A huge thank you to markie7465 for the idea behind this video and for your kind words of encouragement! It’s always heartwarming to hear from subscribers like you, and your feedback truly keeps me motivated to create. For those of you who might have ideas or specific topics you’d love to see covered, joining my Patreon is a great way to make it happen! My Patrons on Discord not only help shape the channel by suggesting video ideas, but they also get to bounce ideas around with me and the amazing Race for Terra community. It’s a collaborative space where your voice has a direct impact. That said, I’m incredibly grateful for every single one of you here-whether you’re a subscriber, a Patreon supporter, or just someone who enjoys the content. Thank you for being part of this journey. 💬 Let me know what you think of this video in the comments!
Do you think running a bit of pure solvent through the airbrush before going with a solvent-based enamel paint would make it flow more smoothly from the start and help reduce clogs?
I can't lie, I might have yelped a bit when I saw the video pop up on my TH-cam home page. haha... Thank you SO so much for doing this video. As always, it was absolutely fantastic!!! Your entire channel is a wealth of tips, tricks, and knowledge to help us modellers, and I can't thank you enough for sharing. Have you tried the Mr. Color's Rapid thinner? If you have, have you noticed any difference between it and the levelling thinner in results with metallic colours? I have both, and I actually tried adding a bit to Alclad's pale gold and it gave a very impressive and realistic metal finish.
Hahah, I knew I was forgetting something, markie! Dammit, I wanted to say you were my inspiration for this video - will make a comment of it and post it! Very happy you liked it, mate, and again thank you for your kind words. It has been rather demoralizing for me to see many videos where I invested 10-20 hours of work to perform really poorly on YT in the last 2 years, and comments like yours make it all worth it. Have not tried MRC Rapid Thinner, no, but happy to try it next. At the risk of sounding cheeky, are you aware that I have a Patreon and a Discord server? I think you would enjoy the community - send me an email and if you like, you can join for free, then you decide what to do 😉.
@TheRaceForTerra Im impressed with ammo of mig paint. Is easy to get here but even like that only in january Im going to get it. Again thank you for all this!
@@TheRaceForTerra Im a kind of long time fan of your channel and your amazing tips. Due to you, night shift, grimdark compendium and other persons on Instagram i discover my style of painting and i am improving on it. Thank you!
Hi FireandHonour, a good question, but one which 2 other people already asked below...I'm afraid they don't work well (or in my opinion, at all) with the brush. Sorry!
most of my paint choices tend to be more by what's available to me, so I like both Alclad and Vallejo. Sometimes I can get Mr Color/Hobby etc for an ok price - it's nice how long all of these paints will last you as well! I tend to use the Vallejo for brushing, rather than airbrushing because it's such a lovely paint and acrylic.Now - please go and find us a decent copper that isn't too red, isn't actually just bronze or some other version thereof! LOL
How absurd - YT "held" your comment as if it were inappropriate or something! I literally found it by coincidence. Yes, availability is of course a factor - I've been limited in how many Japanese paints I can get, for example. As for copper or bronze, that could easily be my next...spoons video. How about that? 😉
Have you thought about trying Vince Venturella's gold recipe? It is a blend of acrylics with some pigment powder. I have used it myself but only with a brush. I think it's quite comparable to your Mr. Color/Ammo result. I honestly don't know if pigment powders can work through an airbrush or not, but if it is possible it would be nice to see a test against Mr. Color and Ammo. As I don't have fumes extraction to spray lacquers and enamels.
unfortunately in my experience it can clog the airbrush easier - that may be entirely on me however - but also, I don't tend to use the Vallejo metals with my airbrush, only lacquer/enamels. Dry tip and clogs literally drove me into buying an extrator hood (sp) and just to note it's well worth it imo if you want to airbrush metals in particular
Thanks for the suggestion, but yeah, I think the answer below from MOUS5B4IT is spot-on. I have seen Vince’s video on this, but: a) I don’t think the finish is as good or can physically be given how fine the atomization of these paints was (his photography is rather crude, as awesome as the channel is, so it’s hard to tell). Also, that would surely clog the airbrush like there’s no tomorrow - even if it was absolutely amazing, I would still prioritize ease of use and quality of experience. Warning - even if you only spray water-based acrylic paints, without an extractor, you are putting your health at risk. Please be careful, and let me know if you need info on this.
