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I built the VGA to Scart adapter with a passive sync combiner so the end result is RGBs www.retrorgb.com/building-a-passive-sync-combiner.html

Thank you!!

It’s an annual tradition that we make our year supply of sauce. The excess bottles sit next to my excess CRT’s

Love me a combo unit!

Thanks!

These will combine HV sync www.ebay.com.au/itm/114489119197?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=bPsiC-xhSsC&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=oXeW_LijToy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY www.retroupgrades.co.uk/product/vga2scart/

@@MarcoRetro316 Thank You!

Not sure which exact OSD section of the video you’re referring to but all the background music are from N64 game soundtracks

Thanks! I have the RGB DVI 300, I’m sure it’s the same as yours. I’ve used it with the SPPCP program and it was really only a GUI to control the unit which didn’t add anything that the unit can’t already do with it’s OSD menu and it didn’t lead to any back door methods of downscaling to 240p. They’re still great to use in a piggy back downscaling chain to drop resolutions to 480p to send into a GBS. They have 0-1 variable frames of lag, not bad.

I’ve only tried it with 1 emulator on windows and it worked, others have reported it to also work. It needs to be in X input by holding start and B

Wow, what a wholesome comment, thank you!

Nice!

Have you tried all of these different button combos listed on the bottom right page here 2:12?

@@MarcoRetro316 the seller sent me a google drive link with an update file along with instructions on how to update the usb receiver. after the update it now works as intended and I'm very happy with this controller, I'm glad I found this video otherwise I would not have heard about this controller. my only nitpick would be that the rumble doesn't feel as good as an original Rumble Pak and if I could replace the motor with a higher quality one it would be perfect.

@jayacheal8401 oh good! Love a happy ending

It’s a great learning experience, just put safety first

@@MarcoRetro316 Hey didn't think you'd see this comment, but could you help me find any sort of guides or tutorials on how I can do so? All I know is I need to tap into RGB signals from the jungle chip then convert them to component. But I can't find anything on how to convert them to component. Also I have zapped myself before on my 21" crt. I touched the Anode cup WHILE the CRT was on. I was trying to eliminate "hissing" from it. Thankfully it shut itself down and I only almost blacked out for two seconds while I was contemplating my life choices.

@@FR4M3Sharma oof that shock sounds painful, be very careful! You’d need to look at the jungle chip/video chips datasheet to see if it has analog RGB or component inputs. I’ve never modded for component as all of my consoles output RGB so I’ve never needed it. If you predominantly have consoles that output component and the TV is only modifiable for RGB, then you’d be best to transcode externally into RGB

@@MarcoRetro316 Alright, thanks. I unfortunately only have an OG Xbox because all those 8-16 bit consoles never made it to my country, I think even the OG Xbox didn't launch here because the two I have are both imported Americans and Japanese models. The thing with Xbox is that it doesn't have any sort of RGB output only Analogue Component. So I have to do this mod, I'll see if I can find something on the Jungle chip. The CRT I have is a generic 21" Composite LG CRT which only has two Composite In(s) and one Out, the only reason I've held onto it because it's manufacture date is around 2008 and it was barely used by the previous owners so it might last me a good while. Thanks again :)

@FR4M3Sharma I see. The OG XBox definitely outputs RGB with a scart cable so you wouldn’t have to transcode. The output resolution through RGBs scart is capped to 480i but if it’s to an SD TV then that’s all you need

There’s no 720i output to my knowledge. The max output taking direct from the wiki is ‘from 240p to 2560x1440@60Hz (or to 2880x2160@60Hz with 2x pixel repetition)’

@@MarcoRetro316 that's a shame, as I have a Philips crt monitor that can do 720i @120hz. It would have been really cool to have it work with my ps5. Also do you know if there is anything like what I am looking for on the market?

@ibleminen not 720i 120Hz specifically. 720i itself is a very uncommon resolution let alone at 120Hz. But I’ll definitely remember to reply if I ever come across a scaler that can output this resolution. Are you looking to upscale or downscale?

