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Well, you can't charge LifePO4 batteries below freezing without damaging the battery, and most lifepo4 batteries now days have protection built into the bms to not even accept a charge below freezing. So, these type of batteries will not be able to be used if they are not in some sort of heated space. Some companies do make "self-heating" batteries that use solar to power the heating elements, but tbh your situation sounds very extreme and I don't know how long anything would hold up in those conditions. I would look into just getting a big power station that you can take with you when you leave, most of the good ones are fairly quiet.

Hmmm... whatcha need MY bluetti for?

@ to charge my phone obviously 😂😂😂 or maybe I need it to make another video 🤔😂

I think you will be happy with them. I only got 1 of those and wish I had 4 cuz it's a really cool battery!

Guess you skipped some stuff in the video. at 4:45 I do a capacity test. 104.9ah is what it got.

Glad you liked those, more are coming!

No, it's DC only. You would need to add an inverter if you wanted AC. It's only $69 US. I didn't need AC for my immediate needs, but I could easily add a small inverter.

@@enigmascape Nice, as a DIY person myself i think I can make one with an inverter also. AC is v important for many AC devices.

@@SaapeXD Yea, would be easy to just use the side lugs to attach an inverter. I'm working on a video now that will be a long format video with a small 300w inverter I have laying around, but this battery has a 150a bms, so it would work well with any inverter upto 2000w. I'm also going to add a small 10a inline mppt solar charge controller to it as well and keep it charged off of a 100w solar panel. I think this battery box is a pretty good base to start with and then customize it to your needs. I personally only need the DC for 2 specific things right now because I have a ton of other power stations and stuff for my AC appliances. I'm basically planning to use this to run my diesel heater in the winter, and then use to power a 12v refrigerator in the car for road trips during spring & summer, both of which run on DC.

😂

There is NO 400Ah battery sized group 31 or smaller that exists. 140Ah is larger than 99% of other batteries this size, most are only 100Ah. We are talking about amp hours here, not CCA.

It's all DC so it would work for a 12v air compressor like you would keep in your car, but not an AC powered one. You would need to add an inverter for it to have AC power. My plan with it is to run a 12v refrigerator and a small USB fan and I wanted a LOT of capacity to be able to run a 12v fridge for 3-4 days, and don't really need AC power. This battery has almost 1800wh of capacity which is quite alot.

The reason for the larger cable from battery is because It is where all the load comes through to power both the AC inverter and the DC loads combined. You could put a fuse on the battery terminal as well, just size it properly to accommodate the ac and the dc amp draw combined. The DC side is very variable. For example, I use a DC coffee pot that pulls about 12amps, and a several PD100 usb ports which draw another 8-10 amps etc, various LED lights and quite a few different things. The inverter I know exactly how many amps its max draw is, and the wire gauge for that is appropriate for that item, but the DC side has many different variables, and that's why I have 1 fuse for the AC side and 1 for the DC side.

Not at all. This setup can handle upto 400w of solar input. Around 200w would work quite well. My rule of thumb for where I live (a very sunny location) is 200w of solar for every 100ah of battery (at 12v).

I see no reason why not. Only issue would be to make sure to not overload the amp rating of the BMS on your battery of choice with whatever you hook to the bus bar. Very few batteries that would even fit in this box could handle the 175a rating of the plug, so of course you want to keep things under that as well, but yea, I see no reason why not.

@ yes, some LED lights, a max air fan, maybe a diesel heater. And a circuit breaker before the buss bar. That way I’ll use the 50amp in for charging off my 50amp Dc to dc Renogy charger off the alternator (starter batt).

@@joesalemi2414 Yea, none of that stuff is a heavy load at all really. Diesel heater is maybe 10-12a max, the max fan is maybe 5-6a and led's are 1-5 amps maybe... so yea, should work perfectly fine. I think I'd maybe switch it tho and use the 175a plug for the dc charger because the 50a input will be for a longer period of time and is maxing out that Anderson connector. Sounds like your other loads are less than the dc to dc charger needs to push really.

