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Per my recent comment on your earlier video on this matter, this one has been also of immense use to me several times and I thank you for producing it. 👍

I have returned to this very useful video several times over the years and must thank you for addressing my concerns in your subsequent demonstration vid - also very useful. 👍

exalant info loved your video really helped

Thanks for this… so useful and saved the blood pressure 😀

In the first example your Kadee is projecting too far. The heel of the coupling only needs to be level with he buffers, which gives closer coupling. You need to drill a fresh screw hole further back.

Thank you for buying a American made product, It's from the country i live in, And, Greetings from the USA.

I know I'm late to the party, but if you have any of the NEM tensionlock couplings going spare, I can use them. I don't need the NEM pockets. Peter's spares are out of stock of them!

Poor audio

I model the Central of Georgia railroad since I used to live in Jonesboro, GA. I bought a couple of Atlas GP-7s from another modeler in the Central of Georgia livery and he had never run them. When I got them they looked brand new and absolutely no wheel wear. I got them for $75.00 each. I've never paid more than $120.00 for an engine. I started collecting HO gauge back in the middle 80's but never really thought about modeling any certain railroad. Now things have changed and I'm getting an Atlas RS-3 in the Central of Georgia livery for Christmas along with a Kadee boxcar in the CofG livery. I also just got my very first brass diesel, a Fairbanks-Morse H-12-44 in the CofG livery. Back in the 80's I mostly bought Athearn engines and I hope the Atlas engines will perform as well as the Athearn ones as they are quite robust and keep on rolling. I recently started collecting Lionel 027 as I got the very same Lionel train set I had when I was a kid from my cousin. My train set got left behind in the attic when we moved from Hephzibah, GA. I couldn't believe my cousin had the exact same one and I sure was happy to get that set. I've now collected enough to make a 027 layout with 4 steam engines and 1 Texas Special diesel F-3. I think I have a couple dozen rolling stock to go with what I have. Oh yeah, I'm a DC guy only as I hate the sound of HO gauge DCC. I will probably end up weathering my brand new engines. I just don't like seeing pristine engines/rolling stock on the layout. Yeah, I have a section of track (about 1 ft. or 14 in.) on top of roadbed with a Kadee coupler height tool mounted on it so I can check coupler height on all my rolling stock & engines. Did you know that the back of the height tool can be used to see if your car body is at the right height? You have to check the body height with no coupler in place or it will hit the back of the tool. I just found about this the other day. If the car body will just slip over the end it is at the correct height. Then all ya gotta do is add a coupler & draft box. Instead of using the Kadee magnets, neodymium (rare earth) magnets can be used much more reliably. Since I'm a DC only guy I changed out all the magnets on my open frame (Pittman) motors with rare earth magnets (neodymium) and it made a HUGE difference in current draw and now my old Mantua Pacific's will "creep" around the tracks. I also changed all couplers to body mounted Kadee couplers and changed out all plastic wheels with Walthers Proto 2000 metal wheel sets. Cost a good chunk of $$ to do nearly 100 pieces of rolling stock. Another trick I learned is after mounting the coupler draft box and Kadee coupler, put an itsy bit of super glue next to one side of the draft box and chassis and a little itsy drop of super glue on part of the screw and draft box. That will ensure that the draft box will not move nor will the screw move. Another trick is if you glue two pieces of plastic together, make sure you use an X-acto knife (I use A-proxo knife) and scribe hash marks on both pieces to ensure a good bond. I try to never glue on draft boxes and use my Kadee drill and tap for a 256 screw. I've even drilled through the metal weights to add a screw to the draft box. Guarantee they will never come off. I've also had a some screws come through (like on a flat car) and used the Dremel to cut off the protruding screw and then paint it black or same color of the body. Cheers from eastern TN

What a mess

These look awesome

Very nice

Excellent weathering on everything and Kadee conversions !!

Even more useful than your other video on the subject. Even more thanks.

Thanks for making this video. I live in the us and have been interested in hornby british stuff for some time now and I thought it would be cool to see if kadee couplers would work

I know you re probably just using what you have to hand, but like @Shane Spitty said a curved point likely would have helped a lot and could have maybe avoided moving the double slip.

Keep an eye on the arm horizontal when the board is "On". The limits are +/- 5% from horizontal.

Just been pedantic; you pull a signal "Off" to give a proceed aspect, and return it to "On" for a restrictive aspect.

‘1 or 2 mm drill’. It would be more helpful to say which. Ditto screw sizes.

