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D Porter Contracting
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 1 ก.ค. 2015
How to lime point brickwork fireplace Part 3 Multifuel stove installation
The fireplace is now complete so it is time to fit the liner and Multifuel stove.
We show how your HETAS approved engineer will fit your stove.
We show how your HETAS approved engineer will fit your stove.
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How to lime point brickwork fireplace Part 2
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In this vid we apply the mortar and scrape off the green hard mortar from Friday's application.
How to lime point brickwork fireplace Part 1
มุมมอง 2.7K4 หลายเดือนก่อน
Here we show how to lime point a traditional brickwork fireplace. Chasing out of joints Acid washing of existing brickwork
Scottish Bothy restoration part 3 Stove installation
มุมมอง 8704 หลายเดือนก่อน
Restoration of a 19th century bothy on the Isle of Mull. In this episode we: Renovate the 50 year old stove. Fit the flue liner Install the stove to HETAS specifications
Scottish Bothy restoration part 2 Gable Collapse!
มุมมอง 1K4 หลายเดือนก่อน
Restoration of a 19th century bothy on the Isle of Mull. In this episode we: Roof the sarking boards with box profile sheets Install ridges and barge boards Rake out lime pointing Rebuild the gable after it collapsed!
Scottish Bothy restoration part 1
มุมมอง 1.5K4 หลายเดือนก่อน
Restoration of a 19th century bothy on the Isle of Mull. In this episode we: Introduce the project. Strip the earthen roof. Repair/brace the roof trusses. Rotten sarking boards are replaced. Break out lime mortar Eaves gaps are walled up. MY SINCERE APOLOGIES FOR THE SHODDY SOUND! A MICROPHONE HAS NOW BEEN INVESTED IN..
Time lapse of Monterey Cyprus removal Kilfinichen Estate
มุมมอง 2926 หลายเดือนก่อน
Three Cyprus trees 2x Leyland Cyprus and a Monterey Cyprus tree growing precariously over a dwelling are removed. Time lapse taken of the Monterey Cyprus.
120' Norway Spruce removal with time lapse
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This Norway spruce was 140 years old standing tall over the shores of Tiroran on the Isle of Mull. It was climbed and dismantled with roped rigging to avoid damage to property and infrastructure below. The trunk was felled out, narrowly missing the overhead power line on the other side of the road by a bum clenchingly close 6'.
Pointing in lime to fix a damp cottage part 2 Application and finishing
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Lime pointing to rectify damp issues on 200 year old cottage.
Pointing in lime to fix a damp cottage part 1 breaking out and backpointing
มุมมอง 4.2K9 หลายเดือนก่อน
Lime pointing to rectify damp issues on 200 year old cottage.
Lime pointed fireplace and multifuel stove installation
มุมมอง 2.2Kปีที่แล้ว
Lime pointed fireplace and multifuel stove installation
Scotland Lime Pointing Part 2 (Application and finishing of applied mortar)
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Application and finishing of applied mortar.
Scotland Lime Pointing Part 1 (Breaking out and mortar constituents)
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Breaking out and mortar constituents.
260 year old ash felling.
มุมมอง 307ปีที่แล้ว
This 260 year old ash tree and it's 240 year old brethren were both climbed, to fix a pulling line anchor point. both trees were felled with step cuts. The tractor then pulls the tree over slowly and safely. Another victim of Ash Dieback disease.💀 This tree was void of heartwood, it was in such a state of fungal decay.
Dry stone retaining wall construction Pt. 2
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Dry stone retaining wall construction Pt. 2
Dry stone retaining wall construction Pt.1
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Dry stone retaining wall construction Pt.1
Milling of 350 year old oak tree on Isle of Mull. Time lapse of works.
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Milling of 350 year old oak tree on Isle of Mull. Time lapse of works.
350 year old oak tree removal on Isle of Mull. Time lapse.
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350 year old oak tree removal on Isle of Mull. Time lapse.
