- 39
- 191 497
OnTheCrux
United Kingdom
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 8 มี.ค. 2011
Not your average boulderer, at five foot tall and over fifty! I'd like to show what an amazingly varied and inclusive sport bouldering is, and that bouldering is for everyone!
How I noticeably improved my V3 climbing in 30 days || Bouldering When Older (and Shorter!)
Huge thanks to Chris Mitchell for giving me so much help and advice for these blocs. Also thanks to everyone who gave me beta and agreed to let me film them including Jules Astier, Julia Baines, Payal Haria, Mahir Mahtani, Louis Parkinson, and Shati Patel!
Chris Mitchell: www.youtube.com/@crimpychris#bottomsheet
Camera Operator: Nick Martin
Filmed at Harrowall
onthecrux
www.tiktok.com/@onthecrux
mrsmmartin
www.threads.net/@onthecrux
Chapters:
00:00 Intro
00:27 The Setup
02:28 Meeting Chris
02:43 V3 Red Dual Tex Mantle
05:13 V3 Black Overhang Learning to toe hook
07:17 V3 Bubblegum large hold with arete
10:42 V3 Orange Dynamic Swing
11:21 V3 Bubblegum Moving past the pinch
13:44 V3 Blue - How to handle the slopers
17:45 Projecting V3 Orange Dynamic Swing
18:48 Projecting V3 Red Mantle
19:32 Projecting V3 Green Volumes
20:54 Projecting V3 Black Overhang
21:18 Projecting V3 Bubblegum large hold with arete
22:43 Projecting V3 Bubblegum Pinches and Slopers
24:30 Projecting V3 Technical Red
26:06 Projecting V3 Green Launch
27:08 How and why my climbing improved
Chris Mitchell: www.youtube.com/@crimpychris#bottomsheet
Camera Operator: Nick Martin
Filmed at Harrowall
onthecrux
www.tiktok.com/@onthecrux
mrsmmartin
www.threads.net/@onthecrux
Chapters:
00:00 Intro
00:27 The Setup
02:28 Meeting Chris
02:43 V3 Red Dual Tex Mantle
05:13 V3 Black Overhang Learning to toe hook
07:17 V3 Bubblegum large hold with arete
10:42 V3 Orange Dynamic Swing
11:21 V3 Bubblegum Moving past the pinch
13:44 V3 Blue - How to handle the slopers
17:45 Projecting V3 Orange Dynamic Swing
18:48 Projecting V3 Red Mantle
19:32 Projecting V3 Green Volumes
20:54 Projecting V3 Black Overhang
21:18 Projecting V3 Bubblegum large hold with arete
22:43 Projecting V3 Bubblegum Pinches and Slopers
24:30 Projecting V3 Technical Red
26:06 Projecting V3 Green Launch
27:08 How and why my climbing improved
มุมมอง: 2 476
วีดีโอ
Nervous of Dynos? Jules Astier Teaches Me The First Steps! || Bouldering When Older and Shorter!
มุมมอง 1.6K3 หลายเดือนก่อน
I cannot overstate how good Jules Astier was at helping me understand the basics of dynamic movement. If you'd like to have a coaching session from him yourself, head to his Instagram page and send him a DM! Jules Astier: jules_ast Camera Operator: Nick Martin Filmed at Harrowall onthecrux www.tiktok.com/@onthecrux mrsmmartin www.threads.net/@onthecrux Ch...
Can You Start Competing In Your 70's? || Fossil Fest 2024 || Bouldering When Older
มุมมอง 3K5 หลายเดือนก่อน
A huge thanks to Dominic Sutcliffe and everyone at Rock On for organising this awesome event, and to Mile End Climbing Wall for hosting it! Also thanks to featured climbers Matt Clarke, Martin Cooper, Steve Gorton, Katie Krupicz, Nick Lees, Jun Minohara, John Robson, Clair Slim and David Sullivan. Camera Operator: Nick Martin onthecrux www.tiktok.com/@onthecrux mrsmmar...