@@M0U53B41T thanks for your reply. I thought it might be the case where pigments will not be suitable for airbrushing. I am still looking for a good extraction fan for my spray booth, but the ones available to me are too weak imo to take out fumes. They are all about 187m3/hr (110cfm) flow rate for a 100mm/4" fan.
@@TheRaceForTerra thanks for your reply also. I am using a respirator mask with good filters ofc so thanks for caring about our health. It's unfortunate that recipe wouldn't probably work. I already experience a lot of tip dry and clogging just with normal acrylic so adding pigment powder may be a disaster. As I have said I have used it with a brush and it looks good but I do get brushstrokes showing. I have a galatus and telemon that I want to paint someday, but I am still waiting for telemon weapons to come back in stock so I will wait longer
Just wondering, what needle size do you typically use for painting? I tend to get a lot of clogging using a .35 at 20-25 psi, even when thinned properly. Not sure if its from a lower quality compressor, or poor technique.
Excellent question! I always mention needle size at the start of each video segment where I airbrush, and normally I put it on screen with the materials also, so to you can go back and check for specific paints if you like. Having said that, the question remains a very important one, like I said! The sweet spot for me has always been 0.5mm, first with my Patriot, and now with the Swallowtail - with pressure always around 20 psi. Smaller needles only make sense when applying effects (e.g. shading) or painting details. I would strongly recommend getting a 0.5 needle airbrush - this is likely to make the EXPERIENCE more enjoyable for you, which I think is key. Can I mention the fact that I have a 10% discount code for all Gaahleri products…? 😇
This might seem like an idea out of left field, but have tried experimenting with guild paints? Meant for making spot repairs on vases, fridges and other objects, sounds insane, but I've picked one up for use on a third party fantasy mini (thinned down, of course), for a test run, after I've cleared my slate of models.
Hi Rutgaur, do you mean "GILD" without the U? They look quite interesting, I must say, but it's a UK brand without distribution in Europe, by the looks of it. In any case, "left-field" is what this channel is all about, and thanks for the idea!
@TheRaceForTerra Hi, I meant paints specifically formulated for repairs as I mentioned about above. They should be sold state side, I'm racking my brain for a specific brand that might be available: try Gild Lane and see what you think as they are what I picked up.
Hi Roboute, great question, but you answered it yourself. I only highlighted the Imperial Eagle on these, using Tamiya X-12 thinned with IPA and applied with a small synthetic brush. On Dreadnoughts and infantry I also highly eagles and stuff like that, same method. Otherwise, "just let the paint reflect", like you said, of course with contrast increased significantly through the use of oil washes and airbrush post-shading. Both of these methods were used with the Pallas, which I didn't show in the videos mostly because I don't want to bore people by showing always the same steps.
@@robouteguilliman6662 Any time! You won't be disappointed if you try them. Bear in mind I use them for infantry also - never made any videos about them because with my setup recording how I paint infantry is a huge pain, but it works just as well.
@ That was my plan too until I can get some vehicles. Never really liked the more common ranges of gold and the harder stuff looks incredible. I was thinking of undercoating with a brown/burnt sienna for shadows too.
Currently have a 8000 point heresy Custodes army still in grey plastic and resin haven’t attempted to paint yet as I have been struggling to find a gold shade that I like can you show any of the infantry models you have painted with this method of gold please
Sure thing, but it might have to wait until early January - don’t have any good pics of them, and I’m traveling tomorrow. You’re welcome to remind me in a few weeks - been meaning to do an army showcase anyway!
I like you added the vallejo one. It is my gold of choice; being acrylic. And They Brian really well too, while you won’t think so if you see the praint consistency. Yet, I don’t really know why they chose to make this faded more grey gold over a more yellow finish. Personally, using it in combination with and over a base coat of Vallejo copper gives it more vibrant and modulated finish that for one takes care of the faded look while using it as an highlight.
Hi mate, yes, of course - I bought it just for this video, because I know how much some of you like that range! Now I am donating it to my school club, as I only use acrylics there, for safety reasons! We have 3 other VMC bottles (one from the steel spoons test), and in fact we just used them to undercoat a bunch of scenery pieces - because I already taught them how to use chipping effects! 😎 Hope you enjoyed the video!
@@TheRaceForTerra just to note, there is a Tamiya retarder but I suspect it'd only be useful for its own line of acrylic hybrid - not like the 100% lacquers =/ I got it to do mostly touch ups and it's definitely solvent based. It might be worth investigating?
Good point, no, it works with both. I used to use Tamiya Lacquer Thinner w/retarder all the time, remember? Many people buy the regular and add the retarder separately.
