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It is a trend v groove bit. Any v groove bit will do really it’s just handy to have one that has a small flat on the top of the cutter so the bit what you are engraving has a flat bottom if that makes any sense. I am out at the minute but can tell you the exact bit I use when I get home if you want?

Thank you very much! I’m sure you could do it with a little bit of practice! Yeah, if you master that it makes it so much easier. You wouldn’t believe the difference a sharp chisel makes. It sounds silly but a sharp chisel is also a lot less dangerous. I always nearly end up injuring myself using blunt chisels just because of how awkward it makes everything😆 thanks again!😁👍🏼

Hi, thank you very much! I do appreciate it! It is not something I’ve really done before but my spade bits are a bit blunt and didn’t want to make a mess of the mortices. The mortices went all the way through so they can be seen on the outside and I just wanted to make sure I had a neat square before risking it with the spade bit😁👍🏼

Yeah that’s a good idea! Might have to give that one a try👍🏼👍🏼

When you are doing it like this it doesn’t really matter. Just line the end panel up to the cabinet before fitting and it will be bigger than the cabinet. For example let’s say it is 20mm bigger than the cabinet. In this case you would need something bigger than 20mm. Let’s say you use some 30mm timber to clamp on top of the panel and lift it off the ground. You would need to use a scribe block the exact same size (30mm). This would lift the end panel off of the floor 10mm once it is hooked on the unit. Then you use your 30mm scribe block to mark a line. As the end panel is off the ground 10mm the mark will be 20mm from the bottom of the panel. Cut this and unclamp the piece and it should finish level with the top once it’s in place. I might have made it even more confusing but hopefully that makes a bit of sense?😆 if not, let me know and I will try explain it better. Thank you for watching👍🏼

@@mwjoinery thanks for reply mate. I think I get it. Watched it a couple more times. Reallly nice. Will practice it soon 👍🏻

Awesome, thank you and just leave a comment if you have any more questions or struggle and I’ll try help😁👍🏼

Thank you!😁👍🏼

@@mwjoinery u r welcome and thanks

There are a few ways to do that really. You can either oversize the piece, do your scribe and then mark on a level line where you want your straight cut and cut it with something like a track saw. Or the way I do it mainly is overhang the bit you want to scribe lets say 40mm for example and level it up. Then if you clamp it in place, set your scribe tool to 40mm and cut it out. The board should slide back 40mm and finish flush on the front edge. Hope this helps? If not let me know and I can try to answer it better? Thank you for watching👍🏼

@@mwjoinery Actually, that helps a lot. Thanks for the reply!

No worries at all. Thanks

No problem! Thank you for watching and for the comment😁

@@DorothyChicken-j5b hi, no that shouldn’t matter it just needs to be enough so that you can hook the cabinet onto the top of the unit. I would say anything from an in to 2 inch is ideal. It’s the depth of them that is the critical measurement and they need to be the exact same as each other. Thank you for watching!

@mwjoinery OK. So as long as both pieces are the same and you book them on so they're level, the scribe should be good? Thnx for you reply.

Yeah, like at the start of my video you just have to offer the end panel up to the carcass and it will overhang it at the top. Your piece needs to be bigger than that overhang and both the exact same size as each other. If it is less the overhang when you try and hook it on it won’t raise the panel up off the floor if that makes any sense? And it’s no worries I’m happy to help as much as I can so feel free to ask👍🏼

It probably doesn’t show easy they are to make in the video so I apologise for that but if you manage to get one made it makes cutting wedges so easy and can just save the jig and use it again and again

@@mwjoinery No need to apologize. Sorry, I am just being cranky. Lots of TH-cam videos have clickbait headlines like This will amaze you and world's fastest. I am laying cedar in a sauna on a sloped floor with a drain in the middle and going mad trying to level it with varying wedges sizes and lengths.

