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Any help would be appreciated!

@@SMAutoRepairLLC Your video help me solve my problem. Take big love and make more video.

@@successstudy451 thank you

@@newfie-dean5803 I would check the mating surface of the pump specifically where it seals against the engine and camshaft. it’s possible the pump itself is leaking under certain situations causing an issue within the pcv system form the way this pump is mounted and designed. Do you get the same reaction if you remove your oil cap while the engine is idling? These aren’t the same as far as engine vacuum supplying the booster, so if you remove that hose a vacuum leak to the engine should not be present since it’s the pump driven by the cam shaft that creates the vacuum.

@@SMAutoRepairLLC I looked around the pump and I don’t see any leaks in terms of oil like I have seen other people have. Yes, I removed the oil cap a couple of months ago while the engine was running and the same sort of thing happened so I quickly put it back on thinking I could harm it! This car is a mystery to me because what I have noticed through monitoring live data with a BlueDriver scan tool is that my air intake temperature sometimes climbs into the 40-55 C range with the ambient temperature in the high 20s. The coolant temperature is normal at around 85C. The cooling fans are always running as I have AC or defrost on. If I open the hood, everything is hot to the touch but the coolant is fine. The engine bay should not be getting so hot. Other times I drive it and the air intake temperature will be in the 20s and then when I pop the hood everything feels pretty cool to the touch. The issue is when the air intake temperature gets high it is causing the car to act up and lose power. If I’m stopped at a light and I go, the car will hesitate and buck and sometimes even flicker the red oil engine light. From what I have read higher engine bay temps would make a vacuum leak worst, so I’m thinking that’s what could be going on. This is the worst Ford I have ever owned. It’s not even paid off yet and it has under 75,000 miles and having this kind of problem concerns me and makes me wonder how many more problems this car will have. And it’s a nightmare to work on! I was thinking I could have a thermostat issue but not sure as there is never any effect on the heat or AC. Also this car has the radiator grill shutters so maybe those are not opening when they should be but to my knowledge they are supposed to stay closed in city driving which is a stupid design on hot days.

@@newfie-dean5803 alright so let’s try to go back to the basics and find a diagnostic strategy to help you figure out this problem! When it does begin to act up do you ever set any codes? If a vacuum leak is what your concerned of look at your short and long term fuel trims on your scan tool. Perfect trims will be near 0% a variance of 15% or less is acceptable that will help you determine if you actually have a lean or rich condition. Myself I would be more concerned with the oil light coming on. The VVT system consists of phaser and solenoid and are oil pressure controlled this advances or retards the cam phasers in accordance to the computers command. This will definitely cause engine performance issues if they do not agree or cams can not phase. If the issue mostly presents its self more when the oil pressure light comes on that would be my first and biggest concern determine if oil pressure loss is present and why.

@@SMAutoRepairLLC it only set a code one time and it was for both camshaft position sensors and those never came back even though it happened many times since. It does not set the red oil light on permanently, it simply flickers on and off quickly. Since this problem initially happened I have checked for powertrain codes many times and one that pops up often is P06A7 which is low reference voltage for circuit B. I have seen as many as 14 codes at one time. Then run the scan an hour later and have 7 codes, then later 3 codes, then 0 codes. I think it’s all electrical, perhaps caused by the alternator or the battery monitoring system sensor or even the ECU. I read that on this escape with smart charging the voltage can vary from 12.2 to 15.2. I have been monitoring control module voltage for 3 months now and the car is often showing around 13.5 but sometimes lower and when you let off the gas and coast it goes to about 14.6 which I read is normal, part of regenerative charging. What’s weird is I drove my parents’ 2020 escape with the 2.0 also and its voltage is consistently above 14V. Not sure if it’s a different system being the redesigned model. On my escape I removed the air filter box and removed the grounds under that and sanded some paint off. I also did the same for where the negative battery terminal connects to the strut tower. I also tested all the mega fuses in the battery junction box directly in front of the battery. There’s one fuse in there known to crack and cause issues. Mine seemed good but I changed it anyways. I need to bring the car to the dealer. I will never figure it out otherwise. The only thing I have not done is trace where the grounds under the air box attach on the engine. My parent’ 2020 escape had a no start and the dealer had to change out some ground under the car. I don’t see any ground under this car that goes to the chassis. The only ones I see are the 2 under the air box. Not sure if there’s some other important ground that I’m missing somewhere. These new cars are terrible to work on.

