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Matthew Small
United Kingdom
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 19 ม.ค. 2016
Hand tool and power tool woodworking, with more emphasis on the hand tool stuff. I'm a hobbyist woodworker focussing on traditional cabinet making and joinery, techniques, project builds and tool reviews... If that's your thing, you'll find it here. Like and subscribe for regular content.
Thanks for watching.
Matt.
Thanks for watching.
Matt.
Making a Laptop Table from Mystery Wood.
A relatively simple laptop table that turned out to be very challenging to build. Also... any ID on the wood would be appreciated.
มุมมอง: 543
วีดีโอ
Workshop tips... for idiots like me
มุมมอง 1.3K2 ปีที่แล้ว
5 Tips to make life easier in the workshop... although only idiots like me wouldn't have already have thought of these.
Axminster AT260SPT Planer Thicknesser Review
มุมมอง 10K2 ปีที่แล้ว
A relatively in-depth look at the AT260SPT.
Channel Update and Bookcase Face Frames
มุมมอง 5522 ปีที่แล้ว
Here is a very long overdue channel update, with a background vid of making some face frames for the Billy bookcases in my library room. Yes, I now have a beard and yes, I am now a little fat sausage. Any questions about owt... drop a comment.
5 things you should consider before starting a woodworking project!
มุมมอง 1.4K4 ปีที่แล้ว
This is a talking head video... no project or demonstration in this one, just me presenting my thoughts in the hopes that we can start a discussion. I fully understand if this is not your thing, and unless asked for, it's not going to be a regular occurrence.
How to hand cut through dovetails efficiently and accurately - In-depth video!
มุมมอง 1.1K4 ปีที่แล้ว
In this thrilling instalment, I present my amalgam of woodworking techniques for hand cutting through dovetails in the most efficient way possible... until I find a better way.
Knew Concepts Fret Saw is it REALLY worth the price? Woodworking tool review.
มุมมอง 28K4 ปีที่แล้ว
In this video, I take a close look at the Knew Concepts mk4, 5" fret saw to see if it really is worth the (relatively) huge price tag.
Charnwood W316 Hollow Chisel Morticer Review
มุมมอง 7K4 ปีที่แล้ว
An indepth review of the Charnwood W316 Hollow Chisel Benchtop Morticer.
How to check your squares for squareness - most reliable and accurate method.
มุมมอง 4.2K4 ปีที่แล้ว
As requested by a member of the WWUK Facebook group, just a quick video showing how to reliably and accurately ensure that your woodworking squares are truly square. groups/woodworkingUK
In detail: Modern cabriole legs for the floating top cabinet.
มุมมอง 3364 ปีที่แล้ว
In this video, I go in to more detail about how I made the modern cabriole legs for the recent floating top cabinet build. I talk through the general methods and woodworking tools that I used, but don't take this as the right or only way to do it. Use your imagination and the tools available to you! :)
Preparing a Luban No 4 smoothing plane out of the box for amazingly thin shavings!
มุมมอง 7K4 ปีที่แล้ว
In this video, I take a brand new Quangsheng Luban No 4 smoothing plane out of the box, check everything for flatness and sharpen it ready for work. Watch to see just how little work it takes to get it ready! This video (and others from my chanel) has supporting material available on my website at www.mjswoodworks.com Like, comment and suscribe! Thanks, Matt
Floating top modern hardwood sideboard. Traditional joinery - dovetails - mortice and tenons.
มุมมอง 8684 ปีที่แล้ว
In this video, I make a modern hardwood sideboard with a tradtional twist and a true hand made feel. Lapped/half-blind dovetails, lapped and mitred dovetails, draw-bored mortice and tenons and a beautiful shellac finish.
How to cut half mitred, lapped dovetails... poorly.
มุมมอง 4804 ปีที่แล้ว
The half mitred, lapped dovetail is an excellent and beautiful, traditional woodworking joint for cabinet making when cut well. Watch me butcher it in this video. As always, if you have any questions or suggestions, leave them in the comments below.
