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Make the numbers lower on this graph. Try subtracting 5 from every number and see if that helps. th-cam.com/video/F2APprj4jeU/w-d-xo.html; You'll have to also change the numbers in the 2D table to match.

Huh, that's also a good idea. It just needs something flexible in there. A thin strip of foam weatherstripping also works.

Not sure if the Gen 3 block is different.

I'd get a block of wood and put it behind the pinch weld at the front of the rocker and jack up under the rear toque box (where the control arm attaches to the chassis). Use two jacks. The easiest method is get jacking rails installed!

Look straight to me 😵‍💫

Cover is wet.

Both good questions. I would check with L and M engines. I don’t know how much to budget. I think it varies a lot based on your goals.

Great question. An S197 is not that hard. Use engine lift plates and a load leveler. You need to be able to adjust the angle of the engine as you pull it. I did it myself without any help.

@@Mustang-Geek I have a 2011 GT and I have borrowed a leveler to try to get it out myself, but I’ve been a little worried about taking apart more than necessary to pull the engine and leave the transmission

@@DreFromThe6ix I can't remember if I removed the transmission first. Remove the radiator and disconnect the AC compressor from the engine and lay it aside. You won't need to disturb the lines. Just remove the stretchy belt and the compressor.

@@Mustang-Geek So far ground straps have been the only item people don’t think to disconnect. I think I found a guide online but I may have to go with the trial and error method lol

@@DreFromThe6ix Just take your time and use common sense.

@@BADAZZ93STANG Thanks! Please like, subscribe, and share!

All ready subbed!!!

Thanks! Please like, subscribe, and share this video!

Good question. No, nothing goes to the manual trans harness. The terminator X is oblivious to the transmission.

Indeed! They're out there!

I agree. I prefer the higher-pitched hollow sound of the Original 40!

Glad it worked! Please like, subscribe, and share this video on social media to spread the word! Too many people struggle with this.

You never heard of it because it's a new product. It's 100% made in the USA.

@@Mustang-Geek lol

Get you one! www.wesduenkel.com/store/mustang-carpet-saver-bracket-kit

Any sound clips?

@@Mustang-Geek tons on YT.

@@YUT.308 I’m talking about on S550 mustangs.

H&R Street Performance: kennybrown.com/collections/s197-handling/products/street-performance-coil-over-kit-2005-2014-mustang

@@Mustang-Geek will these fit onto a v6 ? thank you.

@@xXstevieOo I believe so. Check the H&R website for application information.

@@nathanlopez5935 Not very many unmolested examples left!

Good question. I haven't built one, but you should check a repair manual for that procedure. I suspect it is very similar, but the fastener torque specs are likely different, etc.

@WesDuenkel I'm thinking the same, saw some photos and the markings looked identical. I want to assume the procedure, like clocking the crank to 9 o clock, then 12 may be the same. Pretty cool too see nevertheless

Wow. Mustang II? I'd try Napa.

Coyotes don't have the same rear main seal issues like earlier small blocks.

Great! Glad it helps. Please like, subscribe, and share this video!

The actuators bolt on the exhaust, like you mentioned. Some people still get codes over time, so the AFM simulators may be a good idea regardless.

No. Exhuast modifications after the catalytic converters should not trigger any codes.

@@mountedpatrolman my man!

Glad it was a success!!! Please like, subscribe, and spread the word!

You're not wrong.

Installation and tuning is the same.

My pleasure! Please like, subscribe, share this video, and check out my other videos on this channel!

Is the Wideband showing lean? What is it showing? You may have the decal fuel cutoff enabled.

@Mustang-Geek on throttle depending on load, it's anywhere between 12.5-14.7. Once I get off the throttle to coast it goes up to 18:1. Single turbo 5.3, first drive with terminator x today. I'm not familiar with what you are mentioning

@@laned8418 Google Holley Decel Fuel Cutoff.

@@laned8418 Also, keep in mind a RICH misfire will show "lean" because there's lots of oxygen (but also unburned fuel) in the exhaust.

If the runner control isn't working, it may trigger a code. Regardless, there should be sensors that tell the PCM if the runners are open or closed so that runs correctly.

I don't recall. Maybe 16 gauge? But that's an educated guess.

@@Mustang-Geek kk thank u, because I’m short on wire n need more. I can’t find anything about the wire size either so I’m not sure what to do

Good question. It would grind.

@@Mustang-Geek thanks for response

@@jake-j1q Hey, what's the use of asking a question if nobody ever answers it, right? This channel is FOR Mustang Geeks BY a Mustang Geek!

These do not have warmers, but my understanding is they could be added. They're not a priority to me, but maybe I should look into that... hmmm...

Sorry, I don't understand your question.

It's close, right?

I did not use any timing locks. The camshafts themselves are in a "neutral position" and the crank is NOT at TDC.

Super dziękuję pomogłeś mi bo nie mogłem znajsc blokad rozrządu.😊a z jaką siłą dokrecales śruby głowicy ?

@@waldekpucinski9945 I don't remember. You should always check with the fastener manufacturer for their recommendation.

If you mean valve springs, then yes...we did.

Really? You are saying the passenger side carpet and mats on your Mustang have a hook and rivet?

@@Mustang-Geek no my drivers side mat has two

@@dbsimms63 Oh! Huh. What year Mustang?

@@Mustang-Geek 2004 SVT Cobra. The carpet was replaced and I asked them to put in another one since the mat had two anchor holes

@@dbsimms63 Ahhh, that makes sense now. You might be able to use another one with a hole drilled in a different location for the other one. It's worth a shot!

Biased :)

Thanks! I try and keep the B.S. level low on these videos!

@@PatHand-og9yd not sure about that.

No, I didn't have any increased road noise, but the solid hub clutch certainly made the transmission noisy in 3rd and 4th gear. I didn't measure runout on the bell housing, though that would've been a good idea.

It's not supposed to trip check engine lights, but there are also modules that help with that, if I recall. I don't think it affects the warranty, but you should check with Hooker.

If your cable is adjustable (down by the fork) AND/OR you have a firewall adjuster, adjust the clutch cable length (longer) or screw the fire wall adjuster IN until there is slack in the cable. Then to back on the adjustment(s) until there is no slack in the cable. Check for proper clutch release: (1) Select Neutral and depress the clutch. (2) Start the engine. (3) Select Reverse. If the transmission grinds going into Reverse, the clutch is not releasing enough, and you need to tighten up the cable.

@Mustang-Geek thank you I will give it a try

@@jessicascism891 You got this! Let me know how it goes.

@@Mustang-Geekdoes the stock cable have any adjustment at all? My throw out bearing (I think) makes a noise whenever my pedal is depressed, it’s a brand new ford performance throw out bearing, I really don’t want to have to take out my whole transmission again. I have long tubes lol

@@luisuribe5432 Pull up on the pedal. If it has a factory quadrant, it will self-adjust.