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Thank you, William! Have you seen this older one yet? How to Weather Decals on your Tanks | How to Paint Warhammer Tanks Episode 8/14 th-cam.com/video/5Kweme2-dVc/w-d-xo.html

Sure thing, but it might have to wait until early January - don’t have any good pics of them, and I’m traveling tomorrow. You’re welcome to remind me in a few weeks - been meaning to do an army showcase anyway!

@ will do thanks

Thanks for the tip, will give it a try. As for the satin finish, I did not complain - I said clearly in the conclusions that the brand tells you to you the gloss black base.

My apologies then. I wrote the comment halfway through the gold comparison, without hearing that part. Hope the tip comes in useful.

@@mikoajniedziela7383 Very useful, and no apologies needed. Regards, Enrique

Thank you kindly, Dyifireking!

Hi Roboute, great question, but you answered it yourself. I only highlighted the Imperial Eagle on these, using Tamiya X-12 thinned with IPA and applied with a small synthetic brush. On Dreadnoughts and infantry I also highly eagles and stuff like that, same method. Otherwise, "just let the paint reflect", like you said, of course with contrast increased significantly through the use of oil washes and airbrush post-shading. Both of these methods were used with the Pallas, which I didn't show in the videos mostly because I don't want to bore people by showing always the same steps.

@ Thank you for the response. I’m only just stepping into this style of painting with these highly reflective metals. Gonna have to give them a try.

@@robouteguilliman6662 Any time! You won't be disappointed if you try them. Bear in mind I use them for infantry also - never made any videos about them because with my setup recording how I paint infantry is a huge pain, but it works just as well.

@ That was my plan too until I can get some vehicles. Never really liked the more common ranges of gold and the harder stuff looks incredible. I was thinking of undercoating with a brown/burnt sienna for shadows too.

Hi FireandHonour, a good question, but one which 2 other people already asked below...I'm afraid they don't work well (or in my opinion, at all) with the brush. Sorry!

Excellent question, deliriation! Simply put, it has: a) become my new favorite airbrush, and b) opened my eyes to the fact that double action, trigger airbrushes are probably better for most people except airbrush artists. With the 3 nozzle sizes that come with it (0.3, 0.5, 0.7), it is far from an airbrush "for priming". I own 8 airbrushes from 4 different brands, including H&S...and this is the number 1 airbrush I would recommend to any scale modeller or miniature painter. If you like, you can use the code TheRaceForTerra010 for 10% off.

Hi Rutgaur, do you mean "GILD" without the U? They look quite interesting, I must say, but it's a UK brand without distribution in Europe, by the looks of it. In any case, "left-field" is what this channel is all about, and thanks for the idea!

@TheRaceForTerra Hi, I meant paints specifically formulated for repairs as I mentioned about above. They should be sold state side, I'm racking my brain for a specific brand that might be available: try Gild Lane and see what you think as they are what I picked up.

Interesting, thanks! I will try that for UV resin (I use it for water effects). Cheers, and I hope you enjoyed the video!

Thank you very much, derianardor! I use many of their products, and most of them are great!

Hi, Sbeaber, I have used Tamiya X-12 quite a lot, ironically mostly with a brush, which works terrible in general, but I use it only to pick up details like Imperial Eagles on the Custodes - quite like it for that. I also own a gold LP lacquer my Tamiya, but it's for car models, and the flake is way too large for miniature painting.

Excellent question! I always mention needle size at the start of each video segment where I airbrush, and normally I put it on screen with the materials also, so to you can go back and check for specific paints if you like. Having said that, the question remains a very important one, like I said! The sweet spot for me has always been 0.5mm, first with my Patriot, and now with the Swallowtail - with pressure always around 20 psi. Smaller needles only make sense when applying effects (e.g. shading) or painting details. I would strongly recommend getting a 0.5 needle airbrush - this is likely to make the EXPERIENCE more enjoyable for you, which I think is key. Can I mention the fact that I have a 10% discount code for all Gaahleri products…? 😇

How absurd - YT "held" your comment as if it were inappropriate or something! I literally found it by coincidence. Yes, availability is of course a factor - I've been limited in how many Japanese paints I can get, for example. As for copper or bronze, that could easily be my next...spoons video. How about that? 😉

@@TheRaceForTerra how weird, not sure what word could have triggered it lol but yeah please more spoons :D <3

​@@M0U53B41TTH-cam thought your acrylic now bit with the full stop between wax a link, which automatically triggers the spam filters I expect.