Record Power PT260 planer thicknesser review
มุมมอง 35K4 ปีที่แล้ว
Another woodworking tool review; this time, the Record Power PT260 Planer Thicknesser. This is a long form, in-depth review of the machine and covers the performance in-use as well as issues that I've had with the machine. If you want the short version, skip to 25 minutes in where I summarise my findings. If you like the video or find it useful, please take a second to give it a thumbs up, if n...
Building a monster hardwood workbench in a UK garage.
มุมมอง 3.8K4 ปีที่แล้ว
In this video, I build a new workbench from sawn beech timber in my small English garage. The workbench is a best, with a 6 inch thick worktop, chunky legs and frame and will be the last workbench that I ever build... for myself. The video documents pretty much all of the workbench build so if you're looking for ideas for your bench or just want to laugh at my struggles and mistakes, this could...
Mid priced hand plane comparison (Quangsheng Luban and Axminster Rider).
มุมมอง 12K4 ปีที่แล้ว
Mid priced hand plane comparison (Quangsheng Luban and Axminster Rider).
Making an inlayed walnut and maple jewellery box.
มุมมอง 8454 ปีที่แล้ว
Making an inlayed walnut and maple jewellery box.
Too expensive for my shop. I will make my own. Sorry Knew, but have priced yourself out of a market.
I've just bought a Verum/Luban 5½ from Woodworkers Workshop, as I wanted to try a Bedrock type in comparison to my (largely 1920-1950) Stanley Bailey's. Took very little to fettle the edges of the cap iron & chip breaker - maybe 10 minutes in total with #300 then #1000 diamond stones. Iron itself took maybe ten minutes to bring to where I wanted it - very flat as delivered & the Charlesworth ruler method fine tuned the back. If I have time tomorrow, I'll be trying it out against a fully sorted Stanley, with Ray Iles thicker blade. Doubt I'll ever replace my #6 & #7 Stanley's as they've been sorted to the best of my ability & this will likely end up being my go-to for shooting board use.
Looks like a cheap China knockoff.
Great review Matt, looks like I'm in for the Charnwood 10 inch
Greed makes people do stupid things. Changing the finish made this product not worth the money. I was planning on buying one. Now I will buy something else that makes sense.
Thanks for your time and effort, you’ve definitely answered some questions for me in my table saw upgrade pursuit. My only remaining question is how mobile is it or could it be? I’d likely need something like this on castors or a trolley base.
Don't know if you'll see this Matthew but may as well ask anyway... in thicknessing mode, does your bed ever drop a little (not much but noticeable by eye) when you feed the wood in, then goes back to where it should be? doesn't seem like it should be doing that, now, I usually always leave my workpieces long incase of snipe so its not a massive issue but just thought I'd ask if you had come across that issue and if you could suggest a fix. I have this exact model
@IvanWizard-Karl yes is the short answer. I don't think you can avoid it either as the attachment point at the centre of the bed effectively acts as a fulcrum when you push a piece of wood in. I have managed to reduce it by adjusting the tension on the rollers, but haven't managed to eliminate it. I don't think it really matters though as long as it's only tilting in the long axis of the bed and not actually moving down at the centre of the bed. That way, it isn't changing the distance between the bed and the circular cutter and the angle of the bed is irrelevant. If the bed is either moving up and down at the centre or tipping side to side, that's an issue that will show up in the wood and needs to be fixed. Measure all four corners of a work piece and if they're all the same within your allowable tolerance, don't worry about it. Realistically the only points yhamatter are the bits where you're cutting joinery.
@@MatthewSmall I thought the same as you, that it did not matter if the bed tilted end-to-end as long as it pivoted under the cutter block and remained the same distance away however I have been trying to eliminate very slight snipe on my cheaper Axminster hobby version and my conclusion is that it is due to the issue of the bed tilting as described by @Ivan because if I brace the bed at each end the slight snipe is almost eliminated. I think this may be because the pivot point is not at the level of the bed but lower down in the lifting mechanism and on that basis when it tilts the centre would raise ever so slightly. I am ready to hear that my analysis is wrong!
Where are axminister planes made? India? They closely resemble a bench dog.