Hi, Sbeaber, I have used Tamiya X-12 quite a lot, ironically mostly with a brush, which works terrible in general, but I use it only to pick up details like Imperial Eagles on the Custodes - quite like it for that. I also own a gold LP lacquer my Tamiya, but it's for car models, and the flake is way too large for miniature painting.
Excellent question, deliriation! Simply put, it has: a) become my new favorite airbrush, and b) opened my eyes to the fact that double action, trigger airbrushes are probably better for most people except airbrush artists. With the 3 nozzle sizes that come with it (0.3, 0.5, 0.7), it is far from an airbrush "for priming". I own 8 airbrushes from 4 different brands, including H&S...and this is the number 1 airbrush I would recommend to any scale modeller or miniature painter. If you like, you can use the code TheRaceForTerra010 for 10% off.
Use rapid thinner for metallics, not levelling. It makes the flakes settle better and gives a better sheen. Also you complain about a satin finish but you're using a matte basecoat. Switch to gloss black.
Thanks for the tip, will give it a try. As for the satin finish, I did not complain - I said clearly in the conclusions that the brand tells you to you the gloss black base.
![แฉกลโกงงานวัด 2024 [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.106 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/taC5dpP3HXA/mqdefault.jpg)
A huge thank you to markie7465 for the idea behind this video and for your kind words of encouragement! It’s always heartwarming to hear from subscribers like you, and your feedback truly keeps me motivated to create.
For those of you who might have ideas or specific topics you’d love to see covered, joining my Patreon is a great way to make it happen! My Patrons on Discord not only help shape the channel by suggesting video ideas, but they also get to bounce ideas around with me and the amazing Race for Terra community. It’s a collaborative space where your voice has a direct impact.
That said, I’m incredibly grateful for every single one of you here-whether you’re a subscriber, a Patreon supporter, or just someone who enjoys the content. Thank you for being part of this journey. 💬 Let me know what you think of this video in the comments!
Ive been seeing ammo more and more, glad to see someone use it that application is really impressive
Thank you very much, derianardor! I use many of their products, and most of them are great!
Do you think running a bit of pure solvent through the airbrush before going with a solvent-based enamel paint would make it flow more smoothly from the start and help reduce clogs?
Good question, and yes, definitely! Always part of my cleaning routine - I use AK Xtreme Cleaner, highly recommended
Excellent work 👍👍
Thank you kindly, Dyifireking!
I can't lie, I might have yelped a bit when I saw the video pop up on my TH-cam home page. haha... Thank you SO so much for doing this video. As always, it was absolutely fantastic!!! Your entire channel is a wealth of tips, tricks, and knowledge to help us modellers, and I can't thank you enough for sharing.
Have you tried the Mr. Color's Rapid thinner? If you have, have you noticed any difference between it and the levelling thinner in results with metallic colours? I have both, and I actually tried adding a bit to Alclad's pale gold and it gave a very impressive and realistic metal finish.
Hahah, I knew I was forgetting something, markie! Dammit, I wanted to say you were my inspiration for this video - will make a comment of it and post it! Very happy you liked it, mate, and again thank you for your kind words. It has been rather demoralizing for me to see many videos where I invested 10-20 hours of work to perform really poorly on YT in the last 2 years, and comments like yours make it all worth it. Have not tried MRC Rapid Thinner, no, but happy to try it next. At the risk of sounding cheeky, are you aware that I have a Patreon and a Discord server? I think you would enjoy the community - send me an email and if you like, you can join for free, then you decide what to do 😉.
Really Thank you for this! Does the ammo of mig paint goes well on brush or do you recomend other paint?
You are very welcome! I’m afraid only the Vallejo one can be applied by brush, however.
@TheRaceForTerra Im impressed with ammo of mig paint. Is easy to get here but even like that only in january Im going to get it. Again thank you for all this!
Anytime, mate! I appreciate folks like you, who are polite, constructive, and ask good questions. 👍
@@TheRaceForTerra Im a kind of long time fan of your channel and your amazing tips. Due to you, night shift, grimdark compendium and other persons on Instagram i discover my style of painting and i am improving on it. Thank you!
How does the Mr Color and ammo brush paint on out of interest for anything like touching up models?
