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I've always been a fan of the 40X. The 22 creedmoor will be around forever.

@@DustinDrews1 Doubtful. Look at all the failures of the last 19 years. How many 22 bores are there? Way too many. Short fat cases feed like rocks. No one says anything until. they own one. Then it is too late. Do you even know what Creedmoor is? Most do not. Marketing is to blame for all this bullshit smoke and mirrors.

I drill and tap a short set of pipe threads. The pipe threads have been 100% leak proof

Thank you for the kind words! I'm glad you approve of the work! Have a Blessed new year

I 100% agree I need to shorten the bolts. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

@@DustinDrews1 You are very welcome. I have been very free with what I have learned, either the good or the bad. I can’t take it with me at the end.

That's pretty much how it works. Thanks for the comment! Sir, you better take a nap… you sound like you may need it! Any other suggestions let me know

Thank you for your comment! The Omni Adjustable Spider Adapter is mounted to the lathe just like any other chuck. It bolts to the A2-6 adapter plate using countersunk bolts that are hidden under the chuck itself. While it shares similarities with a Buck Chuck or Set-Tru Chuck, what sets the Omni Adjustable Spider Adapter apart is its independent adjustment mechanisms. The radial runout is adjusted by 8 screws that push against the lathe mounting plate, while the angular runout is controlled by 4 spider screws-similar to a cat’s head or spider on a traditional lathe spindle. Since the 4 spider screws are mounted in the adapter that moves radially, the radial and angular adjustments stay completely independent of each other. Adjusting one does not affect the other, making it an innovative and precise tool for dialing in your workpiece. Hope this clears things up! Let me know if you have further questions.

@@DustinDrews1 so the clamping force of the countersunk bolts is overcome by the radial jacking screws, allowing the two faces to slide across one another?

Yes, just like a set true chuck

I guess I could. Honestly the tl1 is not a lathe i would recommend in anyway shape or form to do contouring. I got mine to work fairly consistently. But that being said a person just can’t look at what I am doing and expect the same results. Like shown in the videos I normally post. To many little work arounds to deal with during the process.

It’s a haas tl1. I have a love hate relationship with it. Cnc stuff is not cheap and the learning curve is steep, never ending and not forgiving. Not saying you can’t do it. But it’s been a year and a half journey to get here. I say this not to scare you… I here to help but just to give you a realistic perspective.

We keep improving! Time and rigidly is probably the biggest benefit. It would definitely help in a manual machine. Especially if you’re having to do short barrels in the headstock. Thank you for your comment! The Omni Adjustable Spider Adapter is mounted to the lathe just like any other chuck. It bolts to the A2-6 adapter plate using countersunk bolts that are hidden under the chuck itself. While it shares similarities with a Buck Chuck or Set-Tru Chuck, what sets the Omni Adjustable Spider Adapter apart is its independent adjustment mechanisms. The radial runout is adjusted by 8 screws that push against the lathe mounting plate, while the angular runout is controlled by 4 spider screws-similar to a cat’s head or spider on a traditional lathe spindle. Since the 4 spider screws are mounted in the adapter that moves radially, the radial and angular adjustments stay completely independent of each other. Adjusting one does not affect the other, making it an innovative and precise tool for dialing in your workpiece. Let me know if you have further questions.

Glad to hear the Viper fixture is working out well for you. With 2 sets of spiders holding the barrel over 6 or so inches you should be plenty rigid. One neat thing this chuck adapter does is moves the chuck and the spiders radially. At the same time. Unlike your spiders when you adjust one typically moves the angular run out.

Thank you for your concern… But I don’t think u fully understand how it works. The Omni Adjustable Spider Adapter is mounted to the lathe just like any other chuck. It bolts to the A2-6 adapter plate using countersunk bolts that are hidden under the chuck itself. While it shares similarities with a Buck Chuck or Set-Tru Chuck, what sets the Omni Adjustable Spider Adapter apart is its independent adjustment mechanisms. The radial runout is adjusted by 8 screws that push against the lathe mounting plate, while the angular runout is controlled by 4 spider screws-similar to a cat’s head or spider on a traditional lathe spindle. Since the 4 spider screws are mounted in the adapter that moves radially, the radial and angular adjustments stay completely independent of each other. Adjusting one does not affect the other, making it an innovative and precise tool for dialing in your workpiece. Hope this clears things up! Let me know if you have further questions.

