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You disassembled the motor why not true and balance the rotor on the lathe

The Harrison AA (slightly more complicated version of the M300) I take care of had this rotary selector seized as well. In my case, there was about 0.005" of a varnish like substance coating everything below the oil level. Kerosene didn't touch it, but acetone and a brush took it right off. I had to remove the box, but didn't need to disassemble any of the shafts. Don't let the acetone sit, as Delrin and acetone are not good friends. Also of note, on the AA model once you get the driven shafts off and the vertical rod out of the way, there is room to get the box out by sliding toward the bed without funny angle wrestling.

th-cam.com/video/gCUkJydSmdA/w-d-xo.html.

Can the apron be removed with the slides still in place? Get yourself some workshop rubber gloves, they sre fsr more durable, snd grippy. They can be reused.

I have been down this road myself. All your problems are where the plate meets the grinder shaft step, as you said in the beginning. The shaft fit on the arbor is less than ideal. The only way you will get it even close is to buy a grinding wheel with a 32mm center hole, then make an arbor that fits neatly on the shaft and neatly inside the wheel at the full depth of the wheel. Then you will get the length of the shaft / arbor supporting the wheel. Only then you might be close to getting a balanced grinder. Hope this helps, Cheers

May I ask a question. With the cross slide and the compound slide. How much distance do they cover with one revolution of each slides wheel/ handle. I have a m300 myself and its imperial inches and I can't handle it. I need to make a metric readout to replace the existing one.

Question. I have an M300 which, when turning 8 full revolutions on the main saddle gives me 19.6mm. We are trying to work out if its a metric or imperial setup. The lathe has metric thread cutting but the closest unit of measure I have is that one full revolution of the saddle wheel seems to do 0.1 inchs. Any idea? The parts manual lists them as either SA-0070 (Imperial) or SA-0080 (Metric). Any ideas please? Thanks.

Great video. very useful thank you. I have the same problem with my Volvo C30... With a lot of water sloshing around under the carpet etc. The seal at the edges of the front windscreen has gaps and needs replacing.

Hello Samuel . I have been following Your successes and failures for some time. Try not to beat yourself up too much when things don't go as planned as you do very well for a someone without any formal machining training. I did my apprentiship many decades ago.. Back in those days a Fitting,Turning and Machining apprenticship took 10,000 hours (5 years, 8 hours a day 5 days a week ) and no time off for good behavior. There are many tens of thousands of hobby machinists out who do very well but it takes many many hours

Buy a set of thread wires to measure the actual pitch diameter of the thread you are cutting. Cut the thread so that the PD is in the middle of the tolerance range. Cut the OD of the thread so that it also is in the middle of the tolerance range. Make sure your threading insert has a small enough radius for the thread you are cutting. If you do that all commercial nuts should go on no problem. As others have said: Your lathe is working as it should, it's just wear and minute inaccuracies from the factory. :)

Love your videos. The saddle could have benefited from a scraping. At least to relive the middle a bit and get some more oil-retention.

Thank you! I always use Spherical washers as well😎

Samuel, glad you found no damage to your gearhead. i have have a lathe from Chester tools same size as your's (gearhead box much larger than the Harrison but not of it's quality) you are lucky. My problem shortly after importing into Ireland was oil leaking from feed change box, no chance of sending this back to U.K would cost a fortune, no info. on how to remove the feed box so removed front plate of box to get a look ( big mistake) all the gravity latches on the top and bottom shafts which aid side to side movement of gears DROPPED I then had to remove the motor and and the back gears plus the entire box. Job took about 2 days to complete. P.S never take remove the front plate on this box instead remove the box from under the gearhead in one piece and then carry out service thru. the now open back side of the box (or all the controls will drop out of position," heart breaking" I am 75 don't have the time for this kind of mess. Best of luck , you have a lovely shop well done.

great fix, cheers from the US, Paul

Well done Mr Fielder, and thanks for sharing your experience with us.

That was interesting thank you. Funny how these latent problems can be dormant waiting to show themselves later. It takes a long time to fully get to know a machine. Cheers

That was a good fix! My M300 headstock is fairly noisy, but the lathe is over 50 years old. Like you, I don't use the fastest two speeds either.

Good result. I just need to sort out the lubrication and I'm ready to run mine. Been wasting my time with enquiries to Colchester for Dickson tool holders. They clearly aren't interested in selling stuff. Can now understand why people are buying knock offs from India.

Phew! Beers are on you!

Thanks good to know The one at work has a few issues with the headstock gears because they didn’t realise you had to push them selectors in before you turn them

Good to see you back Samuel. Pleased you sorted it out. I too never use them top gears, my house lights dim when I do.🤣

Hello Samuel. Your misfortune was our fortune, in that we got to see you again. So pleased that you were able to “fix” your lathe and give a heads up to other Harrison owners. Hope to see more from you in due course. Stay well. 👍😀

Hi Samuel. Thank you for sharing. My M300 sounds very bad on high gear range, even worse in reverse.

