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thank you, i did post the long form vidoe a while back

yeah, still i see people can find the cham in the old models

glad you liked it :)

thank you very much

thank you, hope yours turn out great

you are wellcome

thank you, im glad you find it helpful

Thank you

hope you find it useful

thank you for the support

hope it comes out great!

There's not but thats a good suggestion, ill keep it in mind for a video in the future. For now feel free to ask and ill give you some insight according to what you are painting

they are "lone heroes" from bestiarum miniatures

@@resourcefulminiatures thank you man! Your channel is super!

@@riccardobaricchi8238 thnakyou, gladyou find it entretaining

not everyone has an airbrush

@@resourcefulminiatures Understood. My point is: if you want to avoid the coffee staining and the thinning that painting oil over acrylic causes, then (if you can) use oil over lacquers.

The military and car modeling community have been doing this for years. The miniature painting community has been slow to catch on.

Thank You

thank you

thank you very much

thank you, glad you liked it

thank you very much, comments like this are what keep me going 😁

thank you

Got a lot prepared when my skaventide box arrives, aiming to realese 2 vid per week during the season 😉

I have had the same issue, and i have just startet using glossy varnish before oilwash and matte varnish before setting the higlight with acrylic paints.

havent had this issue myself, i use oddorless artist spirits and prime with cheap hobby paints

​ @resourcefulminiatures ​ @axellupton I've heard somewhere that is probably due to the fact that all acrylic paints can somehow partially reactivate with liquids in general, so I was probably too harsh with the sponge/removal in general I guess.

n1 marta brush from the hobby shop, no big name brand but natural hair i keep on the side for fine detail only and no basecoating

sure can! on the to do list

@@resourcefulminiatures thanks so much!! they have been giving me problems in the grimdark style

Try Windsor and newton inks - better for infantry figures at the smaller scales imho

been meaning on trying my hand at 15mm will keep it in mind 😉

@@davidwasilewski Yeah I've given them a shot before, in fact the W&N white is what I like to use for my zenithaling. They act more like traditional washes, which isn't necessarily a bad thing.

I would also like to know, they look so cool

Bestiarum miniatures "lone heroes"

@@ghazevedo Bestiarum miniatures "lone heroes"

😁 carefull with over spilling too much water on the detail, on a deathguard video i used the same technique and too much water created a bleeding effect good for grime and weathering but not clean at all

Thank you, tried to leave as little unanswered questions as possible

Thank you

Thank you, glad you liked it

I would not use turpentine anyway but other mineral spirits ( possibly odorless), in any case the acrilic primer and layers will protect the plastic

@@francescogiovannimura7621 Thank you very much

@@Liritht to add more info: right now I have some artist white spirits but I am not sure if they are considered turpentine 🤔. I think what I used before (acquaragia) could be considere turpentine but I am not sure, nor I tried it on "naked" plastic, in any case they gave me issues on already painted minatures. Anyway, if you are in doubt you could experiment on some sprues first 🤔

i used artist odorless spirits for the whole of my space marine army and didnt find any issues, cant say about more aggresive spirits but havent heard someone bring it up before

Thank you

Where are the minis from?

@@felixkonig4736 bestiarum miniatures "lone heroes"

In my experience qtips are good for detail work or as shown loading with thinner to get more oil off the model's specific spots. But they don't last as long and if you're aggressive with it can start stringing the cotton on pointy models. Sponges are great for larger areas but it's harder (to me anyway) to tell visually how much thinner is loaded on them. I also tend to cut mine into smaller triangles not only to get more uses out of them and for chipping armor.

I find that the little eye shadow sponges work much better than Q-tips. No risk of leaving little cotton remnants behind on your minis

bit of what both of the other fellas said, q tips can leave cotton strands when working over pointy areas(im suing ones wich are quite compact) and are better for more detail work. Make up sponges are good for wider areas with less details like cloaks or, like on the muscles from my wendigo video, big models in general. Both can get some spirits to enhance the cleaning but i prefer using the sponges (which wont get all the work done) and remove a further layer with the q tips for a multi stage process. Alternatively you cna cut the make up sponges to fit smaller details, the can be less agressive than the q tip. Dont have experience with the little eye shadow sponges myself

Thank you, well waht matter is for you to enjoy it in the end

depedning on dilution from 30 min to 1 and a half hours should do the trick for either allowing the spirits to evaporate or allow the oils to get a grip for a multi stage cleanup, it will really vary between colors, im still learning the tiems on each of my more exotic colors. thinner wise white spirits will do i think, i use the odorless artist one made for oils since smells can be quite toxic(national brand nothing special)

I'm curious about this question too. At what points in the process do you varnish and what types of varnish (matt, gloss). Thanks for another great video!

i never varnish, so it isnt necessary. A gloss varnish before oils can help the wash run into recesses mucch neater(ofter aused for space amrines pinwashing and a mate one can be used at the end to kill any sheen the oils may leave)

@@robfader2432 i never varnish, so it isnt necessary. A gloss varnish before oils can help the wash run into recesses mucch neater(ofter aused for space amrines pinwashing and a mate one can be used at the end to kill any sheen the oils may leave)

no more than 5 min, with mettallics i suggest to wait longer, but as long as you are gentle no paint will come off

@@resourcefulminiatures Thanks! and how long do you leave the oil wash on before wiping that off

@@lightkon1477 from 30-60 minutes, it depends between colors and dilution, youll figure it out with time, Btw oil wash masterclass coming out tomorrow

thank you!

thank you

maybe chek out this video th-cam.com/video/9Pu5mswKvQM/w-d-xo.html were i glaze light blue into white, might be helpful