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I need to do this on my S 70. Is it the same?

What? Where?

I couldn’t find the message

Had the same problem

Looks cool!

Stop been a baby!

It came out great!

Working of fuel injectors in a dirt driveway. That's the way to do it!

Whats ur part number on the injectors?

did pretty damn good my guy!!! OBS world..

Good day to you AGAIN. This time my Tahoe fuel lines rotted and leaked. Your easy pump access door paid off again. Thank you big time.

This is the dumbest thing you could possibly do. This takes longer than actually taking the tank out. People do it because they may have to do it again. Let me tell you 1 thing, boo-boo, if you dont buy aftermarket bullcrap than the chances of you having to take out a couple of bolts, a few hoses, and a connection or 2 again are unlikely. Do the job the right way the 1st time, and the chances of you having to do it again are pretty slim. And you won't have to cut a Flintstones hole in the floorboard.

That is a great idea. I need to change tensioners on my bike soon. I thought about making a socket but I remembered I have a Performance Tool 7/8 deep socket that already has a cut out like that. Its for replacing O2 sensors on some GM vehicles. 7/8" is 22.23mm so I'm going to try it. Thanks for the video. I will subscribe.

Screwdriver on orings is always the best choice , that would never damage them 😂

It needs to be in TDC position so there is no tension on the valve springs valves should be closed cam lobs in the down position this will give it the maximum tension that it needs.

Wahoo this is awesome

I bought a mallory distributor that is aluminium and wasnt cheap. I also bought a cheap aluminum one off Amazon that was like 40 bucks. The only difference that I can tell is the Mallory sticker. Great video btw..

All you loosened was the 13 m bolt on the block to move the cap eh

The last 2 locks when did you installed them

I might add, use petroleum jelly (Vasoline), or thick oil, Lucas, STP, Motor Honey or wheel bearing grease on the o-rings to make installation MUCH easier. Dont use anti-sieze, as it contains aluminum , nickel or copper particles and can clog an injector.

hey i just my swap to the th400 and i need a drive shaft. Did you custom order it online and if you did can you help me out with that.

Do not forget too remove output rubber ring seal inside the tail shaft. You need oil to make it too the splines. The rest is all good

Great video, thank you!

Thanks for the video Man. Also, the approximate measurements are awesome. Rock on and play hard.

Excellent man!!!

Good job

Can this trick be used for the secondary tensioner as well without pressing out the cams?

EWWW GOHD I CAN SMELL IT its been permanently burnt into my noses

I usually do all my mechanical work but I like to check out videos like yours before I dive into a project, one thing for sure is I wish I had a brother like you that can fix things with one hand!

What did you get the 6 lug axles out of

Needed this lol. Didn't want to drop a 30 gallon tank 😂

Thanks for the video. That helped my husband some. Question though.... The bolt won't thread fully into the pin because the pin turns as he is threading the bolt into it. What stops the pin from turning when you are threading the bolt into it?

What model and year are you working on?

A pair of channel locks does the trick too. It’s that INNER cam chain tensioner that is a REAL MF’r to get in and out.

Why won't my tensioner come off?

Were the u joints causing the ''clunk'' ? Was the ''clunk'' gone after you replaced the u joints?

Thanks bud. Helped alot

Does the driver side come out by itself without having to remove the passenger side? The fuel regulator tab on the fuel rail busted off mine, the entire fuel rail has to be removed and replaced. But the passenger side fuel rail is fine.

How long did the whole process take?

I have to agree TOTALLY with brown67's comment below - Excellent details & measurements with simple instructions! Thank you so much!!!!

Does it need to be on TDC for this adjustment

I have the same tahoe 99 same color too I cant getbit to pass emmisions it has the p1345 code it's always had this code I have owned this Tahoe for 6 years now and always passed with that code on, now it wont hc and co is too over the limit I replaced the cap and rotor two years ago never changed the distributor think I need a new distributor not sure what to do and I've never replaced distributor before any help would be great thank you I just subbed to not sure if I need a new distributor or just a tool scanner to adjust the timing to 0 or close to it

💖🐇🦄💯🤟

Thanks for the tip with the pin. Tearing into my 87 v10 today to do outer bearings and seals. Great video.

When you turn your distributor what part exactly of the distributor are you turning ? im planning on changing mine but i never seen what/where exactly to grab and turn ?

Wow! So happy i found your video , ill do mine tomorrow !! Thanks for the help

Dangerous and lazy way of doing it

Where did you get your injector from? And are they any good?

Good stuff hoping this gets rid of my annoying lower end “ tap “ sounds like a timing chain slap

How does the scan tool work? I’m not willing to buy a $2000 thing for one time I’m going to use it. Is it a OBD2 thing so I could buy a $300 one? Can you possibly rent them from a auto parts store?