Is V3 The Best Grade? || Moving from Beginner to Intermediate ||Bouldering When Older (and Shorter!)
มุมมอง 4.4K6 หลายเดือนก่อน
If you’re starting to break into V3’s then there should be some tips and tricks that might help you here. I worked through six interesting and different V3 blocs garnering some insight from routesetter and coach Chris Mitchell. Chris Mitchell: www.youtube.com/@crimpychris#bottomsheet Camera Operator: Nick Martin Filmed at Harrowall onthecrux www.tiktok.com/@onthecrux m...
I Try To Climb A Competition Bloc || All Female Route Setting || Bouldering When Older
มุมมอง 8248 หลายเดือนก่อน
I had so much fun filming this. Not only did I get to ask Imi many questions that I was curious about, but I also got to try a scary shiny competition bloc with her expert guidance as the route setter! Chapters: 00:00 We Talk 10:37 We Climb Imi Bagnall-Smith: imiclimbing Camera Operator: Nick Martin Filmed at Harrowall onthecrux www.tiktok.com/@onthecrux twitter.com...
How Short Is Too Short To Boulder? || Bouldering when Older (And Shorter!)
มุมมอง 1.1K8 หลายเดือนก่อน
I loved this fun bloc as soon as I saw it, as it climbed so differently for people of different heights! Many thanks to Hannah and her dad, Carl! Hannah (parent run account) hurricane_hanhan Camera Ops: Nick Martin, Carl and Payal. Filmed at Harrowall onthecrux www.tiktok.com/@onthecrux mrsmmartin www.threads.net/@onthecrux
V3 Climber Projects a V5 with the Routesetter || Bouldering When Older
มุมมอง 8K9 หลายเดือนก่อน
I wondered if getting Beta advice straight from the routesetter would help me get further on this v5, which at first seemed like an impossible bloc for my level! Chris Mitchell: www.youtube.com/@crimpychris#bottomsheet Camera Operator: Nick Martin Filmed at Harrowall onthecrux www.tiktok.com/@onthecrux mrsmmartin www.threads.net/@onthecrux
What's Going Through A Route Setter's Mind When They Set A Bloc?
มุมมอง 1.6K9 หลายเดือนก่อน
Climbing a bloc with the person that set it made me realise I had some questions! Chris Mitchell: www.youtube.com/@crimpychris#bottomsheet Camera Operator: Nick Martin Filmed at Harrowall Thanks to Josh McEvoy for the campussing shot! onthecrux www.tiktok.com/@onthecrux mrsmmartin www.threads.net/@onthecrux
Bouldering When Older: Let's Talk About Fear!
มุมมอง 2.2K10 หลายเดือนก่อน
Fear is an integral part of climbing, but knowing when to listen to your fears and when to push past them is a skill in itself. Thanks to Chris Mitchell for the coaching! Chris Mitchell: www.youtube.com/@crimpychris#bottomsheet Camera Operator: Nick Martin Filmed at Harrowall onthecrux www.tiktok.com/@onthecrux mrsmmartin www.threads.net/@onthecrux Music Credits "Chill...
Bouldering When Older: Using Technique Over Strength
มุมมอง 4.7K10 หลายเดือนก่อน
People often think that they need to be strong to climb, but it's often more about technique. Apologies for the sound issues, I've already bought a new mic for the next video! Thanks to Chris Mitchell for all the useful nuggets of advice. Chris Mitchell: www.youtube.com/@crimpychris#bottomsheet Camera Operator: Nick Martin Filmed at Harrowall onthecrux www.tiktok.com/@onthecrux ww...
