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I don't really know. I never measured it. Full disclosure though. It ended up collapsing last year in a bad storm when the bed was left outside. The bed was fine though. I REALLY need to get back to it.

Thanks for the reply. Getting ready to remove my ‘71 bed. I may be able to borrow a dolly from a body shop.

That's an idea I didn't think about. That dolly was cheap to make, and it lasted for a few years. Far longer than it was meant to last. I wouldn't sweat it too much.

Hobart is a Miller with less bells and whistles. It gets the job done. This welder has been a workhorse for me, and I still love it. Best of luck, and thank you.

Great... I will keep an eye on the area for signs of standing water. It's easy enough to drill back out if need be. Thank you.

@17:55 you can see a 1/8" hole I know that is a drain hole there may be another idk about.

It's an old video, but I'm still around. Barely, but alive.

I still have it. Currently I'm in a wheelchair after a horrible motorcycle crash. I had starting working on the bed the weekend before I crashed. Spent 3 weeks in the hospital. I'm home now, but still not walking yet.

@@RIPbiker13 i'm sorry to hear about the bike accident. I have also been there, almost lost my right leg, there is a piece of my hip in the lower part of my leg to replace all the bone loss. I am glad you held on to the F250, I am now just pulling the cab corners off my F100 and remember your vlogs. I watched very closely but couldn't make out what you had for a welding rig. Would you let me know what brand and the voltage requirements you have? Thanks !

@PCHelp76180 I have a Hobart 210 MVP and I run it on a 50a circuit with 240v. As far as the fine settings, I can't recall exactly how I set it. I ran some practice tacks on scrap first. The potential for blow through is very high. I have a video of the welding cart build and that show the welder, but that doesn't help with the settings.

The bed has not been repaired yet. It's going to be a while. I had just started working on it a little over a month ago. I've since been laid up for a bad motorcycle crash, and I can't walk for the next couple of months. That said, I can tell you what my plans are. I'm going to use diamond plate or 14g steel sheet as the bed interior, boxing it all in to make it smooth. The supports will be made from 1"x2" steel square tube. 1x1 might be strong enough, though. So, I will get back to it and have a plan, just haven't yet and life has been a roller coster and the truck took a back seat. If you're set on the corrugated steel, I'd look to junk yards and grab a 2000s or 90s F150 bed and use that.

@@RIPbiker13 - I'm sorry to hear that you are banged up right now, take care! We (my son and I) have a Mercury M-100 that we just starting to restore. I was thinking we might fab up new cross members and maybe patch up the rotted corrugated truck bed areas. I could email you pictures of the truck box, maybe you might be able to advise us more. We have also considered buying a used replacement box altogether (might be the easiest). Like you said, we could find a newer corrugated box section and weld it into my outer shell area. Decisions, decisions... Thanks for the advice, sorry again to hear that you are on the mend right now. Your truck build is quite similar to our restoration, I've watched most of your playlist videos about it - great stuff!

@Cory Lechner The fact that you're doing it with your son is awesome! And a Mercury to boot! That's super cool!

@@RIPbiker13 - our truck is a 1967 so it's quite similar to yours other than yours is a F250, ours is a M-100 (F-100 clone).

The tape is easier to see when the sparks are flying, and the straight edge helps me align the wheel with the tape for a near perfect cut. Mostly, the line is there to help align the tape, and I use both for redundancy. Laying the tape makes a great straight edge for areas such as that. Tiral and error, and I used what worked for me the best.

The old CBs were/are super cool! That Triumph is long gone. Dang thing tried to kill me more times than I care to remember. Currently, but there are no videos, I'm riding a performance bagger Street Glide. The Springer is still here, but mostly collects dust anymore.

@@RIPbiker13 Yes, I was forced to sell the Honda and a 94 VMAX I'd had for 10 years. Needed the money. The triumph is a re-emergence to riding after 6 years not having a bike. I still miss the 750 and the Max. But life goes on.

I use gaurds now. I promise.

Thank you. I have nit given up but I severely underestimated the time and money this project would take. Covid shut me down when I was on a roll. I'm working on my property and the shop, hoping to get back to the truck. I've been going six and seven days a week with my job and community service I do, so finding the time has not been priority. I will get back to it though. Ever time I see one of these things drive by I crane my neck to get a good look at them.

I'm wanting to get back to it. Currently, it's sitting in the shop waiting for me.

I didn't own the correct tools at the time. As it progressed, it got better. Until it stopped. But I have the tools now.

It is still holding up very well. No issues and I'd take this approach again for the simple fact it's easy to repair if needed. If this were a show truck, which it never will be, I'd powder coat the entire frame. For a driver, I'm very happy with the method I used.

@@RIPbiker13 awesome. Thanks so much for the quick response. I've got to paint outside just like you...so appreciate you letting me know you'd do it again.

Thank you. Still holding up well since I built it. Very good design overall I think.

