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With our housing, the wiper switch and headlight switch holes both have to be cut, we are doing some retooling on that part to make that process easier. Also, the factory dimming should also dim the Dakota unit, I don't remember it having a separate dimmer. As far as the power source, the constant came from the factory clock and the 12v switched came from the black/pink wire in the harness.

Yes, we have a cover for the 78-80 dashes as well, do you have a center speaker or the outer speakers?

It makes life a bit easier, but you don't have to remove the wheel.

@@DixieRestorationDepot understood, thanks!

On the left side of the cluster, once the faceplate is removed, there is a duct with 1 Philips screw in it, remove that duct and reach behind to the speedometer cable. Once you locate the cable there is a sheet metal clip with a tab on the bottom, press that tab and off comes the speedometer cable.

We do not currently, is there anything in particular that you are looking for?

@@DixieRestorationDepot 10mm cluster to dash mounting bolts, and screws to mount faceplate to cluster housing.

They are a 194/168 bulb size, make sure you find a dimmable LED or they will be full brightness at all times.

Once the faceplate is removed, a vent extension on the left side of the cluster is held in with 1 Phillips screw. Remove that extension and reach behind the speedometer until you feel the cable, under where the cable connects to the speedometer there is a half-round clip, push that clip toward you, and the cable will pop off and you will be able to remove the entire cluster.

Could you tell me if you're referring to the hex head or the thread? The hex head yes, I believe it is 5.5mm and the thread is almost like a wood screw, they are very odd.

Which would you like to see? How to install one, or how to recover a headliner?

You can glue new felt material to them, available at most craft stores.

@@DixieRestorationDepot thanks

Hey getting ready to do a 1985... anything else I should be aware of? I was a bit disappointed the speaker area is not like the original... I thought about cutting it but after I sobered up I decided not to. I am doin the whole interior because the car was a shell. I was lucky and found a bunch of gbody parts I had stashed. Once I get everything bolted,screwed,clipped and make sure the heat only system I got works I will then dye it... I did test fit the cover and it seemed to fit ok. I realize it needs trimmed. Much appreciated 👍🏻

No, when the unit is initially wired you hook up the rpm input from your source and the Dakota system comes with a speed sensor. The obd2 add-on is nice for LS swapped cars and it allows you to skip wiring everything in as all the information comes from the obd port .

We had to retool them, they will be back, we just aren't sure when yet.

@@DixieRestorationDepot thanks for the fast reply...i was seeing other people use the stock face also for the dakota ..i just wanted to be a simple fit ill try my best with the one i have thanks

The car was a factory gauge car.

They are not plug-and-play, we go through the wiring in another video and show how much wiring is involved.

There is a small flathead screw in the center that holds the tach and clock knobs on.

@@DixieRestorationDepot Thank you! I see it now.

Currently, they are out of stock, we will run more of them but currently, don't have a time frame.

They do! shoot me an email at Info@dixieresto.com and I can send you pictures and information on it.

The grey wire in the bulkhead connector is for illumination, where is your grey wire plugged into in the Dakota box?

There are two flashers, one on the fuse box, and the other on the dashboard above where the hood release is and is held on with two 7mm screws. when going led in the cluster, you won't have to replace the flashers but if you replace the outside lights, you usually will have to.

Unfortunately, new felt guides aren't available yet, a parts car is your best bet and you can re-apply felt to them. The good news is all 2 door G-body felt guides are the same.

The two knobs have small set screws that hold them in, you will need a very small flat head screwdriver to remove them.

@@DixieRestorationDepot thanks I figured it out. Working in this heat had me frustrated lol

A few questions, did you use our cover? removing some material around the radio plate area is common on 86-88 cars because of the radio plate, but I have never had to force the gauge cluster back in, I have had a similar experience with the glovebox area where some need trimming and others fit wonderful.

@@DixieRestorationDepot I bought the cover from American dash caps . Being honest on ease of install. Honestly I would try bondo next time .

Yes, the GPS sending unit is sold separately.

If you have crank windows, I would check the large gear on the regulator and see if it is missing teeth, or if the teeth are heavily worn. On a power window, I would check the same gear, but take a look at the power window motor as well because the pinion gear on the motor may be heavily worn and allowing the window to droop.

@@DixieRestorationDepot I do have manual crank windows, and that big moon shaped saw gear has all it's teeth and they aren't worn. What exactly (which part) is responsible for "holding" the glass where you leave it? Thank you for the reply, by the way.

@@DixieRestorationDepot Do you happen to know of an individual or shop or company that I could pay to figure out this window thing for me? This is the one piece of the whole car that I can't get right/find an expert in. They just roll themselves down with vibration/over bumps and I don't know if the regulator is even responsible for keeping a window in place.

Hey Mark, the best advice I can give is to dry-fit the cover repeatedly, like a good paint job it's all about the prep work, feel free to give me a call with any questions. 877-243-4943 and my name is Rob