Hi FireandHonour, a good question, but one which 2 other people already asked below...I'm afraid they don't work well (or in my opinion, at all) with the brush. Sorry!
most of my paint choices tend to be more by what's available to me, so I like both Alclad and Vallejo. Sometimes I can get Mr Color/Hobby etc for an ok price - it's nice how long all of these paints will last you as well! I tend to use the Vallejo for brushing, rather than airbrushing because it's such a lovely paint and acrylic.Now - please go and find us a decent copper that isn't too red, isn't actually just bronze or some other version thereof! LOL
How absurd - YT "held" your comment as if it were inappropriate or something! I literally found it by coincidence. Yes, availability is of course a factor - I've been limited in how many Japanese paints I can get, for example. As for copper or bronze, that could easily be my next...spoons video. How about that? 😉
@@TheRaceForTerra how weird, not sure what word could have triggered it lol but yeah please more spoons :D
@@M0U53B41TTH-cam thought your acrylic now bit with the full stop between wax a link, which automatically triggers the spam filters I expect.
Have you thought about trying Vince Venturella's gold recipe? It is a blend of acrylics with some pigment powder. I have used it myself but only with a brush. I think it's quite comparable to your Mr. Color/Ammo result. I honestly don't know if pigment powders can work through an airbrush or not, but if it is possible it would be nice to see a test against Mr. Color and Ammo. As I don't have fumes extraction to spray lacquers and enamels.
unfortunately in my experience it can clog the airbrush easier - that may be entirely on me however - but also, I don't tend to use the Vallejo metals with my airbrush, only lacquer/enamels. Dry tip and clogs literally drove me into buying an extrator hood (sp) and just to note it's well worth it imo if you want to airbrush metals in particular
Thanks for the suggestion, but yeah, I think the answer below from MOUS5B4IT is spot-on. I have seen Vince’s video on this, but: a) I don’t think the finish is as good or can physically be given how fine the atomization of these paints was (his photography is rather crude, as awesome as the channel is, so it’s hard to tell). Also, that would surely clog the airbrush like there’s no tomorrow - even if it was absolutely amazing, I would still prioritize ease of use and quality of experience. Warning - even if you only spray water-based acrylic paints, without an extractor, you are putting your health at risk. Please be careful, and let me know if you need info on this.
@@M0U53B41T thanks for your reply. I thought it might be the case where pigments will not be suitable for airbrushing. I am still looking for a good extraction fan for my spray booth, but the ones available to me are too weak imo to take out fumes. They are all about 187m3/hr (110cfm) flow rate for a 100mm/4" fan.
@@TheRaceForTerra thanks for your reply also. I am using a respirator mask with good filters ofc so thanks for caring about our health. It's unfortunate that recipe wouldn't probably work. I already experience a lot of tip dry and clogging just with normal acrylic so adding pigment powder may be a disaster. As I have said I have used it with a brush and it looks good but I do get brushstrokes showing. I have a galatus and telemon that I want to paint someday, but I am still waiting for telemon weapons to come back in stock so I will wait longer
But that’s for acrylics. Solvents and lacquers will be better in every way to them
Just wondering, what needle size do you typically use for painting? I tend to get a lot of clogging using a .35 at 20-25 psi, even when thinned properly. Not sure if its from a lower quality compressor, or poor technique.
Excellent question! I always mention needle size at the start of each video segment where I airbrush, and normally I put it on screen with the materials also, so to you can go back and check for specific paints if you like. Having said that, the question remains a very important one, like I said! The sweet spot for me has always been 0.5mm, first with my Patriot, and now with the Swallowtail - with pressure always around 20 psi. Smaller needles only make sense when applying effects (e.g. shading) or painting details. I would strongly recommend getting a 0.5 needle airbrush - this is likely to make the EXPERIENCE more enjoyable for you, which I think is key. Can I mention the fact that I have a 10% discount code for all Gaahleri products…? 😇
This might seem like an idea out of left field, but have tried experimenting with guild paints? Meant for making spot repairs on vases, fridges and other objects, sounds insane, but I've picked one up for use on a third party fantasy mini (thinned down, of course), for a test run, after I've cleared my slate of models.
Hi Rutgaur, do you mean "GILD" without the U? They look quite interesting, I must say, but it's a UK brand without distribution in Europe, by the looks of it. In any case, "left-field" is what this channel is all about, and thanks for the idea!
@TheRaceForTerra Hi, I meant paints specifically formulated for repairs as I mentioned about above. They should be sold state side, I'm racking my brain for a specific brand that might be available: try Gild Lane and see what you think as they are what I picked up.
