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🌻 Марино, чудові портрети! Ви надихнули мене поексперементувати з портретами, бо у мене є подібне антикварне крісло, яке я знайшов на дорозі 😝 ❤️✌️🇺🇦

Портрети супер! 👍

P33 is a great film! I loved it in 510-Pyro and Kodak D-76, but I haven't used it in HC-110/Ilfotec HC, but that's for next year and the full review. Loved your self-portraits and prints!

good shot, well done developing and printing ., what to see more of the complete process .. the print is the end goal ... Ansel Adams!!!

Why not just go for the P30?

Another good video!

Wow I love your editing on the photoshoot part of this video, really well done. Great to get all the details after though.

Love the images. Great job!

Great results! I like the contrast and love the fact that it dries so flat.

You have done very well, nice photos. With a new film I would have bracketed teh shots by hlaf a stop increments over a two stops span to see what worked best, an dkeot a record of the exposure. And you are correct Rodinal is not the best match for P33. If you did decide to go for HC110, I'd have a look at the Euro HC by Bellini. It is the same formulation, dilution and development times but you don't have to buy a litre of it as it is quite costly. I buy it in 250ml bottles, but I think you can even buy a 100ml of it. It is a pretty good combination with Pan F Plus @ iso 32, and Delta 100 @ iso 80.

Really fun. Good job.

I shot a roll of that, sent it off to the darkroom for development. Surprised at how grainy it was for 160iso film. Do like the contrast tho.

Results look stunning! Reminds me of Paolo Roversis work.

Love it ‘! Keep on shooting on ! Tommy

found a portrait image u shot on lomography site and it linked to this video (: thank u for sharing

great review, I shoot one to, but a few more tips, a con, if there is one, is that the camera has a Baffle in the back, this protects the film with no darkslide when lens changing, but operates at 1/15th of a sec. any shutter speed below this needs you to HOLD the shutter button until the click, so the baffle doesn't cut the time short; Also to better use filters, and the pro shade (a compendium hood, extendable), you need the CF lenses, with a constant B60 size (bayonet of 60mm dia.), the C's have various diameters from 45 mm on up, the CF series is a consistent size throughout the focal length range (excluding the 300 & 500 mm lenses, which have a larger front barrel).

Loved the Photos.

I have a question. I have the 105, 55 and 75 all SMC pentax. For some reason, with the 105 and the 75, when I stop down the aperture in manual mode, it also stops down the lens. So if my lens is at 22, I can't even see what I'm trying to get in focus because it's too dark. The only lens that doesn't stop down is the 55 - I can see a bright screen at all apertures. Do you know why this happens to the 105 and 75 but not the 55? i have to focus wide open and then fix my fstop its pretty annoying. Do you have this issue or is my copy defective? the viewfinder is only bright in all apertures if i ahve the lens in automatic mode once i switch to anything lower than f11 i basically cant see anything in the viewfinder its wayyy too dark.

I’ll be sacrilegious … XP2 😮😂 (used to enjoy Kodak BW400CN but they stopped making that years ago) … but for a traditional b&w, Tri-X every time - though it is probably a conditioned bias due to the photos & photographers I have always liked (pretty much the de facto photojournalism film back in the day)…

Nice video ! Tri-x looks great in HC-110 B as well.

Recently I've tried Rollei Retro 400 and I think it is very similar to Tri-X 400 because of high contract. I love it and highly recommend

I gotta get me a 4x5 tank. Just got myself a busch pressman that I wanna start shooting. Anyway it's nicee seeing another reel dawgie out here in the wild world of youtube. Check out my new home dev related youtube short post of the day where I sing to my dog all about the importance of developing film at home to take back control from the chaotic industrialists hell bent on lining their pockets with their fancy drum scanners and fuji mini lab machines.

Thank you for your video 🙂 Inspires me to get starting with this method! Just wondering for that drum… do you have to tilt it sideways when filling it up? I notice on the cibachrome that there is a hole in the other end and it seems like it will just leak out the liquids on the other end which don’t make sense as to why it’s designed like that… unless there is a twist-seal mechanism to prevent it from draining out when pouring in?

I also prefer Tri-X to HP5. The contrast and grain pattern of Tri-X is more appealing to me.

I agree with you about Tri-X. I've shot with it for decades, and it's never failed me. I'm especially impressed with your results from that off-brand camera - proving once again that the photographer is more important than the camera.

Yes, I've tried HP5 and it always looks flat and dull to my eyes. Tri-X 'pops' the way I want B&W to look.

hello, i found it cool to have a quick look with the darkroom results, but it would be cooler if we had : the paper used, the grade, the f stop of the enlarger lense, the time exposed etc etc... thank you =)

I agree with you. Tri X has never failed me. Have never been a fan of HP 5.

