วีดีโอ

The air intake is still behind a panel that prevents any stray rain or water splashing coming in. Although I avoid riding in the rain, I have been caught out and ridden in torrential rain and got home in floodwater. As long as the water line is below the air intake height, I see no reason to believe that there is any way hydro locking could occur. The design of the original part is likely designed to meet cost, emissions and sound testing for the EU standards, otherwise I'm sure they would probably have designed the part in the same way as these aftermarket ones.

Deleting the cat converter increases hp?

I've had no issues with it. When installed correctly I've had no vibration noises or rattling, and riding on gravel its had no holes or dents. It's mild steel I think, and not too thin. Definately offeres the protection as advertised. Better than having a rock crack the brittle cast sump if you do any riding over gravel.

The bar end mirrors I know are a big favourite amongst most owners, but for me I'm just not interested in them. I've done a lot of riding on agricultural, dirt and duel sport bikes and I know how much even mouse ear mirrors break. I think bar ends look cool, but I don't want someone going passed or trying to park near me or knocking over my bike to cost me having to replace bar end mirrors. I do a decent amount of gravel road and track riding on my 350, so too much of a risk. If I had the bike just for suburban and weekend riding, bar ends might be more considered. I have actually designed and manufactured bar end lever protectors instead, which aren't compatible with bar end mirrors, from carbon fiber that I have fitted to my bike, to protect my bars and my custom carbon fiber levers as well. I'm still working on making videos showing off the carbon fiber parts and their installation, but I've been extremely time-poor lately due to work and family obligations. Hopefully soon!

Yes, I have the DNA plate and filter installed. Theres a video on my channel for installation if you're interested.

Yep!

Yes, you can direct fit the classic reborn suspension which doesn’t come with the nitrox canisters but it will be hard for you to find. the other option is you can fit the new classic suspension but have to cut one bolt part of the chain cover.

look at mine th-cam.com/video/jp4nEE8zEnY/w-d-xo.html Diablo adjustable rear shock + michelin pilot street radial

no, we are only removing the rocker cover and are not working below the resting oil level. Though most of the services where I think you do valves, you also do oil. If you do change oil as part of a service, do it before or after valves, but I wouldn't probably do it in the middle, as it is likely easier to rotate the crank and piston assembly to TDC while is has lubrication. Best to just do one job a time too, saves confusion.

Did you purchase an OEM guard or a aftermarket design one? I did see on eBay a few offerings of guards that were basically the same design, but were not the royal enfield OEM guard, and they may have slightly different instructions or dimensions. I did not have to remove any washers, and I had no interference between the guard and the horn

I haven't had to fit a silencer, I find the HNTR stock to be pleasant and not too loud. Though something more compact might be better from a silhouette consideration. It protrudes a decent amount, and I worry about it interfering with something as I go passed. And worst case, if the bike slides it will grind up the exhaust. Sounds like you have a well kitted hunter. I found the DNA kit made my bike a bit more pleasant to go through the gears, as power is not delayed after changing gears and getting back on the throttle. The gearing differs from the classic and meteor, better IMO, so I didn't mess with the sprockets. But if I do more highway time I may consider gearing to lower my highway RPM. 3.5L/100 is by no means bad for highway economy, but relative to 2.8 when going under 80... I wish 5th was a bit more overdrive or it was equipped with a 6th. But then the power perhaps couldn't keep up then. For what it was designed for, seems perfect, and I'm just being greedy haha It was a big toss up for me between the int650 and hntr 350 when I was purchasing. I ended up with the 350 because I figured it could do what I needed, and the extra cash in my pocket would pay for a good amount of petrol. I like your position that the best approach is just to buy both haha, unfortunately that wasn't an option for me at the moment. Once my business is busier, I may be able to afford a second bike. Why do all the reviews point out if the mirrors vibrate?! I just want to know if they are large enough haha

@@MrCombfoot Yes I find that the standard mirror's are fine myself 👍

Glad you got a kick out of it. Still riding the soco or moved to a ICE yet?

@@MrCombfoot ICE. I've got my PDA tomorrow.

@@spittyrides Well best of luck then, I'll keep an eye out for what bike you get

@@MrCombfoot lol... DoT cancelled my PDA and have asked me to reschedule. It looks like they didn't have enough assessors. So back to the queue, I guess.

Ah that's a bummer. Well I guess more time to practice. Were you renting a bike from an instructor? Able to reschedule that without a loss?

Did you check the date?

