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That is exactly what we are doing! Expect another video soon about our new chuck system we designed exclusively for chambering rifles. The after chambering about 100 or so barrels with this system i can confidently say this was the missing link in our process. Thanks for watching!

I definitely would not use this method if you’re trying to copy it. Our latest methods are far superior

Without knowing where you are at knowledge wise I don’t know where to tell you to begin. Gordy Gritters has a few educational things out. But I have found that much of the information found online and in book form is just regurgitated information from years passed. The process of chambering is laughable to do as a machinist. But to get consistent and repeatable results is a costly undertaking. I will be producing lots more videos in the future. God bless, Dustin

The bracket is extremely rigid. We have to draw the line somewhere. Short of using laser eyes and such I’m not sure what else a person could do to take this measurement.

You are correct. You have to ensure it is square to the bore. That being said all the floating reamers on the market only float radially. Not angularity So if you’re not lined up perfectly parallel to the bore with a floating reamer the same thing happens. But no one thinks of this being an issue because it has the word float in it

@@DustinDrews1 Haha! I never see some of the old timers that keep telling me to use something like the "bald eagle" reamer holder because of the "feel" - ever post their runount on youtube for all to see. Keep up the good work! Have you thought about making your adjustable reamer holder out of a shank like Gavin uses and just putting 8 screws (4 front and 4 back) in it for adjustment?

Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching

Glad it helped, now go get some coyotes!

I look forward to hearing from you!

Thanks for sharing your thoughts. But When turning long or slender workpieces on a lathe, many machinists might assume using a steady rest is the best way to support the part. However, in many cases, clamping the part directly into the chuck without a steady rest is actually better. Here’s why: 1. Improved Accuracy: Using a steady rest introduces potential points of error due to misalignment. By clamping directly into the chuck, you’re securing the workpiece more rigidly and reducing the chances of deflection, which leads to better precision and tighter tolerances. 2. Consistent Surface Finish: With a steady rest, the pressure applied by the rollers or jaws can cause marks or deformities on the surface, especially on delicate materials. Clamping directly into the chuck eliminates this problem, allowing for a smoother and more uniform finish across the entire workpiece. 3. No Interruption in Cutting Path: Steady rests can obstruct the cutting tool’s path, forcing you to stop and reposition the part or tool. By skipping the steady rest, you avoid these interruptions, saving time and ensuring a continuous and uninterrupted cut. 4. Reduced Setup Time: Aligning a steady rest properly takes time and effort, especially when working with multiple diameters or shapes along the length of the part. Clamping directly into the chuck simplifies setup, reduces complexity, and speeds up the process. While there are situations where a steady rest is necessary (for extremely long parts or those with very thin diameters), for most applications, securing your part directly in the chuck is more efficient and yields better results. And I would bet money that If we used any type of measuring equipment that you could arrange. My methods would have less runout than using the steady rest method chambering method. God Bless, Dustin

Thank you very much!

This on is the Tru bore system. I actually am going away from it. I’m moving to a design I built that holds the barrel more rigidly. The true bore is a neat system but it really needs a spider of some sort to hold the barrel from whipping and flexing the chuck. My lathe has to long of a headstock to do this. Thanks for watching

I still prefer to do rigid reaming.

Thank you! Cheers!

I may be asking you questions! I just got a Cnc mill. With a rotary axis!

Never been around a SKS I’m not your guy to answer that question

Now 1200 because I’m cnc. But 550 when I was on the manual machine

Thanks for watching!

I will check them out

That adds one more tolerance.

All the 6mms are great

Unfortunately I do not feel the ruger SFAR is a platform worth building off of. I don’t offer them after toying with this one

A sharp one… I like Manson myself

Long Island Indicators

750.00 barrel threads and return shipping included.

Thank you very much!

Holders are Kenametal boring bar is iscar

You’re over thinking it. The next chamber video will be using a reamer without a bushing. If you have everything dialed in perfect to the bore you don’t need a pilot

@@DustinDrews1 Fair enough. So having some play at the bushing, say .0002", has no effect and should be considered perfect? That's great. I guess I was over thinking it. Thanks for the reply. Looking forward to that video.

I appreciate the kind gesture

Thanks for the kind words

Iscar

Thanks for the kind words

No I just took a pile of measurements and milled it to sit flush and on center

It’s all done out of frustrations with common industry methods. Thanks for the kind words

@@DustinDrews1 You have this down to a science, fantastic work.

Take a look at McMaster-Carr at threaded taper pins. That is the direction that I would look at. Any way just a suggestion.

You are not thinking about this correctly… The threads have nothing to do with anything with indicating the reamer. The spindle of the lathe is turning around the reamer. The barrel just makes a simple place you clamp the indicator jig to. I could clamp it to the chuck and it wouldn’t matter… it all turns with the barrel any runout will be in the lathes bearings.

You’re not understanding it correctly…

You can mount the indicators on anything that turns with the spindle, it doesn't matter.

Thank you very much! Glad you enjoyed them

This is all action dependent…. This is a high end action with no removable recoil lug. I get very little crush with them. But on like a factory 700 that has not been trued and has a factory recoil lug. I use .003 to .0035 deep for the stacking of tolerances. Thanks for watching

Thanks for the kind words!

MGSIR 06-06W HOLDER

Also look into 6mm Pico tooling boring bars. MSCDirect

That makes sense! Using the case taper with these new basically strait walled cases. It don’t leave any room for error.

Thank you! Cheers!

Thank you! Cheers!

Long Island indicator

I probably miss spoke.

They are pretty true actions!

I appreciate it!

Welcome! Thanks for watching

Long Island indicator. No just get the one with heavy springs

Yes I have, I have since switched to cnc. I only leave about .010 for the reamer to cut

I don’t use a spider. My chuck adjust every direction required. In my opinion them way I hold the barrel is hands down the best way…. No chance of bending or scratching a barrel. Plus it allows to cut a new crown true to the threads and bore.