Brown Hart Gardens: Where Quarrelling Is Forbidden By Law
มุมมอง 2332 ปีที่แล้ว
Brown Hart Gardens: Where Quarrelling Is Forbidden By Law
10 Cool Things To See On A New English £5 Note
มุมมอง 1602 ปีที่แล้ว
10 Cool Things To See On A New English £5 Note
Counting Sheep When You Can't Sleep. Cbeebies Songs (2003)
มุมมอง 6K6 ปีที่แล้ว
Counting Sheep When You Can't Sleep. Cbeebies Songs (2003)
Frozen Fish Fingers || Cbeebies Songs (2003)
มุมมอง 7K6 ปีที่แล้ว
Frozen Fish Fingers || Cbeebies Songs (2003)
Cute Cbeebies Bonus Bunny footage - Bracken Preening! Cbeebies (2003)
มุมมอง 1.2K6 ปีที่แล้ว
Cute Cbeebies Bonus Bunny footage - Bracken Preening! Cbeebies (2003)
Building An Igloo. Cbeebies Songs (2003)
มุมมอง 8K6 ปีที่แล้ว
Building An Igloo. Cbeebies Songs (2003)
Can You See The Snow? Cbeebies Songs (2003)
มุมมอง 3.5K6 ปีที่แล้ว
Can You See The Snow? Cbeebies Songs (2003)
The Bunny Hop feat. Beebie The Bunny. Cbeebies Songs (2003)
มุมมอง 7K6 ปีที่แล้ว
The Bunny Hop feat. Beebie The Bunny. Cbeebies Songs (2003)
Beebie The Bunny's First Birthday. Cbeebies Songs (2003)
มุมมอง 12K6 ปีที่แล้ว
Beebie The Bunny's First Birthday. Cbeebies Songs (2003)
Have A Merry Cbeebies Christmas. Cbeebies Songs (2003)
มุมมอง 4.7K6 ปีที่แล้ว
Have A Merry Cbeebies Christmas. Cbeebies Songs (2003)
Have you Ever Heard Birdsong? Cbeebies Songs (2003)
มุมมอง 4.8K6 ปีที่แล้ว
Have you Ever Heard Birdsong? Cbeebies Songs (2003)
MPD Series Highlights 5.4 low res version
มุมมอง 3911 ปีที่แล้ว
MPD Series Highlights 5.4 low res version
Rugby Union Internationals Roundup 2005 Ireland v England + South Africa v Wales
มุมมอง 1.1K12 ปีที่แล้ว
Rugby Union Internationals Roundup 2005 Ireland v England South Africa v Wales
Soul Surfer Bethany Hamilton teaches Blue Peter's Gethin Jones to surf (2005)
มุมมอง 80K12 ปีที่แล้ว
Soul Surfer Bethany Hamilton teaches Blue Peter's Gethin Jones to surf (2005)
It’s just like crazy how the battery swollens up
I am absolutely going to show this video to my gym in Boston. Love it! 50+ and stoked to compete!
That’s fantastic, and good to hear! 🙏
V3 🩵
Such a great video. And I highly agree it is awesome to climb with people closer to your age. I'm happy to say my own gym had a "Masters" category for 50 and over, but sadly not any for 40s which could have been very nice to meet those around my age. But still super encouraging that this recognition of older climbers is catching on within the climbing community.
that was heroic, good job!
Thanks 🙏!
I am so happy I have come across your channel! I have been trawling the internet to find a relatable climber of a similar height. Thank you for sharing your progress and thought process in helping you achieve your goals.
Thank you so much 🙏! It’s so great finding other climbers our own height, they understand our challenges!
Really nice last go! I would like to have a route setter holding my hand on my gym's comp climbs.
Your videos are such a delight and so applicable to the older climber. I too have been moving into grades that I know I'm unlikely to finish and I learn a tremendous amount from these attempts.
How much fun is this?? I've never seen a competition like this in my area of the US. I love your mission with your TH-cam channel, and it is wonderful to see examples of other older climbers in the V3 range who are just as passionate about climbing as I am.
Thank you, that’s very kind. One of the nice things about making these videos is connecting with so many other older climbers 🙂
I've been working on my dynamic movement myself because I've been such a static climber. I started watching Louis Parkinson and ROAP Climbing (with Alex Puccio), champions of dynamic climbing, and have tried to incorporate more dynamic climbing and the use of momentum. The closed-eye drill looks terrifying but I may see if my daughter will try it with me. I definitely need to work on the sequencing, swing, and GLUTES!
