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Yep. And very functional for a lite loadout.

Sorry for the late reply. Yes, I could do it, but it'll be a bit improvised. I sold the replica, but I can do it

@@crazywildegg54 Not really. The metal used is not strong, but it's thick enough where it needs to be. However, it is quite rattley (mostly the barrel). Check out my previous video about it and you'll get a better picture. And keep in mind that I'm using just a large 7,4V Lipo; I never used it on a field with an 11.1V

​@@AirsoftTipsandReviewsthanks for replying, I just need to make sure that I'm getting my money's worth

@crazywildegg54 It's worth it. Works great, mags are cheap, it's easy to work on (relativly). When you get it, I would recommend that you Loctite a few screws; most of them on the front part (outer barrel, gas tube, maybe the screw that secures the bipod). If you want to upgrade it, use heavy bbs (0,32) and replace the hop rubber and inner barrel. If it chronos above 1,5J, you don't need to open the gearbox; the internals are strong enough.

​@@AirsoftTipsandReviewsthanks so much for answering my concerns, much appreciated

@crazywildegg54 no problem

@@InnocentCivilian I got it for the same reason. I also noticed, that it sometimes stopped feeding, but I just pulled the string a few times and it started feeding again. Also, I don't remember if I shared this mod in any of the videos... But I glued a small strip of plastic (old credit card) on the bottom of the magazine. It is across the whole width of the mag - when the mag is inserted/locked into the mag well, it prevents the side-to-side movement of the mag. Maybe that's why it feeds better...

The spacer for the back of the gearbox is 78mm long (i cut a length of an old inner barrel). I don't know of what bolt you're thinking; if you mean the one, that holds the stock to the back of the gearbox, it's 100 mm long. My original spring guide was plastic and didn't have any threads inside of it, so I replaced it with a new one. Also, I had to enlarge the hole in the back of the gearbox, so that the screw could go through it. About the spring; you'll have to tell me more; don't know of which one you're talking about

@@rummbolt Yeah, it saved me a lot of headaches when upgrading aegs. It's easy to do and surrprisingly accurate

Yes, you are correct. I dremmeled away the corner of the panel and used JB-Weld to fill-in the hole that was created. After that I got painted.

@@AirsoftTipsandReviews Thanks! And you 've done a great job too! I 'll try to do the same for my (much simpler, overall) mod too.

Sorry, no. I'm keeping it

@@ninjaarcades7356 glad you like it

@@DiabeticRedneck Damn; that's tuff. I wish you all the best and stay healthy. And yes, I'll upload the file and post the link to it. And thanks for the kind words :)

@@AirsoftTipsandReviews thanks man 💜

That is a screw with a cross-head (the slot on top of it is in a shape of a cross or +).

@@AirsoftTipsandReviews The two types are the Pozidriv and the Phillips. Both + heads.

@@lefthandedluke Yeah? Didn't know that. Thanks for the info

is your replica stock? Did you replace any of the parts in the bolt or the triggerbox?

@@AirsoftTipsandReviews its stock, nothing has been replaced!

@@HemTight Hmm... It soundds like there's a lot of friction between piston and cylinder. Maybe there is not a lot of grease inside or maybe the spring guide is not centered. For starters, disassemble your replica. Open the cylinder and check for wear points/marks. Grease the piston (on the silicone cup and on the rings that touch the cylinder walls. Also, check the trigger box and the Spring guide stop. Also; when you're pulling/pushing the bolt, you need to hold the bolt handle close to the cylinder (so you're not pushing it sideways)

@@AirsoftTipsandReviews ok, thank you that makes sense. Yea seems like the tolerances (if I’m using that term correctly) are very tight and causing friction. I’ll check the spring and trigger too, thank you much

@@gundog39 Sadly no... so far ;) Besides me, two of my team-mates also own AGM STENs, but no gbb STENs. I must attend more WW2 events....

@@HemTight yes, it is. And it fits so nicely in the hand

@@gundog39 Hmm... I never measured it. I would say about 60-70m (with 0,32 bbs). I didn't had a chance to test it with heavier bbs because I sold it soon anter making the video.

