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Thanks, yes they are plastic, and I’ve used them multiple times. They have lasted really well

@@HeatherGoldieGallery Heather, thank you very much!

Thankyou!

🙏

Thankyou glad it was useful!

Thanks, glad it was useful!

Hi, you can sharpen them very easily, I usually sharpen my tools between projects anyways, and have used them on different surfaces before, their website is really helpful for info on various tools too, depending on your project. For example, they have specific tools for carving wood sculptures. Hope that helps

Hi, I haven’t done any wood sculpture carvings before, but check out the pfeil website, they have specific tools for wood carving which would probably be better suited for your project

It’s a good logo 😊

Hi, normally before I start each new project, depends on the frequency you use them. You’ll be able to tell when they need sharpening as the cut on the block won’t be as smooth or easy

Sorry for my slow reply, didn’t see your comment earlier. I wouldn’t recommend using the textured side as you won’t get a smooth even distribution of ink on the paper when you press. The smooth side works much better for a good print. You could experiment with the rough side though and see if it’s an effect you like, I haven’t played around with it much myself. Hope that helps

Hi, sorry for my slow reply, I didn’t see your comment earlier. Yes you can use oil based ink with the vinyl, is works just as well as water based ink, and I’ve never had to do any sanding on the block. Hessian backed grey lino can have textured/uneven surfaces sometimes as it’s a more natural product, so I understand why some people sand it, you don’t get the same issues with plastic vinyl. Sanding it would just scratch the surface. Hope that helps

Thankyou!

Hi, I use 3mm thick lino or relief printmaking vinyl, in a jig with ternes burton pins and it works perfectly. I use a blanket between the pins and roller though so I don’t damage the rubber. You can adjust the height of the roller too. I don’t use clay at all so I’m not sure but I imagine it would mess up the rubber roller, I’m not sure how you’d clean that off. Hope that helps

@@HeatherGoldieGallery Yes, thank you, it did help. Regarding the clay, there would be canvas between it and the roller. Can you make a video showing your process with the pins when you find the time? That would be lovely.

Hi John, apologies I haven’t experimented with metallic ink on birch wood, but I have used Cranfield metallic oil based ink on lino and Japanese vinyl, both of which have been excellent! I know many other printmakers use that brand for metallic ink too, might be worth a try!

Thanks 😊 don’t worry I made lots of mistakes when practising reduction prints, I started with cheaper paper so it felt like a fun experiment rather than an expensive investment

They can be slow to dry, especially in winter. I always allow ink to dry between layers. In my experience wet on wet layers can blur and slide, and take even longer to dry in the end, as the layer underneath has no air flow. Hope that helps

Thanks for the message, I agree, I always struggled with the hard red rollers, I remember using them in school when I was a kid, which is why I first picked them up as an adult. Glad I quickly switched!

Yep, its a bit like starting kids off with a cricket bat to learn tennis!

Hi Jane, they are ternes burton registration pins, I bought them from HandprintedUK online, but I’m sure other stores will sell them too

I’ve had mine for 3 years now and they still work perfectly, I sharpen them once in a while but it’s really easy to do

Hi, my blog post might help, I list my favourite stores for buying equipment (not sponsored) I buy rollers from the same places - www.heathergoldiegallery.com/blog/printmaking-product-recommendations

English is not my first language so I'm sorry if I worded things a little bit weird

Hi, sorry for the slow reply, I didn’t see your message! Yes it’s smudge proof when dry, but you can’t get it wet again with water/wet hands as it will damage the print and paper. Schmincke inks are touch dry in 15-20 mins normally for me. You can layer on ink in the normal way with a printing press or barren. Schmincke inks are water based. Hope that helps.

thank you so much!@@HeatherGoldieGallery

Thanks, I store mine upright, I made a simple holder for them that the handle slots through, so the roller itself isn’t touching anything, worked well so far

Thanks a lot 😊

Hi Trent, that sounds like a fun project, it depends on the size of the design, but my favourite for detailed line carving is the 12/1 V gouge, so it’s 1mm in width with a deep sharp V. The U gouges really depend on the amount of space you want to clear on the block, I like a nice small 9/2 but I usually work a lot of detail and layers into 5x7 inch blocks. Hope that helps

Hi Maria, normally when you order tools online they will have the two numbers listed on their website to show the size, it helps when you can’t see the tools in person. On the actual metal tool itself there is only one number, that’s to show depth of the V or U shape of the tool. You can easily measure the width of the tool in person (that’s the second number) or ask a staff member in a physical printmaking store, who are usually very knowledge, if you need advice on the size of the tool.

