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@@th3m4db4nana For outdoors and long distances, i probably would go for the Begadi Fly7 and as heavy BBs as possible :) Thanks for your comment, have a good one!

@@rummboltthank you, you too!

I get the point, especially since i own my first GBBR :P Next season will be more GBBR content, I hope :) Have a good one!

Thanks for the Tip, will be added to the list :) Have a good one!

Thank you very much :) From my personal experience, the traditional R-Hop Patch + straight bucking on the one hand and the newer drop-in R-Hop Buckings on the other hand don't bring a huge difference in terms of performance / range / accuracy. But the drop-ins are way more easy to install! Have a good one :)

Yes, but it can also destroy your internals if you're not careful :) Have a good one!

I'm glad you Like the comparison :) The GBB Bucking Version of this Video is on my Agenda, but it will Take some time to wait for better weather and gather all the needes components :) Have a good one!

Would be an interesting comparison as well, you're right! A good idea for a potential new video in itself :) Have a good one, thanks for commenting!

Also as one of the other people said my local field is at minimum 1.5 hours away and I go to about 3 to 4 events a year, the ability to show up and not have to worry about my gun working or shooting the right fps is worth the extra money.

@@markcarico546 Thanks for your very detailed comments :) I basically agree with your points - however, in Germany we unfortunately don't have the option for switching the AEG Internals for a HPA Engine without extra permission. Also, LMGs are not veery common over here, as fullauto is not legal for replicas above 0,5J :/ But from an US-perspective for example, all you say is absolutely reasonable :) Have a good one!

@rummbolt yeah the German laws for airsoft are certainly interesting, I've seen some good breakdowns of the general overview of airsoft law over there and it's comparatively very restrictive. So how does hpa work over there as far as regulators work? Is the regulator permanently locked from the factory to a certain joule limit? Also is there a limit to what weights you guys can buy? I thought your video, and frankly most of your videos are very useful and informative, if your channel was more popular it would solve a lot of issues in the airsoft community haha. I just thought I'd throw out the American experience with the two. I first got into HPA because I was unsatisfied with aeg dmrs, especially because everywhere you go seems to have different rules and with some of them (in the 550fps range) that's just asking for your gun to break by the end of the weekend, and the air volume issues I mentioned before. I also got it because my local group is very small and most people don't upgrade their guns, so a fully upgraded dmr actually makes games boring, but with HPA I can tone it down to rifleman limits to make things a little more fair. But, after trying it out and comparing it to my AEGs it was just much better and much more reliable, so now I have 3 haha. It's also much quieter with a suppressor, so when I do reconnaissance for my milsim team it comes in handy and at rifleman limits you can't hear it beyond about 30 feet (or at least I can't but i don't have the best hearing thanks to the military haha). But I've spent a lot of time designing and building some very interesting suppressors (feel free to message me for your suppressor video but I'll say, try the sheets of aquarium filter).

@@markcarico546 Haha, you name it :D In theory, you have to ask a registered gunsmith (for real-steel :D) to do the HPA-switch for you here in Germany. Then, he brings the replica to the local authorities who have to give their okay and re-apply the F-Mark (necessary for all replicas above 0,5J). In terms of energy limit laws, you could turn the regulator up to 7,5 Joules, so you basically have no restrictions besides your local field limits as no HPA I know shoots above 3J. All replicas "intended" to perform above 0,5J are locked to semi-only. [You also are not allowed to attach lights or NVGs to your replica, while holding them in your hands or attaching them to your helmet is legal :D Crazy rules...] BB weights are free to buy for everyone, but I assume (!) the authorities use 0,2gs in the event of actual testing. Never had to let it be done before, fortunately. But it indeed is questionable, as no law tells you which weight to use. :D Thank you for the kind words on my channel - of course i'd love to see more people watching, but we'll see what time will bring in the future. Still it's nice to read about experience like yours and chat with airsofters all over the world :) Thanks for the idea with the aquarium filter as well - in case i will build a silencer myself again in the future, I will consider using some! Have a good one!

@@RicH0864 In case you are willing to pay the extra money for an even more authentic result - sure ☺️

Sounds all reasonable to me - cool that you found your ideal System in HPA :) Thanks for commenting, have a good one!

Yes, this is possible :) The only thing that Changes will BE the BBs coming from the right / left in the footage then. In case you're fine with that, it's no problem. Have a good one!

@rummbolt okay thank you!

Hello and thanks for your comment :) Yes, in a more "technology-advanced" airsoft market, i see something like micro HPA tanks built inside the magazines which replace Green Gas / Co2 then. Making the Hose to the mag adapter superfluous. But i think this still is far away unfortunately. On the RPS: I did not forget, but here in Germany, shooting fullauto on replicas above 0,5J is not allowed. My MTW therefore has no fullauto-mode. This is why I placed a small note concerning this at the end of the chrono section in video :) Have a good one!