@@alexd1759 patt's cooked, don't mind him

My helmet is covered in chicken wire and is constantly electrified using a car battery in my backpack. I find this DIY approach discourages the bloodthirsty buggers. I'm glad this video was easy to watch, I'm always having to do handstands to watch most TH-cam content on this bike.

it may be hard to watch in the northern hemisphere

Hey, I have the DNA plate and filter. It does make it a little more pleasant to ride, I found it was just a bit more responsive after changing gears and getting into power. But I haven't noticed any more power than the bike already had as far as getting say 0-100, which seems what people are always interested in! I just wanted the filter for the re-usability mostly. I haven't had issues with my CEAT tyres yet, I'm at 5000km on them of gentle riding. I do check my pressures every week. Though when these tyres are worn I'm looking to change them out for some 80/20 tyres, I'm looking at Shinko 705's, as I do some stretches and exploration on gravel roads. Perhaps with the front shocks it can be dependent on QC from the factory? if the oil or seals are good or not? I haven't found them divey, and I am a hefty bloke! So maybe I lucked out with them, but I have not had any issues mostly riding smooth roads. I would buy some YSS or Hagon shocks but they are a bit pricey for me at the moment, if I get the tyres upgraded and start doing more gravel and offroad I may get them then so they are less likely to heat soak. But that will all be in the future! probably not this year

I'm 172cm, and yes I find it deflects wind off my chest and more up to the top of my helmet. 90, 100 and 110kph it makes the bike more comfortable. I had recorded a video on Saturday and was editing it on Sunday to release before the weekend was over, about using the hunter 350 at higher speeds, touring, fuel consumption, ergonomics and comfort. But unfortunately the files corrupted and I lost it, so I was going to try re-record it in the next few days. So if you are interested in bike comfort at 90+kph, check back in a few days!

@@MrCombfoot Thank brother for the answer..

Mine came pre-oiled. I suspect DNA recomend using their own proprietary cleaner and oil, but I will probably myself just use a locally sourced kit that is probably cheaper and doesn't have shipping. I haven't done the research yet into the best approach, as it is probably a while before th filter will need maintenance. But on that day, ill probably make a video about it.

@@MrCombfoot Great! Many thanks

Good news! I am at my desk right now editing a short video I made today installing bar risers! I have also purchased an action camera and microphone for making some better on-the-road videos, so I can create some videos giving insight of the hunter 350. Be sure to let me know what videos you would like to see coming up, and I should have a bar riser video up in the next 24hrs Sorry for the delay in videos, but I have been hard at work purchasing some manufacturing equipment and developing some things to get stuff going.....

@@MrCombfoot damn brother, glad you're doing well. Looking forward to see what you do to your bike. I'm mostly looking for performance related modifications (air filters, fuel x etc) but please do not do anything just to appease me(or anybody else). Good to see you're doing well after your accident. Stay safe out there.

I searched 'royal enfield sump guard' on eBay Australia, and I think the seller was called 'royal rider' or some such. As for any other costs I couldn't say as they would be dependent on your country. I would suggest searching on eBay and selecting whichever option is cheapest cost + shipping, as a number of sellers sell the same product and have sales and discounts at different times.. The OEM sump guard is usually pictured with it's royal enfield box, but check the description as well. I do not personally sell the part or endorse any particular seller, so make sure to read the reviews!

I believe there may be some small difference in the design; the classic, meteor and bullet use the same plate which is PART No. 93108 Whereas the hunter uses PART No. 93107, which ads a locator hole. I think that may be the only difference, and the rest of the dimensions are the same, but I would purchase the correct part for the particular bike. I don't believe there is a significant price difference.

In the city 2.8L/100km, highway 3.5L/100km

They are slotted on the top of the adjusters, but the frame gets in the way so could either use a very short or very long screwdriver. I just used a blade I had on the work bench.

It will need to be done according to the schedule in the owners manual. Valve clearance checking is a normal service task on most motorcycles.

You might be able to get away with a few more mm of bolt length before having to drill the guard. There isn't much space though. It might take a bit of Jenga to get all the mounting hardware + nuts in. You can loosen the guard off and pull it away, assemble the mounting, then reattach the guard. That could help. I went out and had a quick look, and with this particular luggage rack and the stock grab handles, there is interference between the parts when the grab handles are mounted 'on top'. If mounting 'underneath' will just fit I think, may have to remove a little material from the grab handle tips to fit.

@@MrCombfoot ok thanks 👍

I haven't had any issues charging my Galaxy s10e from the USB output from my device, though I'm using a cable to charge not a wireless charger. I have a go pro mount with anti vibration accessory which is great, but haven't invested in the wireless accessory. Perhaps the wireless set up has too much parasitic draw and cannot reach the digital charging cutoff? Have you tried charging with a cable rather than a wireless pad? Otherwise, if you have the knowledge, voltmeter test the port or use a USB voltage tool to check if it is correctly delivering power. If its a faulty port could get it replaced through your dealer. Otherwise, under the details of the quadlock 12v auto off device it specifies "Use Auto function to keep the device off until input voltage rises above 13.5V and turn off when input voltage drops below 12.5V". The hunter 350 might not kick the surface charge up to 13.5V unless its got some revs behind it, so it may not turn on when your bike is initially turned on or idling, but may turn on when you get the revs up while riding. Depending on the hunter 350s charging system it may not even engage a high charge state until it detects the battery below some arbitrary threshold to avoid overcharge. I haven't delved too deep into he electrical and charging systems of the bike yet (luckily haven't had a need to). But to drain the voltage after riding could take a little while, to remove surface charge and get down to <12.5V. After riding leave your bike with accessories on but not running, and phone charging,g and put a multi meter on the battery terminals and wait until it gets down to 12.5V. If the phone stops charging then it's working. It's a bit of a dubious system though depending on your battery. A lead acid battery would be fine sitting at 12.4V for a little while, but all batteries naturally discharge at varying rates. I wouldn't want to not ride the bike for any longer than a week. It wont 'flatten' your battery, but it will drain it to just above flat. So you will have to ride again sooner or risk no start, particularly in cold weather. Also if you upgrade to an AGM, gel or lithium battery, they like to sit at higher voltages when not in use than standard lead acid, so the quad lock device could be potentially damaging. I will probably be doing some wiring when I convert to LED indicators, though I didn't have any 'additional' accessories planned to wire in to the battery. Page 73 & 74 of the manual detail the fuse box layout, so probably would splice in to the lighting circuit (F6) as that's only on when the bike is running and I assume is 12V. But I'll look in to it in the future if you are still having the issue.