Hahah, I knew I was forgetting something, markie! Dammit, I wanted to say you were my inspiration for this video - will make a comment of it and post it! Very happy you liked it, mate, and again thank you for your kind words. It has been rather demoralizing for me to see many videos where I invested 10-20 hours of work to perform really poorly on YT in the last 2 years, and comments like yours make it all worth it. Have not tried MRC Rapid Thinner, no, but happy to try it next. At the risk of sounding cheeky, are you aware that I have a Patreon and a Discord server? I think you would enjoy the community - send me an email and if you like, you can join for free, then you decide what to do 😉.

unfortunately in my experience it can clog the airbrush easier - that may be entirely on me however - but also, I don't tend to use the Vallejo metals with my airbrush, only lacquer/enamels. Dry tip and clogs literally drove me into buying an extrator hood (sp) and just to note it's well worth it imo if you want to airbrush metals in particular

Thanks for the suggestion, but yeah, I think the answer below from MOUS5B4IT is spot-on. I have seen Vince’s video on this, but: a) I don’t think the finish is as good or can physically be given how fine the atomization of these paints was (his photography is rather crude, as awesome as the channel is, so it’s hard to tell). Also, that would surely clog the airbrush like there’s no tomorrow - even if it was absolutely amazing, I would still prioritize ease of use and quality of experience. Warning - even if you only spray water-based acrylic paints, without an extractor, you are putting your health at risk. Please be careful, and let me know if you need info on this.

@@M0U53B41T thanks for your reply. I thought it might be the case where pigments will not be suitable for airbrushing. I am still looking for a good extraction fan for my spray booth, but the ones available to me are too weak imo to take out fumes. They are all about 187m3/hr (110cfm) flow rate for a 100mm/4" fan.

@@TheRaceForTerra thanks for your reply also. I am using a respirator mask with good filters ofc so thanks for caring about our health. It's unfortunate that recipe wouldn't probably work. I already experience a lot of tip dry and clogging just with normal acrylic so adding pigment powder may be a disaster. As I have said I have used it with a brush and it looks good but I do get brushstrokes showing. I have a galatus and telemon that I want to paint someday, but I am still waiting for telemon weapons to come back in stock so I will wait longer

But that’s for acrylics. Solvents and lacquers will be better in every way to them

Hi mate, yes, of course - I bought it just for this video, because I know how much some of you like that range! Now I am donating it to my school club, as I only use acrylics there, for safety reasons! We have 3 other VMC bottles (one from the steel spoons test), and in fact we just used them to undercoat a bunch of scenery pieces - because I already taught them how to use chipping effects! 😎 Hope you enjoyed the video!

😀 Should have thought of that for one of the titles!

Good question, and yes, definitely! Always part of my cleaning routine - I use AK Xtreme Cleaner, highly recommended

You are very welcome! I’m afraid only the Vallejo one can be applied by brush, however.

@TheRaceForTerra Im impressed with ammo of mig paint. Is easy to get here but even like that only in january Im going to get it. Again thank you for all this!

Anytime, mate! I appreciate folks like you, who are polite, constructive, and ask good questions. 👍

@@TheRaceForTerra Im a kind of long time fan of your channel and your amazing tips. Due to you, night shift, grimdark compendium and other persons on Instagram i discover my style of painting and i am improving on it. Thank you!

I’m afraid will perform poorly - lacquers are not meant to be applied by hand.

@ I was hoping you were going to say the opposite, I need a good bright gold. I find the Vallejo one to green.

@@wingwalker007I know - but Scale75 has a brilliant range of different holds - great for brush painting

@@TheRaceForTerra just to note, there is a Tamiya retarder but I suspect it'd only be useful for its own line of acrylic hybrid - not like the 100% lacquers =/ I got it to do mostly touch ups and it's definitely solvent based. It might be worth investigating?