Haha yeah that’s no probs I understand. That does sound like a nightmare tbf😆 hope you have managed to sort it?😆🤞🏼

I like to finish them flush personally but probably a preference thing👍🏼

All you have to do is make sure all of your marks fit on the sheet below and make sure the template stays exactly still once you start. I did this by doing the template first then just laid it on the sheet of ply where I thought would be close. Then before you make and marks just use the stick and check it on the points you think will be closest to the edge of the board and move it until they all fit. And then as for the template not being full sized that doesn’t matter too much as long as the tick reaches in the furthest corners and still has enough to draw round on the template. I’m not sure if I have understood your question correctly and if my reply answers it? If not will you try and explain it again and I will try help you out as much as I can Thank you for watching and I hope this helps?😁

It was bought like that👍🏼

Yeah, I wasn’t really thinking when I made the video and forgot to record that bit.😆 thank you for watching👍🏼

I understand it isn’t very complex but I wanted one for myself so thought I may as well record making it. I like to make things that most people could have a go at as well as the normal stuff I make at work

Thank you!

Appreciate it! Thank you👍🏼

Well that is definitely the most random comment I have had so far…😆

@@mwjoinery 🤣 picking up new van this weekend. For the wall panels, do you use self tapping screws

Very nice, what van have you gone for? I did with this van mate yes. But on my van at work I didn’t have any so just piloted the metal will a small drill bit and used just ordinary wood screws. It actually got hold just as good. It hasn’t toppled over yet and it’s been in about 3 years😆

@@mwjoinery a vaxhaul vivaro 2018 plate. No ply in the back. Need to protect it 🤣

Haha yeah definitely need to get some down! My work van is a vivaro and I really like it👍🏼

Thanks a lot!👍🏼 yeah it was just an off cut of mdf I used for the video but it will work with material really. MDF is very easy to mark and cut so it may take a little bit more time with timber but should still be able to get a good finish!😁

I get that it seems like a bit of a mess about on the video but if you keep the 2 blocks used to scribe and clamp on it is actually a pretty quick way of doing it in my opinion

Yer it is a neat way of doing it 👍

Haha thank you! He is a poser! so though I may as well get him to pose for the picture rather than me😆 Thanks for watching👍🏼

It doesn’t have anything to do with the size of the block as long as they are the exact same size as each other. The end panels are oversized so if you slide that to the wall it will stick out past the cupboard for example it may be 20mm. In this case as long as the blocks are bigger than 20mm this method will work. It’s quite hard to explain over a message but I could show it in person very easily😆 if you don’t understand let me know and I will try and explain it better. Thank you for watching👍🏼

Thanks a lot for the comment! Appreciate it👍🏼

It’s actually a quick and easy way of doing It I would say personally. I get that it looks a bit tedious in the video having to make that bit you clamp on and scribe with but you can use the same one for jobs in the future. Also a lot of the time you don’t really need to sand it but just wanted to make sure it was as close as possible for the vid👍🏼

Why is that if you don’t mind me asking? If it is because of leaving a raw edge on the bottom, I would keep the factory edge down and cut the top if square. If it needs scribing this is just how I would normally do it but I’m open to suggestions👍🏼

Yeah that’s still a good method. I just find this one quicker and easier personally. I get the video makes it seem like a lot more work but I just keep them bits of timber to clamp on and it can be done in no time. Thank you for watching👍🏼

@@mwjoinery sorry mate,I should have said your method is good aswell! Everyone has got their own way of doing things and I would use your method in the right situation 👍

No worries at all, I like to know how other people do it😁👍🏼

I boarded it just because most vans these days come with like a hard plastic floor in them but they follow the contours of the floor for some reason rather than making them flat. I don’t understand why they don’t just make them flat personally because sliding any sheets in on the contoured floor was a nightmare. Thank you for watching👍🏼

Hi, thank you. It is a bit of a confusing thing to explain especially when it is not in person. If you search ticking stick method on TH-cam it will show you some tutorials of how that method is used. Then I just used that method on a slightly bigger scale. I did also try and explain it a bit in the captions on the video if that helps at all? Thanks for watching

Thank you! Yeah I must have recorded that and then adjusted it slightly after recording. Well spotted though😆 thanks for watching

Hi, I do tend to just cut the top if the floor is level and I should have mentioned that. If I do it this way I also seal the end and then silicone it but completely forgot to add that to the video😆 I did put the screws either behind the hinges and inline with where the shelf will go other than the one at the top as I thought that will be out of sight anyway. Thank you for the comment and appreciate the feedback😁👍🏼

