I Forgot to mention, this DOES have cold temp charge protection as well, just like all Dr. Prepare LifePO4 Batteries. Affiliate Links: ✅ Amazon: geni.us/drpreparepowermax100 ✅ Official Website: bit.ly/powermax100ah
Best for solar newbies using a low cost portable solar panels as there is no need for any solar charge configuration with its own solar charging port. This alot cheaper per watt compared to a bluetti, jackery, or Ecoflow that also have their own solar charging ports. Thanks for the review.
I bought the same thing a week ago. Battery arrived max hub hasn’t arrived yet. With coupons it was about 250. I probably would have been better off just buying their regular battery. With the coupon it would have been about 180, then coulda bought a better mppt and been cheaper on the long run. Lesson learned. But I see it working nicely for a portable fridge pulling about 50 watts then wiring my car to the max hub input. That way I can shut off the car and the fridge run on the battery. Then when I start the car again I’ll both charge the battery from 70 to 100 watts and the fridge only pulls about 50
The hub comes by usps and battery by either fedex or ups. My hub came the day before the battery. Not sure why they don't just put it in the same box and save some money on shipping... And yea, I think its perfect for a 12v fridge. That's what I plan to do with it. I like that the hub pops in and is all easy to handle without a bunch of wires and such hanging off of it or having to spend hours building some kinda box to house all the stuff. It's kind of a specialty battery for sure and has a lot of capacity considering it caters to low power devices, and that's what makes it kind of unique I guess.
I'm not sure what use case works for the Power Station. I bought one of the previous generation batteries and power stations, but for my needs I'd have been better off just getting their regular 100AH battery. I have zero use for the Power Station after configuring our trailer for LiFePo4.
Can you use a 100W solar panel that has usbc output to charge it via the usbc in/out? What is the max in/out for the Anderson on the battery itself (without using the hub)?
You're not supposed to use the Anderson connection on the battery itself for anything but a hub connection , but you can use the usb c input for a 100w solar panel I think, I did it with a 50w panel .
@@leeinwis Yes you can use the Anderson in/out on the battery. I asked Dr. Prepare. They just didn't give me a specific answer. I've already done it. But you can't use it for solar input, because the solar controller is in the hub.
@@LipsMalloy IC, you wouldn't think under a 100w would even need a controller , anyway I haven't received my hub yet. I need a usbc to a 5.5mm to charge my lil Bluetti from the Dr prepare.
@@leeinwis You can use the car charger cable. The new hub has an Anderson out and they give you an adapter for car charger. Which Bluetti? They typically take a DC7909
I wonder if you can use cigarette port from your car to charge this battery via that Anderson-in port (that specified for solar)? It's still 12V (~100W) with the car charger. Please let me know if that's possible or the MPPT port can't be used with the car charger.
Its from aliexpress... s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dkz1HaD I got the BL140F one. Theres several different types on this page with different capacity capabilities and different holders for the screen part.
I'm really not sure where this battery fits in with the overall scheme of things because it's a rather unusual concept in a way. Their previous iteration of this could only work in parallel so you would be limited to 12v and 4 batteries max. This one added the ability to be able to run series and parallel so you could build a large system out of it if you wanted to use it as sort of a foundational platform to expand on. My personal thought is, I think it's best suited as a standalone little setup for powering only your DC devices in a camping or even a vanlife type of setup that uses a DC refrigerator. I could even see having maybe 2 of them if you had a lot of DC stuff to power. I actually have some experiments I would like to do with this to see what's possible with having more than 1 of them because I have a lot of questions I would like to get answers too. For example, the solar input on the hub can only bring in 85w max (100w panel is what's recommended), but if I had 2 connected in parallel and a 100w panel hooked to each, I wonder how well the batteries would stay in balance. I also wonder what happens if I had 2 in series (so running 24v) how this solar input works when charging each battery with 12v, and what would happen to the balance. Anyway, idk... I only have 1 of them. Maybe at some point I'll see if they will send me another one so I can test this sorta stuff. Dr. Prepare has been very good to me and I really appreciate the way they do things. This is an unusual product, but I really dig it. What I intend to use this for mostly is to power a DC refrigerator (whenever I get one). I feel like it's the perfect inexpensive way to do that rather than having the dc fridge plugged into my main power station which costs a lot more per watt-hour compared to this baby (a typical portable power station with 1280wh would cost 2-3x as much). So, I see it as a great way to supplement a larger system to take the DC load off of a larger system and get more bang for your buck. I should have asked people in the video to comment on what they think they would use this for, cuz I am really curious to hear some ideas others might have for it.
