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Kettle is on dude 😀

Damn wish I’d thought of that 😂🤦‍♂️ thanks for the tip.

Cheers pal. I hadn’t but I will make a note of that, sounds like a good shout to me.

Unfortunately if I haven’t mentioned the measurements in the video then I wouldn’t have a clue. And I can’t measure them for you now because they’re inaccessible when fitted. I would message the supplier and tell them there are parts missing.

The 10mm showing through is from the outer face piece folded over that I first put on. But yeah I get what you’re saying and would’ve been better. Would’ve added a bit more cushioning too. I’m gonna get my thinking cap on for the next time I trim some and if I can’t come up with anything then yeah I’ll be doing it your way. Thanks.

Yeah my mate gave me the heads on them on the weekend. I’ve seen them in the past but totally forgot they existed. It’ll either be the m5 button head bolts or dzus. Possibly a combo of both.

Haha there’s quite a bit of it in the construction of the window sills. I was using up leftovers.

😂 I feel like you know me well. I like breaking away from the norm and also I like learning things. Will help me in the future when I build more vans is what I’m thinking. Plus it might help others too.

@@EndlessRoadJaz there's nothing wrong with knowing what you like and dislike and sticking to your guns with what you want your van to look like. it also makes your van builds unique . there are so many vans that looks alike. keep it unique brother lol no theres a tshirt ha ha ha

Thanks! Yeah there will be something at the front. Also I’m probably going to swap out the brackets I made in this video to threaded rods too.

There will probably be some areas visible in the next video.

Haha I’m not sure about amazing but thanks anyway. Glad I could help though. Obviously if you’re looking to do a more professional fairing you might use clay to sculpt it and then take moulds of it to then produce the final fibreglass panels.

Cheers dude. It’ll be having a different exhaust and then I’m thinking both wrap and gold tape, just so there’s the most protection for the paint as possible.

I hadn’t lol but I’ll keep that in mind! Thanks for that. I’ll have to get one of them for my next bike. Thanks!

Kinda the look I’m going for but for the road.

Haha yeah it’s getting chopped down into a mini version.

I didn’t have a clue what colour scheme to go for 😂 ended up saving loads of interior pics I liked and went with the scheme that had the most pics. It was probably inevitable though as my fave colour is ‘black’. Ah thanks, hopefully it should be fitted in the next video or the one after. Just waiting on some wiring to turn up for the spots etc.

A couple of reasons. I wanted to start off with rollering so that I could do my next van better with spraying. Plus I didn’t fancy spraying the wood that was left in the van because I’d have to mask off absolutely everything in the van. Didn’t want to take it out because I wasn’t confident enough that it would go back in again lol because it’s my first time making cabinets etc. And if I sprayed what came out and rollered what stayed in then I don’t think they would match. Rubbish excuses but yeah the next van will be sprayed.

Argghhh opportunities missed!!

Yes only for lwb with single sliding door. Although you could possibly take them to a good Bodyshop and have them cut down to fit a swb.

Check out episode 22 for the finished bed.

Haha. Plus it’s how we learn and improve.

Ah glad I could help you out buddy.

@@EndlessRoadJaz you don’t by any chance have a solution to adjusting the sliding door do you? I know how to adjust the front of the door but it’s the rear of the door that I can’t find any where to raise or lower it. I need to raise the door about 2 or 3 mm to get it to line up with the body work lines. There’s no vids anywhere that I’ve managed to fine on this. Only how to change the sliding door bracket with the roller on the bottom. Any help would be great. 👍🏼

From memory you have to access the 2 bolts that hold on the mid rail bracket. You get to these by taking off the inner door card. Best to have two people or a jack to hold the door in place, slacken the 2 bolts, move the door up and then retighten. Only problem is (as with all these doors lol) it might take a few attempts and once you’ve done it you might have to adjust at the front again after.

I’m hoping to do the 2nd part (electrics) towards the end of this month. So if you can hang on for a bit I should be able to do a vid on how to do it fella.

Haha thank you

Yes a narrower table would wobble less but it will still do it because it’s the hinge that wobbles. Plus having an extra leg is a better trade off for me than having to sacrifice width and the extra weight of 18mm. I’ve witnessed a few other brands of tables since making mine and they all wobbled at the hinge.

