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He has 2 other helpful videos regarding routing and access as well

Glad it was helpful!

No problem 👍Yes it all went back together in the end smoothly

Glad it was helpful!

Sorry you were not able to see this informative video prior to you removing other things. Were you able to sucessfully complete it with my method?

You can use anything from drip irrigation fittings or any rigid plastic that will wedge in place. I used my sons plastic crayola marker tube and its still holding up years later

Im trying my best to help others. Maybe get a new camera soon or a tripod

Makes sense! Too bad they did not use a better quality line like a good poly hose

Best to use one of the bolt grabbers, the little metal things that open and close in tight spaces if you cannot grab it.

No problem, my pleasure

Not a problem! I am gglad this video helped you!

Your welcome!

Glad to help

Im glad this video can help you. One other reason a sensor can fail is due to being painted over. Were you able to fix your issue?

I suggest when replacing the hose you lube the hose with silicone grease or radiator hose grease to aid with future removal. I literally had to buy a spare Range Rover as a parts car as these vehicles do not age well. So far I replace a radiator, tranny, head gasket, fuel pump, air suspension, tpms module, suspension controll module, 2 sets of deteriorate keys, fuel pump sender and filter unit, full suspension, and now my head gasket just blew at 100k miles, oh and an alternator, battery and windshield wiper relay and all the plastics, cowels A pillars and interior broken crap . Range Rovers are getting worse even more so that they are owned by the Chinese company Chery Motors in conjunction with the India company Tata motors owning a 50% stake. Maybe the Chinese made parts will actually be better quality then the British made parts ....so maybe China owning JLR group will help out!

Glad I could help a fellow DIY'ER

The 120 grit seemed to work best and leave an even mating surface. For added security finishing with 180 grit is suffice. My motor is still running after all these years with using 120 frit....the gasket will take care of the rest. What's more important is a flush and truly flat surface so find the thickest glass possible and use some spay adhesive on the back of the sandpaper to bond it to the glass and then slowly sand until you have an even sheen on the mating surface

Great advice!

Glad to help you

Hi Joe yes its in another video I made on my channel. No need to pull the CJB.

Nice! LR4 is amazing

Thanks!

Surprised they never upgraded the hose over the years...

cheers!

Honestly for anyone this can help my best advice for this situation would be to check your electrical connections, fuse, open/close switch and lastly ensure you are getting 12V power to switch. If not you can manually open and close the sunroof for emergency situations. Usually its always an electrical issue and rarely the sunroof motor itself.

Yes! glad to help!

Glad to help you out!

Love/Hate for sure

Not a problem! Glad to help!

looooong process

offset wrench

No problem

Good question I am thinking he has no idea and is maybe just going for the minimal amount trying to just get the pitting out and flat as possible! A heavy grade of sandpaper will shave off the aluminum at a rapid rate and then the scratches left by that heavy sandpaper have to be removed by different grades of sandpapers until the surface has that polished look and that can mean if he used an ....... OMG, he used an 80 grit grade of paper !!!! ( i just rewound the vid to check) I thought he started with 180 grit !!! 80 is too coarse in my opinion! anyway if you start with say a 120 grit you need to use a 180 grit after that next to a 220 or 240 grit then a 360 grit next a 400 or a 450 ok you can see my point because the sandpaper continues like this, the higher the number the finer the paper it continues to 1,000, 1,500 2,000 up, until ultra-fine sandpaper! I would probably have probably started at 180 gone to 240,360 400, and then used valve lapping paste on a glass surface to finish because taking too much will fuck it! looking up the specks can tell you recommended tolerances etc but DIY this way you will never know where that is! I guess it depends if the head comes off a lawnmower or some high-performance motor like a 4 cylinder 1,000cc sports bike!

@@NINJUTSUguy I just saw your comment and your suggestion is overkill for a small boat motor like this. Almost 6 years and my 35hp is still running strong with full compression using 120 grit as my final sanding.

So glad to see this comment and glad it helps others.

I agree a good thick sheet of tempered glass is best and I would recommend grinding paste-like the stuff used for lapping in valves( I saw one guy that attached a spark plug socket to the spark plug and then used the socket Extention that went into a drill so that he could spin the head on the glass using the paste and in 10 mins he had done a dam good job .... I know not all heads can be spun using this method but I would try to finish the job with the paste if I used the sandpaper method ) I am a spray-painter by trade and I know hand -pressure and not mixing up the direction equally uneven wear of the sandpaper blah blah can give you a bad outcome, plus you should know the specks on how much you can skim it down before you overdo it!

Good advice. Never hurts to have more insurance on the job. many year later and motor still fires up first turnover.

Amazon, offset wrench

Thanks Bro after 4 yrs 😂😅

You have to pay for that video.

@@edgark9814 Since I didn’t see it I did a search & watched three great video productions before you answered. Thanks anyway, but lots of people are doing this one!

Good advise on further correction

yes drain it so it does not come out after you remove the thermostat housing, creating a major spill. After replacing everything, refill the radiator to full line, run it and top off as needed after the engine is cooled down.

U gotta follow thru!

Yes on that later model its more integrated in the bumper, but not on the 2006

Thanks! the mold never returned adter 5 years!

You gotta follow thru!

Did you get it fixed yet? Its called a thermostat housing gasket.

its called a thermostat housing gasket

After experimenting with different products ive found the best and cleanest method to be alcohol rubbing pads as it gently removes the outer layer and enables you to focus on smaller areas

If you decide to remove an entire panel then the best solution to use would be purple power concentrate to soak the panel overnight enabling the sticky soft touch coating to easily rub off. However if you have the patience and time use medical grade alcohol pads to be able to clean buttons rather than entire panels.

Edgar K thank you for the info.. I am going to give kt a try..

Edgar K thanks again..

glad it helped you!

G H i explain at 20 sec. that there is another video on how to remove the switch. this is how to repair it.

You gotta use your imagination...IMPROVISE