Just make sure to give it lots of time to drop from that 4.25amps. Allow it up to 20 minutes. Also, disturbing your multimeter leads or connections will obviously upset and reset the electronics that are drawing that 4.25 amps and start the cycle again.
was useful to me! i just diagnosed the same problem. 120mA - fuse 49. Do you know if the amplifier is really needed to get some radio working? I'm tempted to live without putting back a fuse in.
Glad to hear the video helped you. Unfortunately you will have no sound whatsoever without the amplifier. I remember not having it plugged in, and causing that. If you clever with electrical work, you could probably bypass the amp, but if you disconnect it or remove power, I believe you will have no sound whatsoever.
Does it matter if the car is locked/unlocked or if you have a door open? Seems like you would need to lock it to let those modules enter sleep but you need access to the car's interior for the fuses, or will waiting for an hour let the modules go to sleep regardless?
Yes you definitely need the doors closed in order for everything to shut off. Windows can be down though. I carefully climbed in through the window to get access to the fuse panel to narrow down where the draw was coming from. You could also wait inside the car and have the multimeter on the window. And to be clear, car can remain unlocked.
@@shaunflynn7301 cool, I hope you get it figured out! I was just thinking about this, but maybe instead of closing the passenger door, just close the door latch with a screwdriver. That will make the car think it’s closed. When you are ready to close that door, squeeze the door handle and pop that latch before you do so. Waaay better than crawling through that window, lol,
@@denzelcrocker4956 I don’t remember bothering. I’m just going off memory here, but there was no hood light, and even with the hood ajar, it shouldn’t affect the modules going to sleep after 30mins to an hour.
@ is that 0.090 amps? Otherwise you mean 90ma? That’s just a touch high but that’s really not that bad. I would hope to see, for any car, the current to drop to 0.050 amps (50ma) or less. But 0.090? I’d wait a bit longer to see if it drops any further. Remember, if you disturb your connections, it will reset everything and the process will start all over.
@@denzelcrocker4956ammeter clamps are a little inaccurate when it comes to really low current flow like that. I’d encourage you do the same test but with the leads inline. Be careful not to blow the fuse in your multimeter. Most are only 10 amps, some 15. But given what you’ve told me, it sounds like you’re doing ok as far as parasitic draws go. Just try the same test with the leads.
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Working on a 2009 R56 and it seems to be holding at that 4.25 amp. Hoping that it will drop down. Pulled fuse’s and relays, no drop in draw.
Just make sure to give it lots of time to drop from that 4.25amps. Allow it up to 20 minutes. Also, disturbing your multimeter leads or connections will obviously upset and reset the electronics that are drawing that 4.25 amps and start the cycle again.
was useful to me! i just diagnosed the same problem. 120mA - fuse 49.
Do you know if the amplifier is really needed to get some radio working? I'm tempted to live without putting back a fuse in.
Glad to hear the video helped you. Unfortunately you will have no sound whatsoever without the amplifier. I remember not having it plugged in, and causing that. If you clever with electrical work, you could probably bypass the amp, but if you disconnect it or remove power, I believe you will have no sound whatsoever.
Does it matter if the car is locked/unlocked or if you have a door open?
Seems like you would need to lock it to let those modules enter sleep but you need access to the car's interior for the fuses, or will waiting for an hour let the modules go to sleep regardless?
Yes you definitely need the doors closed in order for everything to shut off. Windows can be down though. I carefully climbed in through the window to get access to the fuse panel to narrow down where the draw was coming from. You could also wait inside the car and have the multimeter on the window. And to be clear, car can remain unlocked.
@@tadsworkshop thanks for the quick reply! About to try this on my R55 which is showing CC-ID 415 "increased battery discharge"
@@shaunflynn7301 cool, I hope you get it figured out! I was just thinking about this, but maybe instead of closing the passenger door, just close the door latch with a screwdriver. That will make the car think it’s closed. When you are ready to close that door, squeeze the door handle and pop that latch before you do so.
Waaay better than crawling through that window, lol,
How did you get the car thinking, that the hood is closed???
@@denzelcrocker4956 I don’t remember bothering. I’m just going off memory here, but there was no hood light, and even with the hood ajar, it shouldn’t affect the modules going to sleep after 30mins to an hour.
I found Out, that my navigation drained the battery. Now it is at 0,09 on my clamp. Is that good? Or still top much?
@ is that 0.090 amps? Otherwise you mean 90ma? That’s just a touch high but that’s really not that bad. I would hope to see, for any car, the current to drop to 0.050 amps (50ma) or less. But 0.090? I’d wait a bit longer to see if it drops any further. Remember, if you disturb your connections, it will reset everything and the process will start all over.
@@tadsworkshop the Clamp measures in A. So i would guess 90mA.
I waited an additional 1 Hour on the car and it stayed the same
@@denzelcrocker4956ammeter clamps are a little inaccurate when it comes to really low current flow like that. I’d encourage you do the same test but with the leads inline. Be careful not to blow the fuse in your multimeter. Most are only 10 amps, some 15. But given what you’ve told me, it sounds like you’re doing ok as far as parasitic draws go. Just try the same test with the leads.