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Alright the high speed air bleeds , the two closest bleeds to the vent at the air horn control how much air is induced into the emulsion holes so it can't draw but so much air, so its not being emulsified the air & fuel correctly now i don't know if this is a aftermarket block they can have 3 to 6 emulsion holes. Usually 3 to 4 emulsion holes is all you need they usually range from .027 to .030 for instance hole1.027 , hole2 .027 hole3 029 this is an example and mabe a hsab of .030 . This isn't set in stone just an example. Hope this helps.

Replace the power valve on the block thats rich , now if you raise the idle speed, transfer slots will richen up the mixture. Changing the idle fuel restrictor from lower to upper is no big deal.

@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 Well I just pulled the vacuum cap off the full manifold port under the carb I'm running ported and a dribble of gas came out of the port onto the manifold ? Not sure if that is a bad power valve but I've been having issues ever since I had it . I never seen that before until now no gas should be in any vacuum area

I had a bad power valve before and it saturated the cork gaskets for the idle mixture screws at a stop light I could watch the mixture go from 13 down to 10 .

When the diaphragm is leaking it usually draws fuel through the vacuum hole that feeds the pv.

Usually the check( slash counter weight) under the squirter screw gets stuck, be careful not to let it drop down the intake. If it keeps happening you may have to clean and gently reseat the check/ counter weight using a small punch and small hammer. lol

Hope it helps

I can't , due to health problems.

Your welcome.

Your welcome

We do the best we can, and try to improve. If you have a problem you can always leave me a message. Other than that if your not happy there's always other channels out there. Hope this helps

This mod requires a lot of time, removing the primary butterflies and throttle shaft and slightly open up the throttle bore. This is more of a custom mod. It so easy to damage a 850 throttle plate. The primary idle speed screw cannot be used to set idle speed, you have to use secondaries idle speed screw or air bypass holes in low engine vacuum conditions. Hope this helps

@HolleyCarbs, ok, thanks much. does this mod improve off idle and low rpm throttle response or what is the resulting performance improvement of this mod. thanks again.

I like the idea of having full control over the idle mixture, but if the carb is tuned right its hard to o say, could be a small advantage. At the same time it can be more trouble to tune.

@HolleyCarbs ok, thank you very much for your informative responses.

Thanks for watching

Thank you.

Thanks Paul

You have to leave the holes open. Hope this helps.

The holley book i have just mainly deals with specs and parts. I'll get that information for you in the next couple days.

My book is the ( Holley Performance Products 2012 ) there may be an updated version now. My copy is falling apart lol. Hope this helps.

Sounds like either your accelerator pump discharge nozzles are to small or your pump is not working correctly or both. Hope this helps.

19 -1 is way to lean , usually they won't even idle at 19-1, if now talking about a stock engine yes it is much easier to figure your fuel curve A typical 4 corner idle circuit you need to limit your ifr size and increase your iab size, now if you add a racing cam you have to bypass enough air to correct your transfer slots and then you work with your ifr and iab . Hope this helps.

My nova was mostly used as a drag car, but when I locked out my distributor advance the engine idled so much better. There are several ways to do this, a full lock out or recurve the distributor advance, recurving the advance means for instance you might want to set your ignition timing to 26 degrees initially and bring 8 or 10 degrees in mechanically for your total ignition advance of maybe 34 to 36 degrees. You will probably need a start retard box to retard timing while cranking. I ran MSD ignition with a start retard box on mine but other companies offer the same thing. Hope this helps

@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 Thanks for the tip. Will try this out and let you know result 🙂

Glad you like them!

Thats part of converting from a 2 circuit to a 4 circuit idle system. I have a video that covers the complete modification.

Absolutely!

The largest 4150 throttle plate i believe is 1.800 , unless its totally custom. I don't know if you have enough material to match the main body to the throttle plates.

​@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 so if I had enough material to grind out I could do it

Would have to relocate idle circuit and make sure there is sufficient clearence between the butterflies and main body. I have never attempted this so your on uncharted ground.

Thank you

Yes and i always blend the main body to fit the throttle plates.

I sorry I don't do blow through carb stuff.

Check your gasket between the main body and throttle plate, the wrong gasket can block the idle circuit and cause it not to idle.

Thanks

Thanks

Is your emulsion circuit adjustable?

@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 yes. Billet aluminum aftermarket block.

I need to know how many emulsion holes and what brand block

@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 Deepmotor Manufacturer Part Number DM-1110MB. Thanks again for your time & support!

I'll have you a fuel curve tomorrow.

If the power valve threads are there and has not been modified then I would say its miss built, you can always drill your pvcr. Hope this helps.

Due to health problems , l'm not rebuilding at this time. Sorry.

Glad to help

Just don't go to lean and thanks for watching.

Did you order high pressure pumps?

@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 stock pumps for a 67 cougar 289

If those fuel pumps are factory stock there defective, pressure should be around 5 to 6psi no stock carburetor will hold that kind of pressure period. When the internal bypass stops up, thats whats causing the high fuel pressure.

@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 thanks! Just got my 3rd pump today, and this one at 5.6 psi, works great, I'm 68 and for the last 7 years I volunteer in a restoration shop for cars 1924 - 1980, one or two days a week,you got to stay busy, I was the care taker for alcatraz island ,the only maintenance worker on the island , it was hell with 5,000 tourist every day on 22 arces of island! Thanks my friend!

Sorry can't do.

Thanks

The one I fixed would restart but driving down the road when you pull the clutch in it would shut off. Crazy problems!

@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 everything that I'm seeing leads to ignition coil, will get back after installing. :D

ignition coil was not it! Next steps is diafram replacement and checking valves again

After coil replace and diafram with pin hole replaced, went a second round to check valves, ONE WAS TIGHT! haha Bingo! Runs like a top at very low idle with lots of power, works now!

Thanks

Its hard to say without seeing it, I've set up Holleys with no transfer slots exposed at idle at all, so the idle mixture is controlled by the mixture screws only and the transfer slots operate only above idle. I have seen some machining errors on the transfer slots but rarely.

Anytime.

I do have a video, i believe its under idle circuits mods for high duration camshafts, but you might try raising the secondary idle speed and lowering the primary side, sometimes this works if not then drill bypass holes. Hope this helps.

Ford had a vacuum and electric solenoid combined back in the 80s , the electric was anti dieseling and the vacuum was the a/c kicker which worked off a vacuum solenoid that energized when the a/c clutch was turned on.

Its special lol

Alright do you have m08750vs or a traditional 750 holley, tell me what you've tryed so far any information will help.

Look on the main body side of thr metering block, right above the idle circuit. Hope this helps.

@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 What should i be looking for?

An extra hole above the idle circuit is your intermediate circuit.

@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 ok Thx u👍

@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 Thx you👍

Your welcome.

You can do it either way, you can change front only or you can change front and rear and square all four corners.

There is basically two reasons, first reason is to hide it if the rules don't allow modifications, the other is if you damage the the original bleed in the air horn drilling it out.

Thank you

Thanks

I'm not a blower guy but it seems they wanted to richen the mixture in the secondaries as rpms increased. Don't know if your blower is over driven or under driven but it sounds like they blocked the hsabs to help a lean condition. Hope this helps

Yes I'll get back tomorrow.

Whats your email address? I'll email you my phone number.