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The floor is stock height and the inners come to about 2” from the top of the body

Absolutely fantastic! Couldn’t be happier with the teams how everything holds up. I had to stop filming to get the build done on my timeline but there is a finished build overview on the Rockstar Garage Channel.

Unfortunately to finish on the timeline I had I had to stop filming. There is a completed build overview on the Rockstar Garage channel.

SORRY!!! I had to stop filming to start knocking everything out to get it done by my deadline. Filming just ate up SO much time that I didn’t have. I’m hoping to get back into it at some point

Thanks!

Wish I could have taken twice the time to finish filming the build but there is a completed build overview on the Rockstar Garage channel

Ended up using two full gallon on the body alone. That did three coats

NOOO it’s super smooth. It lays on 8 mils wet and self levels to 1.5. As long as you follow the application instructions it’s SO worth it

I ended up ditching the sprayer but mineral spirits work great

Didn’t end up getting one filmed. Time ran short and I had to start knocking everything out. Filming just took up SO much time

I did it and highly regret it. There’s absolutely 0 ground clearance. I’m currently looking for a 10.5”

Really depends on tire you plan on running. If you go with something bigger for gain the ground clearance you often sacrifice with a 14 Bolt. I ended up selling this and ordering a preshaved ECGS 14 bolt

The only purpose for the bolts on the sides is alignment of the bumper. Then once it’s welded on they can come out

Not sure the actual rating but I’ve ahead 300lbs on it with no issues

Easy, just drilled them. Most aluminum tailgates don’t have any holes in them at all like this one so I just put it on and drilled the 8 holes

I ask myself why the body guy did and didn't do a lot of things lol. Lesson learned that if you want something done right, do it yourself. I added 2 channels that go across the rear floor for support. If I were to use it again Id invest in a high quality professional gun. while I got great coverage, I would have liked to see the paint atomize a little more. I had plenty of paint so I wasn't too concerned with the minimal amount of loss from the hose. there is more lost in overspray than in the hose. It still turned out great so im happy with the results

The Front half kit is designed for full hydro. You COULD make a steering box fit though. The front 4 link could be modified into a 3 link but that's not what I decided to do. I went full hydro so Im keeping the 4 link. Yes, technically you could have some binding issues if you ran a 4 link with a drag link because of the different angles of axle travel.

you will have to run a carrier bearing for the front shaft. With the Hemi/4l80/241c, my rear yoke sits right at the back of the rear crossmember. Its VERY tight in the front so fitting the carrier bearing can be a challenge. Ill be sure to cover it soon in a video. Drivelines will be 1410 non-cv shafts from Yukon

The aw4 retains the factory Cherokee TCU. That got spliced into the factory jeep harness to communicate with the ECU

The measurement between the fender wells is 36" so id estimate 33" between the cables. they are pretty low profile to the brackets.

I definitely am! Ive been so swamped with work so I haven't had an update or video in a while. Ill have more info on the kit as a finished product at some point

thanks! Sounds fun! if your subed you in it. Im due for another video, just been busy

Absolutely! Instagram link should be on the main channel page. Recoil_TJ

similar to the factory skid. Ill end up close to 20" to the skid at ride height

unfortunately the jeep didn't make it there

Nope. It isn't a full shave so it leaves plenty of material left in the casting that will still take a good impact

Will do!

Thanks so much!

Thanks!

Awesome! Glad to hear that, building is a long process that you never stop learning. Im here for any questions!

Thats awesome! Be sure to do a ton of research ahead of time and dont take the project lightly. its a HELL of a learning process and can be pretty tedious.

Good question. It is pretty open and I could add in some extra supports to the rear area. the rolled tube on the back is purely design and not "structural" in term of how I designed it. Yea im sure it adds a minimal amount of stiffness and rigidity to the overall structure but the main structure I focused on was the area that houses the seats. Ultimately that's the most important area in my opinion so I tried to combine a lot of structure and functionality into the important area with some added flare and design where it was less important.

@@RecoilOff-Road it does look great. Would of liked to see a video of the design nd build.

Appreciate it!

Love hearing things like this! Thanks so much for following the progress and my journey of making a "moderately built" TJ into what it will soon be!!!

Glad you enjoy it! So much more to come!

​@@RecoilOff-Road more vids ?

never had an issue with that and I take mine to the beach often. Id guess that those people are likely under coating and not prepping the surface thoroughly. That is key to creating a proper bond with the stainless and the parent material.

Technically yes you could. However I would run their original 4 link kit (MB1517). It has been used as a 3 link front in the past and has some different geometry characteristics that may suit it better for that.

@@RecoilOff-Road Yeah I kinda picked that out but like you I was thinking upgrade.

That's a good idea! Thanks!