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I have the left handed bolt. The extractor pins should be mirror opposite right?

Bolt shims are nothing but snake oil. As long as headspace is within spec and not so far out ignition issues there's no reason to do this on a relatively new rifle

How do you get the bolt back if you accidentally twisted the top notch to the left, down into the groove.

Rather than going threw all this disassembling, cut a small piece of tin solder and place on the bolt. Close bolt on solder than remove and measure it. Tool maker lead set. Use this method every tool set up to check shut height.

What do you think of it now?

Thanks for this video! Also, I assume truing the action will mean I'll have to re-headspace the barrel?

You are going to have some serious striker issues

Those liners done slide in that easy. A mallet is generally used.

What size of pin punch would be needed to remove the ejector? Will a 1/16 work?

Sure was a lot of maysuring. 🤣

Wow the slop in the upper receiver with the red block installed is unacceptable.

you suck

I have EGW on both my Ruger American 308 and American Rimfire rifles. I honestly don't know any better rails out there.

Redneck innovation, well done 👊🏼

I have the same problem whit my 3006. What can i do bro.?

I JUST bought an ORIGINAL Savage 10FCM Scout in 308. Would really appreciate if I could pick your brain. Is the action screw spacing on that stock 4.275" ? Is the mag staggered feed or center feed? I want to modify it to accept center feed mags, maybe even AR10 or AICS pattern mags if possible. THANK YOU for posting this!

just get better at shooting the gun will always be more accurate than you that was advice from a smith and he was so right

I am about to fit one of these stocks to my Swedish 96 in 6.5 x 55. I hope I can finish at least as half good as yours. Already has been sporterised so not worried about destroying an original. Also will be using the same scope mounts, unsure if the already drilled action, hoping the 3 holes match up.

Cool! I just got a barreled action for less than I have seen them in awhile... I was going re barrel it to 6x45 but I might do a 6max when barrels become more available.... looking for a cheap stock for the time being...

Get yourself a set of graduated headspace gauges a million times quicker than removing a barrel. But I can say with almost absolute certainty 0.041" - 0.042" is all you will ever need even with eley ammo.

Verry good, but still missing the accuracy results ❤

I true the face in a lathe personally. I also use a reamer to true up the threads before facing the lugs. I rechambered a mauser and was suprised how subtlety different blueprinting was compared to all the rem700s I've built.

How would you do this on a 452 where you can't remove the barrel?

I have only the .22 insert and used it for my .308. It works since all it does is comparing the maximum to the desired seating depth. If same bullet is used, I am not sure why it matters to have larger caliber inserts?

Does it come with the case neck measure?

Hey I know I’m a little late but could I use all oem gen 4 lower parts kit ?

Does that square the "points" on the threading?

So easy, even I was able to do it. Thanks!

That was a great video very informative. Thank you

Look here boys n girls , another FIERCE FIREARMS, that someone had take their gun to another gunsmith. Fierce needs to be reported to BBB !

Stainless steel tanks?

If you zero the dial on your calipers to the thickness of your fishtail angle gage you dont have to subtract it

Question Is this really as easy as you're making it look, or do you just have too much practice? I work as a diesel mechanic, so I don't think I'll have any trouble figuring out the steps to do it, I'm just wondering how much of a pain in the ass it would be. This video is inspiring. I'd like to build the quintessential R700 woods rifle. Not sure what cartridge, but I would like it to be blueprinted correctly and stick the recoil lug on a surface grinder to be sure it's right. Then have a professional spin me up a barrel and install express sights on it and then I'd put the whole thing into a really nice looking wood stock with maybe a BDL floor plate I just paid a guy a whole pile of money to build me a Rem700 running The LORD's Cartridge. 24inch Krieger 10twist 4groove idk the recoil lug trued up R700 with 8-40 screws and all dropped into a McMillan U-1 tactical stock with ARCA and Hawkins M5. Factory trigger set to 3lb.

Your rifle looks great. Good job on fixing the muzzle break. I was really interested in your build because I'm thinking about using one of my 1893 actions to build a 450 Bushmaster. I have machine tools, stock blanks, a 45 cal Green mountain blank, and there's an orange kickeez pad in one of the drawers. About all I need is to pick up a reamer. The question that I wanted to ask you is about feeding. I assume that because of the larger case body only 4 rounds fit in the magazine. Do the cartridges feed well without modifying the feed rails? Did you have to do any work on the follower? It takes some fitting on the sear slot in the tang, and the cocking piece, to get a Timney trigger to work on a '93 but I've done that before. Did you glass bed your action? FYI: the eyepiece bell on modern scopes are usually bigger in diameter than older scopes like your Unertl, and sometimes the bolt handle can contact against the eyepiece so don't toss out those high scope rings just yet.

Great video, could be a bit longer for beginners, on how to exactly use the comparator set. 👍

good video dude to the point and you reference where you got the tools you use. Happy shooting!

How do you get good bolt lock up after you have removed the material? I guess I should ask how much material did you remove from the lugs? We could see the amount coming off the face, but did you just take it to where the blueing was all removed, therefor knowing you are flat and concentric to the bore? Stills seems like that could be enough material to make the lock up sloppy. That has always intrigued me. Great video by the way. Certainly nice to see this being done with hand tools vs $25k lathes.

at 3:50 minutes isn't that measurement 3.188, you said 3.088. Maybe I need to relearn how to read a dial caliper if it is 3.088

Does the action reamer increase the inside diameter over standard factory? In other words, can a factory barrel be reinstalled into the action once it has been blueprinted?

So I'm assuming the ammo use has a rim thickness of .040. The spec for 22lr ammo is .043 - .007 thick. You may encounter a .043 thick standard spec round and the bolt won't close? My CCI sv usually measures .042

Truing the barrel and action for AR10 and AR 15 could you please do the same?

Is that bottom metal made of polymer?

Use a caliper in metric system it will help you to read the result faster.

im 45 min north of mars pa and new that about the scopes

How can I contact you?

When truing bolt raceway why can’t you put a bushing behind the cutter when you run into the bushing at the tang.

We should be able to buy those barrels at a cut rate

noice

I don't ever pad the barrel. I put a piece of painter's tape just in front of the lug on the stock and covers forward of the barrel a couple of inches out. When you bed, after curing, you can snap off the extra compound very neatly and no clean up and no interference with the barrel portion at all. Look at a chassis rifle, they don't bed the barrel at all. If you were to pillar and bed at the same time, you would have a more homogenous bed without the small mounds made around the pillars that have to be cleaned up back to original height. You can also wrap your action screws in tape and spray with release agent and install. I use surgical tubing to clamp the action. Over drill the pillar holes until the pillars are free floating, then when installed everything will be perfectly centered without the screws touching the pillars inside the bores. Hope I had some tips that are useful. More than one way to do this, but I know this works well.

Thanks for explaining the Joke😅 300 plus Degrees is definitely nasty Stuff