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Super! Glad to have you on board. Let me know if you have any specific questions or recommendations!

Hi and thanks for the comment, but I'm not sure I understand. Hubitat is a home automation platform. I looked at it briefly years ago when I was selecting my own home automation system. It appears to me that a simple HTTP REST API for sensors/devices does not exist on Hubitat. Are you saying it is easier to add sensors to Hubitat? Could you say more? Thanks!

Agreed. My goal is to make it super-simple to setup and maintain common sensors w as little hassle as possible. Thanks for the comment!

Thanks for the great comment! To be clear you want POE not just for power delivery but also for data transmission right? It’s the data interface that requires the most work. Perhaps if there is demand I can do a mark II version…

Appreciate the ❤️. I hope you find it useful. Thx

I was looking for something that was simple and cheap for home use. I really couldn’t find anything - but honestly I was intrigued about the possibility of making one board that I could use for the most common sensors people might want. That’s why I decided to design SensorNode. You are correct it can only be configured to provide 2 external and the 2 I2C sensors at once. But I like that I can use the same board and software image all over my house in many different ways. My motion sensors, contact sensors, and temp sensors are all SensorNodes. No integrations with Home Assistant, very simple, and very reliable! Thanks for the comment.

@@tnbtech262 That makes sense. Konnected is designed for the use case where you already have wired alarm sensors (doors, windows, motion, etc.), and all of the sensor wires terminate in a central location. In that use case, Konnected is clearly better. One board handles everything, so you only have one config, etc. But if you're installing the sensors new, in a built home, SensorNode seems like it makes that wiring job far easier. You can distribute the units around the house, instead of running long wiring runs. In that situation, a half-dozen or even a dozen SensorNodes are going to be cheaper than running the wiring to a central location. The labor alone for long wire runs is 80+% of the cost! Not sure I see the benefit of _not_ integrating with Home Assistant. I don't know what I'd use my sensors for, if not for use there. But it sounds like you _can_ integrate with HA, it's just not a requirement for a basic install.

I wasn't trying to say SensorNode does not integrate with HA, merely that it does without installing any new software into you Home Assistant installation. I'm only using the built-in HTTP Sensor interface which comes with every HA installation by default. To me, less 'plug-ins' installed into HA makes it more robust. Less to maintain. Less to brake. Like a toaster :)

Yes I plan to put the software up in a public GitHub repository after the Kickstarter.

Not sure. But maybe if there is enough interest. Thanks.

Yes similar but not the same. My design is way simpler (and thus less full-featured). I feel my design is easier to setup, configure, and use. You can also re-configure it on the fly without loading new software. It’s just a different approach. I’ve got them all over my house, doing different things, yet all running the same code. The stack is super-simple and therefore easier to maintain. Thanks.

ESPHome is not a complete solution. It is only the software portion. If you are asking me why I didn’t use ESPHome for the software, the answer is complicated. But to sum up, I wanted a single design and software image that could be reconfigured on the fly without loading custom code from a Home Assistant integration. ESPHome is great and offers many devices, but it requires an integration with Home Assistant to configure. It’s also very complicated which to me means more likely to need maintenance. My goal for SensorNode is to have one simple device I can use over and over without any changes to the code. They really are merely different approaches. Thanks for the comment.

Wow. Sorry to hear they didn’t fix it yet.

POE is not a bad option, but of course it requires a wired connection nearby. Not nearly as flexible. But something to think about! Thanks.

@@tnbtech262 honestly speaking, if you are going toward one device which fit all porpoise, this has a targeting costumer in the HA environment who want to simplify its purchases and maintenance of the automation system, which are the advanced users. A lot of people don't like to get too advanced, because of the overwhelming learning curve which never end due to unreliability of devices and HA constantly evolving. The advanced users of home automations are normally also advanced in networking infrastructure employing reliable networks systems, mostly wired and POE, because they CAN'T loose the network if they loose power. The next level of upgrade will be the capability to DON'T loose your sensors if you loose your power. That's why the way to go is POE. I would gladly use one of your "box" in each of my home automated environment (rooms or areas), as long as can be powered by POE and gives me dedicated access to/for BLE, Zigbee, Wifi, Presence detection, Sensors capability so I won't bother in looking for different ways to connect different arrangements according to different environments; gives me flexibility in managing stuff by area as it would work like a mini hub (...but more flexible) and I only have to remember and maintain a single type of equipment and firmware.