@@MarcoRetro316 I am looking to downscale, as the ps5 only can go as low as 720p, and thanks for looking out for such scalers for me.

@@MarcoRetro316 What I am essentially is looking for is a tool, that can take a 120hz progressive input and interlace it on the fly. So my crt can modern consoles at 120hz.

Had a look and they are in stock *just now* Act fast if you were wanting one

@@MarcoRetro316 coming in clutch thank you was able to secure!

Lucky you, I’ve been looking for a UVC for a long time! I know exactly what you mean with using an external shifter to alter the order of fields that the UVC will average into a fresh line to increase the sharpness. This functions the same as an Extron image shifter but at consumer-friendly voltage levels. I’m not sure what range of sync voltage the UVC is expecting as Extrons output TTL level sync, whereas the scart shifter’s sync output will be under 0.7Vpp. Otherwise they function much the same. I have since noticed an infrequent vertical ‘shake’ with the picture adjust box. It might be safest to stick with another Extron interface in your scenario

@@MarcoRetro316 Only problem with the extrons are they are getting expensive , ive seen this jamma picture adjuster on aliexpress i might try though. As for the UVC yes its very good , shame no one has cloned it yet. Thanks

I was calibrating to REC 601

Thanks! It’s a stylish little set

Sounds correct for a consumer set of that size

Thanks! I’m not sure I understand correctly, but rotating looks like it keeps the same resolution but flips the aspect ratio to 3:4 so everything looks stretched and thinned at first 4:45. Then you have to manually add black pillar bars by altering the HV size/position to pad the screen to get it scanned properly. At 8:32 I had one giant black bar at the bottom instead of smaller top and bottom bars but it achieves the same result

@@MarcoRetro316 that's the same result with my tools. need manually adjust h/v. (ios/android) if using direct hdmi in portrait mode, will always show in landscape. with left and right black. to remove that black bar. my extron have limit. thanks btw. 😁👍

You’ve got amazing attention to detail! I haven’t messed with H BLK or equivalent H blanking setting but I’m guessing it could *maybe* fix it. I’m too scared to shift the H centre to where the OSD is completely gone otherwise I’d have to navigate blind just to get it back

It looks like the controllers didn’t come with the the adapter.. I bought them second hand. Did I get scammed?

@@sacpeacebenefits1990 are you sure it’s the same Saffun controller, or is it the official Nintendo Switch Online controller? If it’s the Saffun then it should come with a USB *and* original console receiver. If it’s the official NSO controller then it won’t come with anything as it connects via Bluetooth, which you’d need a Blue Retro adapter to use on the N64

I used twist ties haha. The screws for this fan were a little wider than the ventilation holes on the PVM and I didn’t want to deface the case. Good luck on your hunt finding a PVM. The 20L5’s are very versatile

Thanks Marco! Once I have the cash saved up to afford one & if the 20L5 I receive ends up being top notch in terms of Geometry, Convergence, Color & Sharpness, you bet I’m gonna enjoy that monitor to it’s fullest! Especially with the other resolutions it supports! And of course, I’ll install a fan inside the monitor to help keep it going longer. But that also means I’ll have to equip some heavy duty rubber tipped anti-static gloves to make sure I do not ground myself. Here’s hoping everything goes according to plan & that my PVM dreams will be realized & fulfilled!

Thank you! Recapping it and pressing the firmware was a worthy investment

Hey thanks for checking out the method. I did address that geometry will alter the result and I said that the image should be *appropriately* scanned, as geometry calibration is a whole other topic on its own. Thanks for explaining the grid method you’re using, what TVL estimation do you get on the KV-29FS140 by counting a portion of the grid? Our methods are essentially the same in principal, just with yours going into more detail about scaling the image prior. Around 550 does sound right for a set of that size. The number may sound like PVM territory if the TV were smaller, but at 29” it *must* have higher TVL to delineate horizontal resolution, otherwise there’d be coarse vertical stripes as you see on many smaller low end consumer sets. If it weren’t such a large set then I’d say it sounded unrealistically high. Either way, this is just an accessible way to get an estimation on consumer sets. Thanks again for the constructive comment

It’s a neat add on but not really suited for my gaming environment so I totally get the sentiment. At least I’m getting good use lately for testing and fixing a CRT I’m currently modding for RGB.