I loved this video so much. This is something I think about a lot. A few months back I set myself the challenge of completing the V0-V2 circuit in my gym and while I didn’t quite complete it, I definitely learned and gained a lot from focusing on climbs I generally avoid. Recently I caught myself avoiding a handful of low grade boulders well within my ability, so I wen5 back to work on those.
Yeah, I’ve just checked and there are still a few v2’s that I’ve been avoiding. I had the excuse recently of focussing on the v3’s for this project but I really should go back to face them now 🫣
Do it….maybe there is learning there for another video….
This project was very inspiring! I loved how you were able to pinpoint some of your strength, technique, and mental weaknesses through this process. I'm going to try this in my gym. 👍I'm an older climber with a knee injury so I'm trying to work out how to deal with scary sections of routes that are higher up on the wall.
Thanks and good luck with it yourself! I don’t like taking risks at the top of the wall, if I can practice a similar move lower down I’m much happier.
@@OnTheCrux Same! I'm actively working on cruxy moves low on the wall and climbing-specific training so things that were scary high up slowly become easy. I suspect I won't ever want to do high-risk moves high on the wall, but I'm hoping that training will eventually turn them into to low-risk moves. It's also just fabulous to see how other older climbers approach bouldering.
It's not painful to watch; it's a complex thing to do, and as soon as it makes "click," you learn so much for your future. You did such a nice job, and Jules is also a great teacher.
Thank you 🙏 , and yes he was brilliant!
We're of similar heights and climb at Harrowall as well - this is so inspiring, thank you!
Thanks! There’s a growing number of us around that height there!
Really nice video. Good projecting analysis and honest self-assessment without being too hard on yourself or feeling like you were making any excuses. Really great to see progress with subtle adjustments to get over technique hurdles and stubborn persistence to get past fear blocks. Your rock-overs in particular I thought looked really good btw. Congratulations on the improvement! Great work!
😊 Thanks!
thank you for this! I also climb on this level and I could see myself in several moments hahaha it gave me inspiration to challenge myself more when I'm projecting!
Ah thanks! And it’s nice to hear it’s not just me 😅, good luck with it!
Terrific video and mindset video. You're doing great. I've been feeling down myself recently and have been looking at my climbing in a similar fashion. Well done for the mindset change, and loved the video, content, edit, voice over. Fantastic work!
That’s very kind of you to say 🙏. I hope you manage to work through it and get that mindset change for yourself.
Thank you. I stand 150cm tall (or short for that matter), and I always stay away from dyno lol. Lately, I'm having an urge to work on it and stumbled upon this video which gave me a lot of insights! Keep them coming!!
Thanks a lot, I’m glad it helped! I found a lot of the ideas were useful for doing a single move on what’s an otherwise static climb, just to get a little extra oomph as a short person!
Love watching your vids!
Cheers!
Nice vid its great to see people push themselves. I would say its perfect advice for the beginer to early intermediate which most people realistically are climbing at . I would say as you get better what you train and work on becomes more of an opportunity cost. Especially for those of us who work full time and are not getting any younger. For me im terrible at parkour style bouldering but training it would be a waste for me as its not inline with my goals of climbing better outdoors and on the board. As long as your honest with yourself and your training reflects your goals you will see progress imo.
I totally get that, and agree about higher levels. It’s kinda the point of why I started out trying to do this - to give me an idea of what to focus my efforts on. At higher grades I imagine it would that much longer to progress a single small skill, so it’s even more important to pick the right ones to focus on. Thank you! 🙏
@OnTheCrux yeah definitely you want to build a solid base to your pyramid which it looks like you are doing !
This was an amazing video! I really appreciate your scientific approach to improving your skills.