Its this one www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0D2SHMFHF but I LEGIT would not recommend this thing, its a POS. I already melted off the cigarette plug on the end of it since I made this video after only about 5 uses. They show in a photo it being used on like a Jackery power station, and there's just NO WAY thats gonna work...It NOW says on the listing that it draws 300w (it actually uses between 170-200, but even then it's too much). I cut the melted end off of it and it's using 14awg wire which is BARELY good enough for the 170w really, and is more like 15a @ 12v. The only reason I even mess with it is because I got it for free for review on one of my other channels or I would have sent it back. It does make good coffee relatively quickly, and just the right size for my needs, and I like that it's DC instead of AC so I'm not getting the energy loss of converting from DC to AC, but it's just NOT SAFE at all the way it comes. I'm going to take it apart and run new 12 or 10 awg wire and install an inline fuse, and slap an Anderson plug on the end and use it that way. I have another 24v coffee pot from the same company I experimented with in the past that's like a single serve one, and it's a POS too. Not totally unsafe like this one, but just takes like 30m to make a single cup of coffee which is just pretty worthless. If I wasn't sorta obsessed with the idea of making coffee using DC, I'd throw them both in the trash.
Depends on the use case I suppose. Most of my power stations could never handle anything close to their max capacity at all times either... not even close. I have a dozen or so 300w power stations, and they would be dead in 1 hour if you actually used the whole 300w out of its inverter because they only have a 300wh battery. On this, a 24v panel at 4.2a would bring in the full 84w, and on a good day should pull in 400Wh of power. If more solar input was needed, you could just add an external charge controller like you would any other battery that doesn't have this little hub attached. It is, afterall, just a 12.8v 100ah battery like any other, with the BONUS feature of having this cool little DC hub. A small power station in the same price range usually only accepts about the same input and has only a 300-400wh battery in total. This has 3x that in capacity. But if you needed to completely drain the entire battery every night, and then completely recharge it from dead every single day, then yea... you need something much larger than this. The hub that this comes with is DC only, so it's not meant to have some massive draw on it, at least not from the DC hub portion, and would provide a couple of days of autonomy for a small load, and that's a good thing. It's not meant to be a high-power system, however, it is a typical 100ah Lifepo4 battery that COULD handle the same load as any other 12.8v Lifepo4 battery if you wanted to add your own charge controller and inverter etc. And none of those other batteries for $249 could bring in ANY solar on their own without external equipment. Additionally, lets not forget this also has a 100w bidirectional PD port to charge it with as well. Point is, I think to call this "useless" is a bit harsh. It's not going to meet the needs of some, but most people who are only concerned with their DC loads, don't need to completely drain the battery overnight, and then charge it back up to 100% every day just from solar. No system should be designed to use 100% of its capacity in a single night, and only the very best systems are designed to completely recharge a dead battery bank in a single day either.
I Forgot to mention, this DOES have cold temp charge protection as well, just like all Dr. Prepare LifePO4 Batteries. Affiliate Links:
✅ Amazon: geni.us/drpreparepowermax100
✅ Official Website: bit.ly/powermax100ah
Best for solar newbies using a low cost portable solar panels as there is no need for any solar charge configuration with its own solar charging port. This alot cheaper per watt compared to a bluetti, jackery, or Ecoflow that also have their own solar charging ports. Thanks for the review.
I bought the same thing a week ago. Battery arrived max hub hasn’t arrived yet.
With coupons it was about 250.
I probably would have been better off just buying their regular battery. With the coupon it would have been about 180, then coulda bought a better mppt and been cheaper on the long run. Lesson learned.
But I see it working nicely for a portable fridge pulling about 50 watts then wiring my car to the max hub input. That way I can shut off the car and the fridge run on the battery. Then when I start the car again I’ll both charge the battery from 70 to 100 watts and the fridge only pulls about 50
The hub comes by usps and battery by either fedex or ups. My hub came the day before the battery. Not sure why they don't just put it in the same box and save some money on shipping... And yea, I think its perfect for a 12v fridge. That's what I plan to do with it. I like that the hub pops in and is all easy to handle without a bunch of wires and such hanging off of it or having to spend hours building some kinda box to house all the stuff. It's kind of a specialty battery for sure and has a lot of capacity considering it caters to low power devices, and that's what makes it kind of unique I guess.
I'm not sure what use case works for the Power Station. I bought one of the previous generation batteries and power stations, but for my needs I'd have been better off just getting their regular 100AH battery. I have zero use for the Power Station after configuring our trailer for LiFePo4.
Can you use a 100W solar panel that has usbc output to charge it via the usbc in/out? What is the max in/out for the Anderson on the battery itself (without using the hub)?
You're not supposed to use the Anderson connection on the battery itself for anything but a hub connection , but you can use the usb c input for a 100w solar panel I think, I did it with a 50w panel .
@@leeinwis Yes you can use the Anderson in/out on the battery. I asked Dr. Prepare. They just didn't give me a specific answer. I've already done it. But you can't use it for solar input, because the solar controller is in the hub.
@@LipsMalloy IC, you wouldn't think under a 100w would even need a controller , anyway I
haven't received my hub yet. I need a usbc to a 5.5mm to charge my lil Bluetti from the Dr prepare.
@@leeinwis You can use the car charger cable. The new hub has an Anderson out and they give you an adapter for car charger. Which Bluetti? They typically take a DC7909
I wonder if you can use cigarette port from your car to charge this battery via that Anderson-in port (that specified for solar)? It's still 12V (~100W) with the car charger. Please let me know if that's possible or the MPPT port can't be used with the car charger.
could just do usbc to usbc
Whats the link for that battery capacity tester?
