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Thanks for another great video Jen!

Thanks!

Great comparison test Jen. Out of interest which one is kinder on the planet?

I mainly use Mr Color and Colorcoats enamels for spraying, though with Sovereign Hobbies now quitting producing paint I will be using acrylic lacquers more now. I'm not sure I'm that keen on paints that are pre-thinned as if you want to paint a small bit with a brush it's too thin. I don't know why AK went with those bottles for the new real colors. I would have preferred the styles of bottle that Ammo are using with the Atom paints - a lid with a small hole/dropper in that you can unscrew and have the full diameter access to the paint in the bottle.

So glad to see that I'm not the only one that "procures" blue paper from work.

Great video to show the comparison. AK really messed up their Real Colors range. When first released they were some weird hybrid that you could thin with water. I had a set from this period and, like you, I thought they were naff. They smelled weird (like almonds from memory) and sprayed terribly using various different thinners. AK then changed the formula to a pure lacquer type similar to Mr Color paints but frustratingly didn't tell anyone (much to the chagrin of those who were thinning with water and had a nasty gloopy surprise waiting for them). They didn't mark it in any way on the packaging either. I have some of these "second edition" Real Colors too and they spray just like the one in your test so I think the only real change is the new bottle. On a technical basis I did like the few SMS I've sprayed but I found their rendition of RLM74/75/76 to be awful. I have no idea what reference chips they were basing it off. Their RAF colours may be much better but I'm not too fussed to find that out as the MRP RAF range is already bang on to my eye. MRP are still the best in my view. I exclusively work in 1/72 and the detail you can get from them thinned down slightly with MLT in a 0.18mm airbrush is second-to-none.

Hi. I am Thomas from Germany and I enjoy your Videos very much. Now I ordered the Airfix Mustang with all the additions. I am looking forward to get started to build this kit with you.

Very interesting video seeing the differences with these paints. Never used MRP paints, tend to stick with SMS and Mr Hobby (although i do find Mr Hobby dries out in the jar and has to be reactivated with the liquid they sell for this). Not tried them as yet but do have the new AK RCS119 US Air Force real colour set. Box states “Lacquer based paints recommended for airbrush use. Dilute with RC701/RC702 thinners”.

I agree with you Jen on that all 3 are very good paints and there is not much in it and it comes down to exactly what you said, personal preference. Regarding the Dropper bottles and not being good for putting paint back into the bottle, well I only recently saw a trick for this. The remaining paint that is in your airbrush, you squeeze the dropper bottle letting air out then tip the bottle into your airbrush and let go of the squeeze and the bottle will suck up all the remaining paint, was quite surprised when I saw it done , but thought id mention it as its all about sharing tips & tricks with each other as we never ever stop learning which is one part of the hobby I love, learning new things about our awesome hobby. I also Wanted to ask you if you have any intentions of possibly testing Outlaw paints which is fairly new to the UK but ive tried them over a few months and Ive been blown away by them and as you seem to be quite the fan of airbrush ready paints, well these are also airbrush ready. Would love to see you doing a test on them, thanks, Chris.

Despite being more expensive, the Mr Color is actually better value as, unlike Tamiya Lacquer, which comes in nearly identical size containers, Mr Colour is NOT pre-thinned. In fact it is quite viscuous in the bottle, which means that you use less paint per session and the bottle lasts longer. Tamiya lacquer is thinned almost to airbrush standard (Not quite, but almost). The minus is you have to thin it yourself to the right flow consistency. I also use lacquers widely and on average I use 2-2.5 bottles of Tamiya Lacquer to 1 bottle of Mr Color, given the same color or not. I have recently been able to test out SMS, and it is great - the bigger bottle makes it good value. (My other main paint type is Enamel, which I tend to thin with Lacquer thinners anyway.) Very Old-School, I am!

Hi! I've tested some years ago the MRPs and can honestly say that they were the best paints I've ever tried!... From the final surface quality standpoint, I mean. I was very impressed! Their rather weak covering power didn't bothered me at all. What did bother me were the colour shades they were supposed to represent. As I am a colour freak 😑, it would have meant to try and find the right recipe for the colours I needed... I was curious about the AK's "new" Real Colours... As a matter of fact I also did test the initial series of RC and my conclusion was that there were two types. The ones for AFVs, with translucent lids and red dot on the set boxes (like the one you were showing us), were more matt, rougher and brittle. I didn't like them. The other ones, for aviation, with black lids and blue dot on the set boxes, were much nicer, more resilient, with a silky, smooth finish. Very similar to Mr. Color C series. (Different smell though.) I did like them and AK was much closer to the indicated colour shades than MRP... The SMS were completely unknown to me. After many tests my go to paints are the C series from Mr. Color, not least because I can find them easily. AK's RC series (air colours) are close behind, although I didn't get to work with them extensively... Thank you for the test! 👍

Hi, great video tutorial. One question, is you mention the tryzac sanding sponge quite a lot but dont mention what grade it is, as I looked it up and just like sand paper it comes in loads of different grades, so wondering what grade of tryzac your using to feather the edge to remove the step in the paint, just so I can order the right grade number. My second question is regarding AK Paints, I was watching Flory Models as he reviewed them as well and he was in contact with the guys from AK paints and they assured him that the new paints are identical in every way to the older bottles, except they are now in the new dropper bottles, I think Phil Flory needed to know if the paint had changed in anyway with him being a model supply distributer so they are not airbrush thinned like the MRP or SMS and do need thinning and you can actually thin AK up to 70% thinners which is why I love them myself as you get loads more use out of them as they last much longer and work out very good in price seeing how much you can thin them, sorry for the long message. Thanks. Chris.

Hi, the new bottled AK is supposed to be exactly the same paint as the old glass bottles.

