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Sounds great! I think the SE kit is pretty good, can’t go wrong with it. I also stayed with my stock push rods. The idea of cutting them just doesn’t sit with me. Good luck with your project! Let me know how it turns out

42 was only standard in 99 models to my knowledge, then they bumped it up to 45 from 00 onwards

Congrats on your bike! These “older” Harleys still have character. I wouldn’t swap it for a new model. Good luck with your project!

Hi Michael, Do you get the cough at 40 as the bike is still cold/warming up or at full operating temperature?

@@aronsgarage834 Hi Aron, only when cold. I went for a ride today (8 degrees Celcius) with the #50 slow jet. Went slow for first 5 min on full choke, cough once or twice but afterwards very good throttle response and acceleration. After 5min no choke and 1000RPM. No spitting, no coughing, no smoke I guess this is OK. I have the feeling the bike is pulling more now. Had the same setup with the air filter and exhaust in summer but slow jet #48. On a warm and sunny day still got coughing at 40MPH though. Do you think it was the jet then? or should I go back to #45 or #48 slow jet and raise / shim the needle instead? Got some decel popping also. I have not cleaned the carb in this year yet but it looked very clean though during the jet swap and the vacuum piston replacement ( it had to go, was old and I did redrill the hole which was not the best idea I guess). And I have put 2 fuel filters into the fuel line. I also installed DIY oil catch can last year, based on your video. Everything clean inside. now my setup is: full choke with 1400-1500 RPM cold no choke 1000RPM warm #50 Slow Jet #190 Main Sportster needle from 1988 ( prior fuel pump) running daytona twin tec ignition with multispark ON. 400ft above sea level Update: #50 is way to rich. Sparks fouled and soot inside the carb. So I took the carb off the bike today and performed the maintenance. Went back to #48 and put one shim under the needle. Main Jet left with #190. New sparks, the original AF Screw and will give it a go later in the afternoon

Yeah 50 slow is way too big. Even 48 was too big for me and didn’t run well full warmed up. I’m a big believer in the sock 45/190 set up with raised Sportster needle. It just runs like a dream, no coughing or popping and has done so for years now. My pilot screw is 3 and 3/4 out. Let me know how your test run goes. Ps: how long do you run the bike for on choke? It should only be 15-20 sec. If it needs more, it’s not set up properly.

@@aronsgarage834thanks for the answer. The manual describes the enricher application depending on the ambient temperature, when it’s cold, 3 min full choke than 2 min half. Will test it soon when the rain stops. I have already adapted your setup since the carb has been off the bike: slow jet #45, main jet #190, Sportster 88 needle raised up by 0.9mm, as per your video, Initial 3 and 3/4 turns out with the stock pilot screw. The only thing I need to adjust then is the idle screw with the engine running. Will let you know how it works. Thanks for your support, mate!

You’re right, per manual you need to run it for quite a while on choke. I only do around 20sec and then use the cruise control to keep it running at around 1000rpm. After 2-3 min I ride away 🙂 I’m curious whether my set up has worked for you now! Have you taken it out for a ride yet?

Thanks, that’s great to hear.

Thanks Michael. No, it was actually something I did back when I was doing the conversion, but forgot to edit it and post it. Just remembered lol. Bike’s been running great since the conversion 😀. Hope yours is running all well too!

Thanks i find very useful all off your Videos.

Thanks, I appreciate that.

@@aronsgarage834all good. I have put the chain Kit on it.

Good to hear 👍.

Glad it’s helpful! Yes, that passage can clog up real easy. Also, worth checking your float level, too. Let me know how you get on!

@@aronsgarage834 Hi, well, I sprayed all the canals as you did, put it all back together, then, this morning I went to start it, and it wont start WTH!! it ran fine except for the slight cough at 1/3 throttle, I took it apart again now and all the jets are clear, the float is fine, what the hell happened??? this sux!!!, it ran my new battery down trying so much...

There is something you would have have missed putting it back together as cleaning your carb thoroughly would never cause any problems. Did you re-set your mixture screw properly? How many turns out was it at when you removed it?

@@aronsgarage834 Hi, yes, I always am very attentive, it seems I had no spark "all of a sudden", so, checking the codes on the dash showed it was a crankshaft position sensor....so, I'll let you know more after it arrives lol fackin BS harleys! I'm going back to my Kawasaki ZRX1200R "Bulletproof!"