Its a shit saw
Thanks mate.
Nice review, I'm looking into a new table saw now and I've read that on the w650 that the writhing knife is difficult to remove for blind cuts, have you found that to be the case with this saw?
Rotflol.... So basically.. you hate that you love it, and hated the price, but you do love it, and you wouldn't do it any differently. lol Understood. 🤣Thanks for the honest assessment. I wonder if they have addressed the fit and finish in the 3 years since. hum? I wonder.
He regrets it only when he's not using it because those are the times he has to look at it lol
Does anyone know why this machine might not be turning on in Planer mode. The sensor is engaged underneath the in feed table, am I missing something else?
I appreciate your video for your opinions and thorough testing, but I do have a request: can you please use manual focus in the cutting shots? The autofocus just makes me dizzy.
Your video is a few years old now. Are you still happy with this knew? Is it the 125mm version ? What type /thickness of sawblades do you use for this kind of dovetail work? I now still use chisels for dovetails but I'm looking at a fret saw too for a longer time. It think it's a nice time saver
Great review, thanks
Out of your whole video I liked the most the part about Delux brace. As I checked it's got a three jaws mouth, however the store claim that it accepts square shank bits. Have you tried that? Do really square shank bits work in 3 jaws?
I've owned my selection of fret and coping saws from them for some years now and I bought them for their performance not for ogling at wistfully. They are IMO the best on the market ( when you have the blade on the pull stroke and not push as I noticed you did)
Thanks for this review. High cost but something I hope to get. Keep up the good videos. Cheers.
It you are judging a tool by a totally irrelevant difference between powder coating and anodizing. You are a moron. ( I’m not directing this at you specifically) Aesthetics are important, but function far more so. You have zero knowledge of what it costs to produce a quality tool like this. If they decide to slightly ( and I do mean slightly) “ cut corners” to save the consumer in the long run, I’m all for it. The fact is you used it for the most mundane of purposes. Try using it for inlay or intarsia. It is so far above the competition it is ridiculous If the powder coating gets chipped so what. It is aluminum it will be fine.
I am in the market for a good Morticer your review is excellent, no fuss and no music ,do you think this machine is good for hardwood beams to make a log store and can the lever be reset so theres not so much travel ?
Very informative..and useful. Many thanks
I've just bought this machine from Kendal Tools & it managed to cut 5/8"(16mm) mortises in 110x50mm stock, using the supplied chisels. Yes, they need sharpening but I've not the tools to fully sharpen them, so I'll be picking up some top line ones whilst over in the US (BIG price difference for the same chisels...) Apart from the doors on the access to the chuck (one broke off on first opening), it appears well built & rather than use the stops, I always cut the end lines & manually align. For the price, I'm impressed with the build quality & speed of cutting, especially compared to cutting 36 70mm deep,16mm mortices by hand.I may stone the dovetails to smooth them if I find they're an impairment. Oh & going by this, well done review, you deserve a lot more views & subscribers.
Thanks for the review! Question about dust extraction.... I see from the video it hooks up to the blade guard... how about below the blade/cabinet? Is there a port? If so is it 100mm?
Ive got a riderr plane and its great, im a career bespoke joiner, and I smile every time i use it, the funny thing is most career joiners do a great job and half their tools are rubbish, sometimes i wander if its the hobbyist woodworkers who are overly analytical, or looking for the perfect tool.
Excellent review .
Awesome video, just what a was looking for. Just weighing up which planer thicknesser to get and i think it may have to be this one. Thank you!👍🏼
Thanks very much. Very usefull, as I was going to buy a few Rider planes. I do have about 4 Lie Neilsen planes. But not a 4, 1/2 smoother or a good 5 or 5, 1/2 Jack. Am going to look at the Lu Bonn. You recommend. Not sure if thats spelt correctly. But your review was very appreciated. Kind regards Martin
What ones do you have ? Don't get rider planes awful to be honest
Great stuff just came across you and think your a class act, I’m about to buy the Charnwood table saw after your review. Love your stuff keep it coming please thanks Tony
There is one rather annoying part to this saw. The gap between the blade and the table insert is quite large about 4mm. If you are trimming the end of a piece of stock to length and the piece you cut off is smaller than 4mm it falls down inside and blocks the dust extraction. It's a pain to get out. I suggest you buy some special tape designed for this very purpose. It will save you a lot of hassle.