Hmmm never experienced this issue ... as long as it connects, it was all fine for me. Maybe some other user knows more here?

@@rummbolt ended up having to turn my cell data off for it to work with live view, looks pretty good but i wish i bumped for the 4k

Hmmm never experienced this issue ... as long as it connects, it was all fine for me. Maybe some other user knows more here?

@ Runcam Support answer me, its an issue with Iphone app, just use android, 50Hz need to off the Flickering!

It was because i wanted to test "modern" buckings, but G&G Green is also very popular and deserves a testing actually. It would have been a great replacement for the outdated Aimtop, it even has a similar color :D But those are the things you learn after the video has gone online...thanks for commenting, have a good one!

I've got friends whove replaced those after a single game of using it. Using a G&G rotary hop, and the nub it comes with

Thank you sir, every like is appreciated :) Have a good one and let some BBs fly!

Hey, und danke für deinen Kommentar :) Ein PPS Edelstahllauf sollte reichen. Mit dem FX7 gehst du auf Nummer sicher, dass das Lauffenster passt. Warum nicht teurer? Da halte ich es eigentlich wie Reaper: Am Ende ist es nur ein Metallrohr, dessen Auswirkung auf Präzision und Reichweite nicht im Verhältnis zu den häufig hohen Kosten für PDI, Prometheus, T.N.T und so weiter steht. Am wichtigsten ist, dass der Lauf nicht krumm, sauber und kratzfrei ist. Darum lasse ich häufig sogar die Stock-Läufe drin, wenn das Fenster zum Bucking passt :) Schönen Abend!

Yes I agree, you can have a great time with both systems :) Thanks for commenting, have a good one!

@@CashBricks Hallo und danke für deinen Kommentar. Die Angabe mit dem Einschießen findet sich nur bei einigen Herstellern, und auch dann variiert die Zahl der benötigten Schüsse stark. Begadi bspw. spricht von 200 bis 400, bei anderen sind es mehr. Meiner persönlichen Erfahrung nach tut sich durch das Einschießen nicht mehr sonderlich viel. Ich habe in den letzten 8 Jahren dutzende Buckings verbaut, und wenn ich nach einiger Zeit eine Veränderung der Bucking-Qualität festgestellt habe, war diese eher negativ als positiv. Um dem trotzdem gerecht zu werden , auch weil ich wusste dass User dazu kommentieren würden, habe ich immerhin ein 150bb Magazin pro Bucking durchgeschossen. Sowohl Begadi als auch andere Hersteller mit denen ich Kontakt habe, hatten an diesem Punkt nichts auszusetzen. Welche Fehler sind dir ansonsten aufgefallen?

@@rummbolt also buckings sind wirklich cent artikel in der produktion. nen freund, dem der skirmshop gehört hat mir mal bei nem Besuch in Japan bei Mapel Leaf nen paar videos von der produktion ect geschickt als die autobots und decepticon buckings raus kamen. Da sind immer wieder leichte unterschiede zwischen einzelnen buckings. Daher sollte man für einen aussagekräftigen Test immer mindesten 2-3 Buckings nutzen. Dann haast du keine Borecam genutzt um zu checken ob die Buckings alle immer 100% sauberverbaut wurden sondern dich auf deine Erfahrung verlassen. Dann wurden die Tests outdoor durchgeführt und nicht indoor in einer homogenen Umgebung. Wenn du aus NRW kommst können wir dir gerne unser Spielfeld für solche Tests anbieten. wir haben hallen die über 100M lang sind :-) Wir spannen die Waffen zum Beispiel anständig auf der Shooting Range ein, so dass jeder Aufbau exakt gleich ist. Ich finde es super, dass du dir so viel Mühle gemacht hast, aber wissenschaftlich gesehen hat das Video keine wirkliche Aussagekraft auf Grunde dieser Ungenauigkeiten. Also quasi viel Arbeit für RND Ergebnisse.

Thanks for your feedback, it will be consideres for the next video! Have a good one!

Yes, on some paints this is true, but the writing on those particular rattle can said, even 12 hours were enough to be completely hardened. As the paintjob on the SSG10 Stock was about one year old and the chemicals worked exactely as they did on the magazines, I don't see too much of a difference here, so i guess the results should also be valid on the "more freshly" painted objects. One more point: I think glossy paint is not very popular in airsoft, as the reflections are not in favor of effective camo. But maybe some people still use them - in this case, you're right, they are probably harder to remove. The same for 2K-coatings and clear coatings, as their surface is a lot more "dense" / "hard", are those the correct terms? Thanks for commenting, have a good one!