@newfie-dean5803 the cam codes would be typical to have after low oil pressure being displayed because of the VVT system. It could be an electrical issue, seeing the issues your having taking it to a shop would probably be your best bet. Hopefully you can get it figured out!!

@@marcushinton772 😂

@@mqsack awesome thanks for reaching out and the positive feedback!!!

It can be absolutely,

@@rosalimones4622 that is very common for this issue to occur directly after an abs event or hard stop!!! I would have the HCU valves tested for operation. Check your brake fluid level make sure it isn’t low.

Make sure the connector is plugged in all the way if your getting no reading at all, if you went with an aftermarket sensor sometimes they don’t work correctly so that’s also a possibility.

Your oil pump might be going bad or already is to might want to get that check. Did the same on mine nd wasn’t reading right changed the oil pump nd it’s working better now

Which recall was it, connecting rod bearing damage? I’m in the same situation right now, tryna how I can get my engine replace

@@donnelljr93 I think it was because my car was using up a lot of oil so something with the oil good luck with yours

Thank you!

Thank you!! It is definitely not as easy as it looks but a little patience and the correct tools go a long way. Once you’ve done this repair a few dozen times or more it becomes more routine work. Thanks for reaching out.

@@SMAutoRepairLLC I have neither, but I’ll be changing my pump on Thursday. Thanks for posting the video.

So what is the exact code that is being set? I can tell you this for sure if you have an exhaust leak anywhere before the upstream 02 sensors all the way to the downstream it will most definitely set 02 codes.

the current code is po171 The leak is right in the middle of the two sensors the sensor that comes right off of the exhaust manifold with the bolts in it connecting to the exhaust running toward the catalytic converter is cracked and fully disconnected i tried latching that worked for about one ride and went right back to sounding like a diesel or a hellcat or something just loud and poppy loses power even when I’m pressing on the gas i just replaced those two sensors and the egr valve to find that pipe is busted and i just bought this vehicle

@@8000ismymiddlename yes so your on the right track for sure, have you tried to get with a local exhaust shop to see if any on it can be patched. The way it sounds look like replacing the exhaust is going to be your best option. If you choose to go used do a good visual inspection for any cracks or potential leaks before installing.

I am located in the middle of nowhere arkansas haha so i have made some calls to try and figure it out and was told by a few guys that i should order the part myself cause its real cheap on ebay etc. than have somebody come weld her on for me cause i cant weld but hey man thanks for your advice i appreciate you taking your time to help me

@@8000ismymiddlename no problem at all! Good luck

Those valves are at the service ports for the high and low side gauges. It’s not required to replace the Schrader valves inside the ports, it’s just something I do as a precautionary measure. The system is already empty and I wont have to worry about a leak from the service ports with new valves installed.

I understand. The problem why it takes everyone so long on the 4x4 is that exact reason, trying to fight around the differential instead of removing it. Remove driveshaft front axles and diff mounting bolts, drop front differential 30 mins out 30 minutes in max. It will make your life so much easier and turn 4+ hours into 2 tops. All while having enough space to work efficiently and having a quality repair. No need to remove any suspension components just remove axles inboard at the differential.

Glad this helped, here is a link to the video of the repair for this same vehicle! th-cam.com/video/YFsgYYY_B-s/w-d-xo.htmlsi=DV3B93XPyeaQbXUR

106inlbs or 9ft lbs

For a less experienced DIYER, I’d say plan on a solid 2 hours plus. If you’re more advanced and regular automotive repairs are within your skill set it could be done in an hour or less. A ratcheting 10mm wrench will be very helpful while doing this repair if you don’t have one I’d purchase one before starting the repair. The rest can be done with basic set of mechanics tools. I hope this helps!

Almost no rust on this vehicle made it super easy, you can put the axle nut on a few turns and use A dead blow hammer to try and push it out of the hub. You could also try a center punch in the middle of the axle shaft with a hammer just be cautious to not damage the threads on the axle.

@@SMAutoRepairLLC thanks for te tip. Also what type of impact drill do you use? I use a craftman and man it strugles.

@TheRivle Dewalt XR only for the price point and I have about 15 battery’s for the tools lol Milwaukee would probably be best if moneys not an issue. I just try and save where I can. But the dewalt has never let me down!

​@@SMAutoRepairLLC thanks my man I highly appreciate the help

@@TheRivle your welcome!

2.4-3.5

The oil pressure sensor just reads oil pressure it’s possible that it can develop a leak but will not cause the oil cooler/filter housing to fail on its own.