@@dartedvader yes, with some mods. You would need to make new holes for the magwell to lock into. Also, you would need a new hop-up unit. Maybe a P90 hop unit would work, maybe even an Type96 LMG also. If not, then you would need to 3D print one

@@AirsoftTipsandReviews oh cool, i always wanted a MP 3008 but couldn't find a airsoft one

@@dartedvader ou, you want the mag on the bottom. Use an M14 hop unit then. And replace the air nozzle with M14 length as well

You are perfectly correct - it's overpriced, but I wouldn't go as far as calling it junk. The gearbox is a real jem (strong, easy to work on, good parts stock). The external mods are not needed, but they make the replica feel better. The new mid-caps are a real godsend. So; in my opinion it's a standard airsoft replica.... if we're not talking about an M4 or AK variant. I'm in this hobby close to 20 years and I've owned lots of replicas (but most of them were rare/unique models - so you're stuck with what you got). And the fact, that I love to tinkker doesn't help things. :) I'll do a video about mods and fixes for the Type96 as well (both replicas had simmular price-tags FYI). Anyway; thanks for the kind words - means a lot :)

​​​@@AirsoftTipsandReviewsIt was more the externals that I have a gripe with, for the prices that airsoft stores are asking I would expect rock solid build quality. Last year I bought an LCT RPK and that thing is built like a tank and I think that was a similar price to the B.A.R. I think that S&T/Matrix really need to up their game, from what I've heard and seen their MG42 is a stinker as well. Apparently the thing just falls to bits, I spoke to one owner who told me that had to weld some things in place. For a £600+ gun here in the UK that is just unacceptable.

@@gundog39 I agree with you there. About the price; I got it for 350EUR (but on sale it got low as 280 and when they get a fresh resupply I saw them close to 400). But yeah; LCT bodys are miles ahead in quality - and for a comparrable pricetag. But S&T are making a unique replica... so they will sell it... even if the quality is subpar.... because you donn't have any other option

@@AirsoftTipsandReviews When it comes to the B.A.R the only other alternative was the one made by VFC, but that is near impossible to find and is insanely expensive (looking at close to £1200). Same with the MG42, you have the G&G which is a beautifully built replica. The cost however, is extortionate with the most expensive one I've seen going for £1950. 😬 The cheapest I've seen the S&T B.A.R for is £399 on a summer sale, I feel even that isn't worth it. For about £70 more I could get a Golden Eagle type 96. There's no middle ground it's either over priced junk or a unicorn that you would never want to take to a game for fear of scratching it up.

@@gundog39 As far as I know the S&T is a copy of the VFC design - so, no inprovement. 400 GBP you say.... that's... a lot... Well you'll have to do some fixing-up no matter which replica you choose. I'll say this: BAR is much easier to upgrade (Type 96 is hard to shimm and I can't get it above 1,5J). But the Type 96 has much better mags. After I'll do a video on Type 96 mods and fixes, I'll try to convert it into BREN or ZB30

Also; I forgot to say it in the video. The screws I used are the "wood screw" type and not the kind that needs to have threads cut for it beforehand.. I didn't use any glue and the screw holds nicely. But if you got the possition right, then glue can't hurt ;)

Can you be more specific? I don't know what are you refering to.

​@@AirsoftTipsandReviewsi meant the barrel but now i stuck there the rubber band for gbbr's and it stays put

@@MartasHavlicek I described the procedure in the video. But if your fix works.... great to hear that :)

if you do, please keep us updated here

@@AirsoftTipsandReviews if i get one i even make a video about it, it´s hard to get a BAR in germany Legaly, and there are some ways to import them legaly need to take a look from where and how.

@@sanybalkanaciairsoft3253 I feel your pain. Doesn't Begadi sell BARs (modified for Germany)? Ask taiwangun.com if they can help you

taiwangun.com. They are located in Poland

@@AirsoftTipsandReviews Awesome. Cheers mate!

@@BaldwinVonDresden No problem. I suggest that you disassemble the mags and give the main spring a lite coat of silicon grease (for better feeding)

Well; it's a beast! Currently it's shooting with about 1,9J (with BLS 0,32 bbs) and it shows. Assault rifles have a limit of 1,5J in Slovenia, so 1,9J is a nice advantage. My brother (who was using the BAR) said that he was sniping players from one hill on another hill. I didn't do much internal upgrading; Maple leaf 550mm barrel, Maple leaf 70°monster and Omega nub in a standard Cyma metal AK hop chamber. And I regreased the gearbox and put in a stronger spring. The only thing I have to fix is a wobbly stock. After 2 or 3 fights it's started to get some movement back. And I'll add/replace the delayer chip on the sector gear. The nozzle needs to stay open a bit longer, so the feeding from mid-caps is better

​@@AirsoftTipsandReviewsThat's genuinely impressive, I looked up the parts you mentioned and for the most part they're relatively inexpensive. Which maple leaf barrel did you use, is there a specific type. 🙂

@@gundog39 I used 6,02 mm ML inner barrel; nothin special like CrazyJet

​@@AirsoftTipsandReviewsIt's just that I couldn't find a normal ML barrel that was 550mm, the closest I could find was 540mm. The upgrades themselves seem fairly easy to install, would a new hop chamber need any work doing to it ?. 🙂

@@gundog39 540mm is the right length. My hop chammber iwas very loose inside. Wrap the hop rubber in a few layers of teflon tape

Thanks! I love retro replicas. And I have a few on the waiting list ;)

@@AirsoftTipsandReviewsis the snow wolf MP18 on your list? Cuz I just got one. Super excited to test it :)

@@HemTight Saddly no. I had a few axis replicas but I sold them all... got to draw the line somewhere :) However; maybe I'll get my hands on a MG42 in the following months. And I'll do a video on STG44 (as soon as I get it back)

@@AirsoftTipsandReviews drawing the line in this hobby is smart hahah. And yes, pls cover the STG when you get the time! Thanks mate!!

