This is really amazing - I love how you've thought of everything, cable management, how the modules connect to each other and even wireless control. Your channel is really great and I hope more and more people see your content. Keep up the great work!
Nice project, though I'd advice you to change the inter-segment connectors pinout. In its current view it is critical to connect them in a proper orientation and in case of mistake something will be fried. However, if you make the central pin a 5V power line nothing will be fried if the connection is flipped. In case of mistake data line will be connected to ground, which would not lead to hardware damage. Just check how they do it in servos which also often use 3 pin connectors.
That's a great idea! However there might be a slight issue with it, when connecting the wires from the LED strip to the dupont connector, the red wire will have to cross one of the other wires to go to the middle socket of the dupont connector, which will cause a bit of tangling and potentially make it harder to route the wires. Nonetheless, that is for sure a way that it can be done, I like the idea! Remember to subscribe if you haven't already, you are the type of people I especially want to be part of this community (which will at some point... eventually... be big... haha).
Your project is really fantastic, I can't wait to do it! Is it possible to share the files in fusion360 format? Because I'd like to change the depth to make a shelf.
That's absolutely amazing to hear! For feedback if I may ask, what is the one thing you like about the videos, and one thing that you don't like about the videos? It would be very appreciated if you answer this, as it will help me make better videos 👍🏼. I really appreciate the comment!
@@ProjectsWithRed I love all the projects you do and how well you explain how to build them. I didn't see anything bad about this video or any previous videos. Just keep doing what you're doing!
@@ProjectsWithRed it's very easy for me to understand how to make it, what I'm confused about is making the nanoleaf box, did you make it yourself, is the nanoleaf box on the online market?
I found a roll of material that works great as a defuser. It is at Lowe's and called a shelf liner. It is 16" wide and has a decent thickness. It is originally used to line shelfs for your closet. It is under $15 for a 16"x8' sheet.
Hi there! Saw this on Hackaday, and I was thinking of doing something like this but with a separate MCU module. But this looks fantastic, and it looks like something I can scale to a smaller 7-segment display clock.
This is the exact video I was looking for. Really great explanation & love how you thought about every small detail. Going to make it tomorrow. Subscribed & following for more awesome content. With love from India 🇮🇳 ♥️
How much strip do you need for the full 4 digit display? Also how much fillament was used ,and what is the average time to print one segment, hopefully this will fit on the bed of an ender 3
An LED strip needs to be roughly 15cm long in a segment, so for a 4-digit display which is made up of 28 segments, you will need an LED strip that is at least 15*28 = 420 cm long. So you can get an LED strip that is 5 meters long. A segment is made up two 3D printed parts, the housing and the lid, both are roughly 76 grams of filament. The average print time for the housing and lid is 2.5 hours each. In a 23x23cm bed side, I was able to fit 3 housing/lid parts. I hope this answers all your questions, let me know if you have further questions. I also just added the 3D print settings in the project repository in case you need it 👍🏼.
Hi à got a question regarding your click project. Do you know a website where could do those 3D printings for an affordable price? Great video by the way and great projects! Thank you 🙏
Awesome project, thanks for putting it together! Did you have any issues with the LEDs sometimes flickering between color changes? It could just be that the jumper cables I'm using to test the components are 26 awg and kind of long. Should this fix itself when I set everything up with 20awg wires, or did you need to use a level shifter / something else?
Thanks! I didn't use any level shifter or voltage booster. I don't think changing the wire gauge will do much in this case, I would suggest looking into your power supply, check what the max current output is and ensure it is rated for 12V.
Hi, awesome video and awesome design. My son (14) would lije to make a portable 2 digit laptime board. It needs to have 2 x 7-segmdnt digits which have a controller (Arduino or Raspberry Pi) and it will need to have a LiPo rechargeable battery and a way to recharge it. It should all fit in a portable protective carry case. Can you provide him some ideas, advice and some help with the rechargeable power source? I'd really appreciate your help to help my son. Kibd regards, Andrew
Hello Andrew! That sounds like a great project! It would be very similar to this project, you will just have 2 digits instead of 4. An ESP32 was used for the micro-controller as it provides wireless connectivity built-in, which was required for the phone connection to control the lights. However, if you don't need a wireless (WiFi) connection, you can go with pretty much any micro-controller or a Raspberry Pi. Something to keep in mind regarding the Raspberry Pi in your case, since you want it portable, the Pi current consumption is very high compared to a micro-controller, but could work if you want to use it in short time e.g. few hours before needing to recharge. I would only recommend to use the Raspberry Pi if it's not possible to use a micro-controller or you have specific processing needs that can only happen in a Pi. Regarding the power source, a LiPo rechargeable battery is a great choice. Get one with the highest mAh that you can fit in your case for maximum battery life if that is important. There is an "S" number for each lipo battery that will determine the voltage output of the battery, this does not matter too much, but choose one that is higher than the required voltage for your project, and use a step down converter to convert the voltage down to the required amount. I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any further questions.