@ awe perfect. You’re reading my mind about using the 175 for charge input off the DC TO DC. I’ll also have an 1Kw inverter in truck bed separate from the LICITTI box probly to run the fridge during driving. Battery gets full charge capability then in 2 hours of driving. Also shore power. Overkill but yeah all good reason to use the 175 as input charging. Thank you.

It's actually been working great so far even though the hose is not even reaching all the way inside yet! I've been running it now for a couple of weeks and it makes it super cozy inside. I decided to split the video up because I ordered some additional hose from Aliexpress and it took 3 weeks and then they ended up sending the wrong size, so I have to replace it and the parts won't even be here for another few weeks. I just can't wait that much longer to put the video out and I figured it was best to just do another video after being in use for a month or so and also finish the install. Wish I would have got one of these a long time ago! I've even ordered another one (a bit smaller one) to have as a backup and use for camping.

I don't have 2 of the Wattcycle bluetooth ones, but I had a similar wonder on how it works with 2 battereies, so I did do a video about that with a different brand here th-cam.com/video/oJ1la9sfTh8/w-d-xo.html I would imagine the wattcycle app works in a similar way with 2 batteries in the app.

Thanks, pretty straight forward.

Not sure what you're power needs are really, but If you only go there once a year I think you might be better off with a portable power station and just bring it with you when you go. Those are pretty harsh conditions to deal with, especially if you are not on sight to deal with issues as the come up. Good luck!

They have an option to add a 20a AC charger, or it has a 10a mppt charge controller built into it. That would be about a 120w solar panel is all, but you could wire up an external charge controller that can handle more and charge it up using the same anderson plug on the side meant for the ac charger.

Lol, well thanks... You got a pretty cool channel too. I have a project that I will be working on this spring that I am sure you will look at and lose any respect I may have gained from ya. hahaha. I'm calling it my "hobolander". I am an absolutely terrible woodworker, and we live in an RV, so I don't have proper tools for most building type projects either (if it aint cordless I probably don't have it), so it will all be rather hokey I am sure, but... It started out as just a quick and dirty box on a flatbed just to keep my stuff from getting all wet when I moved cuz I knew it would need to be outside for a few months and I didn't trust a tarp... It's been sitting in my yard now for a year like that and I just keep looking at it thinking, 'I need to just slap a solar system on that baby, (I already use it now as a solar array with panels all over it) throw a mattress in there and maybe an a/c on it and go camping with this thing! Anyway... your trailer is really cool, and you will be laughing when you see mine in a few months :)

The fuse block is just like a fuse block in your car for any sort of 12v stuff you might have. 12v LED lighting, a cigarette lighter port which you could use to power a 12v fridge etc. Just make sure the wire guage used bwtween the bus bar and fuse block can handle the total amps of the entire fuseblock combined.

@enigmascape thank you.

You're not supposed to use the Anderson connection on the battery itself for anything but a hub connection , but you can use the usb c input for a 100w solar panel I think, I did it with a 50w panel .

@@leeinwis Yes you can use the Anderson in/out on the battery. I asked Dr. Prepare. They just didn't give me a specific answer. I've already done it. But you can't use it for solar input, because the solar controller is in the hub.

@@LipsMalloy IC, you wouldn't think under a 100w would even need a controller , anyway I haven't received my hub yet. I need a usbc to a 5.5mm to charge my lil Bluetti from the Dr prepare.

@@leeinwis You can use the car charger cable. The new hub has an Anderson out and they give you an adapter for car charger. Which Bluetti? They typically take a DC7909

I'm not sure. Considering the shape of it I would guess it uses cylindrical cells, but specifically how those are wired I am not sure without taking it apart, and I don't really do the whole take things apart thing really.

@@ryanalder9691 I believe they do now, but the exact ones I had did not. Not sure if they even sell the ones that don’t have it anymore.

Its from aliexpress... s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dkz1HaD I got the BL140F one. Theres several different types on this page with different capacity capabilities and different holders for the screen part.