Thanks for checking out the video! Why downscale the MiSTer at all if the CRT is 15KHz? You should be able to output native 15KHz without scaling, or do you mean you’re using MisterCade via Groovy MAME?

@@MarcoRetro316 Oh mostly for any cores that don't output native 15khz, so cores like ao486, Sharp X68000 and then even for systems like minimig/amiga some games are actually out of sync range (a lot of them are fine without using the scaler though).Some of the more obscure consoles also output stuff that the 15khz CRT doesn't like.

@@flain283 I oh got you. The only outlet with the DExx is you’ll need 2 DE-10’s; 1 as a MiSTer and the other as a scaler as the DExx runs off a DE-10 Nano. At that point you might at well be getting an OSSC Pro to downscale. I use a custom 240p resolution in the INI file for AO486 core, I’ll post it as a separate comment later tonight though you might already be using the same modeline. I haven’t tested if it precisely divides the scanlines so text and sprites will probably scale unevenly

@@MarcoRetro316 That makes more sense now thanks! I am using a modeline for it (same as i use for the menu output) so i'm interested to see if its the same or not, thanks! :)

@@flain283 I have this at the bottom of the ini file, you could apply it to other cores by putting the core name in brackets in place of ao486 [ao486] ; Set it to "Variable" in the ao486 core instead of 60Hz direct_video=0 vga_scaler=1 vsync_adjust=1 vscale_mode=3 video_mode=1280,152,140,261,240,15,0,19,30105 ; 4x3 for 320x200 games, 16.42kHz, 59.94Hz

Specifically for the GBS or downscaling altogether? The OSSC Pro and DExx have this exact option and it works fantastic

​@@MarcoRetro316 No, not for the gbs. I mean just doing it in general. Also, are there any relatively affordable ways to do it? That sort of thing.

@surfingthechaos in general, then checkout the videos I made on the DExx and OSSC Pro. The DExx received more updates since the video, which brings the lag under 2 frames (except 1080p>480i). If you already have a MiSTer FPGA then this is the best affordable option as the DExx needs to plug into the DE-10 Nano FPGA board. If you don’t have a MiSTer then the OSSC Pro is a better scaler, but it’s not cheap. If you need something on a budget, you could piggy back downscale the GBS like I did in this video, and try and find a cheap Extron scaler that can downscale to 480p with HV size dials. You have to be patient and opportunistic to find them cheap though. You’d be creating your own letterboxed 16:9 that way but those scalers usually have presets so you’d only have to meticulously get it right the first time then save it. Honestly though if aspect ratio is your highest priority, my recommendation is still the OSSC Pro

It should be perfectly safe to use for any TV with Scart RGB. The only safety concern is if the device connected to the input of the image shifter outputs 12v on pin 8, which would be unlikely unless it’s an auto switcher like the gscart

@@MarcoRetro316 So with the power supply. Do I need one that can do up to 9-12volts or can I just get any plug that's in-between the voltage requirement? Also what size is the interface? I don't want to get a plug with an interface that won't fit.

@@SDK2K9 I’m using 9v 1a supply, centre positive, size of the barrel is 5.5mm outer, 2.1mm inner. I’m not sure if it needs more wattage than that, as the power input is just labeled 9-12v, mines always worked fine at 9 watts. 9 and 12 are fairly common, even if they’re only 1A that would probably be ok

@@MarcoRetro316 Thanks for answering my questions. The CRT I got has no info on the Internet, so I have no way to know how to access the service menu. If it even has one that is. This device seems like a good alternative to centering the image while using RGB scart.