Thank you! At the end, I just ended up making a small stripboard for a permanent solution and to make it take up a small footprint, no PCB was made. The stripboard uses the exact same wiring of the breadboard.
Hey, great Video I'm rather new to diy electronics, do you have a recommendation what type of 1000μF capacitor i should use? or does any 1000μF capacitor work?
@@ProjectsWithRed Sorry that i need to ask again, but how do you connect the powersupply to the board? Dont I need another thingy where i plug the power cable in?
i REALLY love this and wnat to take it and apply it to something im designing.. the biggest thing im interested in are the clips that lock them together. I got the stl file for them, but theyre SO tiny that my printer struggles to print them.. do you have any insight how to maybe enlarge it a little? also if you could possible point me where to look to learn how to get that channel that they fit into cut out in my surface, that would be AWESOME.
I am glad you like it! To print the small connectors that connects segments together, I have added the printing settings I used to print them to the repository. The main idea is to use as small as possible layer height and print as slow as possible. To enlarge them, I recommend scaling them up directly in Cura. To create the channel that they slide into, use the housing 3d model to get the dimensions needed. I recommend scaling them up only if you need to as they are surprisingly strong 👍🏼.
@@ProjectsWithRed Reason why I post a comment that you don’t mention in your description to your video that you using WLED project in your project. And I still can’t see you added to a description mentioning about WLED.
@@ProjectsWithRed thanks you! I ended up getting foam bord paper from the dollar store and cut them to shape. the light glow looked pretty good when I held them up to other LED strips that I have. ill end up putting them all together this weekend, I opted for the desk light version of the project.. thanks again for the great work.
I am printing out my first set of pieces for the clock! I noticed that I have leds that are 5v, not 12v. I assume this means I dont need the stepdown converter. How else would that change the wiring here? Like do I need the capacitor still?
That's awesome to hear! Yes you won't need the step down converter, as you can just power the ESP32 using the power supply directly. Apart from that there is only a few changes you need to make in the app such as setting the correct voltage, which if you follow the video, you will know what you need to change accordingly. I would still recommend the capacitor.
You are making great projects! Immediately subscribed ;) By the way, I've seen other types of segment displays that can not only show all the numbers, but also show any letters as well, try to search for it, maybe you'll have an idea on how to make segments for that type of display, it would be capable of showing any information on the wall, and you'd be able to make any word with those segments
Great Project, It amazes me ( after watching many many other 7-segment YT video's ) that there still is someone to come up with an original idea. Like this concept. Since I don't have a 3D printer , having the Lid/Housing etc printed by a 3D prints supplier for ONE single digit ( 7-segments ) would cost me 140 euro. So based on that fact : Q1: How easy would it be for you to have the scale adjusted to a 50% smaller size. It would also make the Height of a single digit : 20cm iso currently 40cm, I have made myself ( based upon other YT video's ) a 7Segment clock . But my segments are made out of cardboard. Have also various lamps build with WS2812B Leds an the excellent WLED app. But it was a big surprise for me that actually via WLED you can 'control' the 4 digits for HH:MM. So I will definitely investigate that in detail and try to copy it. Johan
I like your Video a lot. However, I would like it to be in one color (e.g. white, red or blue) and above all much smaller, with only 1 to a maximum of 3 LEDs (instead of 9) in one element of the 7-segment display. Could you maybe make a video about it?
Thanks for your video! This looks like a great project for my classroom. Has anyone added any additional features to further customize this project? I think it would be great to create a color change/flashing feature at the different times my students depart. It may also be valuable to create an audio alert to warn the students of their departure time. I am wondering if there are other ideas to add functionality to the project. Maybe the display could respond to a request through a smart assistant. For example, "Alexa, what is the current temperature?", could display the outdoor temperature. I can think of some other fun uses. Scores to the game of my favorite baseball team, etc. Has anyone doing anything similar?