How to lime point a 300 year old property Pt 2 (Application)
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How to lime point a 300 year old property Pt 2 (Application)
How to lime point a 300 year old property Pt 1 (backpointing)
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How to lime point a 300 year old property Pt 1 (backpointing)
How to repoint a gable wall (3)Finishing of mortar.
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How to repoint a gable wall (3)Finishing of mortar.
How to repoint a gable wall (2)Application of mortar and ventilation of wall cavity.
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How to repoint a gable wall (2)Application of mortar and ventilation of wall cavity.
How to repoint a gable wall (1)Breaking out and preperation of joints.
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How to repoint a gable wall (1)Breaking out and preperation of joints.
How to slab timber with an Alaskan mill
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How to slab timber with an Alaskan mill
Isle of Mull tree works Carsaig (part 2)
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Isle of Mull tree works Carsaig (part 2)
Isle of Mull tree works Carsaig (part 4)
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Isle of Mull tree works Carsaig (part 4)
You are amazing, a pleasure to hear your knowledge and watch your skilled work. I am going to learn.on a 15c.house😮
Very educational. Only bit I don’t get is why does it only carbonate to about 25mm. What happens when a wall is built from scratch. Does that mean that the mortar doesn’t carbonate the full depth of the bed?
Good question. When constructional lime mortar is used, it is usually of a lime putty constituent. Like putty is more breathable than an NHL lime due to the absence of argillaceous clays. You would normally aim to reduce the depth of your beds to less than 25mm. If you take down or work on a well built random stone structure then you will observe the use of packers in between the joints whereas in a cementitious mortar, the joints are just gobbed up.
Our 200yo stone cottage has big voids in its stonework on front. There is no damp and it keeps water out ok, stone in great condition, is it worth pointing it? Great videos by the way dude!
Cheers @skygoneblack6216 I'd be tempted to point it up if there are voids in the stonework as those voids are areas that could leach warmth from your property. If the water is gaining entry to the cavity or rubble infill then dampness could be lingering in the dark recesses. Plus, a lime pointed wall will show off the beauty of the original stonework too!
@@dportercontracting9974 hey thanks dude, may drop you a PM if that ok? Much appreciated
Excellent and informative like all your videos. It was probably the only time when a face mask was useful in 2020😄
Ha I guffawed at that quip there @Westmoreland348 🤣
Thanks, I learnt a lot from your videos, really appreciate them!!
That's probably as many times as I can watch the video in a bid to put off back pointing a section of my house! Super informative thanks, and only now do I dare even attempt this!
Great videos mate well explained, I’m recently looking at offering lime pointing to my customers so this has helped me out a lot 👍🏼
Great video. Thanks so much. Question from me. I am planning to use some small sandstones as part of a repointing project. Do I need to wash/clean them first and what is the best way to do this? All the best...
Cheers @AspectRampage. If you are to use stones from round about site, you would be best to ensure that there is no soil on them first. Soil will create air pockets between the mortar and stone as it contracts which could blow the mortar if the soil or entrained moisture freezes.
Hi pal after a nice white lime mortar for repointing a wall i have been told that swapping half of my grit sand in the mix with stonedust will work have you ever tried it and would you recommend it cheers
Just done a job where I added more fine granite dust (literally, just the dust) to the mix (2:1:1 grit sand: Gdust: NHL 3.5) and it cured to a beautiful white colour, yet still showed the grey flecks of the granite under close inspection. I'm hoping to upload the vid in the next few weeks.. I'd definitely repeat the mix again for the aesthetics of the finished article.
@@dportercontracting9974 cheers pal I'll get some granite dust and whip a small batch up thanks for the advice
Dig the kilt Danny Thanks for your reply earlier Nick
Hi Danny Nick here in Perth Western Australia I do the same work as yourself. Although the oldest buildings I work on are dated around the 1860’s Such as the town as York . Yep York WA I use a lot of NHL 3.5 On average I charge around $240 a square meter How do you charge for your jobs? Saying like your time , accessibility . I have to consider such implications on nearly every job Especially heritage work.