Hi Anette, I have a blog which lists the printmaking products I use and where I buy them from, on my website here: www.heathergoldiegallery.com/blog/printmaking-product-recommendations hope that helps

Hi Sarah, the gold compound is quite tough, you have to rub it on the slipstrop with a little bit of force, it might look a bit flaky but that’s normal, mines always worked well even though the compound is hard

@@HeatherGoldieGallery thank you very much. I'm quite new to this art form. 👍🏻

Thanks for the lovely feedback, I appreciate it

Sorry to hear that. A few of the printmakers in the 'Linocut Friends' Facebook group have recommended joining the 'Printmaking with Cold Press Laminators' Facebook Group. Apparently the presses are very similar with some DIY on the handle (I can't vouch for this personally) but it might be worth a look if it's a relatively inexpensive option in the US. Wishing you luck in the search!

I believe they ship there now. I live in California end they shipped one to me

I live in Michigan and one was shipped to me.

Thanks for the heads up.@@wendykathryn2325

Hi Felicity, I am a linocut printmaker, I haven't had any issues with using rubber rollers. I use a cheap fleece blanket between the roller and lino to protect it (different printmakers using different blankets depending on their preference/needs) and it's lasted with no damage so far!

Thankyou 😊

Hi, yes that’s one of my favourite tools, I use it all the time and sharpen it on the slipstrop

@@HeatherGoldieGallery thank you very much 😊

Hi, the product name is Japanese Relief Printmaking Vinyl, which should bring the product up in online searches. I buy mine from lots of different places in the UK, including online at Handprinted UK and Intaglio Printmakers in London.

Hi, do you add water to the paint to make it thinner? Thanks 🙏🏻

Portable Printing Press Company

@@HeatherGoldieGallery Their website isn't working - do you know how I can get in touch with the company? Many thanks Barry

Hi, I just saw on their social media pages that they’ve fixed the website problem, looks like it’s up and running again. They probably won’t mind if you contact them directly on social media

@@HeatherGoldieGallery Many thanks

Hi Bhim, I’m not sure what art stores are available in India, I haven’t lived there before, but you could join the linocut friends group on Facebook, I’m sure there are printmakers from India in the group who can advise on where they buy their supplies. Hope that helps.

Thankyou!

Thanks so much, I really appreciate it. That's a good question, I do let them dry fully between layers, but with water based Schmincke ink this can be quick. Each layer can be touch dry within 15 minutes, but I personally leave 24 hours between layers to make sure it's fully dry, and I sometimes add mediums like extenders in that slow ink drying times when I'm using the ink on the mixing board, so that can take a bit longer. When I use Caligo Safewash, depending on how thin the layer is, for me it normally takes 24-48 hours to dry per layer, sometimes longer when it's colder. Hope that helps!

@@HeatherGoldieGallery yes that a big help thank you 🙏 just about to start my first reduction print. Just waiting for paper to be delivered, also will be using the schmincke.

@@studio.spirit That's exciting, reduction prints are so fun to make, I'm sure it will be fabulous!

Heya, the vinyl I’m using in this video is about 3mm thick, all the different surface blocks shown at the start are 2-3mm, its usually the thick blue and pink speedy carve blocks for stamps that are 5-6mm. Over the past year I’ve bought all mine online from art suppliers. Depends which country you’re ordering from but searching ‘Japanese relief vinyl’ should bring it up, hope that helps!

They are definitely my favourite tools 😊

Thanks 😊 I’m based in the UK and our online art suppliers sell them, if you do an online search with the name ‘Japanese relief printmaking vinyl’ it should come straight up, you can find good deals sometimes too. If you’re based in another country try joining Linocut Friends group on Facebook as lots of printmakers in other countries share suppliers details too