Can you replace the acrylic by custom printed covers? Have you checked the proper screen thickness for the distance between the leds and the surface, so led "bulbs" are not noticeable?
You can for sure use 3D printed covers, but the glow effect might not be as great as the matte opal acrylic sheets. Yes I experimented with multiple heights and the one that gave the best glow effect and least printing material and time was chosen.
Any chance you have the acrylic measurements in a vector format? dxf, svg etc . I would prefer to cut them on my laser if possible.. If not, I can design it, but thought id consult you first :) thanks
If you are referring to selling this product commercially, please note that the license for this project is Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License. Please see repository link in the description for the full license. In summary, you are not able to use this project for commercial purposes if that is what you are asking about.
Hi, I would like to insert the 2 dots between 2 segments, which flash to mark the seconds, do you have the code for arduino? Or if you can give me an indication on how to do it? Thank you
I suggest taking some time to study the code in "WLED/usermods/NanoLeaf_Display/usermod_nanoleaf_display.h" where you can make your additions to control the 2 dots.
at 17:13 you say a small _____ board? sounded like step? couldnt quite hear it... Could you please explain this part a bit, so I can get that part. thanks
Can I ask one thing.. if possible please create triangles and hexagons using same interlocking system which can also pair up with these making it a much more customizable .. i don't know much about cad related stuff and i just bought a new 3d printer.. and this project blew my mind😊😊
I unfortunately will not be making any custom shapes for this project any time soon. However, I suggest learning the basics of 3D modelling and from there you can easily make any shape you want, while still using the interlocking system just by replicating the same method in your design. Thank you! I am glad that you like it.
It should be fairly straightforward, you just need to connect each new digit to the male end of the 4-digit display. In terms of the code, you need to change a few variables which are self-explanatory, for example, the "NUM_OF_SEGMENTS" variable will be 6*7=42 (6 digits, 7 segments each digit) rather than 4*7=28. Then you just need to study the code for a bit and see how you can manipulate it to control the 2 new digits, which should be fairly easy as I made sure the code is easily scalable.
I have problems to upload clock configured file to ESP32 board. I get error message "command 'platformio-ide.upload' not found". I have unistall PlatformIO and delete also folder PlatformIO and reinstall PlatfromIO, but still have some problems.
It is brilliant but cannot upload to ESP32 on Mac!!! There is no com1 or com2 Cannot use the clock By the way it does not work on pin 16 It works on pin 2
It doesn't have to be COM1 or COM2 etc. Use whatever name it is on the Mac. If that doesn't work, try removing the whole upload port line from the code and upload. It should detect your ESP32 automatically. Yes the pin will depend on the exact ESP32 you use 👍🏼.
@@newmexicojoe thanks for your response, I am now able to connect to wled. Also I have done all changes on led preferences. But only 1 digit of the entire clock is on, which is on the breadboard side. Rest 3 digit is off
Anyone else had the issue where the little connecting plate just slips out ? I can slide it down that channel, and when it reaches the bottom it just pops right out... i have 18 of each of the other parts printed, about to start the wiring :)
@@ProjectsWithRed They were all printed on the bambu x1.. quality is insanely good.. Either way, it works. im happy, and the electrical components arrive today... Never having done breadboard or much wiring at all, im a bit nervous haha
Great Project, i made some modifications to the 3D Printing parts since i printed it all in white and wanted to print it as complete part. 0,4mm height works fine and diffuses the light good. The Problem i have is, i can't install the usermod. I made all the steps described in the Video and on Github two times now, never worked for me. Right after opening the Project without doing any change i get the Error: [...] Invalid environment name 'codm-controller-0.6'. The name can contain alphanumeric, underscore, and hyphen characters (a-z, 0-9, -, _)", [...] I don't get where the Problem is, anybody with a similar issue and/or fix? Google didn't held :(
@@ProjectsWithRed Hey, thx for the reply. The fault appears right after i open the folder without selecting anything or setting anything up, just installed vsc and platformio then opened the folder. Because of the fault it does not build or Upload anything and underlines the First ; in platformio.ini. I copied an actual Version of the .ini and the fault was gone butthe upload didn't work also so I probably screwed something up during Copy/Paste 😅
@kinyanjuimartin7349 Yes, that is good question.! If you look carefully, it is connected across the 12volt rails. So I would use 25v or more. I think it is 100 uf.
@@ganbensie Did you clone/download the repository linked in the description? If you got the WLED repository from the original repo then the usermod will not be there. The repo in the description contains everything you need 👍🏼, including a modified WLED with the usermod.