It was a metal AK hop chamber from Cyma. I boght it on TaiwanGun. Nothing special; if I remember correctly it didn't have any levers or sliders on it. You can try the Element plastic hop unit as well; they always worked well for me

Hi is the petg strong enough to hold it or did yours broke at any point?

@@joh_nas Yes, the PETG is strong enough. The part didn't broke at any point. However, the receivers are held tightly together, but if you grab the upperand try to rotate it you can twist it a bit. So, print the part with thick walls and use a lot of infill. If I were to print a new part I would do it with ASA (they say it's a lot stronger)

I didn't spend much on upgrades (about 30€). This replica can be upgrated with standard parts (and now there are 120 bb mid-caps available for them). SWIT version is the SRC gbb (if I'm not wrong). Which one to pick... Answer these questions. What kind of power are you allowed and how far do you want your replica to shoot (aeg is better). In what envirement are you shooting (gbbs are real bad if it's +10°C or colder... even CO2). How much money do you have to spend (gbb is very expencive with expencive mags). How good are you at upgrading (gbb mags can be a real pain when they start leaking; aeg you need to upgrade once a year.... maybe every two years)

@@AirsoftTipsandReviews Yeah Im on a budget and I'd like this one more, just wanted to know if the upgrades are costy or not, cause if they were and reached a similar price to the SRC I woulda got that one, but this one is more appealing

@@royale7620 yes, then buy this one for-shure.

This was the real wood version. 100%. And the issues were not that bad if you want just a battle rifle. If you want a sniper rifle, then you need to do some stabilisation of parts (but you need to do that with almost all spring rifles)

Yes, I know. But thanks for the comment :)

I had no problem attaching the scope. If I remember correctly, I slid it on the scope rail from the back. If that does not work, try filing the inside of the scope rings (so they are wider).

@@AirsoftTipsandReviews Thank you for the response. However, the scope already fits nicely inside the rings it came with. The problem is that the rails on the scope mount(Attached to the rifle itself with two screws) are too wide for the clamps on the scope rings to fit on it; The scope ring clamps can’t open wide enough to fit

@@JozMkII Ahhh; a misunderstanding. The instruction is still the same. Take the scope with scope rings and slide it from the back (or the front) on the rail. If the rail is too wide I would take a file and widen the slot/space on the scope rings, so it will fit. Also; you can sand down the sides of the rail - just make sure to keep it streight. In short; modify the part that is easier to replace... if you screw it up :)

@@AirsoftTipsandReviews I tried bending the scope ring clamps with pliers, but it’s not enough; They simply can’t open wide enough. And after paying around $40 for the scope mount + its shipping cost, I’m not terribly enthusiastic about grinding away at it. Looks like the tube of this scope is .75 inch in diameter, whereas the rails appear to be intended for a 1 inch diameter scope. Hopefully I can find some aftermarket scope rings with clamps that can open to the wider width; Otherwise I may look into getting a different scope altogether.

Yeah, that's a bit expencive to screw it up. Well, I got the rail for about 12€ and the scope (with scope rings) was about 20€. If I had your problem, I would draw and 3D print my own rings (integrated onto the rail). If you can remove the scope rings from it; I would do it. 3D prints are strong enough to handle it.

It's possible... but not soon. But there's not much to it. I would use a metal strereith MP5 mag . Dissassemble the metal hi-cap and somehow mark (or remember) how high it was sitting in the mag body. Cut off the hi-cap machanism from the internal part (so you're left with only the top part - the doors for filling bbs and the part that goes on the hop unit and has the latch that holds bbs in the mag). Dissassemble the MP5 mag and keep the internals - remove the bb latch from it (and the spring and the follower). Put something flexible with 6mm diameter (power cord works for me); grease it up and put it through the top part of the thompson mag (what's left of it) and into the MP5 mag. This is how you'll ensure, that the bb feedway stays clear. Now just use epoxi or ABS paste (watch my video) and use it to join the two mag parts together. Put the new mag into the body of the thompson mag (while the joint is still flexible). Secure it and wait for it to dry. Remove the power cord and check if it feeds. If not, do some sanding. Trial and error; it's the only way. Youll probably screw-up the first one, but you'll get there

