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Its a shit saw

Thanks mate.

Nice review, I'm looking into a new table saw now and I've read that on the w650 that the writhing knife is difficult to remove for blind cuts, have you found that to be the case with this saw?

Rotflol.... So basically.. you hate that you love it, and hated the price, but you do love it, and you wouldn't do it any differently. lol Understood. 🤣Thanks for the honest assessment. I wonder if they have addressed the fit and finish in the 3 years since. hum? I wonder.

Does anyone know why this machine might not be turning on in Planer mode. The sensor is engaged underneath the in feed table, am I missing something else?

I appreciate your video for your opinions and thorough testing, but I do have a request: can you please use manual focus in the cutting shots? The autofocus just makes me dizzy.

Your video is a few years old now. Are you still happy with this knew? Is it the 125mm version ? What type /thickness of sawblades do you use for this kind of dovetail work? I now still use chisels for dovetails but I'm looking at a fret saw too for a longer time. It think it's a nice time saver

Great review, thanks

Out of your whole video I liked the most the part about Delux brace. As I checked it's got a three jaws mouth, however the store claim that it accepts square shank bits. Have you tried that? Do really square shank bits work in 3 jaws?

I've owned my selection of fret and coping saws from them for some years now and I bought them for their performance not for ogling at wistfully. They are IMO the best on the market ( when you have the blade on the pull stroke and not push as I noticed you did)

Thanks for this review. High cost but something I hope to get. Keep up the good videos. Cheers.

It you are judging a tool by a totally irrelevant difference between powder coating and anodizing. You are a moron. ( I’m not directing this at you specifically) Aesthetics are important, but function far more so. You have zero knowledge of what it costs to produce a quality tool like this. If they decide to slightly ( and I do mean slightly) “ cut corners” to save the consumer in the long run, I’m all for it. The fact is you used it for the most mundane of purposes. Try using it for inlay or intarsia. It is so far above the competition it is ridiculous If the powder coating gets chipped so what. It is aluminum it will be fine.

I am in the market for a good Morticer your review is excellent, no fuss and no music ,do you think this machine is good for hardwood beams to make a log store and can the lever be reset so theres not so much travel ?

Very informative..and useful. Many thanks

I've just bought this machine from Kendal Tools & it managed to cut 5/8"(16mm) mortises in 110x50mm stock, using the supplied chisels. Yes, they need sharpening but I've not the tools to fully sharpen them, so I'll be picking up some top line ones whilst over in the US (BIG price difference for the same chisels...) Apart from the doors on the access to the chuck (one broke off on first opening), it appears well built & rather than use the stops, I always cut the end lines & manually align. For the price, I'm impressed with the build quality & speed of cutting, especially compared to cutting 36 70mm deep,16mm mortices by hand.I may stone the dovetails to smooth them if I find they're an impairment. Oh & going by this, well done review, you deserve a lot more views & subscribers.

Thanks for the review! Question about dust extraction.... I see from the video it hooks up to the blade guard... how about below the blade/cabinet? Is there a port? If so is it 100mm?

Ive got a riderr plane and its great, im a career bespoke joiner, and I smile every time i use it, the funny thing is most career joiners do a great job and half their tools are rubbish, sometimes i wander if its the hobbyist woodworkers who are overly analytical, or looking for the perfect tool.

Excellent review .

Awesome video, just what a was looking for. Just weighing up which planer thicknesser to get and i think it may have to be this one. Thank you!👍🏼

Thanks very much. Very usefull, as I was going to buy a few Rider planes. I do have about 4 Lie Neilsen planes. But not a 4, 1/2 smoother or a good 5 or 5, 1/2 Jack. Am going to look at the Lu Bonn. You recommend. Not sure if thats spelt correctly. But your review was very appreciated. Kind regards Martin

Great stuff just came across you and think your a class act, I’m about to buy the Charnwood table saw after your review. Love your stuff keep it coming please thanks Tony

There is one rather annoying part to this saw. The gap between the blade and the table insert is quite large about 4mm. If you are trimming the end of a piece of stock to length and the piece you cut off is smaller than 4mm it falls down inside and blocks the dust extraction. It's a pain to get out. I suggest you buy some special tape designed for this very purpose. It will save you a lot of hassle.

Thank you very much for your honest appraisal!

What blades does it take pinned or unpinned

Hopefully (since this vid is two years old) you have learned to keep pushing down on the outfeed side not the infeed side that should clear up the issues you are having. Start pushing it through on the infeed but as soon as there is enough on the outfeed only push down there. Hope this helps

Who gives a shit about machine marks. Or powder coating vs anodized? Is it the best tool on the market? Yay or nay? End of

I flattened the sole of my Stanley no 7 as it was terrible. To do it by hand would have taken hours. I used my belt edge sander with a worn out belt. It was magic and transformed the plane. I find my Luban (Qiangsheng) no 5 great but a bit heavy. The low angle Jack is much more expensive than the rider.

