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is there any trick to replacing the rubber isolators? mine are rotton :(

You have introduce poor starting under certain conditions , this could then mask another starting issue down the track . Making it harder to diagnose . If the part is available replace it or fit a fuel pressure regulator from a different car with the same specs .Interesting to see that crazy mounting position only ever seen exterior rear seat well mounting . A old volvo is only fun to own if it is kept reliable and running well .

Invaluable! Love the Virgo t-shirt, where d'you get it from?

Very interesting..i don.t have the tools neither i am not capable to fix it but now i know where is my 740 gle problems has cold starting to tell to the mechanic

Thanks for the video! It helped me a lot when doing the same job to my 93.

Upgrade would be a stronger 'race pump' in the tank. Then a long feeding hose/tube to the engine compartment with a servicable filter there, before FPR and fuel rail. Agree? Get rid of all that stuff underneath so to speak.

Nice Virgo tshirt. Wish they would have come in 17" !

👍🏻🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿 Ingenious. ‘Necessity is the mother of invention’.

Great job. Great attitude. Right on for leaving parts for the next guy. I'm just changing my Lower Hinge, and I think I can access the 12mm bolts from the inside. Nice to see how easy the fuse panel just steps to the side.

At 11:28, how did you get the belt on far enough to the point you could turn it and snap it on? I tried doing that and I ended up breaking my belt a little bit :( Life saving video though, thank you so much for posting!

Props to you, The 240 Rescue. Very well done video. I am now a subscriber. Your videography is clear and steady, or your actions are easy to observe and to learn from. Your clear and concise descriptions of what you are doing is helpful, and more than uncommon on TH-cam videos. I like how prepared you are, in your understanding of the process i.e. on the steps necessary in logical order, and your use of effective tools, and also your well-made jig of wood pieces to support the tank on its way down from the car. It always helps to be told the sizes of the bolt heads and nuts to be removed, also special caution on the vulnerable points that might be damaged without extra care.

Awesome! I’m about to do the same thing on a Canadian 81 240 GL - do it has a b23e with 405 head. I want to clean up all the parts as it doesn’t run. I did the in tank fuel pump with the IPD upgrade, got a new fuel filter and intake boot. Before I pull it apart though, I’m going to double check the main fuel pump. I don’t have the apprentices you do to let me know if they hear it running though! :D

I know I am a bit late to the party but I have a fuel and ECU related problem. Not on KJET but on LH-JET 2.4 from an Volvo 740 1991. B200F engine. The engine runs fine. But at startup it stalls no matter if the engine is cold or hot. You crank it, it revs up for 1 second as usual but then it stalls. First thaugt was a faulty pump or relay or something related to this. But if you give it a bit of pedal it keeps running, and after 4-6 seconds you can let go the pedal and it runs completely fine. Code on #6 1-1-1 all good. Code on #2 1-2-1 Air mass meter. All connectors even the ground connection and the harness connectors have been cleaned and checked. Code cleared, gives 1-1-1, so next try to start. When you start it normally It either stalls again or the CE Light stays on, and it runs at very low idle. If I just shortly press the pedal to rev it the CE light goes out but the idle is still crap. But the funny thing is: If you clear the code 1-2-1 again, and start it up with the pedal slightly pressed while cranking it, it revs the light goes out instantly and after 5 seconds and release the pedal the idle is normal and you can drive it normaly. Even after some attempts 1-1-1 came back and everything is okay when you press the pedal on startup and hold it slightly for this short period of time. But as soon as you start it without pedal 1-2-1 came back and it either stalls or runs rough and slow at idle. And as I said. The CE light stays on after startup until you first rev the engine.

Rare story, I found my "new" '89 745 in the junk yard, rescued it - got it home and running, now almost my daily ❤...love it

Are you in any of the Facebook Volvo groups?

Adorable and awesome

What. are the names of two front metals you painted and installed. The lower from metal sheet and upper metal sheet. Part numbers. I have same damage on my 1991 VOLVO 240 sedan.

This is great! Are you still doing those Africa door chimes?

Thx for the video mate. Really helped me

How the hell did you get the the 2 mounting nuts on the back of the kjet system??? I’m having so much trouble getting that 3rd nut closer to the engine block under all the hoses

You at an excellent teacher. Good job, Daddy!!!

