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How do i get them

Are you interested my dad has 4 tractor's like this for sale 🎉

Why do you put the rear wheels on backwards?

Great job man. Sounds like your timing is off, im sure by now youve figured it out since this video is 3 months old. Congrats!

Check timing.

this guy just thinks he’s a mechanic not

Your timing is off. Perhaps your plug wires are on wrong.

if you say #1 is nearest the steering then you''re just backwards!

One word: carburetor. I can tell you it’s not getting enough gas or you’re not choking it enough. Screw your main needle in the front all the way till it seats, then back it out to full turns. Your idle mixture on the side, screw it all the way in, then Back it out one full turn. If it’s still isn’t wanting to start either, you’re not getting gasoline into the bowl because the float is closing the needle valve too fast or the needle valve is stuck, so if you have to pull it off, make sure that your needle is going up and down good not sticking then make sure that there’s 1/4 inch between the top of the float and the bottom of the top gasket. Mine acted like that and I had my float set wrong. The carburetors are really picky, but once you get them set right, it’ll run like a top. PS make sure you turn the fuel off at the tank and run the carburetor out of gas if you’re gonna leave it for a while .

Condensor casing must be grounded. Theres your problem. Funny just wondering if you forgot to turn the ON key on dash. Or keyseitch is bad

I think I would have put that truck bed liner on the steps or running boards

Is that safe for accuriam pls told us. My accuriam s tank had also a woodwarm and when the woodwarm came to my accuriam my fish died one by one.

SOUNDS LIKE TIMING WRONG

Great project, a lot time in that one. Took a second to pop off there. Everything sounds healthy. Looking forward to seeing the for sale video

It does take some fiddling to get the carb set on those. Sometimes the aftermarket carb. parts are not as good. Struggled with that issue with my mom's 1950 8N. It's looking nice. I grew up with those tractors. Stay safe, and God bless.

that guy is an idiot

Video quality is older than the tractor (360p). Good thing the content is decent quality

I finally got a chance to watch! That turned out nice. You may want to consider waiting to do the paint until your son gets old enough to help. A full restoration would be a great project you could do together. Keep it in the family and pass on more memories to the next generation. God bless.

LOVE the video! GREAT title! Keep em coming!!!

That turned out great! Old iron will be around many more years. That blue electrical splice at the switch needs cut out - probably fix that problem.

Waiting on part 2 i have an 8n that's been in my family since it was new in 49 it say for 20 years after my grandpa past and i got it running a few weeks ago still fighting it

great idea man, i have the same issues in my tank...i have to preoccupy my cleaner shrimp with his own big ass piece of shrimp

The info. I found shows it as 1940's. Things are really looking good. You'll never run out of things to do. Have a safe and happy 4th. God bless.

Amazing progress! Place is incredible

Things are really looking nice and coming along. Some interesting artifacts. Thanks for the update. God bless.

I really want one. And have been watching videos... one thing I picked up was there's a lockout one the starter button on the floor. ? But loved the video.

