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Brilliant. Excellent for those of us working on old motorcycles.

Brings back memories of working in treatments dept at British hovercraft corporation , cadmium plating, copper plating, and anodising. Working on hovercraft, and helicopter parts. Good video, well explained 😊

thanks very good sean ireland

Sorry but they look exactly the same before / after to me..

What happens if you use higher voltage (12V is eazier to come by from a car battery)? Or will you get a Beirut type of event?

What would the voltage/current requirements be for 3 or 4 times the amount of solution for increased capacity? How is that scaled if that’s an applicable question? I imagine that an increase in the mass of the anodes would be necessary? Apologies for the newbie questions

Wow ! This was great man, i've seen a lot of guys doing it with much more elaborate set ups with big power supplies and all, but no one ever really explains what voltage is required or what the actual solution is made of. I'm going to bookmark this, thanks for sharing mate, have a great day. Ray from Canada.

You have the two zinc plates shorted together with copper wire. If you connect the negative as at 1:32 you will have a dead short across your batteries.

Super cool Steve, love the simplicity, thanks for sharing! It is difficult to appreciate the finish on camera (at least for my eyes) but I'm willing to trust you.

Do you by any chance know how to achieve that yellowish zinc plated look? Either way, this also looks like it will be a good amount of protection, but doesn't look as shiny

it just need V or it needs A also? 2x D batteries = 3V and if I adjust my charger to 3V will it run without problems?

Good to have you back! Interesting stuff as always. What’s the constant rattling in the background though? That was a tiny bit distracting. Looking forward to the next video!

Worth checking out pusche parts in Germany if you haven't already. I replaced all the ball joints on rear of my E31 and unfortunately like v12 throttle guy says the translucent boots on the lemforder ones have already started disintegrating within 2 years and zero mileage :(

Came across your channel a year or two ago. Enjoyed the videos but did not watch all of them through. Have come across your channel again and am getting a lot out of it. Any BMW video now is going to be compared to M539, and it is hard to match his production quality. I am liking the pace and structure of your videos though. They are fun to watch, and I like the 'hanging out in the garage' feel of them. Good like with the E31.

2nd watching….beyond Excellent!

Hi. What coarseness of scotch wool did you use? And did you change scotch wool and felt to every cylinder? Thank you very much for your reply

Great to catch up on your videos Steve - looks like you’ve had a real drama with the engine! Watched this one about the rear subframe with interest as its a project i’d like to tackle on my 840 someday. Reassured to see the components come good after blasting and people like Ed and Wolfe keep our cars alive with their products. Doesnt feel like such a daunting prospect now when i do finally get there. Hope you feel more confident now about taking on the bodywork! Picking my car up from storage next week hopefully to enjoy for the summer

Great video, thanks for your continued updates!

Haven't seen any powder coating that didn't flake off over time..

I'm liking the more frequent updates! Keep going!

there is a 132mm Long Pin 12mm OD for 88mm L, and 8mm OD the remainig 32mm length. That should have come with your timing kit, it goes through the Upper Sump housing and into only one of the holes in the Flex plate Starter ring gear disc which can be installed temporarily, Picture of the pin on fleabay FYI. used the old gasket to space the upper sump out for checking then put the new gasket during final assembly after fitting lower outter timing cover the pin locks the crank

How do you know the orientation and the place of each piece you took out and what does each cable does in the engine bay and in the interior, bcuz am trying to be a lil mechanic also if you know how to get the offical repair manual and how to stuff like taking the engine out , arain thank you and god bless you ❤

Huge fan really good keep it up bro 🎉❤

Your channel, and "another BMW channel" are without doubt my favourite viewing of all time. I'm not a BMW car builder, I would on BMW bikes, specfically the K series. Keep going with your quest for perfection, we all know you're going to get there. We'll be along with you on your journey. Please don't give up Steve.

This is not the correct way to fix the issue

Nice car ,you've got there geezer. That's a nice thorough restoration. You're really giving it the tlc it's needed for sometime now. You can really see the transformation and what a contrast😊 Nice one👍

Small Claims Court send them a letter 1st telling them that you will take them to court within 14 days... Little lesson before taking a head to get it skimmed make measurements with pictures beforehand.. measuring the casting to a known point at 4 points from the deck...

A good solution to a mess not of your creation. Good thing you spotted it. I hope all goes well. Thanks for the cool videos. I'd love to see the car some time. My inlaws are in Navan so I'm in your general area at times. Keep going and I loom forward to the next update.

Small claims court be an option?

Doesn’t take any rod bearings?!!

