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Gear ratio was the one that comes with the ssr4. The motor is T238 33k brushless.

Hehe thanks 😊. How did you figure it out, that I bought it for a custom barrel work, i can't imagine 😅. It's true, I have drawn a custom cut that i want to prototype, but before that, i have to spend some time on that lathe, i must retur his glory look.

Thanks buddy, yeah i am glad i got the opportunity to find and buy one on those.

33k t238 adjustable speed long shaft motor

Thanks Felipe, Tbh i don't remember having to short stroke this one unless it already comes that way. Generally folow the rework i made on the videos to smooth the GB operation.

@AC-AirsoftCustoms nice! I'll look into it!

Fine tuning of all internals 6 months before the bearings and motor swap.

@AC-AirsoftCustoms the fine tuning that you did in your videos right

Exactly

@@AC-AirsoftCustoms thank you i just wanted to be sure i dont have ti change anything else and everything fits right in because i couldnt find any tutorial for an ssr4 brushless build.

i just wondered what motor from T238 exactly did u use and dose it just fit in the grip of the ssr4 without any adjustments.

no, it was 8t dsg

Hi, i do have, but they are for spares for the workshop. Nothing for sale.

Its the stock grip

After this video, tha manufacturer contacted me. They asked me to provide data and videos, so they could work on that issue for future generations of the DTU inside. I don't know if they made any progress, but it was a long time ago, so i hope they fixed it already. Solution is aluminum tape around the Gearbox or receiver and testing to see if you ware able to block the signal.

Thanks for the update 👌 . They may changed the design a little, but have in mind that the rubber can smash and if after the smashing, the gap is big enough so the walls of the holes can hit on the pins, breakage will occur no mater what.

@@AC-AirsoftCustoms they did make it that even if the rubber was completely removed the walls of the holes still would not hit the front of the pins. Been running it for a few games and took it apart to check it out and wasn’t any wear around the pins. The front rubber bit was seeing some wear though..

Sometimes when they are unproperly shimmed they sensce high amp draw end ener in protective mode. I can't say if that's your case, but it may be.

😆 😂

Just the add on.

They improved the motor quite a long time ago. They are actually constantly improving it once in a while. The good things i can say between the first Silver bldc and the current one is that they gain more torque and efficiency, not mentioning that they revisit the dimensions that ware off in the first batch.

⁠OK these are really interesting informations. Thanks for the reply. And always glad to see your new video!

Yeah, that would be the 3rd one and most probably the last one to build.

I dont know anyone who can do that. Even i failed, i tried to disassemble it once without damage, and it wasn't successful.

Be caution, with the CH holes, without rubber, they will hit the pins, and the GB will break sooner than you think.

@@AC-AirsoftCustomsOk thanks for the heads-up. I will check that also. So can I suppose that as long as the CH can still reach the shell and the holes are larger enough still have space for the pins, then it would be safe to remove the bumper without filling?

@Xavier-ys2vk if any of the problems appear, switch that head. Stay on the safe side. If all that you asked me appears to be true, another issue will rize. That one is that when the piston gets retracted it will make some suction that will move the CH further in the Gearbox creating different Air volume, most probably the gun will be inconsistent as f**k.

@@AC-AirsoftCustoms OK thanks for the replies!

On Gen1 don't go beyond M120, GB is Fragile.

Thanks! For a DMR with 19T, i wouldn't go below 18:1 and especially with t238 33k bldc. You can use any oem or replica shs + 9t bevel to gain some ratio and for more durability on the long run. Or you can buy ant test RetroArms new gears (19t) .Having brushless is grea, you will be able to shoot fast, but dont forget that you have a 19t sector and you can have a very pronounced PME.

@@AC-AirsoftCustoms Thank you so much for the quick response! Ok maybe I will try the new Retro Arms with 20:1 ratio. For this setup I will play semi only. Do you think is there still a possibility with PME?

You should not have issues with 20:1 and m160. The issue is from 18:1 below with the 19t sector and the instant top revolutions BLDC motors, such pair may give you PME thats why i preferred slow motors but high torquey ones so no PME but Insta breaking.

@@AC-AirsoftCustomsMuch appreciated. BTW I really like your works. All the videos are straightforward with professional knowledges, but the style is still kept in a very modest fashion. Subbed and hoping for the coming contents!

At the end, the red maxx, with custom adapter for it.

@@AC-AirsoftCustoms yes i have the red but does not fit inside. Help me and thanks

@BlackDay171 Unfortunately, i can't right now. I made i 3d resin printed adapter for it, but i need something stronger because every 10 games we have to exchange it( simply breaks). Will be buying a different nozzle for my fdm printer soon, so i will check if that will help. That's why i didn't finish the series. I will keep you posted

@@AC-AirsoftCustoms I have a 3D printer i need the STL thanks

@BlackDay171 Sorry, they are not for sale.

It's not that it doesn't, but you need to switch nozzel with a longer one in order to seal. From another hand, the hop unit displaces itself to the front, so this can make magazine fitment very difficult and proprietary to any brand that could fit the new dimensions.

JB weld isn't good for that application. Use industrial Loctite for example 638 Loctite

thanks @@AC-AirsoftCustoms

Hi, i may make a kit for it. If nobody hasn't done it yet.

@@AC-AirsoftCustoms Could you link this?

It is normal since the material is still soft. That's why i used aluminum in the first place.

The right combo is what gives that performance. High speed/high torque motor this is a total misconception. Ther is no such thing, its high speed or high torque... can't be both.

Thank you! Use a thick sticky grease and spread it onto the spring.

@@AC-AirsoftCustoms Thanks a lot for the fast answer. Would some like PFTE Super lube do the trick ? Or thicker than that ?

I don't have access to that brand locally, so i cant say how thick it is. Most probably, any grease will do the job, but with thicker one, it will be pretty permanent until the next cleaning of the gun.

@@AC-AirsoftCustoms Thanks. Really appreciate your prompt answers. I will be experimenting with your technique. Keep up the good work!

The motor itself is powerful enough to break some gearsets. Keep in mind that the minimum requirement is to have the least basic mosfet in the gun. The more consistency in voltage and current input, the better. Classic Contact group is to be avoided.

Unfortunately not, and for the moment, there are no plans on doing 😕.

Hi, yes I could, but looking at the trend, it isn't a popular platform, and it will be a waste of time recording it. I got only 10 likes and a couple of hundreds of views of that short.

​@@AC-AirsoftCustoms I understand. Thank you for your answer. Could you tell me what you use to keep the HPA Engine in place in the MDR?

@@AC-AirsoftCustoms please make a video

that sounds nothing like helical gears. helicals make for less heat and sound.

Thanks, but i see no need, in person sounds crisp, samsungs 🎤 is peaking adding something that isn't there. Need to send that phone for repair cuz still in warranty, but one mic is dead already.

I feel like it always sounds better in real life with aeg ​@@AC-AirsoftCustoms

@oli_762 Indeed, the microphone isn't professional also thats not an acoustic studio and won't represent the real sound, which is a lot better than what had been picked here.