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what does it even do i dont understand the point of it and im trying to figure it out, if you anyone can tell me what its for that would br great thank!

Super helpful! thank you!

Reply to Erik Burman: The human body's resistance varies widely depending on who you are, what your body chemistry is and most importantly, if your skin is moist or sweaty (usually with a lot of salt mixed in). It only takes a few milliamps of current to seize muscles or stop the heart from beating. So yes, there are a lot of variables.

Very interesting. The best clip on youtube with curve tracer. I have a function generator, including the sinusoid with a maximum amplitude of 24v. Could I replace the 24 V source with the sine wave generator ? I think, I could control the frequency and amplitude. Thank you.

Thanks for sharing a very clear schematic of your setup. This is about the fifth video on this topic I’ve watched today (and the last). But you’ve inspired me to get cracking on building my own; I believe I have couple of old AC voltmeters and ammeters laying around the shop, I didn’t realize I was saving them for this project.

Thx very much for explanation en guidance. Recently, I got one (IBM version) and very happy with it as it brings me back to the times of good history. It came with a DB (decibell) adapter which could plugged in on top using the 0.6mA scale.

What is the formula to calculate the bulb wattage needed related to the device?

How many times did you mutter the sound "uh"? I'll tell you - a pathetic number of times.

Great video, thanks. I have a same signal generator, and try to calibrate it. I had the R9 adjusted to 6V and calibrated all A to F bands without much trouble. But I can not get the wave form on oscilloscope for 455 khz and 10.7 Mhz sweep. Read the instruction which is not quite help since the way it did need crystal. I do have frequency counter. My question is can I calibrate 455 kHz and 10.7 MHz with the frequency counter (with the Modulation switch in Ext without any signal input) instead the wave form? Thank you in advance.

100 or 200 watts is way to high for low current devices like AA5 radios. Just sayen?

Put a suitable sized Jubilee clip (hose clamp) round the top of the capacitor and tighten to protect the aluminium from the side cutters. It will also help keep the top round as unlike the sheet metal held by hand there will be no gaps and it won't slip. Ah! see you saw that idea later in the video. One other thing you mentioned you have a polishing wheel. If you can substitute that wheel for a plain steel wheel or if you have a lathe you can set up a support bar to help hold the can tight against it while pressing and turning against the wheel to press the peeled metal back smoothly. I have stuffed several this way with good results.

Do you have the amphenol leads ?

Just finished to build it. 😁 I struggled for soldering the thick cables, design the panel, and design the BOX. The panel was done in Inkscape with a special extension, Scale, that creates simple gauges like MeterBasic, but since you are already in a vectorial app, then you can change the design as you want. I had to print and scale it a couple of times since once printed on the LaserJet, 1 cm on video was not 1 cm when printed. The box was designed in CAD and 3D printed, unfortunately only after I printed it, I realized that the data sheet with the drawings of the amperometer with holes and screws quotes, were completely wrong! I preferred to file so parts and do some drills on the box instead of change the CAD design and reprint it correctly, since it has to be used only once, and the manual holes were covered by the milliaperometer. I had also troubles to solder the thick cable even with a TS100 solder and the fattest iron. After the some mandatory soldering I switched to screw contacts for the following joins. However it looks very nice, and it seems to work fine also. I discovered that almost all my rechargeable batteries are still good. 😉

Just bought one on EBay for 11 bucks. Maybe I’ll need some parts.

Very interesting, nice and simple. 😎 Thank you.

Hi, this is not the way to restuff old capacitors: this is the way to destroy them,I have no channel on youtube, but if you want I can send to you images where I can show the way I usually restuff old capacitors on vintage electronics. Actually I am recapping a old Mcintosh MX110 (the Medium Version, without 6D10 Tube 1962/1963) and i'm not destryng the can.

I take my Dremel with a high grit stone and grind down the bottom of the can until I expose the steel ring. I then pull that out and remove the guts reusing the phenolic base. I reassemble by putting some two part black epoxy on the inner lip and placing the phenolic and steel ring back in place.

Restuffing cans is the best option. I restored a 1951 Andrea 16" TV that had nine (9!) cans. Imagine putting terminals and external caps for nine cans inside that already crowded chassis. 30 years after I'm gone, some guy will be thanking me for not turning that chassis into a train wreck. Other than the plastic caps replacing the paper ones, it looks like it did when it left the factory and still matches the picture in the SAMs.

Great video, but please get rid of this annoying background sound track. Incredibly annoying and distracting and your presentation stands great by itself without the need for some questionable audio "enhancement".

This thing is more like a grenade than a capacitor! It's a bit crazy to see a capacitor that large yet without any of the stress grooves in it that give away to let it explode more safely out of the top.

1:18 also bond vs Jaws on the train, electric bulb electrodes to the dental work, classic ...

$2 for a 350VA isolation transformer? $5 for a metered Variac? Bargains of the century!

It is called 'The Dark Effect'

For accurate calibration you have to pass 50 microamps through the meter and set the needle deflection to full scale using R2. You then measure the resistance between the input to the meter (left side of R2) and the far side (right side) of R1 and adjust R1 until you have 5k ohms exactly. That is DC and Ohms calibration done. Then you can test accuracy on all ranges for full scale deflection using a reference DC source. If there is any inaccuracies the prescaling resistors need to be checked. Once that is done you can calibrate AC volts using a known AC voltage for full scale. Once again the prescaling resistors values will affect meter accuracy.

You're very welcome, thanks for the comment!