If you want downscaling to 15KHz, the OSSC Pro is the king. The RT4K can output 240p with a custom modeline but not 480i

I did not know, thank you! I will look into it

@@MarcoRetro316 no problem. I did it with mine. It’s on the psdev wiki under XRegistry(dot)sys. And setting/display/tvSystem You can find a registry editor

@@MarcoRetro316 setting/display/tvSystem should be set to 0. Pretty sure 1 is PAL I did it along time ago to my ps3.

@@fink32 thanks again, it is MUCH appreciated. It seems pretty straightforward

I’m not sure as it would need to be compatible with the usb receiver’s X/D input mode at the very least

Thanks!

Thanks!

Hi! That sounds like a totally reasonable and expected number. The 68cm Trinitron I tested in this video measured approx 525 TVL with 42 pipe lines, which is the same size tube as your TV. Generally, the larger the set, the more the TVL should be packed in to reasonably resolve the image horizontally, so the approx range of 550 (or maybe more broadly 500-600 to account for cofounders) is expected on a large consumer set

@@MarcoRetro316 What is the dot pitch on your Sony set? Is there a way for me to mesure it?

@pieronastri4120 it wasn’t my set it was a friends so I’m not sure. You can measure an aperture grills stripe pitch starting from one colour phosphor and ending at the start of the next identical colour stripe en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dot_pitch

lol I sprinkled a bit of drama here and there

Thanks! That was Jett Rider on the Nintendo Switch

@@MarcoRetro316 Thanks!

It certainly is! Also, another CRT channel? Subbed!

Yes either the screen, internal scaler, or both. And in the first frame it shows the screen refreshes right to left, to what significance that is I’m not sure.

Unfortunately no. The cartridge port will be occupied by the Analogizer for starters, and the device requires cores in openFPGA to be specially modified for analog output

The MiSTer will always be the pillar of my setup

I read your comment before I started the video. I thought it couldn’t be that bad but holy shit you’re absolutely right.

Thanks PCN!

I came back to this (excellent) video specifically to comment on this, as I've been saying it as "Round Monk III" ever since first noticing the name in some MiSTer related credits.

lol I’m glad it’s not just me, at least you were closer. I thought there were 3 L’s at the end

Thanks for sticking with me! You’ve got 2 of the best monitors on hand. If lowest lag and 720/480 to 240p are your 2 biggest priorities, either the OSSC Pro or RetroTink 5X will suit. The catch with the Tink5x is you’ll need a transcoder on the input and output. As for the OSSC Pro, I’m not sure I’m meant to share, but lagless 720p to 240p downscaling using the Line Multiplier mode will be coming soon in a firmware update. Downscaling to 480i will only be done using Scaler mode and therefore about 1.2 frames of lag, but if you only want to output 240p then it’s not a factor for your setup. Then with the Pro, add the analog output and you’re all set. But yes both aren’t cheap at approx $350USD, but that’s the price for a lagless scaler with those input resolutions

@@MarcoRetro316 thanks! I don’t think there are any other with a better insight in this downscaling issue than you on the internet :-) After each video you released I was “ok in getting an Emotia!” Then “oh no I’m getting a Corio instead” and then “nah the GBS-C seems to fit my setup best” haha. But yeah the OSSC Pro seems like the best simple around set with low lag. I will probably settle with that :-)

@tranceenergy3121 Thank you and I’m flattered, though I consider myself a nerd that’s filling in the gaps from the greats like Fudoh. You dodged a bullet with the Emotia! The colour bit depth is awful for the price they sell for. If the Pro is in your budget, it’s as good as it gets for a line decimating downscaler.

Yes, good ears!

No problemo. I too was hoping for the official DAC to be supported by now. I’ve got the Analogizer and means of downscaling the Dock so I don’t think I’ll be needing the DAC