Remember to subscribe for more epic projects! Comment below if there is a project you want me to make! :)
This is really amazing - I love how you've thought of everything, cable management, how the modules connect to each other and even wireless control. Your channel is really great and I hope more and more people see your content. Keep up the great work!
Thank you for that! I really appreciate it, it means a lot. It's great to have you here 👍🏼.
Nice project, though I'd advice you to change the inter-segment connectors pinout. In its current view it is critical to connect them in a proper orientation and in case of mistake something will be fried. However, if you make the central pin a 5V power line nothing will be fried if the connection is flipped. In case of mistake data line will be connected to ground, which would not lead to hardware damage. Just check how they do it in servos which also often use 3 pin connectors.
That's a great idea! However there might be a slight issue with it, when connecting the wires from the LED strip to the dupont connector, the red wire will have to cross one of the other wires to go to the middle socket of the dupont connector, which will cause a bit of tangling and potentially make it harder to route the wires. Nonetheless, that is for sure a way that it can be done, I like the idea! Remember to subscribe if you haven't already, you are the type of people I especially want to be part of this community (which will at some point... eventually... be big... haha).
Great Project. Scaleble, Creative, Sky is the limit ❤
Have you check if it work outdoors ? Is the bright enough?
Your project is really fantastic, I can't wait to do it!
Is it possible to share the files in fusion360 format? Because I'd like to change the depth to make a shelf.
Awesome! I wonder why you didn't submit a PR to the official WLED repo for the usermod?
Glad to see you're back!
Glad to see you here!
this deserves more views, i will subscribe to this channel
Thank you! Awesome
A good thing to do is to continue with the power cables inside your nanoleaf. If u do that the drop of power over each ledstrip will be minimal.
What a ingenious idea 👍👍👍😎
Great project! You are one of my favorite youtubers by far!
That's absolutely amazing to hear! For feedback if I may ask, what is the one thing you like about the videos, and one thing that you don't like about the videos? It would be very appreciated if you answer this, as it will help me make better videos 👍🏼. I really appreciate the comment!
@@ProjectsWithRed I love all the projects you do and how well you explain how to build them. I didn't see anything bad about this video or any previous videos. Just keep doing what you're doing!
@@benjaminfecci6138 This actually means a lot, thank you! 👍🏼
This is great. I subscribed 2 minutes into video. Going to head to your channel to check out the rest.
Awesome! I am glad to have you here part of a growing community, which hopefully will get bigger and bigger!
this is so cool , i want to have it to decorate my room
I highly recommend making this project. It looks even better in real life!
@@ProjectsWithRed it's very easy for me to understand how to make it, what I'm confused about is making the nanoleaf box, did you make it yourself, is the nanoleaf box on the online market?
Fumbled upon this vid but I'm glad it happened! Loved it. A quick one however, if I'm using 5V LEDs, do I still need the capacitor?
You can do without it, but it's recommended with a capacitor. It just helps with keeping the voltage more consistent and stable.
I found a roll of material that works great as a defuser. It is at Lowe's and called a shelf liner. It is 16" wide and has a decent thickness. It is originally used to line shelfs for your closet. It is under $15 for a 16"x8' sheet.
Good stuff!
Hi there! Saw this on Hackaday, and I was thinking of doing something like this but with a separate MCU module. But this looks fantastic, and it looks like something I can scale to a smaller 7-segment display clock.
Amazing project , subscribed !
Awesome! Glad to have you here!
This is the exact video I was looking for. Really great explanation & love how you thought about every small detail. Going to make it tomorrow. Subscribed & following for more awesome content. With love from India 🇮🇳 ♥️
That's awesome to hear!
Great video mate, just subscribed!
How much strip do you need for the full 4 digit display?
Also how much fillament was used ,and what is the average time to print one segment, hopefully this will fit on the bed of an ender 3
An LED strip needs to be roughly 15cm long in a segment, so for a 4-digit display which is made up of 28 segments, you will need an LED strip that is at least 15*28 = 420 cm long. So you can get an LED strip that is 5 meters long.
A segment is made up two 3D printed parts, the housing and the lid, both are roughly 76 grams of filament.
The average print time for the housing and lid is 2.5 hours each.
In a 23x23cm bed side, I was able to fit 3 housing/lid parts.
I hope this answers all your questions, let me know if you have further questions. I also just added the 3D print settings in the project repository in case you need it 👍🏼.