I've had this saw for a few years now. I finally got the upgrade fence, this has transformed a good saw into a great tool I wish I had done it sooner.

Can I ask how loud is it cheers

First time on this channel. Love the Ron Swanson 😂

My record planer thicknesser froze today the power is going to it the blades just aren't turning does any one have any idea of the problem

Thank you for making this video and I purchased the 629 having seen your film. It's now in use and perfect (nearly) for my needs.

The workbench is fantastic, my congratulations. I was surprised to see you standing on a ladder to cut the dovetails with a Japanese saw. Haven't you considered placing the piece of wood on a table and, sitting on a low stool, cut comfortably while simultaneously seeing two of the two sides to be cut and facilitating a highly precise cut?

Excellent video I may buy this today !

Thanks Matthew, great video. Was looking at the Metabo HC260 more for space reasons rather than budget but your video has me thinking i should go with a heavier unit with cast iron tables. Or just stick with what I'm doing at the moment which is hand plane one face, dimension on bandsaw and hand plane parallel and joint on the router table. Takes a lot longer though!

Thanks for a good review. Some people expect too much for a low cost machine. I'm waiting for mine to be delivered.

They are killin ypu on the price! Its half that price in the US...AND $190 Cad. I am unimpressed with the one I got yesterday.

Hi Matthew thanks for this great real-world review. One quick question. Can the sliding carriage and the side table be swapped around?

Great video Matt, you cover a good number of issues that many other reviews haven't touched on. I bought a second hand Metabo HC260C which, apart from the blade guard, is very similar to your machine. It was cheap enough but I soon discovered that the infeed and outfeed rollers were worn and the plastic bearings that they run in were in very bad shape. Looking inside the bores of the bearings it's clear that the roller tensioning bolts (the ones you mentioned as being tricky to adjust) had been over-tightened and the bearing surfaces were badly deformed so that it was very hard to rotate the rollers. I am glad I found this out and was grateful to discover that spares are easy to get online (for the Metabo at least - I feel certain that spares for the other brands of this machine are similarly easy to find). Two new rollers and 4 bearings cost me just over £100.

Hi Matt, great review you've got there. It's been 2 years, how is the table saw holding up? Would you recommend it for a newbie? Thinking of going for the W650 or the itech 250. I'm a bit torn between both. How accurate is the sliding table? Does it go out of alignment? Like I said, I've got my eyes on the itech 250, but I'm not confident about the fence. It looks flimsy on the eyes. You advice would be very helpful to a potential woodworker.

Excellent review. The saw looks to be a great performer. But the price is just out of bounds and not reasonable for what you're getting. Thanks!

Thank you ! I have the iodized one . My one is good ! I don't like the color and shine !

My god move on past the damn paint. This is obviously a hobby for you

Fantastic review

My son and myself have the W619 and is a awesome buy, very high quality and durable maschine. well worth the money.

I can’t stand my knee feet saw. The blade is constantly coming out of the clamps. It frustrates me beyond belief. It’s probably one of the worst purchases I have made.

Nice project Mathew, turned out well in the end. But what a pity about your bench, a few choice words there i bet.

Hi thanks for the great video. I'm quite new to woodworking (long experience in engineering), so your warts n' all explanation is very helpful for what I need to watch out for. Thanks again.

Thanks for a great video. Yours is the best review on this.

Had this saw for 2 years now and have to say it's not easy to load into an estate! It's 129Kg packed!! Two or three man job to move it. Once you get past the usual faults and niggles common to all saws at this end of the budget, it performs well so is worth persevering with. Common issues include awkwardness of setting up fence but it's easy enough with patience. Sliding mitre table is the most difficult to square up but once set, stays true unless you bang the table or track. Nuts and bolts provided are rubbish and need replacing with decent ones. The main thing to check is that when mitre table is mounted, it's level with the main table and you square it up by using feeler gauges or a digital vernier and ensure the track is dead square to the mitre slot on the main table. The actual mitre gauge is then set by means of the cam adjuster. The main let down on this saw is twofold. The writhing knife is a PITA to removed and doesn't drop low enough so needs cutting down a little and the dust extraction is worse than woeful and is a complete after thought. Most of the dust ends up on the floor under the machine and the angle adjuster for the blade needs sawdust regularly cleared from its adjustment slot. Other than that it's a great saw for the money.