Hi Nick, glad to hear you are looking after the heritage properties in Oz! I'm guessing that sun shrinkage with your lime mortar will be a bigger issue for you than dealing with existing damp problems in dwellings? I charge a standard square meter price for application, plus materials, plus a standard hourly rate for breaking out. I've found that is the best way for me to cover my back on jobs.
Used to have that hand hawk, got a hod now. Think I’ll get one again for next job in Queensbury, Bradford. Great vids pal.
Beautiful job. Thank you for sharing your experience with us. You’ve inspired us to have a go ourselves using all your tips of the trade. Thanks.
Thank you so much for your videos. You explain everything really well without jargon and without over complicating things. We’re at the beginning of embarking on a barn conversion project in Somerset and as we only have a modest budget, we’ll be doing as much of the work ourselves as we can. We are keen DIYers and have completed an extension on a previous property but the barn is another level. Your videos have inspired us to at least try to have a go ourselves using your tips and patience for each stage. I’ll try an area at the bottom of the back wall on the small barn first and see how it goes and learn from things before working on more visible sections. Thanks again.
Great video! Is the intention for this to be a public access bothy?
Thanks freckle1998. The bothy is on the pilgrims route to the holy island of Iona. There is no other shelter for the next 15 miles of coastline so if you contact the owners at the farm then I'm sure they won't have an issue with folk stopping in the bothy.
Hi Once you have completed the pointing, is there any easy way to remove lime stains? or would you re-apply the acid?
When you are tamping back the finished pointing, keep tamping and you will clean off the snots. If you have finished the works then brick acid and careful application with a small brush will be a good way to remove lime stains. Just be careful not to get any on your lime mortar or it will dissolve and degrade it dramatically.
A beautiful 200 year old cottage, great pointing, shame they have plastic windows!
You say you don't use chemical plasticisers. Have you use ever used hydrated lime powder as a plasticiser (1:1:6 or 1:2:9 mixes), and if so what are your thoughts?
I haven't used lime as a plasticiser. Is it effective?
@@dportercontracting9974 - In the days before chemical plasticisers the old school brickies used to use it as an additive in cement mortar to improve workability & durability. Being a DIYer I've only ever used cement mortar on small repairs, but I have a garage to repoint & the original mortar is not just cement & sand (where not eroded, it's formed a hard calcified outer skin over a slightly softer base).
"Deep fried mulled wine"🤣.
Great degree of detail! I hate to think how difficult it was to remove the old render & mortar without damaging the soft stone. And the use of weep vents in that way is v.unusual. Are they the standard ones used to drain cavity trays, or more like the porous tube idea but with holes in the sides to let the moisture enter?
Thanks for the comment @Benzknees. The laborious task of removing the render and mortar without winding up the neighbours is quite a mission! The weep vents are specific tubes for such a job. I guess you could use the standard prep vent ones but you would have to ensure that driving rain couldn't track up and through them upon installation 👍
how long do you wait (for the lime to cure) until you're happy to use the stove?
Great question! I usually advise to leave the finished mortar for at least a week before lighting the stove. A quicker cure, generated by the heat from the stove will cause your mortar to shrink and crack if lit sooner.
Hi, the bit where you scratch back the back pointing, I have copied you on an internal wall around a fireplace. As its inside, I am spraying it with water. Should I still scrape back even though I don't appear to have any 'snots'? Also, is it important to do this the day after, or can I do it just before finish pointing? Great videos BTW.
Hi there. Whether inside or out, the backpointing should, in my opinion be scraped back. When it is scraped back, the fat is removed from the surface of the backpointing. This scraping off leaves a textured finish, ready to key to the finish pointing. You can leave the backpointing for a couple of days before finish pointing to get to that green hard set. The longer left the better to be honest.
