Good progress Hank. For future videos I cant wait to see how you handle control components like rudders and bow planes. Since you are running with a hydraulic propulsion system would you use that also for hydraulic steering and control? Then there’s the whole interior layout of valves and all that stuff… I think this is what makes it all so fascinating.
Yes there is a lot of small stuff that takes a lot of time, but more interesting for me. Also I will be glad to get past the dirty stuff. I do enjoy the fabricating, but only to a point.
Check out the video's from my two man submarine "Nekton Gamma" at Lake Tahoe. I put side tanks on that sub. I want to keep this one very stream lined and hope to not have to add side tanks making it wider to plow through the water. I do agree, side tanks are best for stability though.
@@scottkremee2601 There are items that can be done in different ways. Those items are decided into the build as it makes more sense. I am kinda odd that way.
Instead of SCUBA tanks, why not the much larger high pressure tanks, similar to the ones used in welding or medical applications. They come in sizes well over 400 cubic feet. That should be enough to blow ballast several times.
Scuba compressors of 200bar(3000psi) often can do safely more, and overpressure valves are often adjustable. They work just less efficient. Second: carbon scba tanks for 300bar got quite cheep from Chinese vendors. Also if you fill them lower, f.x. with only 230 bar, you gain additional safely margin.
I'm building my own rebreather's since 20 years. Since ca. 2010 I only use carbon style SCBA tanks (please google that they are for fire department and normal not diving). They are always rated 300 bar. Only when it's pure O2 I'm hesitating to fill more than 200 bar. But air and helium mix is fine. If not mistreated the are quite save, burst pressure is said to be higher than 800 bar. Only scratches are real killer criteria. And do not press them too much in a fixation, give them f.x. some rubber to not break the fibers.
Yes I have, but the steel tank adds much needed weight and it will cost nothing to build other than shop supplies. Also a bladder would have a life expectancy.
I love hearing all these design decisions and how cost plays in
Cost is a factor when I have options with no consequence. Safety items cost what they cost.
Good progress Hank. For future videos I cant wait to see how you handle control components like rudders and bow planes. Since you are running with a hydraulic propulsion system would you use that also for hydraulic steering and control?
Then there’s the whole interior layout of valves and all that stuff… I think this is what makes it all so fascinating.
Yes there is a lot of small stuff that takes a lot of time, but more interesting for me. Also I will be glad to get past the dirty stuff. I do enjoy the fabricating, but only to a point.
Good move to high pressure, consider ballast tanks on the outside port & starboard. Plumb and blow ballast at the bottom of your cylinder.
Check out the video's from my two man submarine "Nekton Gamma" at Lake Tahoe. I put side tanks on that sub. I want to keep this one very stream lined and hope to not have to add side tanks making it wider to plow through the water. I do agree, side tanks are best for stability though.
@@HankPronk wanting a fast sub, not a deep water submersible. Just refrain from adding torpedoes or ICBM's.
@@GrantOakes Oh, you are no fun at all hahaha
Can you show us a general sketch of what submarine will look like?! 😱😁🤪👍👍🇺🇸
I am working on that with a friend who is doing Cad drawings.
How much of it is design on the fly? I tend to play around with stuff.
@@scottkremee2601 There are items that can be done in different ways. Those items are decided into the build as it makes more sense. I am kinda odd that way.
Instead of SCUBA tanks, why not the much larger high pressure tanks, similar to the ones used in welding or medical applications. They come in sizes well over 400 cubic feet. That should be enough to blow ballast several times.
Absolutely, if I find one or two, I would grab them.
Scuba compressors of 200bar(3000psi) often can do safely more, and overpressure valves are often adjustable. They work just less efficient. Second: carbon scba tanks for 300bar got quite cheep from Chinese vendors. Also if you fill them lower, f.x. with only 230 bar, you gain additional safely margin.
Agreed, I tend to fill them a bit under. Are those cheaper tanks well rated?
I'm building my own rebreather's since 20 years. Since ca. 2010 I only use carbon style SCBA tanks (please google that they are for fire department and normal not diving). They are always rated 300 bar. Only when it's pure O2 I'm hesitating to fill more than 200 bar. But air and helium mix is fine. If not mistreated the are quite save, burst pressure is said to be higher than 800 bar. Only scratches are real killer criteria. And do not press them too much in a fixation, give them f.x. some rubber to not break the fibers.
Iirc some ww2 german midget submarines used the engine exhaust as additional LP blowing system. It was even used so under water in emergencies
I have heard that, I wonder how the engine likes that? Its probably just fine
@@HankPronk the engine is fine with it, the sailors don't like the sudden drop in cabin pressure whose air the engine pumps in. 🤕
@@patrickfle9172 I can see that, with a sailboat being so air tight. I have to run the diesel with the hatch open ora a snorkel valve.
@@HankPronk i'll copy and translate a report about that use case of the engine for you, later after work.
Did you ever consider a bladder to hold your diesel fuel with a water compensated thin wall stainless steel tank to hold the bladder?
Yes I have, but the steel tank adds much needed weight and it will cost nothing to build other than shop supplies. Also a bladder would have a life expectancy.
Boy I think you’re living the dream
Out of interest, are you planning on a snorkel?
I am undecided but I probably will