Thank you very much for your honest appraisal!
What blades does it take pinned or unpinned
Hopefully (since this vid is two years old) you have learned to keep pushing down on the outfeed side not the infeed side that should clear up the issues you are having. Start pushing it through on the infeed but as soon as there is enough on the outfeed only push down there. Hope this helps
Who gives a shit about machine marks. Or powder coating vs anodized? Is it the best tool on the market? Yay or nay? End of
I flattened the sole of my Stanley no 7 as it was terrible. To do it by hand would have taken hours. I used my belt edge sander with a worn out belt. It was magic and transformed the plane. I find my Luban (Qiangsheng) no 5 great but a bit heavy. The low angle Jack is much more expensive than the rider.
I've had this saw for a few years now. I finally got the upgrade fence, this has transformed a good saw into a great tool I wish I had done it sooner.
Bigfella, can I ask which upgrade fence you bought please?
Can I ask how loud is it cheers
It's still a machine tool so it's not exactly quiet, but my old PT was the loudest tool in the workshop and this one is the quietest. It's nowhere near as loud as my tablesaw, quieter than my bandsaw, mitresaw and dust extractor... the difference between this and a straight bladed PT is massive. It's one of the main reasons I spent the money as the PT tends to get used for hours at a time on a project.
First time on this channel. Love the Ron Swanson 😂
My record planer thicknesser froze today the power is going to it the blades just aren't turning does any one have any idea of the problem
Thank you for making this video and I purchased the 629 having seen your film. It's now in use and perfect (nearly) for my needs.
The workbench is fantastic, my congratulations. I was surprised to see you standing on a ladder to cut the dovetails with a Japanese saw. Haven't you considered placing the piece of wood on a table and, sitting on a low stool, cut comfortably while simultaneously seeing two of the two sides to be cut and facilitating a highly precise cut?
Excellent video I may buy this today !
Thanks Matthew, great video. Was looking at the Metabo HC260 more for space reasons rather than budget but your video has me thinking i should go with a heavier unit with cast iron tables. Or just stick with what I'm doing at the moment which is hand plane one face, dimension on bandsaw and hand plane parallel and joint on the router table. Takes a lot longer though!
Thanks for a good review. Some people expect too much for a low cost machine. I'm waiting for mine to be delivered.
They are killin ypu on the price! Its half that price in the US...AND $190 Cad. I am unimpressed with the one I got yesterday.
Hi Matthew thanks for this great real-world review. One quick question. Can the sliding carriage and the side table be swapped around?
Great video Matt, you cover a good number of issues that many other reviews haven't touched on. I bought a second hand Metabo HC260C which, apart from the blade guard, is very similar to your machine. It was cheap enough but I soon discovered that the infeed and outfeed rollers were worn and the plastic bearings that they run in were in very bad shape. Looking inside the bores of the bearings it's clear that the roller tensioning bolts (the ones you mentioned as being tricky to adjust) had been over-tightened and the bearing surfaces were badly deformed so that it was very hard to rotate the rollers. I am glad I found this out and was grateful to discover that spares are easy to get online (for the Metabo at least - I feel certain that spares for the other brands of this machine are similarly easy to find). Two new rollers and 4 bearings cost me just over £100.
Hi Matt, great review you've got there. It's been 2 years, how is the table saw holding up? Would you recommend it for a newbie? Thinking of going for the W650 or the itech 250. I'm a bit torn between both. How accurate is the sliding table? Does it go out of alignment? Like I said, I've got my eyes on the itech 250, but I'm not confident about the fence. It looks flimsy on the eyes. You advice would be very helpful to a potential woodworker.
Excellent review. The saw looks to be a great performer. But the price is just out of bounds and not reasonable for what you're getting. Thanks!
Thank you ! I have the iodized one . My one is good ! I don't like the color and shine !