I make them. I’m very sorry but I don’t make them for the swb. You could order a set for a lwb and possibly cut them down to fit a swb though.

@@EndlessRoadJaz yes good idea what would they cost me and be posted to Manchester

They are £625 for a pair with a fitting kit. I’d have to find out postage.

Get well soon matey. Yeah they have airbags but as far as I’m aware, without power they won’t deploy. I won’t be connecting them. Ah right ok cool.

@@EndlessRoadJaz do you need any electrical connections I've thousands of the crimping ones forks rings bullets blades obviously no use to me now but thas wa I used to wire up the campers when we did few in garage 😉 and another tip for cheap wiring buy trailer cable 7 core 6 inner cable are same n plenty thick enough for most 12v in cars vans n 7th is slightly heavier gauge for earth or something tha draws more current you can get 13 core but it's still quite expensive 😉 wish my hands worked I'd be down there sorting your wires out lol used to love doing strangely enough nice and relaxing lmfao 😀

Yeah 2 legs better than one. Don’t think a metal plate would do anything as it rocks on the hinge pivot, not where it’s screwed to the wood. And I’ve seen a few different brands of foldable legs since the vid and they all wobble. The legs that slot in the floor and don’t fold are better.

Yeah I saw latch’s like that this week and the table was still wobbly. It’s not the rail end that seems to be the problem.

Not yet buddy. I’ve had a chat with a lad that reckons he can get them working. Pretty sure the standard controls won’t work so will have fit some aftermarket 3 way switch’s underneath probably. I’m not sure if they’re heated atm, but I’m just focussing on the motors for now. Probably won’t be for a few weeks yet.

@EndlessRoadJaz I keep watching vids where they look quite an easy retro fit and can easily be wired up..On this particular seat, I am not so sure though.. Fact that you actually have them there in front of you will give you a much better idea. They are a nice seat though and way better than the older cloth ones I presently have in my camper.

Hi there again fella. I picked up my seat today, yay 🎉.. Just wondering how you knew what each wire does amd were able to label them? Might I get a pic of the labelled up wires to help me move forwards. Cheers again.

Hey. I just labeled them as I removed them from each item etc. So the motor that controls the rails I labeled motor 1 and then labeled the plug going to it motor 1 as well. Then just did the same for everything underneath the seat. There are some electric behind the back panel of the seat too. I would recommend getting someone who knows what they’re doing to do it for you if you’re unsure though.

Yeah man, have a sit in it. I’ll get the kettle on.

Ah that’s good to hear. I might try and see if I can sit in some other vans with swivels to see. I suppose it makes sense because it’s like sitting in a chair with one leg really.

Difference is quality takes time 👍

@@grumpygrandpa3640 you’d be surprised :)

Yeah it’s definitely taken longer than I thought. But there are a lot of things that take up so much more time. Like painting the outside, the suspension, the roofrack, designing and developing the pods and internal trims. Basically learning how to do some sort of carpentry etc. And on top of that I have to film and edit everything. But I guess the main thing that has lengthened the build process is having to work on customers vehicles and saving up to buy all the parts. Because as you probably know, they’re not cheap.

@@EndlessRoadJaz I absolutely get it. Mine was pretty much some carpentry, and electronics and I was lucky enough to have friends that have experience doing both… I didn’t mean it in a negative way whatsoever!

That’s ok dude. No negativeness taken. I’m not looking forward to the electronics haha.

Had to google that. Good shape.

Yeah I’ll be replacing the forks. Not worried about the ride as it’s not gonna get ridden anywhere. It’s just a show bike. Are you sure about the clip ons? I don’t think you’re supposed to see the tightening thread on the top. Plus every pic I’ve seen on google has it the same way as mine?

@@EndlessRoadJaz from what I could see they were pointing up and not down. Also I have a mate with a complete zzr250 rolling chassis that will be going cheap that will give you front and rear suspension

That’s interesting to know. Are the shocks a different length too?

Its not true

I will admit expanding foam isn’t the best. I would’ve preferred to use just the insulation board but trying to get it to fit to the sides of a bike was too difficult.