Brilliant job! I am currently repointing my 1870 cottage standard brick construction and in the process of raking out I notice there’s cavities where the mortar should be, nearly half way into the 9” wall in the perps, should I rake in and fill up or just do the inch on top cheers
Cheers for the props matey! You'll find on old brickwork that the peeps can sometimes be a bit shy of mortar on the original construction. You'll get away with just doing a finish coat of lime mortar on the perps. There will be air behind the brickwork that can add to the carbonation process once the finish mortar is applied.
How do you decide how much old mortar to take out? or do you just take it all out?
Have a watch f the video and it will explain your question my friend.
What make and model kango are you using? Thanks
Used to use high end ones but now go for a BnQ McCulloch breaker. They come with a 12 month guarantee for £120. I make sure that they are busted within the 12 months and go and get a brand new one under the guarantee. Quids in!
Lol thanks. I'll do that then 😅
Very nice job, thanks for the explanations.
I make hot mix in my cement mixer . All the paint went off that mixer due to how hot it gets during slaking process . Mixer still works though. Great videos
I’m in the process of raking out the back of my terraced house, the only one in the entire street that hasn’t been cement rendered. Bought nhl 5 as it gets allot! Of rain on that side of the building, as per your recommendation. Watched a load of your videos, which are great by the way as this is my first attempt at line pointing so wish me luck.
This was perfect thank you. Ive got a very old stone house that requires pointing. Ive had a new roof and my builder was going to do it but he's an absolute spanner and simply would not listen when i told him it needed lime. It even got a bit heated so u told him id do it.
Keep them coming, any thoughts on working in Ireland? Would u consider it.
New videos should be up if the repoint later on this week. F Unfortunately, I've way too much work on at the moment to look to new horizons. Hopefully there are some stellar tradesmen that can work with lime and do buildings justice over the Irish sea.
Excellant video
Outstanding presentation and content. I’m a relative newcomer to lime mortar but I’ll never used concrete again if I can avoid it. Lime mortar has such character, especially when you add something special like decomposed granite to give color and texture to the finished product. Thanks from Australia!
was there any damp internally and if so, has it helped the internal damp all your work externally?
Hi, thanks for your comment. The leaky gutter on this dwelling caused damp ingress through the wall in the top bedroom. Since fixing the leak, the wall has dried out. This may be due to a combination of the gutter not leaking anymore and the lime pointing allowing moisture trapped in the stone skin to egress the property.
@dportercontracting9974 lots of stone built terrace houses here in Abergavenny. I'm a structural engineer and often do house surveys and find so many houses with cement pointing over the lime mortar. I've also been doing some Internet research and whereas many people say blithely that gypsum plaster doesn't allow a wall to breathe is simply not true. What is the killer is using modern emulsion paints.
Lime is water repellent same as I used on old German villa, also inside on the wall rendering as well as pointing, careful though lime, wapno, burns and will take your skin off to the bone
How long does lime putty mortar normally take to harden? We put it on two days ago, and it still feels a little squashy.
A putty based mortar will take longer this time of year while the temperatures are cooler. It could be anything upto a week or ten days before it gets to that green hard set. Bear in mind that a putty takes longer to cure than an NHL mortar too.
👍❤️
Why did you have to chop it down?😢
Because it was rotten in the middle and growing towards a 17th century stately home.
I live in Florida and would love something like that here!! Beautiful. ❤❤❤❤
I'll bet there are some earth mounds somewhere in Florida that the natives built that would love a renovation like this one.
Really enjoy your videos.
Is this machine too powerful for pointing preparation? Are you supposed to have a shy machine not to go too far? JCB 21-DH1300 SDS MAX Demolition Hammer 240V/1300W JCB Anti-Vibration 1300W Demolition Hammer Drill 21-DH1300 with SDS, the perfect tool for heavy-duty drilling and demolition work. This powerful electric hammer drill delivers an impressive 15J of impact force, making light work of brick, blockwork, asphalt, and concrete. Equipped with a Multi-position & Anti-vibration handle, this hammer drill ensures maximum safety and comfort during use, reducing the risk of injury and strain. The Anti-vibration side handle helps to absorb shock, reducing fatigue and increasing productivity Features: 15J Impact Force: Our JCB 21-DH1300 demolition hammer drill packs a punch with an impressive 15J of impact force, making it ideal for tackling tough materials like brick, blockwork, asphalt, and concrete with ease.