I’m sorry you think that. I just found it boring with no music but youtube free music isn’t the best so it’s pretty restricting and hard to find anything good😆 appreciate the feedback either way👍🏼

Thank you, appreciate the comment! I am planning on taking it a bit more serious and currently have 3 videos nearly finished so they will be coming soon. Thanks again👍🏼👍🏼

@@mwjoinery no worries bro, thanks for the tip, I’ll be using that this week! I’ve subscribed and turned on notifications so I’ll not miss your vids. Thanks for the efforts mate, a lot of work goes into making videos like this and it’s hard enough getting work done without the added hassle of filming it. So just wanted to say how much it’s appreciated man and wish you loads of luck with the woodworking and the channel

It is definitely worth trying and you will have to let me know how you get on with it! Just remember to seal the bottom of the end panel. I forgot to add that in the video👍🏼 It does add a fair bit of time onto doing stuff but I really enjoy doing it so I am trying to make some more time for it! Finally have a workshop set up at home so there will definitely be videos coming soon! Will be more the making side of things rather than this video so I hope you still enjoy. Thank you for taking the time to comment it means a lot😁👍🏼

@@mwjoinery No worries bro, been in the trades 20 years and I know what it takes to be good. It’s not a skill you learn, it’s something you have to become. And you’re well on the way mate and to see it is pleasing in and of itself. Also, I wanna learn how to build and fit my own kitchens so I’ve got my fingers crossed for your future content! Also, what do you seal it with? I assume you do it before taking the masking tape off, as it’s already protecting the face?

Thank you! To be honest with you kitchens aren’t something I get to do very often as I’m more bench joinery based but would love to make my own kitchen in the future so who knows! The guy who first showed me that technique used to seal it with a bit of pva on the cut side and he left the tape on so I have always done the same. Then seal it to the floor with some clear silicone once it’s in position😁

Thank you! Appreciate the comment!👍🏼

Yeah it is a handy method. Just remember to seal it at the bottom if you do use this method. It can be any size as long as the piece you clamp on is the exact same as the one you run across the floor. This is why (like In the video) I cut them out of the same piece so I know they are the exact same. That is the only important measurement, can just be thin bits of offcuts as long as it hooks on the cabinet ok. Thank you for watching👍🏼

Thanks for the reply!

No problem at all😁

Thanks a lot for the comment I really appreciate it! Got a few videos half filmed so keep an eye out for them soon😁 thanks again!👍🏼

Thank you! If the floor is level I would stick with doing it your way. That’s what I do. But if it’s in need of a scribe this method works well. Just make sure to seal the bottom. Thanks again👍🏼

Yeah I forgot to mention in the video to seal the bottom edge but I had already put it out when I realised. I would normally keep an uncut side down if the floor is level but if it’s out I use this way to scribe it

It does mate yes. Don’t think it’s anything to be concerned about. Thank you for watching

I also pva the bottom and since filming the video I have sealed it with some clear silicone. I should have mentioned that but completely forgot if I’m honest. As for cutting the bottom, I would prefer to cut the top of the panel if the floor is perfectly level but if it needs scribing to the floor the bottom has to be cut to match up with the floor. Thank you for watching👍🏼

Yeah that is a good idea using that. It does come in very handy for templates👍🏼

I do have a handy little jig for doing wall panels. The only problem is I never really get chance to fit kitchens anymore. If one comes up I will try and make a video on it. Thanks for watching!

Thanks a lot for the comment. I have since got rid of my van and just have a car… keep thinking about getting a van to convert and I’m getting very tempted! Hope yours goes to plan! I can’t remember what I used exactly but for most things 80 and 120 grit covers most bases so I would recommend them. Thanks again👍🏼

Thank for the comment! Doing it like this does actually scribe it to the floor. That’s why I sanded it. I cut it to the nearest points possible to my line then sanded any curves. I do also do that and then seal with clear silicone when the rest of them are done but completely forgot this part in the video😆 Thanks again👍🏼

I bought it from axminstertools