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Yea I suppose I should have!

Yea that is my baby. Suzuki was a project I sold some time ago.

True, I’ve done a few and can get it swapped pretty quick.

Maybe next week, but likely 2 more weeks. I will put a video out advertising when.

I cannot say for certain. I would think so but I would contact G&R Imports, they do rebuild on many engines and would have more knowledge. Good luck.

It was a rebuild kit off Ebay. Not an offshore kit, it was made in the USA. Other parts were bought as needed from dealer.

Can you please provide a link or name of the kit I will really appreciate it thanks

No. I’ve tried the no lift shift and I don’t like it. It is cool but I prefer old school. Thanks for the comments.

I’m not sure you need to remove the axle to remove the oil pan. Been awhile though. Does it have the pins or internal circlips holding the axle? You will have to remove the upper shock bolt to get the lower control arm to go low enough to slide axle out. Support lower control arm with jack when you remove that bolt.

@@turnbullgarage88 I’m not really sure how to tell if it has pins or the internal circlips. I took a picture of it, but can’t send it here

@@dylanschaefer9799 Email it to me. Turnbullgarage88@gmail.com

Thanks for the comments. Car is bone stock other than cage and brake fluid. Was running a new set of Cup2’s. Mach 1 is twice the car my 2015 GT was, well a lot better for sure. No fade at all, probably could have pushed harder. I am considering a chatterbox to talk to wife it’s hard with wind noise, really have to yell.

@@turnbullgarage88 Really did not expect you'd be happy for that long with the stock brake pads. I have that on mine, but have a set of rather agressive Hawk DTC70/DTC60 race pads on standby. I may try my 1st track in this car (M1 HP) on stock pads + fresh fluid based on your valuable input after a few track days. We have the same driving style so this should work while I '"learn" this car's dynamics. I bought a second set of Ford Performance HP wheels for dry track tires, and original HP wheels for street/wet track days. Went with GoodYear SuperCar 3R and Conti Extreme Contact Sport 02 tires respectively (100TW and 340TW). Up'ed the rear sizes from 315/30 to 325/30 on both. Heard your comment on the limited 2.75* camber up front on stock HP camber plates. Wondering if the special Steeda drill bit to enlarge the strut hole would work with our stock plates, or aftermarket is a must ... Did you get an alignment done with plates full-in and full-out to see what the resulting Toe settings are? I am considering getting a compromise toe adjustment, sitting in between the two extremes camber settings myself. The Ford M1 HP supplement manual states 0.1* toe for either street and track, but toe changes as we shift our camber plates around ...

@dcaron9999 I have found Hawk pads to be too harsh on rotors. I have a set of used Carbotech front pads, those were great. All that said, I still have braking “in reserve” when I went a little too hot into a corner. The factory pads to perform well. I didn’t do an alignment when I used the factory camber plate stops. I may get camber bolts for the upper strut bolt. I have not don’t research on that yet.

No clue really. I ran ATV tires that are DOT approved to 50mph. They seemed really good. The open differentials are the weak point for 4x4 driving. A dif lock will be a huge help.

You are so right. Hardest part in these is getting the transmission in and out. The transmission itself is easy.

Unfortunately no.

Yes I did, to have more amps for the lighting and winch.

Still working. Mind you car is stored for winter, so not used daily.

Ok cheers. I must be unlucky then. Some have only lasted a few hours!

Some parts were direct from my local Ford dealer. The main kit was a US manufactured package off EBay.

There is a notch on the cam sprocket that lines up with a notch in the plastic cam cover (rear cover). B or F means nothing.

You might just have to rotate crank one revolution to get the marks to line up.

Ok thank you, did you by any chance count how much this total rebuilt cost you?

@enkomusic4063 typically around $2000 with all parts and machining required. Mine was a full rebuild, if no machining it would be around $500 less. That is in Canadian currency.

It does sound pretty cool.

Truth be known, I bought cheaper mounts and the rubber seems harder and the engine vibration is a bit worse. Hoping it gets a bit better over time. The shifter definitely doesn’t bounce around like it did , so the rear mount was definitely in need of replacing. Thanks for watching.

@@turnbullgarage88 Thank you for the update! that is very helpful.

Thanks for the video. I’m getting ready to do this myself. This definitely helped me plan to allot more time to this than I originally expected.

Which washers do you mean, behind that retaining clip on the end of the axle?

@@turnbullgarage88 I got em. The conical washers that hold the plate that covers the c clip to remove the axle. In your video one second they’re on the next they’re off. Just was t sure how to get them. For anyone wondering a nut on threads and a few good wacks with the hammer gets them off.

@@dogmoo they just popped out, think we tapped them lightly from the side. It was a long time ago, so not 100% sure, sorry. I do know they were not stuck in any way.

@@turnbullgarage88 yeah no worries I figured if you ran into the issue I had you would have said something. It’s all good. Theres a video of an old land cruiser with the same conical washers that had the same problem. Pretty straight forward I just needed a go, no go incase there was something I was missing

You’re welcome, they are a lot of fun. I’m currently selling my 2002 Suzuki Carry 4X4

Yea those are very cool.

I’m not planning on removing tow hook. Other work is getting in the way of this project but it will happen.

Amazon!

That’s awesome. Thanks for watching, hope they covered everything you needed. Starter overhaul video coming soon.

Some would agree, some would not. Much more reliable engine than the GT350, which is what I wanted.

I get my parts from Proline Part (minitruckgarage.com) and G&R Imports.

Hey, really novice question here. As I said, I am looking at the possibility of rebuilding the engine on my 1990 Sambar 4WD KS4. I've found the right parts schematic for my model year and configuration. They list a 0.25 and 0.50 oversize piston ring set. Is this only known after measuring the bore hole after taking it all apart or is this known what size piston ring set I need beforehand.@@turnbullgarage88

@@TheRyanpeel It's a good question. I had to go 50 over due to the terrible rust in the cylinders, it was deep. If it is just normal wear in a running engine, I would go with 0.25 over. All that said, to be safe I would measure the bores once it is opened up and order them then. 0.25mm is only 0.010", that is 0.005" per side. So if there any gouges over 0.0005" deep in a cylinder you will need to go .50 oversize.

I don’t know the part number, but if you contact Todd at Minitruck Garage he can help you out. Tell him Turnbull Garage sent you.

I went to a good PDR person here. He said it would still be noticeable with the clearcoat after. It is getting resprayed after my upcoming track day.

Yup!

That is odd for sure.

Not really, just a custom made box to fit in spare tire space. Measured and gave it to sheet metal guy. Thanks.