How would you highlight these paints? Or do you even and just let the paint reflect?
Hi Roboute, great question, but you answered it yourself. I only highlighted the Imperial Eagle on these, using Tamiya X-12 thinned with IPA and applied with a small synthetic brush. On Dreadnoughts and infantry I also highly eagles and stuff like that, same method. Otherwise, "just let the paint reflect", like you said, of course with contrast increased significantly through the use of oil washes and airbrush post-shading. Both of these methods were used with the Pallas, which I didn't show in the videos mostly because I don't want to bore people by showing always the same steps.
@ Thank you for the response.
I’m only just stepping into this style of painting with these highly reflective metals. Gonna have to give them a try.
@@robouteguilliman6662 Any time! You won't be disappointed if you try them. Bear in mind I use them for infantry also - never made any videos about them because with my setup recording how I paint infantry is a huge pain, but it works just as well.
@ That was my plan too until I can get some vehicles. Never really liked the more common ranges of gold and the harder stuff looks incredible.
I was thinking of undercoating with a brown/burnt sienna for shadows too.
Currently have a 8000 point heresy Custodes army still in grey plastic and resin haven’t attempted to paint yet as I have been struggling to find a gold shade that I like can you show any of the infantry models you have painted with this method of gold please
Sure thing, but it might have to wait until early January - don’t have any good pics of them, and I’m traveling tomorrow. You’re welcome to remind me in a few weeks - been meaning to do an army showcase anyway!
@ will do thanks
I like you added the vallejo one. It is my gold of choice; being acrylic. And They Brian really well too, while you won’t think so if you see the praint consistency. Yet, I don’t really know why they chose to make this faded more grey gold over a more yellow finish. Personally, using it in combination with and over a base coat of Vallejo copper gives it more vibrant and modulated finish that for one takes care of the faded look while using it as an highlight.
Hi mate, yes, of course - I bought it just for this video, because I know how much some of you like that range! Now I am donating it to my school club, as I only use acrylics there, for safety reasons! We have 3 other VMC bottles (one from the steel spoons test), and in fact we just used them to undercoat a bunch of scenery pieces - because I already taught them how to use chipping effects! 😎 Hope you enjoyed the video!
Ah new gold rush! Har!
😀 Should have thought of that for one of the titles!
How is Mr Colour when used out the pot with a brush?
I’m afraid will perform poorly - lacquers are not meant to be applied by hand.
@ I was hoping you were going to say the opposite, I need a good bright gold. I find the Vallejo one to green.
@@wingwalker007I know - but Scale75 has a brilliant range of different holds - great for brush painting
@@TheRaceForTerra just to note, there is a Tamiya retarder but I suspect it'd only be useful for its own line of acrylic hybrid - not like the 100% lacquers =/ I got it to do mostly touch ups and it's definitely solvent based. It might be worth investigating?
Good point, no, it works with both. I used to use Tamiya Lacquer Thinner w/retarder all the time, remember? Many people buy the regular and add the retarder separately.
How is Tamiya?
Hi, Sbeaber, I have used Tamiya X-12 quite a lot, ironically mostly with a brush, which works terrible in general, but I use it only to pick up details like Imperial Eagles on the Custodes - quite like it for that. I also own a gold LP lacquer my Tamiya, but it's for car models, and the flake is way too large for miniature painting.
So how are you liking your Swallowtail? I am thinking of grabbing one myself
Excellent question, deliriation! Simply put, it has: a) become my new favorite airbrush, and b) opened my eyes to the fact that double action, trigger airbrushes are probably better for most people except airbrush artists. With the 3 nozzle sizes that come with it (0.3, 0.5, 0.7), it is far from an airbrush "for priming". I own 8 airbrushes from 4 different brands, including H&S...and this is the number 1 airbrush I would recommend to any scale modeller or miniature painter. If you like, you can use the code TheRaceForTerra010 for 10% off.
Try using a metallic thinner for your gold.
Use rapid thinner for metallics, not levelling. It makes the flakes settle better and gives a better sheen. Also you complain about a satin finish but you're using a matte basecoat. Switch to gloss black.
Thanks for the tip, will give it a try. As for the satin finish, I did not complain - I said clearly in the conclusions that the brand tells you to you the gloss black base.
My apologies then. I wrote the comment halfway through the gold comparison, without hearing that part. Hope the tip comes in useful.
@@mikoajniedziela7383 Very useful, and no apologies needed. Regards, Enrique