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Autism + Special Intrest + enought Time & Money = Guys recreating military like equipment lol

Damn, I wish I had the means to make something like this. I'll be watching this with great interest!

I'm not really into submarines, but your video gave me an idea to modify an AC Infinity blower and filter kit to swap out the activated carbon for soda lime granules. I'm pretty sure that should suffice for reducing the CO2 levels in my office. Right now, they're peaking above 1,000 PPM and that's affecting my alertness and concentration. No amount of coffee will fix that.

Hi Hank I have 2 questions for you what is the O.D. of the hull Im interest in building a submarine But I'm struggling with hull O.D. as well, I looked at the video of when you put the reinforcement rings and you said that it was 50" and when you sit in it it looks very large like 60" to 70" can you show me the O.D. in the next video please and also the second question is can you put the building a submarine in a Playlist on TH-cam love your work bud keep it up I'm learning another and more questions are on the way.

Really cool. Be careful with overpressure and rapid release for the hatch jamming issue. You don’t want to fizz yourself up!

Submarine Yoda :)

Happy father's day Hank!

nice lathe

Just curious - what was the movie?

Looks it’s working Hank.

Hello Hank! I am a Metallbauer (Fabricator?) in Germany, Your U-Boots are my dream! One day i will build my own, and its Because of you! Best of luck to you with yours. Please always upload your videos, they are too much fun to watch!

Could you make a video on the propeller shaft seal?

How deep you going to go ? Could you do a Timelapse of construction?

It is interesting that there's a gasket on the window that only works at atmo pressure. The physical dynamics are so far beyond even guessing at, meaning it is fascinating to learn new things about submarine engineering from your channel!

Making great progress

Hello Frank, thanks for posting you sub construction videos. I really enjoy them. I'm a scuba diver and don't know if I'll ever make a human submarine but I've been looking at building a UAV or underwater drone. I'll probably repurpose one of my underwater camera enclosures for the electronics. I find your videos inspirational. Thanks again.

Hank, you mentioned using a hand pump or electric pump to push water out of the variable ballast tank. Why not use air pressure?

It's awesome to follow this project along! Loving the daily updates, Dad!

are you planning on having a snorkel for the diesel engine or will it only be used for when the sub is fully surfaced?

I'm not overly claustrophobic, but that sub would push my limits. Keep building and posting!

Dumb question alert…… will you be fitting those adjustable fins that they have on big submarines what for adjusting the pitch while flying through the water?

How the devil did you get up under there to weld the “T” crossbars? Not a welder myself, so it may be an ignorant question!

Do you need to use front and rear trim tank?

I am ver impressed by thisproject. Is a great inspiration. Good luck.

I really like this format. It seems like every day there's an update that's not going to eat up half an hour, just another installment of watching this awesome machine take shape.

Thank you for the inspiring videos.

I'm a fan, keep up the videos Hank!

Great that it works so well with bar stock... I just wonder if it would work with T-stock as well, so you could avoid additional welding

I wonder if you could use that purple foam stuff on the walls to fill up the gaps so you wont trip on them?

I used to be a welder at a nuclear sub fabrication facility 30 years ago. The Navy was very particular about preheat and temp control during welding, for the pressure hull.

What do you mean “T”?

Love seeing all the work going into these awesome machines your making, keep the videos coming!

Im still in the planning stages probably will be for a while, thank you for documenting your journey lots of helpful information in these videos.

Doing a lot of stuff I would have done differently. BUT you are doing it nonetheless. Gonna keep following and cheering!

It'll all be worth it when you're cruising around inder water. Great job 👏

Great stuff Hank, you are an artist.

Awesome homebuilt tool 😎👍

Enjoying each build episode. Wish my press would bend the stainless for my construct that easily.

Thanks so much for the demo. I'm amazed how easy you did that. I guess it may be because it's really thick makes it easier. (?) I've tried to bend smaller flat bar like that and it goes crazy and/or pops out of the press.

I know it would be a pain, but I'd love to see a video of you forming those ring sections!

This is the greatest build on TH-cam…. Absolutely fantastic

"It works so good I may even paint it" xD I really like the almost daily updates! Ciao!

Good work you I wanna see how working please the mecanism thanks

What adsorbent do you use ?

Some thoughts from a mechanic with no submarine experience: - Does it affect the structural hull integrity long term, when the heat exchanger part of the hull changes its temperature frequently? It works on boats (that not are designed to sink), but there is no pressure involved (cyclic stresses). - More coolant makes the system slower in changing temperature (more water needs more energy to heat up). - Nearly all coolers/heat exchangers have some sort of fins, to maximise the transfer surface (eg watercooled processors in PCs or cooling fins on electronic boards) - How to avoid air traps, heat spots and corrosion inside the heat exchanger and how to check for it?

I have keel cooling tank on my narrow boat in the uk. It is about 2” thick and welded on to the side of the hull . I have seen them flat on the bottom of some boats. I think that having the thicker tank allows the water to slow down and separate out in to thermal layers as it passes through the tank. A tank mounted on the side of the hull should be more efficient as the warm water will enter at the top and thermosyphen so cooler water is drawn from the bottom. It’s also much easier to bleed the air out on a vertical tank . Could I suggest making your tank quite wide so it wraps up each side of the hull and having the top hose from the engine feed into the top of each side of the tank and drawing off the cooler water from a single fitting at the bottom. I know it’s a bit more plumbing having to split the feed water but it would make the system more efficient. Also fit a bleed screw on each side to release any trapped air. Having the tank a bit thicker will also give a bit of thermal inertia to the system as it will hold a fair bit more water. Most tanks will have some internal baffles normally to make sure the coolant travels around more surface area rather than a straight line between the pipe fittings. If you can wrap that tank up the sides a bit and make it at least an inch thick with two top hoses I think it will be very efficient. It would mean putting a tee pice in the top hose and running a pipe which could be a half the diameter down each side of the hull to the skin tank on each side. Hope this helps

I'd probably weld a wide belt across the standing frames under the tower to work as the t-bar, the water cooler reservoir and the doubler at once 🤔

One from the peanut gallery: The designer in me wants to see that doubler plate cut into a semicircle rather than a rectangle. 😁

I have some limited knowledge of air and water cooling but it's all from trial and error. I guess if anyone knows thermodynamics there should be a formula to calculate your problem. Even though you are running your submarine in freezing water all that matters is heat transfer. Your plan is to make a cooling chamber with direct hull contact. You will need certain amount of surface to transfer all of the heat from water to hull otherwise thick hull will reach certain temperature and you will just circulate hot water back to the engine, no matter what flow rate you have. As you mentioned radiators have very small chambers with thin mesh and reason is heat transfer. You can add some grooves to increase surface area but I have no clue how to calculate how much heat you produce and how much surface you need.

from a metal standpoint, the thicker the metal will always allow storing of heat/energy, over thinner metals. as for cooling, it should maintain a stable temp without overheating.