That’s interesting, I never had that problem. Yeah, let me know if you get it resolved.

Thank you

Thanks man, appreciate the feedback. Glad the videos are helpful. Good luck with the project!

Thanks

I got them on EBay actually. You’d have to have a look at your local hardware store, but the special jet screwdriver you’re unlikely to find there.

@aronsgarage834 thanks for the info much appreciated 👍

Thanks for that! I recall putting a lot of time and effort into this series. Good to know that it was all worth it.

Appreciate that.

It’s a 0.7 pitch

Thanks, I appreciate that

Thanks!

I appreciate that

Not sure if you have the connector pipe.

48 is plenty, if anything I’d go back to 45. They just run so well with stock jets (even with high air flow and open pipes) Potential air leaks? Have you checked your float height? Where is your pilot screw at?

@@aronsgarage834 no air leaks, the screw is about 2 turns out, i have not yet checked the float height.

What color are your plugs?

@@aronsgarage834 they are a tan/brownish color

Seems like you’re not lean. Would also be worth checking your slide (whether the port has been drilled out) or your spring ( should be stock). Are you using stock or performance needle? Many things to check as any of those could cause an issue.

Didn’t have any symptoms, but heard it can melt any time. Also, as I was doing the camchain tensioner conversion, I was able use the entire kit (new style camchain with gears). Basically, as I was doing this big project, I wanted to get rid of all the weaknesses to make it as reliable as possible.

Thanks for that

Most welcome.

Thanks a lot, that’s probably the best feedback I’ve ever gotten. Much appreciated

Welcome, have a good one 👍

Hi Peter, Not sure if you can by-pass it in an Evo. It’s easy to bypass it in a Twincam as you can swap out the ignition module for a later one.

@@nikituu123 hey bud, sure thing. Send me an email and we’ll take it from there :) aaron.vetesi@gmail.com

Thanks, I appreciate that.

The end with bigger diameter bore goes in and will be sticking out in the carb throat

One side is tapered and the other side flat. The tapered side goes in first. The flat side will seat against the emulsion tube. The tapered side upwards toward the needle.

Thank you

Yeah roughly, but you still want to fine tune it while bike is idling.

@@aronsgarage834 i had no real starting point. never ridden it before. it (cv40 on 2001 tc88") was 4.25 out. it splutters if i gun it but slow rollon on is ok at 2.5 out. but now im taking it off as i write to find out the leveling off. i rebuilt the acc pump but left the 190 and 45 jets as were. also didnt touch the slide or top. looked quite clean. was nt started for two years only 20000km on it. so ill get back to " baseline" + circa two turns out then take it for another spin. hassle to take all off again. i have state control tomorrow

Yeah it’s good to take it off and check it over. 45 and 190 are good. 👍

Thanks. Yes, it’s best you stick with stock jets (Twincam 88 > 45 slow and 190 main) and adjust mixture screw accordingly. Unless you’ve swapped out the cams. The idle screw doesn’t affect the tuning.

Yes, you should bump up the slow jet to 45 and the main to 180. Later on it was standard anyway on the 1200 Sportster.

Thanks!

You don’t have to get bigger jets. Your stock one are 45 and 190. And you only need a different needle if you want more power. You just need to adjust the slow jet for now. Count the number of turns it’s set in now, (by screwing it all the way until it lightly seats as you’re counting. Assuming your stock setting was around 1 3/4 turns, set it 3 turns out. See how it runs and perform the fine tuning method I show in my other video (while bike is idling) Let me know how you get on.

@@aronsgarage834 I'm actually having a hard time getting that screw to move. I'll try letting it warm up a little and try it then

Yeah, you can try it that way. If no luck, you might have to take the carb off and soak it with wd40.

Hi Mike, Mine is a 1999 Dyna too! Did you install the needle jet the right way? Goes back in either way and can cause issues with consumption. Float level all ok? Pilot screw adjusted? What jets and needle are you running?

@aronsgarage834 45 and 190. This problem started 4 weeks ago. I have no idea why?? It doesn't smell like fuel, no black smock out of the exhaust.

Did you double check all those things I mentioned?

Hi Aron, yes I did. I have bin driving to day and still 1 to 8

Then I would check a few other things: tire pressure, brakes, wheels (to make sure they aren’t dragging), air cleaner, choke/ enrichener, diaphragm on the slide, engine oil level, exhaust, any gas leak.