Thank you so much, I'll give that a go

@@956Eye good luck. :) Also; for a better result split all the components (tme MP5 mag and the top part of the thompson mag) on the left and right halfs.. This will allow you to modify or fine-tune the bb channel on the inside. And you'll be able to clean the mags if needed

Yeah, it's a very nice toy replica :) Very realistic. And it has a programmable mosfet inside

It is a replica that requires a lot of attention and care, for sure. But so far, I didn't have any issues (with my example). But I agree, the trigger is baaaaad... :)

Yes, I'll do it but it'll take a few days. I'll send you a link to it as soon it's on the webb

@@AirsoftTipsandReviews thanks a lot , you save me , is impossibile find that piece

@@AirsoftTipsandReviews hi , you put the 3d part online?

@@giacomosalvatori3388 Sorry, not yet. Didn't forget, just very short on time. Sometime this month, I promice

@@giacomosalvatori3388 www.thingiverse.com/thing:6680714 here you go

I've used ABS paste to make a shimm between the outer barrel and the main reciver. So, remove the handguard and remove the 3 screws that hold the outher barrel on the reciver extention. Now, apply a thick layer of ABS paste (2mm thick) on the end of the barrel and some on the front face of the main reciver (where the barrel is going to touch the reciver). Then reinstall the barrel on the extention, but don't push it all the way in. Push it just far enough, so you can reinstall the screws. Then wait a few hours so the outer layer of the paste hardens (so it's easier to form/mold) and push the extra paste into the space between the barrel and the reciver. The next day you can remove the exess of the paste and leave it to harden all the way (4-5 days). You can get the same result if you make a shimm out of a peace of plastic of correct thickness. So, you're not actually reinforcing the join but you're preventing it from moving around.

Yes, that's true. But still for some replicas it's not that much of a hassle. On a G36 all you need to do is remove the lower reciever. The same for most MP5 replica. But I love it when I'm upgrading a gearbox; so much simpler to assamble/disassamble

Thanks. I couldn't go too indepth, since it wasn't my replica. But the owner has so far reported that it's still working great

no, I don't know of any. Did you check asian shops (RedWolf, ehobbyasia, WGC shop, tiger111....)

@@AirsoftTipsandReviews apparently there's a Japanese shop called F&F gun parts that has it but I have to see it they ship to the US

Thanks. This one doesn't have a choice - he's my brother :) But the rest of my teammates are of equal help. I must say, that I'm in a great company :)

so; since this replica has iron sights, that are offset to the left of the barrel, the bb flight path will be offset to the point of aim. So, if you are aiming in the centre of the target, the bbs will be hitting a few cm to the right.. If the offset is greater then 5 cm (let's say), then you need to adjust the windage..

@AirsoftTipsandReviews ah I figured it was because of the offset iron sights. I'm guessing windage can be adjusted using the small knob next to the big elevation knob?

@@yamashita888 correct

I made them myself. Just get a strip of sheet metal and bend it; nothing to it. If you're not good with handy-work maybe you can find some 3D models of them and print them

Thanks. It's a great game and so much to do/experience. Hitting the players is of secundary importance to me; I'm much more focused on the equipment, teching, game design... So yeah; I'm having lots of fun!

Yes, the front part also got wobbly. It's also secured with a small screw on the bottom (maybe it's under the front sight). Do the same glue trick like for the previous barrel join. Also, I removed the front sight (knock out he large pin) and I inserted a thin strip of plastic under the front sight when I was putting it back on. Because the front sight also had a lot of movement.

@AirsoftTipsandReviews alright thanks so much. I got into contact with the company I bought it from about the "crack" I saw and am waiting to see if they can possibly send me a new barrel if it's broken. Thanks for all your replies, you earned a new subscriber!!

@@yamashita888 No problem; I'm glad I could help.

Yes, it came with the replica

@@AirsoftTipsandReviewsok thanks. is the metal feel like good quality or more like pot metal?

@@yamashita888 The parts that are steel are thick and sturdy, but most of it is pot metal; some of the parts are the "heavy" pot metal (receaver) and some parts are made out of "lite" pot metal (mag release, cocking lever, bypod feet)

@AirsoftTipsandReviews thanks for the reply. I figure if I don't drop it and take care of it it should last

@@yamashita888 Yes, that's true. I would say that the weak point is the attachment point of the stock to the body. If it will break it'll break there.... but it's not that bad. Soon I'll do a follow-up video of all the mods and upgrades that I did to it.

link to the shop and this specific model is in the video description section. Also, you can get them on asmc.com. They are about 70-80€