@@tnbtech262 honestly speaking this type of "one fit for all" shall be a tool for both random users and professional users if you want success in the product. random users would choose it so that they don't need to bother about selection, but professional users will choose it for repeatability and scalability. Flexibility is the key in this sort of choices. I give you one example... if you look at a product for zigbee to MQTT called SLZB-06 it gives an astonishing amount of scalability and flexibility which is a no brainer for the consumer (despite you are going to use few of them). For example two ways to power it up is a simple way to reach all needs: one from the mains ranging 110/240 VAC and one from POE++ protocol which can tap 48 VDC and you can step it down on the PCB to use it for powering up various elements. Double power protection and redundancy can also be achieved. If we like to discuss advanced users, you shall consider the willing of scalability and simplify maintenance by having a device in each environment (area or room) where things connect as a minihub with limited wires lengths. Normally advanced HA users also employ advance networking infrastructures having reliable wired connections to provide POE almost everywhere because they CAN'T loose network when main power is lost. The next need for this advanced users is to ALSO ALLOW them not to loose their sensors, monitoring, DIY automations when the main power is lost and the only way is to provide a POE minihub in each environment so they are not dependent from secondary UPS scattered all over the place to sustain reliability of all different automations branches (presence/alarms/temperature/power monitoring... you name it) during that time when the power is lost. I personally won't mind to have one of your "box" in each of my automation environment (area or room according of where I can reach with the sensors wiring) as long as I can power it up through POE, provide me all type of connectivity I may need in that area BLE/IR/RF/WiFi/Zigbee, gives me the possibility to connect at least one type of each sensors family presence detection, temperature, humidity, doors contacts, water, vibration (etc...) with the possibility of add-on if necessary, like expansions for AI voice assistant, music assistant, speaker and microphone, LED strips controllers... the possibility are unlimited and driven by imagination only. Multiple dry-contacts availability which could be used at all available power voltages as mentioned above (110/220/48 and downward). Despite "one fit all" is most unlikely to exist, I think you have a good idea, but need to be refined to reach the most use cases scenarios where it become a "must have" product (like the SLZB-06) instead of another peace of junk which are now flooding the market

@@tnbtech262 @andreamessina6439 The barrel plug can also be PoE powered using an adapter. What voltage does it take in and what barrel plug does it use?

Barrel plug is a std 5.5/2.5 center positive type. You need to input a DC voltage between 7.5-24 volts. Thanks.

Yes it uses the very simple Home Assistant HTTP Sensor API. You can see for yourself here: www.home-assistant.io/integrations/http/

So glad it helped you out. Thanks for the comment!

Understood. Hopefully they fixed this issue in later cameras.

Thanks. Glad it helped!

Thanks!

I think so

Thanks for the comment!

Glad you found it useful!

I think their latest cameras are pretty good. What do you think of them?

Hi - sorry I didn't see this comment for a long time. Not completely sure what you are needing, but if you go into the menu on your camera, and select the 'star tab' (last tab on the right), you should see 'My Dial Settings' on page 1. You can change any setting you want there for MyDial. If you want to DELETE the setting, then go to the last page of the 'star tab' (page 6 on my camera) and select DELETE ITEM. Then you can select any item in your 'My Menu' Setting tab (the star tab) to be deleted. I would advise caution here, cause I'm not sure how you get that item back. Good luck.

Not sure what you mean, but I think a smaller camera is likely to be taken out and unless you are a pro, the real choice now is between your phone's camera and a small, capable camera. Thanks for the comment.

@@tnbtech262 I meant that I didn't care about the cost of the Camera or lens, but I find the A7 + 24-70/2.8 combo too big. The 20-70/4 FF is actually about the same size as 16-55/2.8 APS-C, but I'll actually prefer something like a 25-50/2.8 on a full frame. The APS-C A6000-series with the 16-55 is actually not that small and if I am going to lug something that is not a phone, I'll want a FF with compact but fast lens. I am willing to give up zoom range.

Ok yeah I get it and agree. Years ago, the 16-55 was the only game in town. But I really prefer something smaller and more manageable. I would consider the A7c at this point over apsc cause it’s not much bigger and then you have the option to use apsc or ff glass. If you want something smaller, I would honestly consider the RX100.

@@tnbtech262 There is the Tamron 20-40/2.8 and it's pretty cheap ($600). But as I said, I'll prefer a 25-50 because I like the 50mm angle and 25mm is enough for me for most wide street shots. Too bad nobody makes one at any price. The RX100 is meh... I have the 1st gen. The 1" sensor is not any better than a new phone sensor (even though it is bigger).

Agree a 25-50 might be nice. Regarding RX cameras, I think the newest ones ( I too have a mark I ) have the potential to take much better photos than even the newest iPhone ( I have the 13 pro and am not impressed w the camera). The combination of a bigger sensor, much better lens ( the most important part), and more fine controls make it better for someone who knows photography. Sony has a great opportunity to combine this excellent platform with “AI” features that could blow away any phone camera. But, alas, they probably won’t. 😀

I'm glad I could help you out. I would personally prefer more dials, but if you don't have them, this is the next best thing. Thanks for the comment.

Glad I could help. Thanks.

Yeah it's a great lens, but honestly now there are many more options than when this lens came out, so check out your options!

Glad you like it!

Glad I could help

Agreed. Thanks for the comment.