Your photos look very nice. I especially liked the point and shoot concert shots and the leaves at the end. This encourages me to give film another shot, so to speak.

Tri-X was my first and favorite black and white film. At least, for normal things. I loved Kodak HIE (High speed Infrared Exposure) but… it’s out of production now.

I’ve just developed a few rolls of Tri-X for the first time and found it pretty good. However, my son shot some (cheap) Kentmere 400 and I was surprised at how similar the results were. Afterwards I shot some Acros II and wow that stuff is beautiful and absolutely my new favourite. Normally I shoot 400 speed, so I’m going to try some other 100(ish) speed films like FP4+ and Kentmere 100 and Delta 100 to see how close I can get to the amazing ultrafine grain look I got with Acros. I’ve been developing with XTol recently and it seems to give good results. My main developer before that was HC110 and that works well with HP5.

Just got back into shooting film after several years and find Tri-X 400 in both 35mm and 120 as my favorite everyday film as used with ND filter or an Orange filter it covers pretty everything shooting situation that my come across and only going with low ISO films for special situation. As far a developers go Kodak XTOL has always been my favorite B&W film but started using the ADOX version XT-3 recently as it comes in 1 liter packages as 5 liter ones from Kodak are just too much for number of rolls of B&W film I shoot each month.

I don't disagree with you that Kodak Tri-X is a great film, but there is no such thing as the best film. I have shot film for most of my adult life, which means more than 50 years, and I am still finding new and great films. There are two conditions for a film to perform to its best, 1: is the correct and adequate exposure and the other is the choice of developer. A good example is Ilford HP5 Plus. It can be flat, grainy low resolution, yet change the developer to something like Perceptol and expose @ iso 200 and be prepared to be pleasantly surprised with superb tonality and grain as fine as an iso 100 film. The same goes for Tri-X , it can be contrasty and grainy with one developer, yet exhibit sublime tonality and fine grain with another.

I highly recommend trying Kodak Double-X. It has a very classic look and more contrasty compared to HP5.

Another great video, thank you! Tri-X is a good classic 400 speed film. Though, I usually (when there is enough light) personally prefer the less grain of good 100 (or slower) speed films. I might shoot 400 more often if/when I get around to shooting more medium format. Of course, if one is shooting in low light faster film comes in handy.. 🙂

HP5 pushed two stops delivers a more punchy look, similar to Tri-X, however Tri-X is still my favourite. I don't buy much of it though as its 33% more expensive than HP5.

Brilliant 👍❤

a useful way to avoid scratching negatives is to "squeegee" the film between your fingers instead of using plastic tongs.

Thanks

portra sucks for melinated skin types.

I love the photos from the first session! The colors are fantastic!

i feeel like youre serenading me with your eyes.

I'm also a member of The Frugal film project 24 on Facebook I'm having a lot of fun there I bought an as-is canon elan 7ne from KEH for $38 and a Canon EF 35-80 mm III lens for $10 from eBay and had to repair both of them and they perform very well now the film I'm using this year kentmere pan 400 24 frames I also got my wife Kim involved with it she's having a lot of fun with her Pentax IQ Zoom 200 a thrift store fine for $20. as always I enjoy your videos keep up the good work and get out and shoot :)

I prefer the kentmere pen 400 I have shot a lot of it 120 and 35 mm didn't care for the Arista film because of the curl and all of the other issues when scanning. I have two of the Pentax 645 I keep one of the Pentax 645 Cameras loaded with Kodak gold 200 and the other camera with kentmere pen 400 I have a 3 of Canon Elan 7e/ne which really performed beautifully for film. I use d76 1927 recipe at 1+1 at 14 minutes for the kentmere pan 400 and I make the developer from individual chemicals that I buy very economical and the individual chemicals last for very long time I make up the developer and clip test the next day. I really enjoy your videos keep up the good work :)

thank you for the inspiration.

Nice photos. I use films without remject backing. My lab won't touch it. The reason Seattle film works sold this film along time ago and you had to mail it back to them for development. Customers were taking it to local labs not knowing and ruining photo machines. I schoot tungsten film outdoors without any filters. I like the blue cast I get from it. You shouldn't be dumping film chemicals down the sink. You should dispose of them properly. They may be considered hazardous waste.

You don’t have to respool the film, all you had to do is use a nail clippers and clip it to size!

well done , good shots and you did well with both exposure and developing this old expired film 10/10