วีดีโอ

Question: If most mfgs. tell you that the best test is the button on the breaker itself, then what's the point of carrying these faulty testers if you are trying to determine if branch circuit run is too long to detect AF? If these testers are suspect then you can't rule out the tester vs run length. So if using the button on the breakers trips it wouldn't you just want to estimate branch circuit run length & cross reference mfgs. install instructions on run lengths? Even if they make a highly reliable tester - once you walk away, the AFCI / GFCI / or DF could fail on its own for any number of reasons and your test proved what exactly?... that they should pay your bill for showing up? So, again, why not just use the button on the front of the breaker itself?

who need true rms? electronics technician?🤔

Excellent video , your passion is very evident 👌👍👍

Very cool, thanks for the insight.

Thompson Sarah Jones Timothy Robinson Steven

Great education videos! very straight forward explanation. Thank you for your time!

Best video on TH-cam explaining the difference between averaging meters and True RMS meters. BY far.

Thanks great video.

How do you get the line +/- (0.24+0.03) You don't explain that so everything that comes afterwards does not make any sense.

So if you combined a 9.7VDC signal with a sinewave of amplitude A=(5.29*1.41) you would still get 11.03V AC+DC right?

You calculated accuracy taking 1% of 24V but 24V is not the value of the reading of either the Fluke or Southwire, why?

Thank you

Thank you for this I didn’t understand why it was doing that and thought my new multimeter was broke

Thank you for that...

very good explanation. Thanks

Could I make my line splitter a 20 amp by taking it apart and winding in a 12 gauge wire and putting it back together?

the same exact thing happened to me that happened to your friend. I was outside fixing to install a WR outlet. I did what I usually do, tested the pen on a known live circuit and I make it a point to always keep fresh batteries in it. I i tested around the 12-2 wire and believe it or not stuck the end of the pen into the end of the wire . thought I was good. go to cut the wire and destroyed my pliers I actually theorized that the fact the romex was wet, could have contributed to it but I was never sure. thanks a lot for showing & explaining thow & why this happens. on a side note, it really makes since because if you think about it; water is notoriously bad for any kind of radio wave, like like weak cell phone signal while driving over a bridge. thanks again brother.

Great demo and explanation.

Thank you for this video.

if plug in regular outlet will it give me voltage reading

Sperry support said bad ground > 10 ohms

Wow, I learned something. We use these in our pool business to check for voltage all the time, had no idea water could block a signal so effectively. Big thumbs up.

I have never encountered wet Romex in 20 years of being an electrician. But I'll keep this in mind if I do!

How do you read thd

Thanks for demystifying :)

AC is generated as a single frequency on the power plants. True RMS are able to pick up those higher frequency harmonis which are part of any non sinusoidal waveforms found on electro/electronic machines and devices.

My (very cheap) multimeter isn't doing exactly the same as yours- it is steadily increasing from the time I turn it on until I turn it off- starting at 0.1 volts and increasing up to several volts. I think the highest it went was about 4.5 volts- no millivolts- before I turned it off, but it was still climbing. No idea why it's doing this. And this is just minutes after it was giving me accurate readings. When it's glitching out like this, it doesn't register any real readings, i.e. I connect the leads to a battery that should be 12 volts, but the reading stays roughly where it is, still just climbing 0.1 volts at a time.

Im curious if you turned on the low pass filter on the amprobe? It has an option you have to manually turn on for LPF, not sure about the other meters

Thanks

Good basic video. A lot of people have not taken calculus and do not understand the conversion of an AC sinewave voltage to an equivalent DC value. The average of a sinewave is zero (has an equal amount of area above and below the abscissa (x-axis) ). However it is still doing work, so the mathematical conversion using the definition of RMS equates it to an equivalent DC value. The average of a sinewave is 0.637 times the peak (taken over only half a cycle). Again, if you took it over a whole cycle it would be zero. The RMS of a sinewave is 0.707 times the peak. These are 2 different results based on mathematical manipulation. The RMS value is used for true power. I would also like to mention that a TRUE ROOT MEAN SQUARE meter should be TRMS AC+DC to include any DC offset for a total value of voltage or current.

I HAVE 2 OF THESE EXIT SIGNS AND THEY WORK GREAT

thanks for all your videos, it is very useful to understand the functions it comes with. thanks.

I'm happy With that information, thanks, I'm appreciate

Extremely well explained. Like that you opened one of the circuit testers to show how it works on the inside.

Useful at detecting if the ground of the equipment is live and with a bad ground, a lot get shocked like that

You are impossible not s teacher fot sure who knows what s min. Max is good by

Excellent info. If the VFDs and inverters are installed wrong or are going bad, the dirty power harmonics can cause all kinds of problems on the line. 😎 Nice scope. ✨

Great video. With all the VFDs and inverters, a high frequency clamp meter is the way to go. Bluetooth is also a great feature for remote monitoring. 😎 Thank you. Nice video.

Bold a skid, I'll be in verter's and mark. Need to know if they're pure sign wave modified sideways or square sideways made up a civil scope today. To do that.

When in continuity mode and both leads connected together, my multimeter reads 750. It should read 0, correct? What do you think the problem is?

Ive come to this video when trying to find out why my multimeter is showing a dc voltage, which gradually grows. and its not mV. It ranges between 1 and 4v

Brilliant video thankyou.

a true RMS meter is essential for old house remodeling. i have had calls before someone says my meter shows 120 volts but my light is not burning. but my RMS meter shows 70 volts which is most commonly a broken neutral.

Would like to see this done with the Santronics NCV tester.

Great demonstration. I appreciate the comparisons.

Done subscribe sir. I want to learn more here. Thanks for sharing this video Sir

Great no nonsense explanation. I appreciate your tutorials and have learned a lot about dune and nonsine wave forms. I appreciate you

Thanks.

Nice vid, thank you very much for explaining. :-)

Can you tell me. I have 1 set of outlets where the ELL is showing a constant 20AMP is shows this when nothing is running and when things are running. The breaker is only 15AMP. I tested this outlet because often times the breaker will trip when we turn something on.