Awesome 👍👍 i must try these. thanks for everything
Hi à got a question regarding your click project. Do you know a website where could do those 3D printings for an affordable price?
Great video by the way and great projects! Thank you 🙏
Awesome project, thanks for putting it together! Did you have any issues with the LEDs sometimes flickering between color changes? It could just be that the jumper cables I'm using to test the components are 26 awg and kind of long. Should this fix itself when I set everything up with 20awg wires, or did you need to use a level shifter / something else?
Thanks! I didn't use any level shifter or voltage booster. I don't think changing the wire gauge will do much in this case, I would suggest looking into your power supply, check what the max current output is and ensure it is rated for 12V.
Hi, awesome video and awesome design.
My son (14) would lije to make a portable 2 digit laptime board. It needs to have 2 x 7-segmdnt digits which have a controller (Arduino or Raspberry Pi) and it will need to have a LiPo rechargeable battery and a way to recharge it. It should all fit in a portable protective carry case.
Can you provide him some ideas, advice and some help with the rechargeable power source?
I'd really appreciate your help to help my son.
Kibd regards, Andrew
Hello Andrew! That sounds like a great project! It would be very similar to this project, you will just have 2 digits instead of 4. An ESP32 was used for the micro-controller as it provides wireless connectivity built-in, which was required for the phone connection to control the lights. However, if you don't need a wireless (WiFi) connection, you can go with pretty much any micro-controller or a Raspberry Pi. Something to keep in mind regarding the Raspberry Pi in your case, since you want it portable, the Pi current consumption is very high compared to a micro-controller, but could work if you want to use it in short time e.g. few hours before needing to recharge. I would only recommend to use the Raspberry Pi if it's not possible to use a micro-controller or you have specific processing needs that can only happen in a Pi.
Regarding the power source, a LiPo rechargeable battery is a great choice. Get one with the highest mAh that you can fit in your case for maximum battery life if that is important. There is an "S" number for each lipo battery that will determine the voltage output of the battery, this does not matter too much, but choose one that is higher than the required voltage for your project, and use a step down converter to convert the voltage down to the required amount.
I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any further questions.
I would recommend for anyone building this to make the header 4pin and block one pin with glue or something so you cannot reverse polarity
3d print a key connector for these connectors... slide on and glue
by far the best explanation ever! what filaments did you use for the 3d printed parts?
Thank you! For the filaments I used matte 1.75mm PLA by Tinmorry.
@@ProjectsWithRed many thanks for the reply. how was the PLA with the heat of the LEDs so far?
@@chipchorps No issues at all, the LEDs emit little heat even in full brightness after multiple hours.
Great project, especially the way segments are connected to each other. And are you going to make a pcb to control the segments?
Thank you! At the end, I just ended up making a small stripboard for a permanent solution and to make it take up a small footprint, no PCB was made. The stripboard uses the exact same wiring of the breadboard.
Hey. I'm newer to electronics projects like this. I was wondering how you connected the power supply to the breadboard.
I just soldered some solid core wire or header pins to the power supply cables, see 14:36, top left of the breadboard.
Hello, why is the condenser used? How many volts should it be used?
Hey, great Video
I'm rather new to diy electronics, do you have a recommendation what type of 1000μF capacitor i should use? or does any 1000μF capacitor work?
Any common 1000μF capacitor will work.
@@ProjectsWithRed Sorry that i need to ask again, but how do you connect the powersupply to the board? Dont I need another thingy where i plug the power cable in?
i REALLY love this and wnat to take it and apply it to something im designing.. the biggest thing im interested in are the clips that lock them together. I got the stl file for them, but theyre SO tiny that my printer struggles to print them.. do you have any insight how to maybe enlarge it a little? also if you could possible point me where to look to learn how to get that channel that they fit into cut out in my surface, that would be AWESOME.
I am glad you like it! To print the small connectors that connects segments together, I have added the printing settings I used to print them to the repository. The main idea is to use as small as possible layer height and print as slow as possible. To enlarge them, I recommend scaling them up directly in Cura. To create the channel that they slide into, use the housing 3d model to get the dimensions needed. I recommend scaling them up only if you need to as they are surprisingly strong 👍🏼.
Bro this is epic !
I spend hours watching your projects and I am starting them too :)
Is it possible to add a ambient light sensor to the board ?
This is awesome to hear! Yes you can do that.