Merry Christmas to you too! We are going to do a lot more videos. Now that we have our process even further dialed in.

Thank you so much 😀 excited to do so 20 gt builds

lol I completely spaced it with the editing! There will be more videos I promise!

This would work on your grizzly with out any issues. It looks heavy but in reality it’s really not that heavy. And it will get lighter once it’s shortened. Threading at higher RPM on a manual lathe is pretty simple. Research “threading away from the Chuck” you do this by running your lathe in reverse. And holding your tool insert/holder upside down. Holding it upside down and running in reverse allows you to start the cut where it normally ends against a the shoulder. It is the only way to thread in our line of work. Inserts and holders. Get a top notch positive rake insert. With a left handed holder. Kennametal is where I got mine. The positive rake inserts really help with the slower manual machine speeds

Forget about using the tail stock. A tail stock is basically a boat anchor on a lathe for gunsmithing. It is slow, it does not repeat, and it flexes under pressure. Use your carriage! You will have to invest in some tool holders. But once you do you will never go back! And if you have a digital read out all the better! Headspace is a breeze. Looking forward to the conversation

Merry Christmas to you too! I will do some fluting on the mill. All you wonderful customers are keeping be busy with the barrel work it’s hard to keep content posted.

@DustinDrews1 hey that's a good problem to have. With that Haas you've got it dialed in, helps knock out jobs a little quicker hopefully.

It’s been a blessing and a curse. But we are getting the curses worked out

Thanks for your input, I appreciate the concern.

Yup, it’s a machine tool… A person has to be vigilant

Thanks 👍 Im pretty Stoked how this has turned out.

No this one will only work for ducks and geese! Have a Blessed Christmas

I’m not convinced the “bow” of a barrel it is a thing these days… If what people say is true about a being clocked up or down to shoot flatter… If the barrel was not clocked it would shoot left or right at distance and you would have to dial in adjustment at range to hit right and left. Know one ever talks about this or dials for it. So I don’t think it is a real thing. Just something to talk about.

@DustinDrews1 thanks 👌 Merry Christmas to you and yours.

Have a Blessed holiday season

Have a blessed holiday season!

Thank you very much!

If you can support your barrels on the back of Your lathe you solved the issue with rigidity.! The issue I solved with this chuck system is not a manual vs cnc issue. It is a spindle length issue. Many lathes on the market these days have too long of spindles to be able to support a barrel at the end of them. These long spindles help make the lathe more rigid. But hurt in the function of doing barrel work. Or if you’re working on a short barrel this can be an issue even on your short spindles lathe. Another feature in this system is one barrel adjustment movement does not affect the other. Like it does with your 4 jaw system. Also you can use any self centering chuck and turn it into a set-tru/buck chuck or radial runout adjustable chuck. By adjusting the 8 radial runout screws. Weight is a concern of ours also… Currently, it’s within a pound of the Trubore System. I can’t remember which is lighter, but I think it was our system. This being a prototype, I made it longer than it needed to be. I wasn’t sure if 6 inches of barrel support would be enough, so I added 2 sets of spider holes to extend the distance between the chuck jaws and the spider screws. The final offering will be shorter by 2-3 inches by removing front set of jacking screws. And just shorting the chuck adapter 2 to 3 inches. This should make it substantially lighter. Let me know if you’d like any more things explained

@ Thanks Dustin.

Anytime

Glad to hear you liked it. Old lathes are sure cool!

You are correct. But the time they save me will more then pay for replacement of Them.

Have you ever chambered a rifle in your life? Do you have any way to personally measure 20 Microns in a chamber? Do you know how much a floating reamer holder droops when you remove it from the chamber? Thanks for the comment! It helps my channel grow

@DustinDrews1 Dustin, I do my own chambering. Yes, measuring a micron is easy, I use a micron indicator daily as part of my work. It's an essential tool aligning jigs for jig grinding. I'm not disagreeing with ridged reaming, it's the only way to get an accurate hole but it requires a very accurate setup. I disagree with how you set your indactors up. It's not an accurate method. It would take less than a quarter if an ounce of pressure to deflect the bar in your setup and it definitely weighs more than a quarter of an ounce which means gravity is going to deflect the bar and skew your readings. Otherwise your stuff isn't too bad.