Good video Ray. I am looking at KDs as I am building alot of wagons now as RTR arE just too high price . KD dont make it easy with their numbering system eg they have 416 for say long shank with pockets then use 17 18 and 19 for NEM style. I will take the plunge for some of them and maybe get the 1030 starter pack as that includes the gauge and pliers.

I experimented with a Dapol signal and lowered the voltage (4.5v) to produce a dimmer, more realistic light. The resistor value can be increased too.

Great layout and brilliant title too! Good effort on setting it up in the kitchen too! Impressive stuff! All the best, Paul

Southern Region trains all had buckeyes as standard and they could be dropped to expose the hook for the traditional bar and loop couplers. Its why SR emu stock at cab end it was the "pullman" bar that did the buffering and the buffers were retracted. Some of the Thumpers instead of having a gangway connector just had a buffered pullman bar at end of the non driving coaches instead of the single buffer the EPB's had.

Thanks very much for the video. I have been thinking about converting to Kadees, and your video presents a relaxed and watchable style. Much appreciated

Great video, just did the exact same thing as you ..just wandering if you can paint the magnet to disguise it on the layout?

Top job . Really enjoyed parts 1-6. Many thanks.

Love this! Right up my street. Happy New Year btw, and hope you are ok as not heard for a while now. Cheers!

Indeed working signals transform the layout, I have just Ordered a job lot of Berko 3 Aspect Colour Light Signals, with Eckon Feather kits, to covert the signals into junction signals, now I am just awaiting on My Friend to help Me install the Signals to My layout, plus I have also got a Layouts 4U 2 Aspect Ground Signal, which also needs wiring up

Code 100 is for mainline, code 70 or 80 is for sidings

You could just have a "shorty" flatcar with a Kadee on one end and a Tension lock/NEM on the other

Fantastic job 👍🏻 It’s on my modelling things to do on my layout lol 😂

# 5's work on just about any rolling stock

Great selection of locos and stock !

Great video! Useful and informative. How do you stop the magnet uncoupling the train when it goes over it when you don't want it uncoupling?

Hello again. At 3:17 you show an uncoupler. Is this a retail item, or home made? I've been looking for something similar but haven't been able to find one.

I make cars out wood. In Canada I use kadee couplers and wheel sets. I wish I could find airfix here.

Very good presentation. I’m an American “O” gauge modeler but I have a small HO track I run some HO and OO on. I’m not terribly worried about being that prototypical but in my opinion the Kadee’s look much better and the ease of use is worth it alone for OO rolling stock.

Hello I keep coming back to this video as it was one of the reasons I decided to standardise of Kadee couplings and I find it very useful when I have a query. I find some wagons are easy to convert however I have problems with others. I think my main problem is that some wagons are provided with tension lock couplings that are fused into the NEM pocket. I have found some replacement NEM pockets on the web so I am now replacing the original coupling with one of these and a Kadee NEM coupling. The only problem is that some of the pockets do not fit well and the couplings is too low. I guess I could glue the pocket in place. An alternative would be to remove the NEM coupling completely and glue a Kadee 5 coupling as you suggest at the beginning of your video. I don't know if you have any view of what might the better route to adopt? A small comment about the video is that it was not clear to me when you moved from using the Kadee 5 coupling to the range of Kadee couplings designed to fit into the NEM pocket.

Awesome! Thanks for sharing.

Looking great!

Bic pens - I knew they had a re-use after they run out! Brilliant job!

Heading in the way I'm hoping to go - following the development of these with interest!

GREAT STUFF PLAYING TRAINS!!!!! take care,dave 👍

2 suggestions: 1. Cut a piece of wood say 2x2 just shorter than the pitch between your battens, drill through top board and screw down tight into the new batten . This will pull the board flat, even if it's not joined to existing batten at the ends. That dip will always cause more trouble. 2. You can buy a point motor extension rod to operate points through a thicker base board. It's the norm, though appreciate it's a pain I'd you haven't got one to hand. Cheers, Gary

Hi Why don't you try a curved point to solve your problem would allow you to have points backed on the other and will keep your curve to your sidings. you could print a template of the peco website to print a point template.

Looking great, you've just earned a sub from me

Why was the yank talking about ww2 😂😂. It was so uncalled for 😂.

Oh crap.....another Brit !!! I wish my for fathers had come from somewhere else ! The US never should have sent any aid of any kind to help you %*#%^@(^!) !!!

Very good video.

Very good.