Please make reference to a project you are using in your video. In particular WLED project. It will be nice to put that in a description.
The link has now been added with everything you need to create this project :).
@@ProjectsWithRed Reason why I post a comment that you don’t mention in your description to your video that you using WLED project in your project. And I still can’t see you added to a description mentioning about WLED.
@@serg74ny Oh ok, I will add it now.
Great project . can the insert window be printed rather than buying the acrylic sheet , maybe someone here already created an STL for it.
Yes you can definitely do that. A thin white filament will do the job, it will not provide the same glowing effect as the acrylic but will still work.
@@ProjectsWithRed thanks you! I ended up getting foam bord paper from the dollar store and cut them to shape. the light glow looked pretty good when I held them up to other LED strips that I have. ill end up putting them all together this weekend, I opted for the desk light version of the project.. thanks again for the great work.
@@FranckyAntoine Good stuff. You are welcome!
Great project!
Thank you very much! Remember to subscribe if you haven't already so you don't miss future projects :).
I am printing out my first set of pieces for the clock! I noticed that I have leds that are 5v, not 12v. I assume this means I dont need the stepdown converter. How else would that change the wiring here? Like do I need the capacitor still?
That's awesome to hear! Yes you won't need the step down converter, as you can just power the ESP32 using the power supply directly. Apart from that there is only a few changes you need to make in the app such as setting the correct voltage, which if you follow the video, you will know what you need to change accordingly. I would still recommend the capacitor.
You are making great projects! Immediately subscribed ;)
By the way, I've seen other types of segment displays that can not only show all the numbers, but also show any letters as well, try to search for it, maybe you'll have an idea on how to make segments for that type of display, it would be capable of showing any information on the wall, and you'd be able to make any word with those segments
That's great to hear! That's a great idea, maybe in the future I will re-visit this project and make additions to it like you mentioned.
Subbed.. great project
Great Project,
It amazes me ( after watching many many other 7-segment YT video's ) that there still is someone to come up with an original idea.
Like this concept.
Since I don't have a 3D printer , having the Lid/Housing etc printed by a 3D prints supplier for ONE single digit ( 7-segments ) would cost me 140 euro.
So based on that fact :
Q1: How easy would it be for you to have the scale adjusted to a 50% smaller size.
It would also make the Height of a single digit : 20cm iso currently 40cm,
I have made myself ( based upon other YT video's ) a 7Segment clock . But my segments are made out of cardboard.
Have also various lamps build with WS2812B Leds an the excellent WLED app.
But it was a big surprise for me that actually via WLED you can 'control' the 4 digits for HH:MM.
So I will definitely investigate that in detail and try to copy it.
Johan
Thanks! Q1: You can scale it down, however, the connections between the segments might not work as well.
it is possible to use any type of rgb led, or you have to use only that type of led that you put in the video thanks
Please refer to the link below to see exactly which LED strips are compatible.
kno.wled.ge/basics/compatible-hardware/
You are super brilliant! Thank you for the hard work needed to to bring this project to fruition!
Thank you very much for that, it means a lot! I am glad to have you here!
I like your Video a lot. However, I would like it to be in one color (e.g. white, red or blue) and above all much smaller, with only 1 to a maximum of 3 LEDs (instead of 9) in one element of the 7-segment display.
Could you maybe make a video about it?
I will unfortunately not be making a video about that, but it would be fairly easy to modify this project to get this done.
Hi,The capacitor is how many volts?
Thanks for your video! This looks like a great project for my classroom. Has anyone added any additional features to further customize this project? I think it would be great to create a color change/flashing feature at the different times my students depart. It may also be valuable to create an audio alert to warn the students of their departure time. I am wondering if there are other ideas to add functionality to the project. Maybe the display could respond to a request through a smart assistant. For example, "Alexa, what is the current temperature?", could display the outdoor temperature. I can think of some other fun uses. Scores to the game of my favorite baseball team, etc. Has anyone doing anything similar?
Can you replace the acrylic by custom printed covers? Have you checked the proper screen thickness for the distance between the leds and the surface, so led "bulbs" are not noticeable?
You can for sure use 3D printed covers, but the glow effect might not be as great as the matte opal acrylic sheets. Yes I experimented with multiple heights and the one that gave the best glow effect and least printing material and time was chosen.
hola. muy buen proyecto. y donde se consigue el codigo para programar el esp32???
There is a repository link in the description.
Is there any way I can load this up to a ESP32-S3? Thanks!