Jezus.. Just ran across your video. Rather than creating a small weight imbalance with the pistons shaved to different conditions, and different quench patterns, it would seem to be better to find yet another machine shop - somehow insure the work/block, and have them simply mill both banks flat again enough to use a thick custom copper head gasket in your defined thickness. (Granted + ss o-ringing the cylinder). Custom copper (reusable) head gaskets should be reasonably easy to source as long as a maker can have a DFX file of the OE gasket. Yes, you don't use the OE MLS gasket anymore but at this point..... it would seem like an option. Then IDK if it's worth using the courts to make the other machine shops pay for what they fudged up.

Takk!

Hi Steve, good to see you again. Real bummer about the block, it's hard to find people you can trust to do a proper job nowadays. even Streten at M539 has fallen foul of bad machining. I know it's probably not your style, but I think I might have mentioned to the machine shop in question that letting 8K+ people know not to take their engine parts there may have at least warranted a reply. I am thinking that the discrepancy amounts we are talking about are not enough to cause a mis-alignment problem with the inlet manifold, seeing as the heads will be slightly out of kilter. The pistons look better than original now with the new coatings, should turn out good in the end. I have completely re-built my rear subframe, you are right, there's a lot of work involved. I may be too late here, but when I did mine, 2 out of three of the "rose joint" bushings were available from Lemforder (they made the originals) at about 1/2 the price of BMW, and the third which is part of the top arm is now available exchange from Gerry Speechley at Phoenix Motorsport, again, cheaper than BMW but still very dear at £300 a side. He also does some nice re-enforcement plates for the rear shock mountings which have a common fault of metal fatigue cracks.

name of machine shop that did shenanigans work please?

Sorry to hear about all the issues you're having with the machining shops. I am really enjoying watching the progress you this project and can't wait to watch the work on the car body too. Forgive me for this, maybe, dumb question but won't the material removed from the pistons cause engine unbalance? Or is that so minor that the weight difference is negligible?

All of this just cause someone fed up the messurment and basicly ruined the block

Make sure your valves don't hit the pistons on number 5 and 6, because you removed 0.6mm from the top of the piston, not from the valve relief that was machined in the piston. The valve relief is 0.6 mm closer to the valve!

Interesting solution to a horrible problem. Hope it works out!

That's why you never machine engine parts if they are not fucked. For example if the block has an excessive amount of warp or twist beyond the accepted OE spec, you machine it because it's already fucked. If the heads are warped beyond accepted values you machine them because they are already fucked There is absolutely no gain in machining parts that are "good enough" I have a 3.2 VR6 Turbo engine that spits about 630HP which was rebuilt twice (I cracked some pistons because of high boost), and I have 30K km with it since the last rebuild. engine and head were never machined. I feel your pain :(

That's a shame about the issues you're having with these machining shops. I have no doubt that the engine will run like a dream once you're done with it. Looking forward to seeing it running!

This car will be finished in 46 years. Unfortunately I won't be here, but I appreciate what you're doing.

Compressor code?

Hi Steve - where do you source parts from - Im about to embark an a similar journey - TIA - Ben

Awesome job - just acquired a 91 manual with 106k miles which is a bit raggedy n 97 auto in pristine condition with 68k miles - still to decide what to do when I receive them - swap gearboxes! Anyhoo - hat parts sites did you use for your project? Tah much

Nice video. I'm a little pissed. Years ago the lenses were not available. I decided to put a little paint on moms old 745 and I polished the originals. Two days, seriously 2 days. They came out perfect and I shot them with clear poly but man I wished those lenses were available back then. KK

I’ve got the same color, mine is a 1991 with 72,000 miles! Breaks need to be redone along with a problem with battery drainage and a coolant leak! I haven’t drove it in 7 years!

Awesome vid. Cant wait to rip the v12 out of my e38

Thank you. I have a 2006 750Li and your video was spectacular. One of the best instructional videos I have seen. Will be tackling this job in the next few months. Thanks from Canada!

Hey Steve, thank you so much for your effort making this video. I'm currently rebuilding my M73 (750i from 1999). And I also did the honing like you do in the video, have also used the same laping compound. BUT: my cylinder walls do NOT turn out as dull as they should be / like they were before from factory. I still can see the cross hatching clearly. This should not be the case. I did some investigation and found out that its important to meassure the surface roughness of the cylinder walls afterwards etching. In case it is too thin (too less etching) the walls would be too soft so the pistons will literally scuff them up and completely destroy the block. I will do another round of laping but I'm concerned about the the real roughness of the walls.. Have you meassured your walls ?

Good job but unnecessary