I've had a 240 not running for 4 months, five different mechanics and I have come to rule it down to the fuel injectors but now every shop I go to to ask them to change them out to a remanufactured set is acting dogmatic saying that they never go bad but there were three quarts of gas in my oil just from trying to start it between tests and different mechanics and we changed the fuel pressure regulator and three of the sparkplugs are still fouled and I'm ao frustrated nobody will look at my car for me because "it's too old" or "fuel injectors never go bad". Ugh. In need of a mechanic in the Rhode Island USA area pleeeeaaaaase lol

we need more volvo kjet fixing!!, thanks for your effort

I love non cat kjet. Best system ever.

im new to the volvo stuff so may i ask what you mean by having "lean" issues? what is that

thumbs up on the vid for being a great father and a sub for being a great volvo tech lol

Which pressure gauge are you using?

Hey is it possible to drop the tank done on the rack bc I need to put that prong gasket on there and the metal bracket on properly . A guy did my new tank install in my driveway and the gas was leaking later .. so I think the bracket came loose bc I saw it later .. at a mechanics place on the rack . I don’t want to drop the tank .. the new mechanic put smoke in and the smoke came out at that filler neck tank juncture !

The internet definitely needs more KJet troubleshooting videos. Thanks for the video!

I've been daily driving a K-Jet Volvo 240 since 2010 🥰

I've been trying to diagnose my cold start issues on my '86 245 wagon, and running into a wall for the past few months. Looking forward to running some tests on it once I get the time! Thanks for the perfectly timed topical upload!

My 1988 245 IS APROACHING 700 k MILES ,STILL ON THE ORIGINAL REGULATOR, ONLY THINGS I HAVE DONE TO MINE IS ALTERNATOR BRUSHES, TIE ROD END ,STILL RUNNING ON ORIGINAL SHOCKS, I HAVE REPLACED BELTS, INCLUDING RECENT TIMING BELT, WATER PUMP ONCE, FEW OEM BRAKE JOBS,AND TIRE CHANGES ,AND ALWAYS 5,000 MILE CASTROL 10-30 MY ENGINE LOOKS LIKE NEW INSIDE AND NEVER BURNS A DROP OF OIL ,ENGINE LOOK NEW INSIDE VALVE COVER ,THAT THE CASTROL DIET. I THONK I DID CLEAN THE PVC / FLAME TRAP TWICE ,TRANSMISSION FLUSH ONCE, A U JOINT, A COUPLE WINDSHIELDS,AND ONCE A HATCH STRUT REPLACEMENT, BLOWER MOTER GROWS BIT STILL WORKS, HAD TO FIX WIPER MOTOR BACK IN 2001 , OTHER THAN THAT, I WOULD DRIVE THE CAR TO ALASKA TODAY, AND STILL KNOW I WILL MAKE IT THERE AND BACK,I LIVE IN MISSOURI. HOPE TO RUN THIS ONE OVER A MILL, ALSO MOGHT MENTION THE CAR WILL NEVER USA A DROP OF OIL, BEST CARS EVER PUT ON THE PLANET. VOLVO FOR LIFE HAS PROVEN ITSELF TO ME

I want that tshirt!

What was the process of getting the air conditioning hoses off and through the core support?

Chris Ng? Nice one!

😭 wow, that is sad.

The 1977 year has a unique set up. 1977 was the first year that Volvo decided to put a lift pump in the tank, this was probably more for safety and fuel theft reasons as the early cars run fine. The 1977 fuel tank no longer has the outlet on the side of the tank, the drain plug or plug which allowed access to the wire mesh filter as this was replaced with a sock on the lift pump. These plugs often crack and leak around the solder joints if the car bottoms out on rough ground. The 1977 tank still has half the filler neck welded to the tank with a joiner in the boot (trunk). Also the 1977 tank still has the smaller access hole for the sender unit which made getting the sender unit, now with lift pump, a bit of a squeeze to get in and correct alignment was not obvious. The main pump was still bolted to the front of the tank which meant the inlet was now facing the wrong way! Hence the awkward U-shaped infeed hose. These issues were fixed for 1978 with the enlarged access hole with obvious orientation tab, main pump moved off the tank to a separate carrier which was also in a better protected location. The 1978 filler neck now joined at the tank preventing any petrol (gas) smells in the car.

