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@@seabee12333 yes, at idle when turning the wheel by hand, it is a TINY amount of oil you’ll see. One technique you can try is to mix up a quart of pre-mix gas and oil… like a 32:1 ratio. Drain your tank and add the premix, then unhook your oil line. You can now safely let the bike idle with the oil hose removed, measuring the output that way. My HUNCH is that you’re going to be okay, but always best to check!

@@KennethGerecke-k8w agreed! I went with a modern 12v electronic ignition to ultimately fix it.

I think so too!

I would recommend going to a forum like yamaha-enduros.com for troubleshooting help.

Hi BB. Did you solve the bulb staying on issue? I went to change the points and condeser in my 75' and I'm having the same exact issue - its maddening! All I can figure is that its grounding some where else so the light stays on constantly regardless if the points are closed or open? Thanks in advance..

@@IsaacLeyva-tx6sc Hello, yes! Apparently, the bulb will not go off completely, but just dim a bit. I ended up using my multimeter hooked up to it the same way but in the "Ohms" setting. I just turned it until the numbers changed and that's when the points open. Hope this helps.

Sorry for the late reply. You can consider these two independent systems. You don't need the lighting coil at all to fire the spark plug!

If you have a 240v plug and a way to vent the smoke, I could definitely recommend this. It’s not perfect and it’s not built to last forever, but for the price, it roasts excellent coffee.

I'm not sure what probe I was using at the time of this video, but I DO know that a 1.5C idle noise is very high. You should be able to get that down to 0.1C with a system that is free of ground loops and interference.

Absolutely! Finally got it running like a top. They're fun bikes. I had the full trio of '74 DT bikes... the 175, 250, and 400. The 250 was my least favorite of the three. The 175 is just SO light and nimble, so it's a blast to toss around. The 400 2-stroke is a beast, so the motor alone makes it fun to ride. The 250 feels like it has the same weight of the 400 (and it nearly does) without the fun power advantage.

That’s a good roaster as well. It has less than half the power of the Smola, so it’s limited in that respect. But the convenience of 120v power on the SR is nice.

Are you referring to the silver plate with the hole in it? This is supposed to be aligned so that you can see the pin through the hole. The purpose of it is to actually HELP you find the pin and the dot that it’s pointing to. Maybe your plate is rotated out of position?

​@@hermetheuscoffee Yes, actually have it so that the hole is lined up with the pin pretty closely. But my plate is unlike this one in that it almost completely covers the area where the pin is unless you're looking through the hole. When you're tightening down the nut it's hard to keep it perfectly in line as it wants to move. It's very easy for me to line up the pin without the plate in the way. I'm just wondering if there's another purpose for the plate or if I can just take it off and it will be okay. Thanks!

@@bb8215 I THINK you’d be okay to remove it. I can’t think of any other functional purpose for it.

I briefly touch on shims at the 25:00 mark. If there’s something you feel I’ve missed, please add to the comments to help others. Thanks!

I don’t really do motorcycle troubleshooting in TH-cam comments, but Yamaha-enduros.com is an excellent website to find help from other owners.

I don't own one, but based on the price point and specs, I would temper expectations (much like with this Smola unit). That is, it will almost certainly work well and roast coffee. The unknown will be the reliability and availability of replacement parts. (Things like heat elements and electronics would be easy swap with similar parts, but the roast chamber itself is likely unique to this roaster.)

I would recommend joining yamaha-enduros.com and submit the question. There are many experts on DTs there who can help troubleshoot!

THANKS FOR THE INFORMATION. How do i know if my condesator is bad what are the siymptoms @@hermetheuscoffee

Thanks so much, Johnny!

We TRIED doing one during my visit, but ran into some technical issues, so the footage got scrapped. They should be creating a new introduction/demo video in the next 10 days!

I don't recall exactly what it was. I only recall that when I looked for it on Ali Express, I was able to find it and could verify that it was used in small handheld vacuums.

