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7:00 mine was locked in place with some sort of loctite. But with a plier I was able to unscrew it easily.

Glad I could help!

I agree with you completely, and had serious reservations about uploading. However, this was a question I was wondering, and it played a large role in my decision on what combination to use. I figured it is something that a perspective buyer is likely to come across, rather than government bean-counters.

Update, the o ring was just holding it together really good. I ended up pulling down the little white plastic tab and GENTLY pry out the whole tab with the wiring harness. Basically slip the whole step of turning the harness out of the little plastic housing

@@pdg1974 Yeah, the plastic can get quite brittle over the years. Glad you got it out in the end!

@@UncleDon226pretty sure I followed all the steps correctly now it doesn’t want to drive.. maybe not enough fluid? Not really sure it will rev up a little then the rpm’s will hang there for a second and then drop. Reads no codes

@@pdg1974 Low fluid can do that. Remember it has to be running in park when you check the fluid level. Does the indicator on the dash change when selecting different gears?

@@UncleDon226 it was low fluid, just pumped it in til it was full lol

That depends on what your local transmission repair shop charges for a repair. Though, if they're already going inside it with almost 100k miles, may as well do a complete rebuild and put in new clutches. Dealerships typically charge more for labor, and ours is no exception. The cost for us to do an overhaul is almost the same cost as a replacement, so we typically advise the customer goes down that route since the remanufactured transmission has a longer warranty than if we were to rebuild it at the shop. If you only want them to replace the broken part and nothing else, it will be cheaper, but not by much. That's a long-winded way of saying; if you are taking it to a dealership, replace it. If you are taking it to an independent shop, repair it. Sorry to hear that is happening to you, I hope this helps.

@ Thank you, your tips are very helpful.

That's right! If the photos still come out blurry, then the lens may need some adjusting. Not that difficult to do, I've made a video on that too :)

@ Thank you so much! - And thank you for the fast reply. If I still have issues I’ll check out your other videos.

I would double check the fluid level. Remember it needs to be running when doing that. It may look full when it's off, but once it starts, the fluid level drops considerably. My guess is there isnt enough fluid to apply the clutches. Either that, or one of the seals fell out when reinstalling the main control and all the fluid is flowing back into the pan, rather than going to the clutches.

Thank you for feedback. Gotta take it apart again to check. But to move it, have to put it in neutral. If its not connected to slide pin. Would it even go in neutral?

@@RickWardrip It would, the lever on the side of the transmission case remains connected to the parking pawl the whole time, so you can still move it in neutral with the valve body removed. The fact that it shows you are selecting park and reverse on the display means everything is connected correctly, but fluid is not applying clutches. I mentioned in the video that there are a couple seals that like to fall out in the process, so if the fluid level is correct, my guess is one of those. Was it driving before the repair?

@@jaym7369 Now that's just poor etiquette

@@RickWardripdid you fix it

@@Earlthepear69 Words to live buy. I work on them for job security, not brand loyalty!

Fix Or Repair Daily! I gave up on my last Ford when, after replacing a self-destructed water pump on my Taurus and flushing/filling the cooling system. the bloody ingrate blew both head gaskets on the test drive. Sold it for scrap and it's been nothing but Accords since then.

I dont remember the exact year of this one. Maybe 2013 or 2015

Yes. That was the primary reason I chose the Hogue kit over the Maglock. No issues operating the kingpin and dropping the magazine with the bolt held open.

OEM

I'm glad it helped! Yes, the rangefinder window is magnified to assist in focusing, but I cant remember by how much. I want to say it is 2x or 3x, but I'm not sure. It was something they did in the early 1950s around the time they switched to a yellow filter in the rangefinder element due to complaints about difficulty focusing. Thank you for watching!

I used the proprietary Sena, and it works well enough. Not as loud as my other Sena Spider RT1. Which is a bummer because I ride with ear plugs (I used to be a machine gunner, so I have to protect what little hearing I have left). You can open the settings and crank the audio louder, but then the music starts clipping and it sounds terrible. Wish I could upgrade the speakers. Be ready for the helmet to be a bit tight for the break-in process. It loosens up after a couple months though.

@UncleDon226 thanks! 👍

It's a pretty easy fix. You got this, buddy!!

Oh no! I'm sorry that happened. That lock is a horrible design. But I agree, they are good looking helmets. Thank you for watching.

Thank you. The tool is a Transmisison Clutch Spring Compressor. Very handy for this kind of work.

@@UncleDon226 do you have a part number

@@benblevins850 Unfortunately, not. It's a "universal" tool that I got off of Amazon. If you look up "universal transmission spring compressor" you should see it.