The breakers I use only put out 10J of force so the JCB one would be too powerful for raking out for what I need.
I had a feeling that might be true, thanks so much for letting me know, I owe you a drink for sure! Trouble is finding a breaker on a budget, wow they're a lot of dolla! Youwere right about the 'back end of March, looks like the 28th is 'go' day according to the 10 day forecast!@@dportercontracting9974
Do you think a 5 jewel breaker too weak? Part of the work aside from the exterior 30 year old cement removal is old plaster on a brick 'n' dust single brick thick inner wall. @@dportercontracting9974
howcome you're not concerned that the wall won't breathe by using cement to back point? great videos by the way
The constructional mortar wasn't full beds so moisture can find it's way out of the stonework in gaps and cracks between the substrate. I'm back up there next week to lime point the building so it'll be a functional, active wall when it's pointed up.
Are the clients understanding? Did they pay for a new hop up?
@@sgfelectrical734 The clients were very understanding about the collapse. It was for the better anyways as the gable would have needed taking down stone by stone to rebuild it. New videos of the repoint of the bothy should be up later on this week. Stay tuned!
Hello mate, enjoyed the video thank you. Would you recommend using an plasticiser when laying a brick? Got some hand made brick to lay 👍🏼 Thanks mate Matty
Cheers Matty! I would stay away from using any plasticiser in a lime mortar mix. It's simply a case of using more water in the mix to make it more malleable. Using a lime putty in your mortar, rather than a NHL will make a creamier mix that is more suitable for a constructional mortar. I've another video on how to mix lime putty that will explain all for you.
You're some boy Danny. Lucky people to have you on board. Top notch work. Very interesting project.
Thank you for a comprehensive explanation. I've got some decorative brickwork to do in an 1880 town house and to be honest to the property, I'm doing it in lime, the bricks are soft handmades so Portland cement would be way too strong even with a weak mix. So thank you. 😊
Love your content mate. Do you have an instagram page where we can follow your work on?
I'm afraid not my friend.
Great place to work and good on you !!
What sand do you use with the lime guess it’s courser than building sand ,, also are there different colours of sand you use
I always use a grit or river sand with my lime mixes. Anything finer than a grit sand will shrink and crack. You can mix building sand with grit but would always opt for a grit sand if available to you. There are various colours of sand available to you. Each area will have its own coloured sand depending on the quarry it came from.
Great job
All good and very informative ,I’m from down south and not sure we get material like your using ,yes we can get the lime but the aggregate we have building sand , washed grit which I supposed it bit like your course material but is grey and wouldn’t give the same finished colour, any advice please
Thanks for the kind words Joe. You can order decent river sands from companies such as limestuff.co.uk to make ideal mixes with. Nothing wrong with making your own course sand mix though with mixing the building sand with the washed grit. Each mix will have a different finish colour to it. I guess that's the joy of lime work, each job is unique and has it's own particular qualities down to the constituents of the mix used.
Would you say NHL 2 is suitable for internal re-pointing?
Definitely Jim. I would use a NHL2 for internal pointing, mixed to the same ratios.
@@dportercontracting9974 Great, thanks for the reply.
Looks more like an earth lime mortar than an ash lime mortar. Also, arent you pointing way too deep in one go? Isnt the rule no more than 20mm depth at a time.
Definitely an ash lime mortar matey. This is my full time job.. If you watch the video to the end you'll see what's going on here.
@@dportercontracting9974 fair point and my fault for not watching further on. I've got ash mortar on my house but it's rock solid, almost stone like. I also have earth mortar and it's pretty much soil. Interesting these old houses
@@hugh3sy7 They sure are interesting when you scratch the surface and see how the various tradesmen through the story of the structure performed their craft. Good luck with your renovation!👍