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@@gonkuz it’s menu item #12 on the radio. Page 17 in the manual has the details on scrolling through the characters. radioddity.s3.amazonaws.com/Radioddity_DB20-G_User_Manual_V3.0_20220310.pdf

@@EverydayATV i already placed the channel name. But it can't be save. If i go to another channel the name that i type will be erase and go back to frequency mode

@@gonkuz I just confirmed this works on mine. Press the FUN button to bring up the menu and then use the V/M button to scroll to menu 12, which is channel name. Use the up and down arrow keys to scroll thru the alphabet values. When you want to go to the next character, hit the MON key and repeat for the next letter. When your name is complete, hit the V/M key to go to menu 13. The name should be saved on the display. You can hit the MAIN button to go back down to menu 12 if needed. Hit the FUN key to take you out of the menu and back to the main screen.

That’s awesome to hear. Glad to help. Thanks for watching and thanks for commenting.

I hear you. When I called back and told them they should have sent me new side rails and prop rods to go with the redesigned replacement cover, they said sorry but offered me a discount on an entirely new cover. Yeah right. Thanks for watching and sharing your experience.

Glad to hear you’ve had pretty good luck. Totally love the Tuxedo Black, which was only available in ‘15. I’m at 60k miles now. Just finished a 200 mile roadtrip today. Cruise set at 72mph with the A/C on and the 6.5’ bed fully loaded and still got 21 mpg. Engine was running right around 2k rpm. At my next oil change I think I’ll have the original plugs changed along with a transfer case fluid change and coolant flush. Just did rear brakes and rotors at 50k and the second set of Hankooks still have about 15k of tread left. So far I’m happy with the Sony sound system that came in the Platinum trim. The subwoofer rocks. Continued luck with yours 👍 Thanks for watching and commenting.

Drive it every day….just not that far.

It’s been a year and a half since the repaint. So far so good but I’m counting the days until it comes back. The 5 year paint and corrosion warranty expired in Jan 2024. Back in Jan 2023 when Jeep fixed it, the TSB only called for a repaint of the hood and doors. Not sure if new hinges were used or just repainted. The new TSB calls for replacement of the panels. They are now using shims under the hinges between the hinges and doors, however that will not take care of the blistering issue on the leading edges of the doors and hood as that is a different root cause. There is a forum on Facebook called “JL Corrosion Information” with now 18k members. It’s unreal how many people post per day with this issue. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Sorry to hear and thanks for the info. Since mine is a 2015, I have the 6 speed auto. They went to the 10 speed in 2017. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Sure, it’s a Realistic (Radio Shack) 13.8v 25a power supply from 1988 that I used to use to power my battery charger for my radio control cars. Thanks for watching. Here is what it looks like. www.ebay.com/itm/145687880371

Sorry to hear. Sounds like this is all new areas and the ones that were repainted the first time are still good? My biggest fear is that it will come back on the hood, doors and hinges. Haven’t had any corrosion yet on the windshield or tailgate, but if we do, we are now past the 5 year warranty mark. Hope they do a good job for you.

@@EverydayATV Luckily for me the dealer ordered new panels & hinges last year and this.

I wish they would have. At the time the TSB instructed to repaint. That has since changed and they are now doing the replace per the updated TSB.

Good questions. The water is saturated in the fibers of the composite material. It’s not like it’s sloshing around in there and can’t be drained out simply like water in a container. The supports are permanently attached to the rails. There’s no way to take them off to move them closer up to the cab. The rubber hinges between the four panels now also leak like a sieve. When I replace the truck in a few more years I will definitely look at other manufacturers.

I still have the same cover, as I won’t replace it until I get a new truck. The cover leaks like a sieve at the rubber hinges. I’ve looked at the WeatherTech for the next time around. However the only drawback with that one is that the panel closest to the cab does not flip up against the rear window to make the entire bed available. This is important to me, since I often have my ATV in the back and need it all wide open. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Unfortunately it’s all years of JL’s that are having the corrosion issue. It’s just a matter of time until it shows its ugly face. This is our first and last Jeep. Either going back to a Lexus GX or possibly a Ranger Raptor if and when the paint issue comes back. I wish everyone would wise up and boycott Jeep purchases. You would see then how fast Stellantis would solve the underlying issues. Unfortunately there are loyal Jeep owners that will never sway away from the brand. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Interesting that the 2018 happens to be 3 years newer and 2 trims higher than the 2015, yet less money. Keep in mind that the Limited with have the high output Ecoboost V6 vs the Coyote V8 in the 2015. The 2015 will also have the tried and true 6 speed automatic vs the new 10 speed in the 2018. It will be a personal choice between the two. Front end styling and rear taillight are also different between the two as 2018 was the mid cycle refresh.

@@EverydayATVthanks for getting back to me ! I know it’s a tough choice. Which do you think is mote reliable ? Anything I should look out for? I just want it to last long and have minimal problems. I workout be towing or anything (don’t have anything to tow) more for hauling some house and gardening stuff and driving it half the week. Also what do you think of the pricing ? For the lariat I’ve been seeing similar pricing. No one seems to want to go down. Wasn’t really looking for a limited but it popped up so figured why not

@@sacredgrounds_ cant really comment on which engine is more reliable as I don’t have any experience with the Ecoboost. Both engines are know for having issues with having the cam phasers serviced or replaced. I worry a bit about the turbos with that high mileage. One other thing to keep in mind is that the 2015 has a fairly normal 12-13k miles out on it very year whereas the Limited would have had over 20k miles out on it every year. The key question there is what has been the service history?…..did it get an oil change at least every 5K, meaning that it had 5 oil changes per year? Is the service history available for either or both? For pricing, I would go out to kbb.com and see if the pricing for both is reasonable, as I really don’t know. Hope that helps and good luck.