Isn’t to bad, i will take that as a compliment. Thanks for your input have a blessed holiday season

Bill, I am interested in how you would go about mitigating bar droop in this situation?

Indicator droop is real. Maybe a co-axial indicator?

The rebarrel was the plan all along

Thank you!

No it fed great

Thank you for sharing! But the key is never allowing it to start.

I still use a pneumatic rest. But more of a stead rest now

It’s a long haul

They are fun to do!

That is exactly what we are doing! Expect another video soon about our new chuck system we designed exclusively for chambering rifles. The after chambering about 100 or so barrels with this system i can confidently say this was the missing link in our process. Thanks for watching!

I definitely would not use this method if you’re trying to copy it. Our latest methods are far superior

Without knowing where you are at knowledge wise I don’t know where to tell you to begin. Gordy Gritters has a few educational things out. But I have found that much of the information found online and in book form is just regurgitated information from years passed. The process of chambering is laughable to do as a machinist. But to get consistent and repeatable results is a costly undertaking. I will be producing lots more videos in the future. God bless, Dustin

How long you had your trak

The bracket is extremely rigid. We have to draw the line somewhere. Short of using laser eyes and such I’m not sure what else a person could do to take this measurement.

You are correct. You have to ensure it is square to the bore. That being said all the floating reamers on the market only float radially. Not angularity So if you’re not lined up perfectly parallel to the bore with a floating reamer the same thing happens. But no one thinks of this being an issue because it has the word float in it

@@DustinDrews1 Haha! I never see some of the old timers that keep telling me to use something like the "bald eagle" reamer holder because of the "feel" - ever post their runount on youtube for all to see. Keep up the good work! Have you thought about making your adjustable reamer holder out of a shank like Gavin uses and just putting 8 screws (4 front and 4 back) in it for adjustment?

Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching

Glad it helped, now go get some coyotes!

Where did you get your swagger?

I look forward to hearing from you!

Thanks for sharing your thoughts. But When turning long or slender workpieces on a lathe, many machinists might assume using a steady rest is the best way to support the part. However, in many cases, clamping the part directly into the chuck without a steady rest is actually better. Here’s why: 1. Improved Accuracy: Using a steady rest introduces potential points of error due to misalignment. By clamping directly into the chuck, you’re securing the workpiece more rigidly and reducing the chances of deflection, which leads to better precision and tighter tolerances. 2. Consistent Surface Finish: With a steady rest, the pressure applied by the rollers or jaws can cause marks or deformities on the surface, especially on delicate materials. Clamping directly into the chuck eliminates this problem, allowing for a smoother and more uniform finish across the entire workpiece. 3. No Interruption in Cutting Path: Steady rests can obstruct the cutting tool’s path, forcing you to stop and reposition the part or tool. By skipping the steady rest, you avoid these interruptions, saving time and ensuring a continuous and uninterrupted cut. 4. Reduced Setup Time: Aligning a steady rest properly takes time and effort, especially when working with multiple diameters or shapes along the length of the part. Clamping directly into the chuck simplifies setup, reduces complexity, and speeds up the process. While there are situations where a steady rest is necessary (for extremely long parts or those with very thin diameters), for most applications, securing your part directly in the chuck is more efficient and yields better results. And I would bet money that If we used any type of measuring equipment that you could arrange. My methods would have less runout than using the steady rest method chambering method. God Bless, Dustin

Thank you very much!

This on is the Tru bore system. I actually am going away from it. I’m moving to a design I built that holds the barrel more rigidly. The true bore is a neat system but it really needs a spider of some sort to hold the barrel from whipping and flexing the chuck. My lathe has to long of a headstock to do this. Thanks for watching

I still prefer to do rigid reaming.

Thank you! Cheers!

I may be asking you questions! I just got a Cnc mill. With a rotary axis!