Interesting to know AK has changed. Asked them a few times and they replied the formula was the same, just in a new bottle. I like the old AK RC as well. My second favourite paint after GSI aqueous.

Lol Siri is trolling you Skynet style 😂

Hello Jen 🙂 Thank you again for making these very helpful videos, a pleasure to watch as always 🙂 I firmly believe in priming the model, figure, etc. before applying any colors. I use lacquers of almost all brands currently on the market. For me, they are the easiest and most reliable to work with from start to finish. I use Mr. Hobby/Mr. Color thinner for all lacquers, they respond well to it. Frankly, I prefer the 10ml. bottles over the eye dropper type AK Real Colors recently converted to. Keep the videos coming please! They are a great learning tool for this very experienced mediocre modeller 😂 Take care, Jim 😊

1t's down to supply isn't it ! Not always convenient to buy on line , I need to go into a shop to LOOK at them , therefore limited to Humbrol I'm afraid , I can't justify doing a round trip of 140 miles for paint >

I took another look at my copy of this kit (bought in October 2021) and mine, too, has the hairline mark on the clear canopy in exactly the same place as yours. Happily, the pilot isn't an amputee, though I did notice that while yours looks quite glossy and shiny (the pilot at least) mine is quite satin. This kit looks beautiful and if it fits together half as well as it looks I will be very happy :)

kislux versace bag is so cute

Looking forward to the build. I ordered the extras sense they seem to be not to complicated to use and have wanted to try using photo etch. The 3d panel does look really good.

HEY kislux I have been watching you for years and im so proud of where you have made it! I love you so much! Also thanks for making my day <3

Really enjoyed this series and am looking forward to the Mustang and Defiant 😊. Keep up the good work 👍

Ready to go but without any extras, for me it's going to be more an exercise in painting and weathering. Really looking forward to starting!

Looking forward to this.

Brilliant stuff, Jen! Well played.

Good video. Bought one with your link. 👍

Looking forward to this one. You might just inspire me to build "another" Mustang. Peace

Managed to bag the OD and BMF boxing with the Mustang motif on the yellow tail from MFS at the same price so I guess I'm on the bus! It's a cool scheme. Should be fun. Those Brassin wheels are a smart move as sorting the seam line on the tread on the kit wheels could be tricky. Not sure how much of the cockpit you'll see though.

Looking forward to it

I am looking forward to following along and learning how to put down a decent paint finish on something like this.

Top opener is a good idea like the little boxes of cereal

Lovely update video Jen thankyou 😁👍 I'm really looking forward to seeing this build and seriously considering joining in too. Silly question but I'm assuming we wait for the first video to come out, then start your own build using it as a guide? Thanks for posting. Take care Bobby

The Mosquito series was great so looking forward to this. Especially how you tackle the natural metal. That's always something I struggle with.

👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

I love the Quinta Studios 3D decals. Far more effective than etch. I do think though that they are better in 1/32 scale. Some washes really helps bed them in.

Another fine video, however, I'd like to ask a question. You may have mentioned it and I simply missed it but why did you buy that aftermarket a) at all and b) as opposed to other pieces of aftermarket? Personally, if this was my second kit I possibly wouldn't have bought the wheels. I appreciate the eduard space set as aftermarket should feature as part of your journey f4om beginner to advances somewhere. Thans Jen

Very nice vid, thanks. - it would be interesting to see how to achieve the required wing strut angle without a supplied jig?

I am on this one. Looking forward to following along.

just finished the p51d the millie g from airfix

By luck, I have a 1/48 Tamiya Mustang with the same decal sets, so I will follow along using that kit. Will see about Eduard upgrades for that kit as well - cheers!

Looking forward to this build, I've got the kit in ready to go. Not sure if I'll get the aftermarket bits for it yet but I've never used the 3D decals so I guess this would be a good place to start.

With quinoa and other 3d sets. After they've been out in, you can go over them with a dark wash( more pain wash) also add some dust and nicks in the paint. If wanna see some spectacular use of those 3d sets, check out Doogs models and his 32nd A6 intruder. He added 3d printed knobs and switches and it looks amazing. Just like decals on the aircraft, you have to weather them too.

For what it may be worth to you, I feel that your teaching techniques are right on the money. You've got me now.

Greetings from the USA and thanks for your service. Worked on the "K" model in the 80s when they were at Lyneham, didn't know that the black panel on the fin is a deicing boot thought it was just an antenna. Too bad the RAF got rid of all their Hercs, at least some found new homes. Some of the Ks ended up in Austria and Mexico and a couple of Js went to Bangladesh. One J Model ZH885 was sold to the US Government and now flies for the US Marines as 170000 "Fat Albert" for the US Navy Blue Angels display team. Looks like a good model kit with lots of details for 1/72 scale, might be nice to do one of each in RAF and Blue Angels colors and display them side by side.

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For the the price Airfix are charging there shouldn't be any 'warped' or short shot parts on these kits at all!

Talking of black aircraft, what happened to the Sr-71 as I’am about to build one and found your videos helpful? Thanks Jen

"In a market where there aren't many sensible kits at sensible prices"...BINGO! This is a niche in the market that is SO under represented. And so needed to encourage fresh blood (was that too ghoulish?) into the hobby. This looks like an EXCELLENT kit for a beginner's series. Great review.

Been down this road...just ended up with Tamiya again, its just the best. Also use wide normal masking tape for sensitive surfaces to mask off larger areas. However i never let it touch the model, fix it on top of Tamiya tape...Love your vids! 😊

My vote is for Defiant and the Mustang.I would say that if there were the matchbox kits and the old Airfix kits.They were great for the beginners but only the Airifx kits are existing now in the Vintage Classics kits.Great models for the 1/48 kits beginners were the ESCI'S kits nad the Otaki/Arii kits.