8A thru this tiny switch and thru the breadboard?
Would you provide stl project file for 3d print please
Excellent
What keeps the acrylic sheet secure in place; I see there is a lip to keep it from falling out, but its not clear what keeps it from falling in?
It's glued in place 👍🏼
you are the best thanks
You are welcome!
Thank you!
👍🏼👍🏼
Any chance you have the acrylic measurements in a vector format? dxf, svg etc . I would prefer to cut them on my laser if possible.. If not, I can design it, but thought id consult you first :) thanks
Unfortunately I don't have the measurements in those formats.
you are the best my friend 🤓 ❤
how can i have 3D printer plan file?
can you put it on the description? 🎉❤
Please refer to the repository link in the video description. 👍🏼
will it work if we pull latest wled from github?
THX for Sharing
What did you use to cut the acrylic?
I used a scroll saw to cut the acrylic.
Hi, after loading your code on esp 32, Wi-Fi doesn't recognise the device, I can't connect it with WLED. Do you have a solution? Thank you
Please guide me how can i make working business using your beautiful creative idea
If you are referring to selling this product commercially, please note that the license for this project is Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License. Please see repository link in the description for the full license. In summary, you are not able to use this project for commercial purposes if that is what you are asking about.
I tried to add the 2 points between the 4 digits, but I couldn't, can you give me some indication of how to do it? Thanks a lot
I suggest making an Issue in the GitHub repository of this project with as much detail as possible and I will try my best to help you 👍.
hello, at minute 15, you say to modify "USERNAME SETUP" but in my case it says "No Usermods installed."
what am I doing wrong?
Thank you
Is there a way to make the lights flash to the beat of music?.
Yes the WLED app already supports this.
@@ProjectsWithRed thank you..
Hi, I would like to insert the 2 dots between 2 segments, which flash to mark the seconds, do you have the code for arduino? Or if you can give me an indication on how to do it? Thank you
I suggest taking some time to study the code in "WLED/usermods/NanoLeaf_Display/usermod_nanoleaf_display.h" where you can make your additions to control the 2 dots.
The connectors I have printed don't fit; I didn't print them using the Cuda profile, could that be the problem?
Yes it could very well be, since they need to be printed with the highest possible precision because they are so small.
at 17:13 you say a small _____ board? sounded like step? couldnt quite hear it... Could you please explain this part a bit, so I can get that part. thanks
It's a stripboard, used to make the electronics compact so it all fits in the housing part 👍🏼.
Can I ask one thing.. if possible please create triangles and hexagons using same interlocking system which can also pair up with these making it a much more customizable .. i don't know much about cad related stuff and i just bought a new 3d printer.. and this project blew my mind😊😊
I unfortunately will not be making any custom shapes for this project any time soon. However, I suggest learning the basics of 3D modelling and from there you can easily make any shape you want, while still using the interlocking system just by replicating the same method in your design. Thank you! I am glad that you like it.
How can I create a 6-digit display with this system?
It should be fairly straightforward, you just need to connect each new digit to the male end of the 4-digit display. In terms of the code, you need to change a few variables which are self-explanatory, for example, the "NUM_OF_SEGMENTS" variable will be 6*7=42 (6 digits, 7 segments each digit) rather than 4*7=28. Then you just need to study the code for a bit and see how you can manipulate it to control the 2 new digits, which should be fairly easy as I made sure the code is easily scalable.
Brilliant
Can i use 12V 10A?
Yes you can, as long as your LED strip uses 12V and not 5V.
@@ProjectsWithRed alright, thank you 😁😁
I have problems to upload clock configured file to ESP32 board. I get error message "command 'platformio-ide.upload' not found". I have unistall PlatformIO and delete also folder PlatformIO and reinstall PlatfromIO, but still have some problems.
Have you selected the correct micro-controller?
Can I use ESP8266 rather than ESP32? Please answer.
Yes you can 👍🏼.
I cant get it to work
Maybe any1 can help me with this error code when i try to upload the code: command 'platformio-ide.upload' not found
Same exact error
It is brilliant but cannot upload to ESP32 on Mac!!!
There is no com1 or com2
Cannot use the clock
By the way it does not work on pin 16
It works on pin 2
It doesn't have to be COM1 or COM2 etc. Use whatever name it is on the Mac. If that doesn't work, try removing the whole upload port line from the code and upload. It should detect your ESP32 automatically. Yes the pin will depend on the exact ESP32 you use 👍🏼.