Its from aliexpress... s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dkz1HaD I got the BL140F one. Theres several different types on this page with different capacity capabilities and different holders for the screen part.
Nice. So is this one more of a standalone type for small stuff, or would it work okay as a system?
I'm really not sure where this battery fits in with the overall scheme of things because it's a rather unusual concept in a way. Their previous iteration of this could only work in parallel so you would be limited to 12v and 4 batteries max. This one added the ability to be able to run series and parallel so you could build a large system out of it if you wanted to use it as sort of a foundational platform to expand on. My personal thought is, I think it's best suited as a standalone little setup for powering only your DC devices in a camping or even a vanlife type of setup that uses a DC refrigerator. I could even see having maybe 2 of them if you had a lot of DC stuff to power. I actually have some experiments I would like to do with this to see what's possible with having more than 1 of them because I have a lot of questions I would like to get answers too. For example, the solar input on the hub can only bring in 85w max (100w panel is what's recommended), but if I had 2 connected in parallel and a 100w panel hooked to each, I wonder how well the batteries would stay in balance. I also wonder what happens if I had 2 in series (so running 24v) how this solar input works when charging each battery with 12v, and what would happen to the balance. Anyway, idk... I only have 1 of them. Maybe at some point I'll see if they will send me another one so I can test this sorta stuff. Dr. Prepare has been very good to me and I really appreciate the way they do things. This is an unusual product, but I really dig it. What I intend to use this for mostly is to power a DC refrigerator (whenever I get one). I feel like it's the perfect inexpensive way to do that rather than having the dc fridge plugged into my main power station which costs a lot more per watt-hour compared to this baby (a typical portable power station with 1280wh would cost 2-3x as much). So, I see it as a great way to supplement a larger system to take the DC load off of a larger system and get more bang for your buck. I should have asked people in the video to comment on what they think they would use this for, cuz I am really curious to hear some ideas others might have for it.
Hey there! Did you ever get the chance to see if they'd let you experiment with another unit?
For those interested in this?
link us to the 12v coffee maker
Its this one www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0D2SHMFHF but I LEGIT would not recommend this thing, its a POS. I already melted off the cigarette plug on the end of it since I made this video after only about 5 uses. They show in a photo it being used on like a Jackery power station, and there's just NO WAY thats gonna work...It NOW says on the listing that it draws 300w (it actually uses between 170-200, but even then it's too much). I cut the melted end off of it and it's using 14awg wire which is BARELY good enough for the 170w really, and is more like 15a @ 12v. The only reason I even mess with it is because I got it for free for review on one of my other channels or I would have sent it back. It does make good coffee relatively quickly, and just the right size for my needs, and I like that it's DC instead of AC so I'm not getting the energy loss of converting from DC to AC, but it's just NOT SAFE at all the way it comes. I'm going to take it apart and run new 12 or 10 awg wire and install an inline fuse, and slap an Anderson plug on the end and use it that way. I have another 24v coffee pot from the same company I experimented with in the past that's like a single serve one, and it's a POS too. Not totally unsafe like this one, but just takes like 30m to make a single cup of coffee which is just pretty worthless. If I wasn't sorta obsessed with the idea of making coffee using DC, I'd throw them both in the trash.
4.2 amps will take 25 hrs with zero draw to charge. Useless.
Depends on the use case I suppose. Most of my power stations could never handle anything close to their max capacity at all times either... not even close. I have a dozen or so 300w power stations, and they would be dead in 1 hour if you actually used the whole 300w out of its inverter because they only have a 300wh battery. On this, a 24v panel at 4.2a would bring in the full 84w, and on a good day should pull in 400Wh of power. If more solar input was needed, you could just add an external charge controller like you would any other battery that doesn't have this little hub attached. It is, afterall, just a 12.8v 100ah battery like any other, with the BONUS feature of having this cool little DC hub. A small power station in the same price range usually only accepts about the same input and has only a 300-400wh battery in total. This has 3x that in capacity. But if you needed to completely drain the entire battery every night, and then completely recharge it from dead every single day, then yea... you need something much larger than this. The hub that this comes with is DC only, so it's not meant to have some massive draw on it, at least not from the DC hub portion, and would provide a couple of days of autonomy for a small load, and that's a good thing. It's not meant to be a high-power system, however, it is a typical 100ah Lifepo4 battery that COULD handle the same load as any other 12.8v Lifepo4 battery if you wanted to add your own charge controller and inverter etc. And none of those other batteries for $249 could bring in ANY solar on their own without external equipment. Additionally, lets not forget this also has a 100w bidirectional PD port to charge it with as well. Point is, I think to call this "useless" is a bit harsh. It's not going to meet the needs of some, but most people who are only concerned with their DC loads, don't need to completely drain the battery overnight, and then charge it back up to 100% every day just from solar. No system should be designed to use 100% of its capacity in a single night, and only the very best systems are designed to completely recharge a dead battery bank in a single day either.
84W solar charging ... yup that's basically useless.