No compression could be piston rings or valves. A leak down test could be performed to determine the cause of the loss of compression. If it’s a valve leak a new cylinder head may be in order if it’s piston ring issue, you could have the engine rebuilt or replaced. Very common with Hyundai and Kia.

@@SMAutoRepairLLC how much it will cost to replace new cylinder head with labor charge for Hyundai sonata

@meghanadhrocky2004 depends on your area and if you choose to go to dealership or independent shop. Also if you’re looking at a new or used cylinder head or maybe having your head machined and all the valves replaced would change the pricing significantly. I would say easily $1200 and up.

@@SMAutoRepairLLC I am currently in New Bedford Massachusetts which is 1 hour from Boston I don’t know which location will work on this nearby my location do you know any locations near to New Bedford or boston

@@meghanadhrocky2004 I’m sorry I’m not familiar with that area. My best advise would be to google shops in your area read some reviews and call for an estimate for a cylinder head replacement and or engine so you know an estimated price for the repairs either way it goes.

The fittings for the line. The threaded portion that goes to the oil cooler in the radiator. You could remove them one at a time, clean the threads and apply thread sealant to repair the leak if that is where it’s coming from. Im not sure of your vehicles age mileage or condition but it may be worth your time to get a radiator installed instead of repairing the fitting but could be worth a shot.

In under 20 minutes I can save you hundreds on replacing a bearing your self. Really talk less??? if 20 minutes of your time is more valuable then the money saved take it to a shop to get it fixed!!! Everything said covers the information needed to properly do this repair!

You’ll find one side goes to the fuel rail and if you follow it down the other side goes to the end of main metal fuel line coming from the tank.

We don't have enough space in the back like you have on your 3.6 l . I have a 2014 Durango

We got the red part in just the blue side we can't get due to the limited space near the firewall

Did you take any parts off before connecting any parts

@gregorystarr5977 just that fuel line that is all

They will if no misfires are detected. Could take a couple drive cycles.

Glad it helped you out and the windshield got to live 😂

Runs the risk of premature switch failure, but you could remove it.

How long have you been running it without it

K&N on any vehicle is just a bad idea in general I can not stand them!!! Mostly Contaminated MAF sensors being the biggest issues. OEM Air Cleaner or alike is what I recommend to everyone but if I a customer has K&N installed that’s there choice. All we can do is inform and educate them on this topic but ultimately it’s their vehicle.

I thought the k&n filter for this vehicle specifically was just a replacement for the OEM one. From what I know it isn’t different just designed to be reusable, am I wrong?

@@TruFire710 OEM Fit of course, the problem is it’s reusable. The filters and cleaning kits to maintain these filters are oiled that oil can lead to contamination of the MAF sensor. If the MAF sensor becomes contaminated from these oils it can lead to sensor failure or inaccurate MAF readings resulting in no start conditions or false rich or lean conditions. I hope this helps.

@@TruFire710 if its “reusable” then that means its a washable filter. You apply an oil to it after washing it. Your supposed to give it about 24 hours to dry and the oil is not supposed to go into the intake but in my experience everyone has some get into it. Hybrids specifically dont have a good way of dealing with oil in the intake as the motor does not run constantly and the ability for it to be burned off in combustion… that system isnt as robust as on a regular engine. There is not really an upgrade path for hybrids beyond proper maintenance. You already purchased it so use it. Just when it comes time to wash and oil it, be wary and give it the proper time to dry before applying oil and let it sit and the oil dry before returning it to the airbox. I only use the motocraft parts on my fusion hybrid and am currently sitting at 48mpg avg. I use mobil one restore and protect 0w20 with a mobil one full synthetic media oil filter. Good luck to you 😉.

A little heat and a chisel or carefully make a cut in the race and use a chisel to split it. If you access to a oxy acetylene torch you can heat and spin it off easily. If not the cut and split method is generally the easiest for a DIYER. Just be careful not to cut into the shaft of the hub.

Glad you enjoyed

No problem thanks for reaching out, the pressure lines should be replaced if you see any sign of a leak. If it looks wet at all or a ton of rust built up on any part of the line set it definitely wouldn’t hurt to go ahead and change them out while your in there. A small leak on a pressure line can turn into a massive leak pretty quickly! For the reservoir if it’s in still looking good no heat cracks you’ll be ok to keep it, there’s no pressure on that part of the system.

@@SMAutoRepairLLC awesome, brother. Thank you. Subbed and liked.. 👍

Thanks you!

Your welcome