write the wiki 😅 I’m glad you found some answers

@@MarcoRetro316 sorry bud, mistook you for the creator of ossc pro.

@Wayno220 oh Markus/Marqs is an easy mixup. I’m flattered, the guy is a genius

@@RobotChild holding out on us with the uVC’s lol. They’re very niche but could be sought after by some veteran arcade enthusiasts

@@MarcoRetro316 They were quite cheap and plentiful on Ebay back when I first got into candy cabs 12 years ago. I'll probably toss them up for sale sooner or later.

You're sitting on a gold mine. I've sold 2 in the last year for a few hundred dollars each. Figured I only needed 1. :)

I’m not really sure why only 1 TV gets a stable picture while the other doesn’t. There TV has no problem displaying component from another source? Is one an HD CRT and the other is standard def?

@@MarcoRetro316 those are both SD crts. The 27" displays something the 13" shows a black screen

@dremcfleuve if both TV’s display other component sources then I’d check the other variables like the DP to HDMI converter (maybe the converter doesn’t handle 15KHz?), see if the 720x480 custom res is definitely interlacing, and try passing any other 480i sources though the HDMI to component DAC

@@MarcoRetro316 I will have to do more tests. The Playstation 2 works wonderfully with component on both TV-s. I will try the Nindendo Switch through the converter and try also plugging the converter to a HDTV

@@dremcfleuve definitely troubleshoot all the variables in the chain. Keep in mind that the Switch will output as low as 480p and will need downscaling to get to 480i (I might know a guy)

Only the hardcore stick around. I’ve got another niche one coming soon

Thanks Adam! I remember coming across your channel years ago when featuring CRT’s and pro monitors. Great stuff!

Thanks! The fnirsi 138 is good enough for measuring peak to peak voltage and to visualise a simple waveform. I’d probably look for a beefier scope if it’s to interrogate waveforms to help diagnose and fix a CRT

@@MarcoRetro316 - Can you recommend something cheap? I am totally new to this.

@@brentgreeff1115 I’ve been looking at getting an entry level scope and the brand Siglent seems to come up often, second to Rigol. A 2 channel scope is probably all I’ll need but I’m wondering if I should invest more for a 4 channel scope like the Siglent SDS1000X-E. They’re considered great entry level scopes on the eevblog but considering my use case they are a little out of my budget

@@MarcoRetro316 - Thanks will check them out. I want the cheapest one that will do the job.

@@aptgetgnome everything’s rare and expensive on this big island. Thank you for following the series. More to come very soon

​@@MarcoRetro316 240p está se saindo mais caro ou igualmente aos de alta definição.

@@finalboss5545 I’ve unfortunately chosen an expensive hobby 💰

I guess the uVC was good for something then. You’re winning with the OSSC Pro. Thanks for the kind comment!

@@LovingTechLife Grazie David!

@@owenpalmer6461 Hey Owen, thanks for watching and for the comment. Amazing PVM you have there. You might be able to use CRTEmudriver to output 480i via VGA if it’s an older laptop. I haven’t ventured into this yet but I plan on making a video sometime soon. If it’s for video and 3D games then 480i will look vastly better than 240p and a $50 HDMI to component scaler is definitely the cheaper option than most of the Downscalers I’ve featured. There aren’t too many cheap units that scale down to 480i anymore, as most only go as low as 480p but if you can find one then it’ll definitely suffice. If you had the extra money to spend on a unit that will give you more resolution flexibility and picture adjustments then I’d recommend a compatible tvONE Corio2 scaler or the OSSC Pro.

@@MarcoRetro316 Thanks for the reply, that is pretty much what I understood from the research I did and from your videos. really appreciate the conformation though as I have not seen much about PC to 15kHz CRT outside of gaming at 240p. Will continue to enjoy the downscaling chronicles and possibly upgrade if I want to try games other than the PS1 in 240p👍

@@_specialneeds Generational Gamer made a few videos showing that it can be done with physical carts for those systems. Though it really is dumping the rom into memory so it’s not really playing off the cart, and there needs to be some funky workaround like I’ve done to use the carts saves, where a modified core would be better than batch overwriting saves. I actually tried a usb CD drive to read original ps1 discs but the core looks for iso and bin/cue so it didn’t work. But if it can be done in a more streamlined manor for the more popular cores then it’s basically the FPGA of polymega

Thanks mate!