I am facing a problem, after uploading the clock code, I am unable to connect to the wled app, can someone please help. Thanks in advance
Are you able to connect to the web interface with your computer?
@@newmexicojoe thanks for your response, I am now able to connect to wled. Also I have done all changes on led preferences. But only 1 digit of the entire clock is on, which is on the breadboard side. Rest 3 digit is off
Have you changed the length value to 87 in the LED preferences? Also double check the wiring to ensure its correct.
Where are the segment files available? This is a great project
Thank you! They will be available tomorrow 👍🏼. There will be a link with everything you need, the code, 3D models, wiring, etc.
@@ProjectsWithRed outstanding!! Thank you
@@Hobsonchoice The link to everything you need has now been added to the description of the video ;) I do apologise for the 1 day delay.
@@ProjectsWithRed no apologies needed. Thank you for this
12 hours format is not working!
Any solution?
Did you turn off 24h format in the config settings?
@@ProjectsWithRed yes, Still 12 hours not working
why use an seperate led stripe at the start of the display? software can be adjusted to dont need it, its not that hard...
This was the only way of doing it that will work the most native way with the WLED app to control the LEDs seamlessly.
@@ProjectsWithRed there is an option to skipp the first segment completly. So it should be possible to set it to skip 3...
Anyone else had the issue where the little connecting plate just slips out ? I can slide it down that channel, and when it reaches the bottom it just pops right out... i have 18 of each of the other parts printed, about to start the wiring :)
Scaled it up to 105% and it works much better for me.
@@InTheLab3d Good stuff! You can also try printing them in highest possible quality 👍.
@@ProjectsWithRed They were all printed on the bambu x1.. quality is insanely good.. Either way, it works. im happy, and the electrical components arrive today... Never having done breadboard or much wiring at all, im a bit nervous haha
@@InTheLab3d Good luck! Let me know if you need any help.
Great Project, i made some modifications to the 3D Printing parts since i printed it all in white and wanted to print it as complete part. 0,4mm height works fine and diffuses the light good.
The Problem i have is, i can't install the usermod. I made all the steps described in the Video and on Github two times now, never worked for me. Right after opening the Project without doing any change i get the Error:
[...]
Invalid environment name 'codm-controller-0.6'. The name can contain alphanumeric, underscore, and hyphen characters (a-z, 0-9, -, _)",
[...]
I don't get where the Problem is, anybody with a similar issue and/or fix? Google didn't held :(
Did you select your correct micro-controller in PlatformIO?
@@ProjectsWithRed Hey, thx for the reply. The fault appears right after i open the folder without selecting anything or setting anything up, just installed vsc and platformio then opened the folder. Because of the fault it does not build or Upload anything and underlines the First ; in platformio.ini. I copied an actual Version of the .ini and the fault was gone butthe upload didn't work also so I probably screwed something up during Copy/Paste 😅
Found it, it is the . in "codm-controller-0.6", change it to "codm-controller-0_6"and the Problem is gone (or delete it)
I've deleted mine and works well. but will not work with newest wled @@dankiefer751
Please give me a 3d printed file
You can find all the 3D files in the video description 👍🏼.
How is anyone suppose to afford this? I got quoted over $2000 for all the 3d printer parts! :(
If you own a 3D printer and print the parts yourself, it will be much cheaper than that, it will be around £40 in filament cost👍.
@@ProjectsWithRed Hi sir, How many voltagefor the capacitor 1000uF
@kinyanjuimartin7349
Yes, that is good question.!
If you look carefully, it is connected across the 12volt rails.
So I would use 25v or more.
I think it is 100 uf.
@@snakezdewiggle6084 thanks, it's working perfectly, now am trying the 4 segment but code is not opening on the vscode
Is there usermod that you mention in code WLED/usermods/NanoLeaf_Display/usermod_nanoleaf_display.h ? but nice project
Yes there is, I just checked it. Thank you!
@@ProjectsWithRed I used env:d1_,mini why doesn't show up in usermod, is it for esp32dev ?
@@ganbensie Did you clone/download the repository linked in the description? If you got the WLED repository from the original repo then the usermod will not be there. The repo in the description contains everything you need 👍🏼, including a modified WLED with the usermod.
Please refer to the /3d_printing directory.
This is written in your link
Yes that's where you will find all the 3D files, here is the direct link github.com/ProjectsWithRed/nanoleaf/tree/main/3d_printing
Thanks for your coperation