Great Video and honest simple advice keep up the great work

Thanks so much Chris

great vid! have a '91 240 DL - first began stalling out exactly 5 years ago today. pulling my hair out here. replaced so much to no avail. cps. entire intake restored, oil pump + PCV system entirely new (ridic difficult since I did not remove the front axle to do it), both fuel pumps new (in-tank pump replaced twice just because), new fuel filter, new gas tank with line-x exterior custom-meticulous, new OEM plugs, distributor cap + rotor, new bosch coil, new plug + wires, new air filter, cleaned MAF several times now, new starter, new optima yellow top, cleaned all grounds, 100% fully restored original alternator (by hand), new OEM diesel motor mounts, new engine coolant sensor, cleaned ignition valve, new water pump, new timing, new belts, replaced all inboard fuses, new fuel pump relay, new fuel regulator... all my me by hand and more that i simply cannot recall right now - it's STILL STALLING AND HAS A ROUGH IDLE!!!!! god save me. last time i drove it before it stopped starting up (recently)...i noticed that the left (driver's side) headlight beam was very low, but it wasn't like the bulb had fully burned out - seemed really strange. the right headlight bulb was fine, but the other acted like the alternator was dead - which I'm telling you is not the case at all. if the alternator was dead or acting up, then the entire system would behave like that left headlight. so question to you: i'm getting a 2-3-4 code on port 6 of OBD check. that's technically a throttle sensor issue. this is a brand new code read. wasn't there before now. i know. nuts. anyway...could the throttle sensor cause engine stalling and also no starts and, to your video's point, could clogged injectors cause the sloooooow stalling that this car typically has - especially when the weather is hot outside? my car doesn't "die" like i turned it off with the key - you're driving along and then you feel this drop in the engine power for a split second....and you think you imagined it but you didn't imagine it - it was very real........and then everything's fine for maybe like 5 seconds.....and then.......yes....it slowly starts dying like you are turning off a water faucet slowly, like you're running out of gas....and then all the dash lights come on and you for sure best not still be in a lane on the highway - you best have gotten off the road during that 5 seconds it gave you as warning. really scary stuff when you're in it and you have kids and other people are flying around you and they have no idea your car is dying. huge thanks for any info! EDIT: I just sprayed water on all 4 exhaust ports and water evaporated on contact on all 4. appears that none of the cylinders are firing colder than what is normal.

I just inherited a 1980 Volvo 242 that has been stored in a heated shop for over 20 years. I'm interested to hear how you resolved the kjet issue on yours.

Howdy Chris, great to see you again!

Where did you buy the regulator from?

Showing frame details at 3:00 is just fantastic, thanks for that. Is that frame a Volvo (240, etc)?

PS Didnt see compleate Vidio you used Roofi ng cement also that, was my thought great Vidio keep them coming

Greetings from Massachusetts i have a 92 740 W G N same problem i have no rubber seal just CHROME thanks i used ROOFING CEMENT Patch🤣😂🤣 500 thousand miles & DRY.

Just want to thank you! I have a '78 242gt and not a car person at alllllll.....you've given me a glimmer of possibility i might be able to adjust my own belts! Love your energy, and the kiddos and cat!

If your fuel pressure regulator was leaking fuel across the diaphragm that would make the first two cylinders run Rich and misfire thus running cool. As far as the injectors go I would like to see how you clean and test flow volume. Good video.😊

Very interesting fix. I'm here cause I own a 1991 w124 300e with the KE jet system, largely the same components with ofcourse some added electrical components. I recently discovered that my accumulator has been deleted, I have 2 pumps and a filter only. This is after 2 years of ownership. During this time, cold starts have been near perfect (after fiddling with the CO screw a bit), warm starts within 30 mins are prompt. However, warm starts after 1 hour go as follows: long cranking, sputters and coughs while starting (but it DOES start on first attempt as compared to your 4 attempts). Such an intricate system this! Question: you mentioned that it kinda loses power in the higher rev ranges. Mine is behaving similarly. 0-60 is 10 secs while this car from factory is rated at 7.8 secs. Did the accumulator delete fix that on yours?

How do I diagnose a 81 Let, if both fuel pumps work, and the filter is good and it has new injectors but has a rough hesitation when started and running?