I got the Mustang V part from the Crown Vic I bought. I believe they can be purchased through the website with the link provided in this video however. But, I'm not 100% sure. Worst case, a salvage yard, best case, online or a part store. Mustang V, not b. That might be why you can't find it. Good luck.

I haven't done it. I just did the mechanical part. The wires exist, but they go no where. I have a full harness, but I don't know how to install it yet. I'm sorry, I wish I had a better answer for you.

Sounds like you really have a lot of work cut out for yourself.

@@RIPbiker13 yes, I have enuf projects for 2 lifetimes. I have sevral hotrod trucks. I like to mud run. But my little 71 f100 will be the first time I do all the body work myself. I have put in floors before. Other than that it's all been bolt together stuff I've dun. Like I've put bodies on frames & such.

@@jesseduke694 This was my first complete resto. I've built many vehicles over the years, but nothing on this level, and I really bit off a lot for my first real go.

Little of what I've done has been perfect, but it has been done with my own hands and that feels good. Don't sweat it. I was trying so hard to make it perfect I got overwhelmed. I keep saying I'm going to get back to it, and I mean it, but I don't. Currently, I have one of my bikes on the lift and hopefully that will be completed in a week or so. Then I'm going to pull my head out of my rear and get back to it, even if it isn't perfect, it needs to get done.

I misread that lol. I guess that's because you don't live by me. Besides, I'm loud. Three motorcycles and a lot of grinding and cussing!

I have a complete explanation of the Ospho in the cab video where I get it back from sandblasting. Long story short though, it converts the iron oxide into iron phosphate through magic. It's just an acid that strips molecules and stops the oxidation by changing the oxidation into an inert substance. I still recommend cleaning and sealing right after the Ospho though.

@@RIPbiker13 Great thanks Yeah absolutely deal before paint will check out the video thanks again

Is there a particular part you're having trouble with? I'm not a professional and these videos are more for entertainment than a how-to. It's more to share with my dad the progress I've made. In some areas, I know what doing and I love to provide insight at those moments. This was the first time I'd torn into a steering column.

I keep telling myself every week that I'm gonna get after it. Then something happens and I don't. Tree falling, storm, work. Always something and you're right about money, it's expensive.

I'm not entirely sure. If mine had been broken when I rebuilt it and I was unable to service the part, I'd replace the entire column with a tilt column. Whether that be from a later model or aftermarket.

@@RIPbiker13 thanks yeah I agree it still does shift although the collar is really sloppy and it flaps around so I don't really understand what keeps that collar in place unless there's something at the bottom of the tube that has broken that keeps it stabilized like a sleeve or something it's a little intimidating because I have never done it before although many things on that truck were intimidating but now since I've done it one or two times it's pretty easy. But anyway thanks for posting up the video it gives me a step-by-step to take my column out put it on the bench and actually see what broke if it is something that is unserviceable I probably would do like what you were saying I seen Max Auto parts or LMC truck one of those too they had a tilt steering column for like $800 that was supposed to be like a direct replacement not a universal for our trucks I figure 800 to 1,000 is really not that bad for a direct bolt in column

@@TheThirdWheel618 If I recall, there are springs in the bottom that proved pressure. Maybe one broke?

@@RIPbiker13 yeah either that or I think that there's a might be a plastic sleeve that keeps the shift tube centered from the main steering rod?

I did buy a b&m truck mega shifter I haven't installed it yet it's still in the box for that reason that a lot of these things are worn out inside I think the only replaceable parts is like maybe the springs and some bearings the rest are just like the turn signal switch and I'm I'm thinking what it could possibly be also as there might be a bushing that actually keeps the shift tube centered on the steering rod. The only thing about installing the mega shifter is is that I would have to have it a little bit more forward than I would like otherwise you wouldn't be able to slide the bench seat forward and all the pics I've seen it was right up against the bench seat so I wouldn't want to just install that floor shifter and not actually fix or even see what's going on wrong in that steering column I wouldn't just want to leave it like that

Good luck. It's a ton of work but the results are worth it.

The inner piece isn't seen from the outside and I have never seen it in the aftermarket scene. I only say it because it's easy enough to create a patch panel and know it won't be visible.

@@RIPbiker13 seems like it's a common bad spot. I'm surprised nobody has started producing it along with the outer corner

@@willhart7861 I am too. It is a bad spot and on most trucks of this vintage, it will be destroyed. I believe the reason we don't see it in repop is because it isn't seen. Then again, a lot of the repop sheet metal takes a lot of work to get right, so it's a lot of work no matter how you go about it.

@@RIPbiker13 I absolutely agree with you on that.

Thank you. It's been holding up well, so I trust the method used.

Thank you, I appreciate the compliment.

The cab mounts were no longer holding the cab. The floor board was sitting on the frame rail and that was rusted through too. The cab is much more solid now and the doors open and close again. No, the original mounts would nit have been good to keep.

This cost about $70 at the time. Metal has gone up in price and I don't have an answer anymore.