Great vid. I just sold mine last year & you made me regret that a bit. I never cal'd the sweep part so that was very helpful. 👍

😱 "Promo SM"

Hello how much is a good price for a working Simpson 160 with the original case and manual in great condition? Just wondering so I don't over pay as I'm looking to pick one up. Thanks for the video and your time!

Hello, Great video! I was wondering whether you know the size of the Allen Wrench I need to use to remove the selector knob screw?

I watched someone age's ago print out a picture on paper using an inkjet printer, soaked in water I think and applied it to a tin coated piece of sheet metal and it looked amazing! The video had nothing to do with electronics but I could see how it would be perfect for electronic enclosures.... Haven't needed to do it myself yet but I have never forgotten the video, I can't remember what the video was called or who posted it but for some reason I was watching art videos which is standard practice for a polymath like me... I'm always watching random videos or reading random stuff... You only ever need to remember seeing something somewhere and you will find the information when you need it, sometimes you remember more while other times less but you never forget that you know something about the topic that you are currently working on.... Great effort in this video! Pretty underrated considering the amount of view's this channel is getting.... Thanks for posting 😁.

I'm a beginner, but I tried making it. I am thrilled that it was a success！Thank you！

Never actually seen a transformer like that anywhere where I live (finland), I only recall having seen a few large stations that took up the space of a house and a yard, wired off with large metal fences and lots of buildings and electrical equipment, whole place makes a hummmmm sound. One station serves many thousands of households.

The 9 volt battery has 6 cells in series. esr per cell would be - meter reading and divide by 6.

Putting 12V randomly into board points could blow a lot of things up in modern parts...

What is important to note is that most variacs have no isolation at all, one side of the output always gonna be live of it and the other just tapped voltage from it pretty much, you want to use your isolation transformer if you measure anything in live voltage to protect your scope. I got my big Variac first actually way back in time but later I got a very big nice isolation transformer that even have virtual ground. I put a switch on the ground circuit to be able to run either isolated live without ground or together with virtual ground. it is a great thing to have if you were to work on a tube radio that works without both ground and transformer, yeah the death radios and I don´t like them. but you never get better than your tools I always say, but your tools also don´t have a brain you you have to use your own. Just because you have fancy isolation and variacs you won´t be completely protected which you always should have in mind. Don´t put too much trust in your extra safety

Hello- thanks for the video. I ordered a new cover for my meter and it did not have the anti static coating. Can you recommend a spray for this problem? - Phil

I built my tracer a couple of years ago and I made it with two pots which is for both variable output voltage and variable current, this way I can really tweak in the reading parameters I want to get without the need for different input voltages of the octopus, it is a very useful tool to have when you need it

THANK YO FOR SHARING.

Thanks for your nice video.I also have got this type of ic. l may try it.

Great project, well done!

Nice project.

COOL VIDEO ℹ LOVE OLD RADIOS 📻 I JUST SUBBED TO YOUR CHANNEL I TYPE IN ALL CAPS BECAUSE OF MY BAD EYESIGHT NOT YELLING JUST TO LET YOU KNOW

Thx for informative video.....New fresh 9 volt Alkaline Non--Rechargeable batteries Most Designed for < 100 ma Load, contain significantly Less internal Chemical Paste & Electrode area per Cell (Compared to 1.5 volt AAA--D size batteries) naturally causing much higher ESR & Trying to source 1000 ma test Current draw into your 10 ohm Load resistor.....A switchable load Resistor of 100 ohms (For 9 volt Alkaline) to 10 ohm for 1.5 volt battery would Probably be more Realistic (And potentially Less overload Damaging) for 9 volt Alkaline batteries.....Just a thought on tweaking your Excelent diy ESR battery Quality tester design......

I do a lot of troubleshooting and repair of test gear and metrology equipment. A good variable frequency ESR meter is an absolute must for quick fault finding on circuit boards. In circuit testing is unparalleled in quickly and accurately narrowing down the possibilities. An esr meter can test a lot of things other than just caps. I think the "diode gone wild" did a few videos where he showed off some techniques, and so did "learn electronics repair". And an analog scale is pretty hard to beat in some instances. So I could see this really becoming popular with the DIY and even professional electronics troubleshooting folks

Been hoping for some good esr testers with analog display. Very nice design. Possibly a future upgrade to allow for a range of different test frequencies.

I was a victim of counterfeit batteries. I bought a pack of AAA cells for remote controls, and my remote died way too soon, and the batteries leaked as well. I checked the pack of batteries, and they were also corroded, yet they had ten years left on the use by date! But comparing the failed pack of batteries to a new pack, I saw the difference right away! Sadly, I don't remember where I had bought them, but I suspect they came from Walmart. I have had trouble with pop cans from Walmart as well, and I really look at the products before I buy anything from there, and I don't shop there unless absolutely necessary. You can print anything your printer is capable of on plastic or plastic coated papers available for printers. But the best method for me has been the transfer paper! If you have ever built models and painted them, you would be given a set of transfer decals to apply to the model. Well, you can buy the same paper, and use it, but you need waterproof ink to use with it. The transfer paper allows you to paint the metal plate any color you desire and apply the decal to the plate! I would not print the background on the decal, as it doesn't look as good as painting the plate, at least that has been my experience.

One could paint the backside of the original metal scale with Dye Sublimation coating, then heat press the artwork right onto the metal.... people that do a lot of Dye Sublimation could do it for you.

But it kills the battery. Zero point never will be the same after you measure that battery with this.

One scale for different battery voltages will not work very well. The 10 Ohms resistor loads the NiMH with a little more than 100 mA but the poor 9V block with almost 1A and the Lithium something in between. As the internal resistance calculates (Vopen-Vload)/Iload you would need different scales for different battery types.

This is very useful. Thank you very much.