The Co-Pilot is a plug and play solution to automate your 3e. (Which is an excellent roaster!) If you want to go the DIY route then the Yocto path will be a bit more difficult (you’ll absolutely need to re-flash the firmware with some mods). While I absolutely love Yocto devices, I think Phidgets are a bit more user-friendly for DIYers. I have another video on how to do this for Phidgets. Sadly, the Yocto-watt probably won’t do what you’re hoping to do with it, which assume is monitor power of the 3e via Artisan. The Yocto Watt can’t handle that much current. What you COULD do is add a current transformer to it, then apply a formula in Artisan to convert the low-current CT signal to the full current reading. For instance, if your CT reduces current 50x, then you’ll need to amplify it 50x in Artisan. I have the Yocto Watt, so it certainly can do what you’re after… it’s just a pain. A simple $20 ammeter with a donut-style CT on Amazon is an easier approach. Good luck!

It IS threaded, but I'm not sure what the thread pitch is.

By any chance, do you know if the hole for the bean probe threaded, and if so, is this M6 or M8 or something else? I ordered the roaster and am looking to buy some thermocouples.

@sato2097 it is M6 threaded.

@@hengkaiwee Thanks a lot for the answer!

No, I don't have a video on that, but it's just an old NovoRoaster... a touchscreen automated air roaster. It's a beautiful machine, but the controls are a bit outdated by today's standards. That is, the heat and loft control is essentially scripted steps. It's not PID control. So you can certainly get good results for a given coffee and batch size, but if your variables change too much, so will your end roast. (Variables such as batch size, ambient air temp, line voltage, etc.)

I don’t have this anymore, but it’s simply a SPAL radiator fan mounted to the bottom of an RV roof vent/screen. It’s a dead simple design. The beans rest on the screen bottom and the fan pulls air through the beans and out the bottom.

My update is an unfortunate one... my Smola roaster melted into oblivion. In the end it was user error, but also illustrates a design flaw. Yes, I was able to completely automate it by creating an adapter for a Hermetheus Roaster Co-Pilot (an automation device that we make for Coffee Crafters Artisan and Valenta roasters). The Co-Pilot replaces the heat knob on the roaster, so turning it by hand isn't possible anymore. After a roast finished, I turned off the loft to dump the beans, but the Co-Pilot robotics left the heat elements on. This was my fault. I should have turned the entire roaster power off. So while there was no loft running, the elements were still glowing red hot as I dumped and cooled my beans. That's when the fun molten metal drama started! The design flaw? Every coffee roaster should incorporate a high limit safety switch to protect against this kind of bone-headedness. The Smola lacks that. It's still a decent little roaster for the money. And yes, I was running it on 60hz/240v. I could still recommend it. From a strict "roast quality" standpoint, it's outstanding! From a design and ergonomic standpoint, it has some flaws. My biggest complaint is that the roast chamber lacks ANY kind of grip/handle to dump the beans. My best guess is that Smola intended for us to use the roast chamber as the bean cooling chamber, but I'm not a fan of that approach. The roast chamber retains so much heat from the mass of metal and glass, it makes for a very slow cooling process (which runs the risk of "baking" the beans). I crafted some cabinet handles on the roast to assist with dumping beans.

Yes, it’s been mentioned, and I’m really eager to give it a shot!

My update is an unfortunate one... my Smola roaster melted into oblivion. In the end it was user error, but also illustrates a design flaw. Yes, I was able to completely automate it by creating an adapter for a Hermetheus Roaster Co-Pilot (an automation device that we make for Coffee Crafters Artisan and Valenta roasters). The Co-Pilot replaces the heat knob on the roaster, so turning it by hand isn't possible anymore. After a roast finished, I turned off the loft to dump the beans, but the Co-Pilot robotics left the heat elements on. This was my fault. I should have turned the entire roaster power off. So while there was no loft running, the elements were still glowing red hot as I dumped and cooled my beans. That's when the fun molten metal drama started! The design flaw? Every coffee roaster should incorporate a high limit safety switch to protect against this kind of bone-headedness. The Smola lacks that. It's still a decent little roaster for the money. I could still recommend it. From a strict "roast quality" standpoint, it's outstanding! From a design and ergonomic standpoint, it has some flaw. My biggest complaint is that the roast chamber lacks ANY kind of grip/handle to dump the beans. My best guess is that Smola intended for us to use the roast chamber as the bean cooling chamber, but I'm not a fan of that approach. The roast chamber retains so much heat from the mass of metal and glass, it makes for a very slow cooling process (which runs the risk of "baking" the beans). I crafted some cabinet handles on the roast to assist with dumping beans.

Thank you! The oil output volumes come directly from the Yamaha DT250A service manual.