Your number 1 cylinder is on the front of the engine

I really appreciate your effort and desire to make that puppy run. As a very old and experienced mechanic I would like to make a couple of suggestions that I sincerely hope you will take as just that and not take it as criticism. I was you once about 60 years ago working on Model A Fords. Three fundamentals: 1.) Documentation (some sort of manual, internet, ...) 2.) Tools, 3.) Diagnosis (Problem Statement or hypothesis). All of this is with the fundamental understanding that it only takes three things for an internal combustion engine to run: 1.) Some (enough) compression on a few cylinders but not all, 2.) Spark at about the right time, 3.) Combustable fuel. If it isn't running, figure out which of the three is missing and stick with that ONE thing until you can confirm you have fixed it or know you have it before switching to something else. It is unusual to have more than one of the fundamentals missing even on something that has been sitting so develop a theory (Problem Statement, hypothesis, ....) and test until you can prove or disprove what you think and know it is working/you have it before going on to the next one of the three fundamentals. (Don't pull a cylinder head before you have diagnosed and resolved "No Spark".) In your future projects first get some documentation before you start (internet) for things like - Firing order, spark plug type and gap, and of course like you did, points gap or dwell angle. Like you did and so many do today: Use Starting Fluid (with top end lubricant in it) to take the place of "Combustable Fuel" to eliminate that as the reason for not running. If it starts on starting fluid, you know you have enough compression and spark at about the right time. If no start with starting fluid you know you DON'T have Spark at about the right time or DON't have enough compression so pick one of those two to prove or disprove and fix. Tools: You generation has the Internet, use it. You must have: 1.) a Test Light or better a digital volt ohm meter that you can use the internet to learn how to use correctly (for example: "How to test an ignition coil while still on the vehicle with a volt ohm meter"), but better to have both and school yourself how to use them, 2.) A "Lone Wolf Six Thousand" (a remote starter switch/button) as you will use this a million times and is a must-have tool), 3.) A compression testing KIT so you can test for enough compression with things still completely assembled, 4.) a good quality timing light (the new ones with advance settings are fantastic). With those very few basic diagnostic tools and a full understanding of the three things and engine must have to run, you can get anything to run and do so very quickly. If you don't have a feeler gauge, single thickness of most matchbooks or cardboard box that points sets, rotors, caps, ... come in are around 0.015" and will get you in the ballpark on the side of the road to get "Spark at about the right time". With experience, you can eye-ball them as well. Good luck. I look forward to watching your revivals and seeing your TH-cam channel grow!

I really enjoyed your video I can't imagine how frustrating you must have found it at times. I think you showed an honest attempt at getting a tractor running. Very good you didn't hide anything and showed your struggles in the video showed your struggles in the video. Keep up the good work keep moving forward

From what I could see about you doing all your guest work. You need to buy a shop manual, it will have a wealth of information that you need.

that is my pet ❤

At times,the best solution is to tear down the entire engine and start fresh with a predictable rebuilt engine, a transmission and hydraulics as well. Once all is done, you’ll just about have a great almost new Tractor. After that, why not paint it as a pass for an almost new tractor. Otherwise, the wear,the past damages created by the previous Owner(s) will be your headache.

the tractor is posative ground

its a 51 or 52

My God are you green? Get the electrical sorted before you start. Using those alligator pliers on starter motor is asking for trouble! All other 8n videos I have seen no 1 is at the front? If rotor is pointing at no1 cylinder. Did you tube or watch anyone else?

When you clean a gas tank put pebbles or nuts and bolts in the tank and shake it they help dislodge the the junk in the tank

Those tractors are ground side switched.

If that was the compression that you showed thats rilly low you want at the least 90 psi to get it to start up. you really want to have for great compression 120 psi being you are taking off the head you what to look at the valves to see if they are opening and closing all the way if not that will give you low compression and look for cracks on the head and the engine. What i can see in the low lighting i don't see much but yes you do need to do a velve job so that way your velves are selling good so hopefully the compression will go up to round 90 psi. You should look on the tractor for the Model number so you can look up firing order and the head torque specs are you may want it get a carburetor kit and carb cleaner

Thanks for the info, good job!

37:59 number 1 cylinder is the one closest to the radiator and number 4 cylinder is closest to the seat.

My grandpa used to own a gas and tvo in Ireland and it never stop working

are you by any chance a jellyfish breeder😮

Did you use a ultrasonic device before you used the cem dip?

Dad lived his entire life on a farm (95 yrs). He made this comment. In 1949 you could buy an 8 N ford for $900. , or you could buy a B John Deere for $1100. And have twice the tractor. On your multimeter you should have ohms section. Check the continuity of the wires!

I could see the fuel pouring out of the carb. Fix the carb. Rebuild the carb. It will run with that compression. Clean off the valve seats and send it.

This summer I will be going through a similar scenario in trying to get my "used to be yard art" 1947 8N running. Fortunately I will have the help of two mechanic friends, they take no prisoners and never give up!

Those are great workhorse tractors. Parts are still plentiful. Good luck and have fun with it.. God bless.