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Yes you should be able to do this fairly easily with some modification to the code. For the : you can simply use 2 segments vertically that connect to both the adjacent digits.

The code and everything you need to make this project can be found in the link in the description as with all the projects!

Yes that's for sure a great option as well!

I have not tested it with the newer version, but you can try. However, you don't need to install the new version of WLED for the 4 digit display, the WLED version used is within the project repo.

@@ProjectsWithRed Thank you

That is strange, I just opened them in Bambu studio and they opened with no issues. Try re-downloading the files, if you still have a problem, please let me know and I will add the stl file versions. Regarding the Fusion 360 design, you have come at a perfect time! In the up coming weeks, I will be making a video announcing that you can purchase the F360 files and possibly the project itelf as well. Out of curiosity how much would you be happy to pay for the Fusion 360 design?

@@ProjectsWithRed I would think perhaps USD $20-$25 would be a reasonable price. You could certainly charge more, but if the price went much higher I would likely model it myself from scratch. (Although I think your connector design is ingenious, and it would certainly take some experimenting to replicate that myself.) (By the way: I switched to a different WiFi network and the downloaded files opened in Bambu Studio with no problem.)

Thanks for that, I will keep this in mind. That's weird! But glad it now works.

You can keep the same segment design, however, just make corner pieces that attach to the segments that will allow you to connect the segments in a way to create triangles, hexagons, or any shape that is not supported by the 45-angle connections. Regarding the Fusion design, I have not been sharing those files in my projects, however, a question if you don't mind answering, would you be interested in paying a small fee to obtain them? I have seen this done with other creators and something I am looking into.

​@@ProjectsWithRed I am still tinkering with different ideas for the segments and mixing them with other shapes and figuring out ways to connect the segments. Having the Fusion design might help (and yes, I don't mind paying a few Euro for this). I am still not sure how to combine these segments with other shapes. Playing with a few paper models, the 45-angles seems to limit me too much in my design. I may end up with a combination of hexagons and 30-angle segments combined with a few pentagons or triangles. Still, I need to connect the segments and I also love the cable routing on the back. On more complex design this allows to add extra cables to route from one branch to the next.

Did you calibrate before running it for the first time?

It is not currently on sale, but I am planning to provide the option to purchase the projects as a kit. I have a question that I would appreciate if you can answer, how much would you be happy to pay for this project as a kit shipped to you?

@ProjectsWithRed I my self am comfortable about $200.

I have a small side business the requires me to cut 16gaue wire into exact length pieces multiple times. Doing it by hand i not fun not is it accurate

Part 2 for this project will unfortunately not be coming out anytime soon, and the next project will be something different. However, if you are interested in making this into an AI project and making the car drive autonomously, all that work has been thoroughly documented in the link below as part of my master's thesis, including a research paper which explains it all in detail and how you can do it yourself. github.com/RedaAlb/auto-rc-car

@ProjectsWithRed I'm sorry I did not expect the response and I hope you are doing well it's been a long time since you uploaded.

@@kayezero703 I have been doing well thanks for asking! I have just not had a chance to work on new projects, I will be making a return soon!

Hello Andrew! That sounds like a great project! It would be very similar to this project, you will just have 2 digits instead of 4. An ESP32 was used for the micro-controller as it provides wireless connectivity built-in, which was required for the phone connection to control the lights. However, if you don't need a wireless (WiFi) connection, you can go with pretty much any micro-controller or a Raspberry Pi. Something to keep in mind regarding the Raspberry Pi in your case, since you want it portable, the Pi current consumption is very high compared to a micro-controller, but could work if you want to use it in short time e.g. few hours before needing to recharge. I would only recommend to use the Raspberry Pi if it's not possible to use a micro-controller or you have specific processing needs that can only happen in a Pi. Regarding the power source, a LiPo rechargeable battery is a great choice. Get one with the highest mAh that you can fit in your case for maximum battery life if that is important. There is an "S" number for each lipo battery that will determine the voltage output of the battery, this does not matter too much, but choose one that is higher than the required voltage for your project, and use a step down converter to convert the voltage down to the required amount. I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any further questions.

What is the problem

It works with stranded wires but not as good as solid core wires. You just have to be a bit more careful with the stripping depth.

sorted, was trying to upload a wrong sketch lol

You can modify this project to meet your needs, you just need to change what is mounted on the sharpener side and how the wood is mounted.

1.5mm diameter wire will go through the spring mechanism 👍

You can strip and cut in increments of millimeters.

@@ProjectsWithRed он может зачистить 4 миллиметра?

Use more heavy duty blades, or add more support to the blades so they don't bend as much when cutting.

did it work? I will build this machine to cut 24 awg stranded wires and strip too let me know thank you

@@misterflouss5061 Yeah, the new blades made the biggest of differences

@@Parris2000can you send me the name of the blade you bought?

blades are from Knipex

Make sure you start the motors at the exact same height.

50V should be good since it's on a 12V rail.

@@ngiaoci2564 Thanks

@ngiaoci2564 I see you helping people out in the comments, that's good stuff! I appreciate it

You can try using different blades or make a stronger base and blade attachment. As a temporary solution, you could squeeze the blade supports together as it cuts. You can also 3D print one of the blade holders at an offset.

@@ProjectsWithRed Thanks for reply! I've been trying to squeeze it together with a little bit offset, no luck. Is it possible that these blades for knipex tool are not intended for cutting action? It does perfect job for stripping. Maybe you have a suggestion for different blades?

@@karolisk63Im having the same issue! What was your solution?

@@Parris2000 Fixed it with a pair of SWT508 220 machine blades from aliexpress, had to modify top and the bottom blade holder and it works perfectly.

@@karolisk63 do you have a link to the aliexpress ? Thanks.

You can do without it, but it's recommended with a capacitor. It just helps with keeping the voltage more consistent and stable.

They can be found in the video description 😉

Yes you can

It should be a very similar setup as in this project, but just be careful to have the correct voltage conversions for the LEDs and the micro-controller.

These are great ideas! Well spotted, the deflection causes problems when cutting wires that are larger than 18AWG, which is the max size wire I recommend for this machine to cut.

​@@ProjectsWithRed Thanks, I ordered some parts for the core of the device, excluding multiple spools for now, but I revised my plan for multiple extruders. I'm planning to use some continuous rotation micro servos as intermediary extruders for each spool which will take each wire to and from the main extruder when needed. This way will reduce cost even more so you only need one stepper extruder. Then get a PCA9685 for up to 16 spools and a CD74HC4067 for sensors located before each tube in the combiner so we know when the main line is clear to the stepper extruder for the next wire to feed. That's the plan as I have it so far anyway. Thanks for the inspiration!

​@@ProjectsWithRed Oh, and I just posted a short of a wire twister I designed yesterday that you might be interested in. I think it pairs great with this stripper system.

@@Ivan.Wright This is great to hear! I would love to see the final project if possible, good luck!

I will unfortunately not be making a video about that, but it would be fairly easy to modify this project to get this done.

What error are you getting? If possible post an issue regarding this in the GitHub repository 👍🏼.

@@ProjectsWithRed bro I had posted the issue of code check plss

No sensors were used. You can use another component for the wire feeding, it just needs to have high accuracy to control the length of the wire, unless you use a different method.