Interesting and informative. Nice to see you again Samuel 👍

Thanks for an interesting little video, now I will know what to look for if it happens to me, hopefully it won't. I'm glad it was an easy fix for you in the end, I can just imagine the sickening feelings you had when you heard that horrible noise 😮

Interesting findings

Admiration for the petion and the craftsmanship!

Seems the grind takes care of the one issue, but runout will only go away if you can either precisely cut the jaws for two results (grip and concentuality) or if you do as you did, correct the grip, then add or modify your back plate to allow for tru adjust type modification on the 3 jaw. Either case, it sure is nerve wracking when it comes to fixing these issues. Thanks for sharing!

I turn the speed right down when doing parting. It’s not the easiest thing to do

The only reason you could get 3 phase is because it was available outside your house. If it was 50 m further up the road it would have been virtually impossible (of course with enough money you can have power anywhere!). Very jealous of your 3 phase service!

Hi Samuel hope your OK is the Nursling sub statkon you showed the one right next to the motorway where it goes into southampton? The reason i ask is because it looks llike it theres a scrap yard and lots of lorry trailers and containers right near it. I admit i like looking at power lines and equipment on the rare occasions i go out. Finally where did you find the map of the 132/33/11Kv network would like to find it for my area (Weymouth ) Cheers

My new term is "Shop Shy" everything is junk, customer service is shit, warranty is shit. Keep your money til they all go bankrupt and decide to have companies make better stuff

At last, some solid information on the subject. Thank you!

Old turners trick, balance the offset driving dog by adding nuts to the dog locking screw. It may be necessary to use a longer bit of screwed bar to accommodate the nuts required. It is better to use a face plate to drive the dog as weights can be added to the plate to compensate for dog and off set work. A dead centre in the tailstock will take the bearing error out of the rotating centre.

Hello Samuel. I very much enjoyed watching your videos regarding the apron rebuild. I was wondering if you had any experience with the ways oiler piston? I have a newer rebadged Clausing and the oiler had stopped working. I assume the o-rings gave out but I’m not sure. Did you rebuild yours when you had the apron apart? I had a local repair tech suggest I might be able to remove the bottom plate and repair it without having to remove the apron from the machine.

Hi Samuel My M300 came with the same S1 tool post and two holders, so I face the same dilemma. My toolpost was also missing the location pin. I note there isn't one on your Dickson toolpost. Do you have the pin, and if so, do you use it ?

Just had the same issue on my XC70. No response from Volvo...

Thanks for the video Samuel. I have a similar swing gate from CAME and I too have a similar problem with one arm. Since getting back from a few weeks holiday this winter, the arm has stopped working completely. No amount of banging resolves it and the lead screw won’t turn 😀. I can hear a click when I engage the gates and then again when it is meant to stop. I swapped the capacitor from the other arm and it still didn’t work. I guess the only option is to dissect it and investigate further.

Good afternoon to you. I watch your videos of how you repair a lathe. I like your TH-cam channel. My subscription is like. Stay healthy and good luck to you.

Re the rear rail caps, there is a tiny hole on the side that with a tool with a small point or perhaps a paper clip you can push into to and remove the end caps very easily.

Hi Samuel Getting 3 phase connected can be a challenge where I live in Australia. My street is serviced by a 2 wire HV line with 240V step down pole mounted transformers. For my M300 lathe, I've gone down the VFD route. I have other machines such as drills using VFDs. It probably helps that my business involves the supply and support of VFD equipment, so I get them cheap.

Hi Samuel Came here because of the M300. Beautiful and tranquil garden. As well as the lathe project, I'm also landscaping our rather large backyard - I guess a retirement project.

I have an second hand Harrison m250 and I bought it with almost 1000$ but without the saddle and I thought I will be found easily but I was wrong.. now i need to make one if I can,,

G'day Samuel, Many thanks for sharing, and a special thanks for your perseverance! You're the one who deserves a medal as you've provided an insight that will be beneficial to those of us who are grappling with the same issues.

FIND HER A NEW HOME AND GIVE IT AWAY YOU WILL BE SPARED SOME EXPENSES INCLUDING ELECTRICITY BILLS TO RUN IT.

Have you found anyone who sells well-balanced grinding wheels yet?

I had the same issue with my 2012 Volvo XC60-T6 and lifted the carpets and put a small heater and a small fan to dry each side out. My problem was both the sun roof drains were plugged and I cut the ends off the tubes which are under the cowl between the windshield and hood and that opened up the tubes, I also removed the trim on the sides of the windshield, cleaned everything up and put in new sealer. Everything seems fine now. I love my Volvo but not happy with the support from Volvo or the dealer as they were useless in helping to get this resolved.

Samuel, as a kid I was always pulling things apart to see what was inside. I'm now in my sixties and haven't grown out of this habit. I'm also about to tackle an M300 I recently purchased. I've got all the electrics gutted out of it as I convert it to 240V and VSD control. I've learnt so much from your very honest and well produced videos.

That gel is silicone based so I can't imagine it would ever be that hard.

Good to see you back on Woodstock! I have had serious issues with cables themselves, because if the cable gets nicked or water somehow ingresses between the cable sheath and the inner cables, it gets everywhere. At some point up-armoring that GPS cable might be useful. I am impressed with the casing, well up to your normal high standards!