As far as I know, there has been no change to this behavior for Fuji cameras. As long as you use Aperture Priority, it works fine. But not for SP.

Thanks Tom. Hope you are well.

You are most welcome. Thanks for watching.

Very glad it was helpful to you. Thanks for watching.

Glad you found the video useful. Thanks.

Thanks!

Thanks glad you found it useful.

In gen I agree, but honestly I feel Sony could put another control dial in the front - they just don't want to. It's product differentiation, not technical necessity, that makes manufacturer's purposely cripple some products. They need them to be different, otherwise all cars would have 12 cupholders!

They are prob both very good. I have not tried the Tamron, but if it were available when I was looking, I prob would have gone with it. It’s almost half the price of the Sony. And it has VC. Sony is probably a little sharper, but is the small difference (along w button,switch,etc. ) worth it?

Yes agree w your reasons and priority. I too think the price is not worth it, which is why I went with the 6400, which at the time was $700 less.

@@tnbtech262 The A6400 is a good camera.. I bought one used (brand new condition) for about 600 dollars. Quite a few welcomed upgrades compared to the A6000 I had previously. The most significant of those, for myself, is the better autofocus accuracy (even more so in lower light situations)

Agree completely.

Hi - If you are referring to the excellent Sigma 16mm f/1.4 all by itself, then no. The reason someone would opt for the Sony 16-55 Zoom would be that they don't want to carry around a bunch of primes, and also they want more flexibility. But this convenience and flexibility comes at a cost, namely the high price (although 3-4 excellent primes will prob. cost the same or more) as well as a reduced max aperture. But if all you need is 16mm, then the Sigma is a super choice. Thanks.

@@tnbtech262 Hi, Yes the same. I would like to have a sharpest lens for which cover my most need like landscape portrait n semi zoom. So i thought to buy 16-55. Your comment makes sense to me. Is that a good idea to use 16-55 during day and 16mm on night?

Well 16mm 1.4 gets you another 2 stops of light. So think of it like this: You could use the 16mm 1.4 at ISO 400, or the zoom 2.8 at ISO 1600. So yes big difference there. Also I must note that now that the Tamron 17-70 2.8 is available you should consider that one as well. I hear it's not quite as sharp as the Sony zoom, but it's almost $500 less! PLUS it has VR/OSS! Good luck.

Thanks for watching

Glad I could help!

I'm not a major youtuber - that's why I don't rank higher :) and that's ok... I think the apsc 50mm1.8 gets a lot of bad press cause build quality ain't all that great - but my copy is pretty damn good for the price. I don't think there is a better 50mm out there for sony apsc - I've heard good things about the Sigma 56mm however so that is worth looking at as well. Thanks.

That's why it's great to have so many choices now! Thanks for the comment!

Very cool. What glass are u using??

@@tnbtech262 all Minolta: Rokkor - 50mm f1.2, 85mm f2.8 Varisoft, & 200mm f4, a Kiron 28mm f2, and most importantly a Vivitar Close-Focusing 90mm f2.5. The others probably aren’t worth mentioning!

Wow - that's very interesting. Thanks for sharing. How do you like the handling of the A7c?

@@tnbtech262 the custom buttons are definitely usable for my thumb, but my index finger will take some time to learn to reach back for the ‘record’ button as a zoom magnifier. The zoom magnifier also doesn’t reset when i half-press the shutter, I’ll have to see if I can toggle that. The viewfinder is much nicer than the a6000 that I upgraded from but I may 3D print an eyecup for stability. The grip is shallow for the weight so I purchased a Peak Design strap and now my fingers can relax. I wish I could send compressed raw wirelessly to my phone but that’s probably a rare use-case. I like shooting with the screen hidden and always end up leaving the camera on, but thankfully it goes into standby. Overall this camera makes compromises in all these small ways but I would say that I’m much more impressed than I thought I would be. I think it definitely makes a solid argument for upgrading from aps-c and the majority of complaints will come from people wanting an a7IV with a full touchscreen and the new menu system.

Thanks. Great feedback.

Glad you liked it. Thx

Glad it was helpful! Thanks.

Yeah I always try to put something on my front element, especially on my expensive glass. Typically I only use a "UV Haze" filter, which doesn't limit much in the visible spectrum of light. I doubt anyone could tell a difference (unless it's dirty :) ).

Glad it was helpful!

Yes agree you could do that, but really you don't need a FF camera to get great shots if all you want to do is point and shoot. Seems like an expensive way to take snapshots. :)

@@tnbtech262 Not really, user base has shifted. Many clients and business owners shoot their own B-Roll, Photos. They are happy with their iPhones, I am not. I usually suggest the a6xxx series, but those struggle in lowlight if you don't what you are doing. Besides, the whole lens conversion thing is a headache. Surprisingly enough that a7c with the kit lens its perfect for that. It's not just a photographers world anymore

Agree if you are doing client work, especially video, Sony cameras are great. Thanks.