Thanks 🙏! I love everything science or maths/physics related, hence why bouldering appeals so much 🙂
Great climbing, I'd consider the bolt hole one a send.
Thanks🙏
It's actually a send, i tink bolt holes usage is not against gym bouldering rules
LETS GOOO YOU'RE AMAZINGG. Thank you for your perspective!
Thank you!☺️
Wow! Tremendous efforts that you put into the V3 project! Your efforts are rewarded! Thank you for excellent feedback.
Thank you, and also for all your help!
Great video! Thanks! It really motivates and inspires me. I got stuck recently that I was not able to improve for a long period and I lost my mindset. Really as what you showed, I should restart thinking HOW I can do those boulders
💯! Even working just one move and achieving it feels great, especially if you then can repeat that move to send a different bloc
Nice progression.
Thanks!
This is such a cool video. You can see the amount of times you say you can't do something and then straight away do it afterwards! So much of climbing is mental
Thanks 🙏 ! I totally agree about the mental side of it. It was hard for me to watch those bits and even harder to resist the temptation to edit them all out!
@@OnTheCrux I am glad you did. It was very relatable and definitely something I will think about next time I got to the wall
I'd totally count the bold hole send! AWESOME climb
Thank you 🙏!
I absolutely love your videos 🧡 as a relatively new climber struggling to get into the v3s I find your videos so insightful, thanks for sharing! Also you should entirely count the bolt hole send, everyone else could use the final hold!
Thank you so much, that’s really kind! It’s weird, I sort of count it as a send in a ‘if I was an average height human I would totally have got that’ way. On the other hand as a 51 year old, it’s dawning on me that I’m never going to get any taller and so I need to start working out ways round this problem. There are plenty of short climbers that manage it so it is possible!
this video was so insightful!! really cool to see you making great progress on climbs you previously deemed impossible.
Thanks so much!
Appreciate this vid! Analyses like these are always the way to progress forward - best of luck!!!
Thanks! Yes, it takes extra time but it’s worth it
Really great video, such an interesting style of video. I will try and do something similar with my climbing going forward now
Ah thanks a lot that’s very kind. Let me know how you get on if you try it. It was interesting to do, I hope it will be for you too.
I tried that orange swing round the upright toblerone volume about 50 times, never got it.
It’s weird how it can suddenly go after so many attempts. I don’t know how many goes I had but it must be over 50. The first time I got it I didn’t manage to film it so it took another 10ish goes to get it again for this video (and even then I chopped the top off the GoPro clip😅)
Great video. Really good to see someone climbing at a similar grade to myself. Really helpful. Thanks
Thanks, that means a lot 😊
Great video. Enjoyed watching it😀
Thank you so much 😊
Great to see another upload! Awesome work on these climbs
Thank you!🙏
Grades are of course subjective and variable depending on the setter and your own skill set, but the very fact they can vary by a grade or two is what I was counting on here. If I can do 50-75% of the v3’s I know I’ll be able to pick off some easy v4’s, but this experiment was about improvement rather than grade chasing. This project ended up being a lot more involved than I was expecting, with hundreds of clips taking up 670Gb of space on my hard drive, and taking a couple of months to work out how to piece it all together! As always, if you enjoyed this video please consider subscribing to my Channel. A like or comment or share goes a long way in helping this video get seen :)
I am 42 and just started last year. I am so inspired by this event, thanks for sharing!
Thanks, I would love to see more events like this being run!
A primeira vez que eu tomei conhecimento dessa moça, dessa surfista, foi há muito anos atrás, não me Recordo a data, nem o ano foi em uma Reportagem na Revista ( Veja )* me lembro como se fosse hoje, éla na foto na Revista éla em cima da prancha surfando com apenas um dos braços o outro amputado inesquecível , Revista (Veja ) Bethany Hamilton, não me esqueço até hoje. Superação !👍
V12. Because it will always remind me I will never get there.
The highest grade I’ve seen in an indoor gym is v11 so I guess we’ll have to settle with that ;)
Share this comment if you watched Cbeebies as a kid and remember Beebie and Bracken.