Sorry I was talking about the blue holder that you got transmission hooked too

@benblevins850 Oh lol. That's just a transmission holding fixture tool. Not sure the brand or part number, the thing is older than I am.

*you're

@UncleDon226 you are fast -- your fast.. I think the latter sounds better but I never finished school so what do I know 🤔 😏

@@StandFast1611tomatoes potatoes amirite

Cool man. Thanks for stopping by and sharing your opinion. While there are wish or alibaba vests out there for a more affordable price, $800 for a 3A vest with neck, groin, and arm protection is competitive with other trusted, name brand options.

He did not it is very fair price.

@@UncleDon226 I know you said it didn't come with rifle plates, but did it come loaded out like we see in the video with 111a all around? If not, then 800 is nuts.

@@tylerhall6455 Yes, the level 3A ballistic panels were included.

Yeah the audio was heinous. My bad.

Virtually no ventilation. Not a big deal where I live, because it rarely gets above 70 degrees in the summer. Most of my commute is in the 50s or 60s, but if you live in a hotter area, this will probably be too stuffy.

@@UncleDon226, thx for the reply, that's too bad, I really liked this helmet...

@@vnm_8945 If you like the drag style helmets but want good airflow, the Simpson Bandit is probably your only choice. Even the Biltwell Lanesplitter has venting problems, though theirs is the opposite of the HJC. The Biltwell has a large exhaust vent, but no intake vents above the brow. It really shouldnt be this hard to find the perfect helmet with all the choices we have, but I guess we're doomed to make compromises.

Yeah, the US wasnt a very big importer of Soviet cameras because of the whole cold war thing. It's a shame because they're sweet lenses.

When I was looking into Russian rangefinders, I had the hardest time making up my mind on the Fed, Zorki and Kiev. From what I was able to read on various forums, the Kiev has some significant advantages (metal shutters, more speeds, more affordable lenses, etc) but was also significantly harder to service. Pair that with notorious quality control, and the Kiev got the reputation of being the most prone to malfunctions of the three. That said, people tell me that if the Kiev is serviced, it is incredibly reliable and a fantastic camera to use. When I was in the market, I wasnt sure if Russian rangefinders were going to be a good fit for me, so I didnt want to spend the extra money on a serviced Kiev over a serviced Fed or Zorki, which were $50-$100 cheaper. Now that I know I prefer rangefinders over SLRs, I may take a look at getting a Kiev. Problem is, there are so many models of Kiev and I dont know which would be best for me.

@@UncleDon226 I have a Kiev-4AM, the last iteration of them made in 1982. It came with a Helios-103 lens instead of the Jupiter 8. I paid like 200 bucks for it, but it was serviced and honestly I love it. It takes a bit of getting used to, i.e. the famous Contax hold, the different way of changing the shutter speed (quirks like that) but after a roll or two it stopped being awkward and I have a lot of fun with it and have taken some of my favourite shots on it. Also, great video!

@@steps1230 Stop it! I'm not trying to buy more cameras and you guys are making me want to get a Kiev now lol. I heard a lot of people complaining about the "contax grip" but it never scared me away. I constantly have to use a different grip on the Argus C3 to prevent the shutter lever from hitting my finger and messing up the exposure, so it's not a big deal to switch up the grip. I do really like the look of the Kiev with the light meter on top. Many people say the sensor degrades over time, by other people say that they can still be working perfectly fine 60 years later (or at least be adjusted back into spec).

I'm told it's a good one, but the camera and I have a very different opinion on what "in focus" means. But in its defense, it was my first time using film that wasn't a disposable, and I didn't know about film labs at the time. Sending my film to Walgreens probably didn't do me any favors lol. Not to mention my refusal to use an aperture that wasn't 1.8, suffice to say mistakes were made. If I start getting back into SLRs, I'll give it another go. I'm sure it's more capable than I gave it credit for. Thank you for watching!

A lot of people seem to like the Zorki 4 you made! Thanks again, Alin. I couldnt be happier with them!

@@UncleDon226 awesome! Keep me posted with how the paint holds :)

I got a black body FED-2 at an estate sale some years ago. It had some shutter issues so I sent it to Yuri Boguslavsky who runs the FEDKA Russian Camera store in New York. His technician just finished a CLA on that camera and Yuri is waiting to get it back to send to me.

I've watched several of Alin's videos and am impressed with his skill, his organization of parts and documentation of repairs.

@@heyboyer black as in black paint or black vulcanite? AFAIK there were no black painted feds. In which case it's a repaint and it should look awesome!

its on a bed, they're fine.

Oh, very interesting! I hadn't taken a very close look at it because I assumed it was broken. Luckily I havent thrown it away. Thank you!