Good point, no, it works with both. I used to use Tamiya Lacquer Thinner w/retarder all the time, remember? Many people buy the regular and add the retarder separately.

Thanks, Loren!

Thank you very much!

Thanks, buddy, that’s the idea! See you at the Quiz on Saturday! 🙂

Thanks, Adam!

Thank you, counting on you to participate in multiple fronts! 😀

Happy you liked the content even if you are not a metalhead like me!

@@TheRaceForTerra Oh I do like metal. I just find so many TH-camrs use it, it gets a annoying. Keep it but may turn the volume down a bit.

@@markburgess4528 Well, it is a 3 and a half year old video - I am much better at both video and audio editing now. Try my last video and see the difference: th-cam.com/video/iVvC3OOPqzw/w-d-xo.html

You are very welcome, Forgeur!

Hahah, well, time to study, buddy! 😉

Thanks a lot, Kamerad! Happy I could be your inspiration! 👍

Thank you, Tom! 👍

Happy to hear that! Hope you enjoyed the video, buddy!

Heheh, thank you, Haltes!

Thank you! Cheers!

My pleasure! By the way, I am spraying the 2k clear on the red panels of all the vehicles I had done prior to this - tried with 2 Pallas I painted before, and it worked fine!

Hahah, well, the clear coat you can always add later - I just did with my 2 previous Pallas speeders, and before the game I am doing all other vehicles!

@@TheRaceForTerra The one thing I learned doing your method was..... do NOT buy HEAVY DUTY scotch pads. Only regular pads, else getting the bright aluminum paint through it is a real challenge and can increase the chance of messing it up.

@@Deliriation Absolutely, and don't forget that I always pick at them to make them thinner - I would say I leave 70% of the material or so.

😀👍 I hope to join your demographic soon!

@@TheRaceForTerra the Barbatos Rex channel is a good place to see paint reviews. Robert buys just about every paint line to try. He has his own line of paints and 2K clear, but I haven't tried any of them. I do have the Barbatos Rex Swallowtail airbrush though, and enjoy using it to lay down layers.

I know it well! 👍

Thank you for your kind words, Markie! The gold video should be coming out by the end of next week if everything goes well - just a matter of finding the time for the editing now 😉. Regards, Enrique

Hi Skaldbrush, thanks for the kind words! The larger the scale, the easier it gets - my Orion Dropship was the easiest! I would give it a go if I were you, mate.

@@TheRaceForTerra that’s very encouraging! I have a few questions about it if you have the time to answer. How does it affect the trim around it? Does it leave any thick texture or glossy surface? And if I were to make a mistake and it needed to be removed, is this a very “permanent” coat or will alcohol still break it down like acrylic

Just subbed to your channel, mate! As for your questions: 1) this you would apply BEFORE you paint the trim, not after, so it won’t affect it; 2) However, I went over 2 Pallas I had previously painted - just makes the trim shinier, because it is way glossier than any paints or varnishes for mini painting. Can always knock it down it you like (cover the candy first); 3) when I say it’s tough, I mean it - there is no way you are removing it, except with acetone. You wouldn’t want to remove it, in any case! If your customer likes a glass-like finish, they’ll love it - otherwise I wouldn’t use it. Again, it’s a clear coat like those on actual cars, not a varnish. I hope this helps!

@@TheRaceForTerra this is exactly what I needed to hear! If it were just my model I’d absolutely give it a go but when someone trusts you with a model that costs thousands I don’t think I should be taking any risks. If I could guarantee a result like yours I’d do it in a heartbeat but I think I’ll just play it safe and stick to the Tamiya clear (which your previous videos inspired me to try). Thank you for the sub mate! I’ll be sure to give you credit if it turns out well 🙏🏻

Thank you kindly - happy you enjoyed it, my friend!

Hahah, no, it’s like clear coat for cars - but it’s hard like glass when it cures!

Indeed, D Dog! Hope you enjoyed the video!

This is the way!

Hi Francesco, sure, just make sure not to get any texture, as that is more likely to happen with water-based paints. Let me know how it goes!