What a lovely interview! And what lovely attitudes! I'm male but I'm short and 57 and a newbie, so I completely get where you're coming from, on the joys of low-to-mid-range routes, the inclusivity, the reasons for doing it! Such a refreshing video.
Your Channel is so underrated for beginners and provide sort of free coaching for people up to this stage, thanks
I love this, what a great idea! I started climbing a year ago at the age of 60 (after a lifetime of doing very little fitness-related activity). My improvement is slow, but it's happening. I lack confidence in bouldering, as my two local gyms don't have down-climbing holds or top-outs. At my age I'm quite scared of falling from the top (I broke a hip 5 years ago - not climbing - and I don't want to do it again!), so I often bottle the top hold in favour of having enough energy to climb down the way I came. I'm really impressed that the setters have given thought to this in a comp for older climbers. I'm making much better progress with top-rope climbing (not worried about falling!). Maybe if I build some more confidence on boulders I could enter this the next time it happens! (I love that they consider it an event, like a public marathon, doing it for yourself rather than to win). Thanks for highlighting that such a thing exists, and well done to the organisers!
Thanks for the lovely message 😊. I agree that down climbs are so important. My local gyms all put easy climbs next to the hard ones, or specific down climb jugs if they have them. It’s so important for accessibility not just for us but for the paraclimbers and the many amazing younger climbers I know with pins in their legs and knee issues etc
@@OnTheCrux My trouble is that I'm already doing the easy climb to get up there! I know I'm allowed to use any hold to get down, but that generally means I'm climbing down via the same easier holds I used to go up 🙁. I hate down-climbing, it scares me more than going up, making me nervous about trying hard for the top hold as it's further to climb down / fall. Some dedicated down-climb jugs would be great just for confidence to try harder. They don't use V grades at my usual gym, they use the font scale, the same as their rope climbs. I'm doing 3s and 4s on boulders (3 has become pretty easy to be fair, more for warm-up); I think that's still V0. I can do 4+ and I'm just starting to do some 5s on the ropes (V1 maybe?). I've heard visitors say that our climbs are graded on the hard side compared to other gyms, so maybe I'm not totally rubbish! Really good point about accessibility for paraclimbers and those who are just a bit more fragile. We often hear it said that climbing is for anyone, but that's easy to say for athletic young TH-camrs 😄
Viewing figures don’t do justice to the coaching sessions in your videos. I’m watching this but also feeling it. A lot of editing and falling off to achieve this. Absolutely brilliant.
😊 That’s so kind, thank you! I wish I knew how to get my viewing figures up!
You deserve a Nobel Prize for this video. I'm not sure which one and it might not matter too much, whether it is Peace, Medicine or Physics. I have a sketchy right shoulder but am working on getting some dynamic movement back into my climbing. This is very helpful.
I wouldn’t deserve it, but that’s such a kind comment! Sketchy shoulders are the worst, mine lasted for years and stopped me doing certain things. Seeing a sports physio and religiously doing what they said, followed months later by a sports massage on that area finally knocked mine on the head. Best of luck with yours!
@@OnTheCrux finally ignoring the physios who told me I can never lift heavy weights again enabled me to get more muscle around my shoulders and they are much more stable. So a certain amount of dynamic movement is OK again. But of course you deserve a Nobel Prize!
@@OnTheCrux I would love to hear more about what you did to fix your shoulder. That's another great topic for the older climber!
Excellent video. Loved it :)
Thanks Andrew!
This is a great video! I have been climbing for a year and like dynos but I still learnt loads! :) Thanks
Thanks a lot 🙏, Jules was full of great tips!
A great video with lots of tips. I look forward to practicing them!
Ah thank you 🙏! The black slab should be up for a while, I’m happy to help if you need more tips on anything!
Am quite static myself so I'm very excited to watch this 40 minute banger!!
To set expectations, I’m not exactly a natural at this 😅 but every mistake of mine leads to so much good advice!