I think the usual recommendation would be 60°, that's also what I use in the 1,5J range :) Have a good one!

I already solved it by attaching the holster to the plate carrier. But thank you :)

Thank you - it was a long journey to get to this point :) Have a good one!

@rummbolt did u built it yourself?

@bruh4569 Yes, it is my long-term upgrade build, continuously modified since ~2017/18. You will see it in many videos on my channel, for example the HPA vs. AEG video :)

@@rummbolt i know how much pain can be building an aeg cuz ive built one myself

@bruh4569Yeah the process until you reached the level you imagined can take a while :P Have a good one!

@@lovehellokitty16 Even though i did not use your idea of making several videos out of this one, still thanks for helping with bringing up the concept ❤️

Thank you very much, you're speaking about my dreams of where the journey could go ☺️ Comments like yours keep me confident, so I'm even more happy to read those ☺️ Have a good one!

You're right, for a lot of other players, it might not be a good idea to have a gun of which they feel the need to be upgraded for a competetive performance. But others enjoy the process of upgrading and see the effect of their work on the replica. I like to compare it to collection and maintaining old mechanical watches: They are not the most user-friendly and reliable products, but many people still like them and prefer them about the efficient and accurate battery-driven ones. I Hope you get my point here :) One more topic however: In my eyes, the upgraded Begadi / Cyma Platinum models do come close to the MTW, not only the Nova, but also their MP5 and Scar-L Line. It's not completely that kind of performance, you could upgrade the nozzle or the motor for example. But besides, in terms of airseal and hopup performance, I see no big drop compared to the MTW I tested here. Thanks for commenting, have a good one!

Moin Nik, freut mich dass dich das Thema wieder interessiert :) Eigentlich dokumentiere ich mehr oder weniger nur das, was ich ohnehin im Rahmen des Hobbys gemacht hätte - und jetzt gerade stand eben das Entfernen des Paintjobs an diesem Stock an. Dann hab ich gesehen dass es nur wenige Videos zum Thema bisher gibt, und davon liegen viele auch schon einige Jahre zurück. Und schon war das Thema fürs Video gefunden. Ich freue mich aufs nächste gemeinsame Game! Frohes Neues!

... or on the chest plate, just as shown ;)

Sounds good, I'm sure it will be worth it! Have a good one!

Thank you my friend! I thought about a GBBR / VSR Version, yes. But am not sure which replica to pick, as I would like to avoid movement due to the blow back effect and manual reloading. So an easy to disassembly NBB rifle would be perfect. You have an idea? Have a good one!

This also is an interesting idea, I always have some cans around for working on the car. Nice addition of information, thank you and have a good one!

Grüß euch :) Ja, würd mich auch interessieren wie viele Klicks das Video in deutscher Sprache bekommen hätte und wie groß der Effekt durch die größere Zielgruppe tatsächlich ist. Freue mich auf jeden Fall, dass es bisher so gut ankommt! Aber ja, das war bisher das aufwändigste Projekt hier auf dem Kanal - von der Konzeption über die Bestellung der Buckings, das Aufnehmen und Analysieren der Ergebnisse bis hin zum Cutten und Bearbeiten waren das rund drei Monate. Für euch auch ein schönes neues Jahr 2025, freue mich auf weiteren Content von euch :)

Thank you mate! I don't know this particular product, but yes - acetone seems to be very aggressive and has to be used with care. Testing before the actual application is veery helpful indeed!! Have a good one :)

@rummbolt it is a very corrosive product, but it will remove almost anything with ease! I would recommend picking someup, just to have around for doing large removals. Or some of the really old, and hard to remove paints!

@@BirdBuiltCustoms I checked it up, it seems to be similar to the paint stripper I used in the video? Maybe this one is available here in Germany as well :)

​@rummbolt it believe they are very similar! Circa might be canadian export only.... I'm asuming it's methyl chloride free? I couldnt find a data sheet. And can you get a gel version? I find i like using gels more for application!

Yeah, this effect of the anti mosquito spray was also new to me - as the test shows, it indeed seems to have some paint-dissolving properties, however not the strongest :P Thanks for the tip, your paintjob pics in the intro and the awesome music for the conclusion part - I'm looking forward to what future will bring in this aspect. Have a good one!

Thank you - indeed this particular one took me about 3 months from the first concept over ordering all the buckings, recording, analyzing the results and editing the video. So I really thank you for honoring this effort - keeps me motivated :) Have a good one!

Yes, I also used Acetone / nail polish remover regularily for gear cleaning - you can see it in my G28 project video for example. Works very well! Thanks for commenting, have a good one!

Thank you very much bro! Have a good one :)

I want to thank you for your friendly words on my channel - really happy to read comments like yours, they help to keep the motivation for new content up constantly. Have a good one :)