I have heard that rear suspension upgrade is quite common, though I haven't found it too rough yet. I've done a 7 hour day of riding touring around and wasnt too upset about it, but maybe my history of trail bikes and sports bikes makes me happy with anything better than wood suspension haha. I was considering upgrading the rear when I change my tyres. YSS are commonly recommended, but the bravos only come with silver shocks (though you can get black springs) which might stand out a bit on the black hunter frame. Though it may be worth it anyway. Otherwise I have looked in to Hagon rear suspension, can get those delivered to me for a little cheaper than YSS, and they have a blacked out version and increased height option. I wanted to get a bit more travel for doing gravel roads around where my family are. Hagon have been around for a good while and are fairly well respected. In the meantime I can live with the stock suspension, but I might look at an aftermarket seat. After a few hours (more than 3) the stock seat can get a little uncomfortable. Have you upgraded your seat as well?

Thanks! Hopefully its a mild summer and I can get some good rides in, doctors seem confident I should be recovered by Christmas/new year. So still a month away, but I'll be able to work on doing some upgrades until then.

The gasket can definitely be a little tricky. I just go around the edge with a torch and a small blunt tool, like the back of a pen, and just poke it into position with one cover bolt in barely at the end of thread to just locate the valve cover but still allow some motiion. Removing it the whole way, as you have, does require re-applying some liquid gasket around the side cut out where it is applied from factory. But its good you had the knowledge to fix it! I'm not sure why its encouraged to change the gasket on first service, I believe the service kit is sold with it as well. The top end is not under much oil pressure at all, so as long as the gasket is still pliable and the valve cover is being torqued back down correctly each time I wouldn't replace it until it is degraded. It isn't really something that can lead to a catastrophic failure, you should notice an oil leak or smell before it starves of oil. I love the interceptor, It was a coin flip between the hunter and interceptor for me, but I decided until I move out of the city I just couldn't justify the bigger bike. Maybe in a few years I'll get one. And sorry about the youthful music haha, but alas I am somewhat young, and it was music that I had creative rights to use. Unfortunately I don't yet own an action camera with a wind proof microphone, I am just using my phone strapped to my helmet with a $15 amazon mount. The audio is completely blown out with wind noise and you cannot hear the great enfield sound almost at all. I hope maybe in the future I could afford to purchase a GoPro or DJI action camera, then I can get some much better footage and also a better soundtrack!

After making any fueling or flow changes, its good practice to let it Idle for a bit. I suggest 15 minutes, which is on the long end, just to be safe. It gives the ECU time to adapt, and to warm up a bit and continue adapting at not just cold starting. It's also good to give you time to check over and see if you have left any bolts undone, or forgot to remove some packaging or plastic. Start the bike, let it idle, give it a visual check over, put away your tools and it should be good to go.

Hey, no this rack does not come with a mounting plate. This rack is sold basically as a tie down rack, which is how I use it, I have used ratchet straps to die down toolboxes, small fuel cans and a milk crate for going shopping. However I was designing a bracket to convert it to hold a top box, but my riding/videos have been put on hold for a while after I snapped my wrist in a workplace accident. When I have recovered, around Christmas, I plan to continue making some custom parts for the bike.

It depends on where you are and how you can get it. I had to get mine from DNA directly and ship from Europe to Australia, so it was not cheap ( about 200AUD). However If you live in Britain I know there are local distributors who offer it cheaper like TEC, and may be that other countries also have local distributors. I would suggest to just google 'DNA 350 air filter stage 2 kit <your local country>' or 'DNA air filter and high flow plate' and seeing what options are available. The kit is not very competitively priced, particularly the plate for what it is, so hopefully some competitors start producing similar kits.

it is an unbranded rack, ordered on eBay. 'Hunter 350 Luggage rack' brings up a number of sellers all selling the exact same item. Unlike my other parts I've put on the bike, royal enfield does not make an OEM luggage rack, so this rack is just a cheap rack of moderate quality.