Much appreciated on the explanation of the channels. I often end up looking at a channel chart just to keep them straight. Yes lots of shared channels for sure. 99% of the time I’m just on one of several of our clubs repeater channels. Kind of set and forget. Thanks for watching and commenting.

@@EverydayATV Man, I'm forever looking this stuff up. Too many movie quotes stored in the ol' noodle to remember useful things like this.

Sorry to hear it happened so soon. Ours took 3.5 years to first show up. Get into your dealer asap and have them take pictures and get it approved. From what I’ve been reading, the wait for parts can be 6 months or longer. Good luck.

@@EverydayATV my fear is it’s like just the beginning and it’s gonna start happening everywhere. I’m meticulous about my jeep so I notice everything on it. Yesterday was the first time I saw that bubble. It’s like the size of a dime. No where else but I’m so scared. Like should I have it ceramic coated or is it going to happen with or without the coating?

@@aubreobrien933 ceramic coating won’t do anything to help, as the corrosion happens between the paint and the aluminum panel. Hinges, doors and hood are the most common places with some people having issues on the tailgate and also on the windshield header. We’ve been spared from the windshield and the tailgate, at least for now. We’re at the one and a half year mark since the repaint and everything‘s been OK so far. However, the second it comes back we are ready to dump it for either one of the new Lexus GX‘s or Ranger Raptor. This is our first and last Jeep.

You know Chinese 😂😂😂

Hey Steve, I don’t have access to my CPS software for the next week or so, but let me try to talk you through it. When the radio is set up as the default GMRS, I had noticed that the scan function on the mic does not work for GMRS. Once you unlock the radio, you still have to enable a scan function in the CPS software. Just make sure that everything is backed up before you switch over from GMRS as you will lose all your channels you have programmed. When you do switch over and open it up, you also have to do the same within the CPS software, and there is a setting in there that you have to turn back on in order to allow the radio to scan. Hope that helps.

@EverydayATV Thank you so much! I was able to find this setting, and it worked. Can't believe I missed this. Thanks again!

@@steves5825 glad it worked. I actually had posted in one of the radio forums as to why the scanning still didn’t work for me after unlocking the radio. Don’t know how I missed it in one of the CPS menus.

I’ve always used the USB-C on the radio to charge the battery. That said, I wanted to try the charging base after you mentioned your issue. I’ve tried it 3 times and each time it never gets hot. Was the replacement a charging base replacement or the radio or both? If it was only the charging base, maybe the radio or the battery is causing the overheating issue. Did you try contacting Better Safe Radio to get their opinion on the problem? Also one last suggestion…probably not the case but wanted to mention it anyways. When you slide the radio into the charging base, are you sure the tabs are aligned with the slots on the radio so that the radio sits firmly against the charging pins? The reason I ask is I had noticed my radio is very difficult to get seated into the charger properly. It always seems like only one side is in the slot and the other side is not and thus doesn’t make full contact with the charging pins. Bottom line is, the charging base should not get hot. Hope that helps Thanks for watching and sharing your story.

If you have a Limited, then you’ve got the 3.5L Ecoboost V6. Not sure what you mean by your cam was done. Did you have problems with the cam or cam phasers and it was fixed?

There probably is but none that I’m aware of. I haven’t researched it any, as I have the identical radio for VHF/UHF ham, which is the Baofeng UV-82. The only difference between the two radios that I’ve found so far is that the UV-82 does not allow me to sync the top and bottom displays when you change channels. This is a nice feature because you can then display the channel name on the top line and the corresponding channel frequency on the bottom.

BAK industries replaced my cover when I had issues with the gaps in the hinges and water leaks at the 2 year mark. Within those first two years, it got extremely heavy. The new panels were extremely light at first and like the original, got very heavy within the next year or two. Sorry I that I didn’t notice the prop rods on original rails didn’t work with the new cover until I went to use them for the first time before this video was shot. Just goes to show you that BAK should have also replaced the rails at the 2 year mark and not just the cover. Just trying to make people aware of the weight issues that happen over time and the fact that their customer service failed to fully support their product. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Pasting my answer I had given someone else for the same type of question. Hope this helps. Press the “FUN” key on your radio. It should display setting 01. Continue to press the “V/M” key to setting 12-Channel Name. There should be a name there. If you want custom channel names, you can change it here or via the CPS software. Keep pressing the “V/M” key to get to setting 19-DSPSUB. This is the option for the Sub-Display. Use the Up arrow key to set it to “OFF”. Continue with the “V/M” key to get to setting 29-DSPCHANNEL. Make sure it is set to “NAME”. Those are the 3 settings you need to get your display to look like mine with it displaying the Memory Channel Number, the Channel Name and the Channel Frequency all on the same screen. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.

That was perfect!! Thanks so much!!