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"Fucking enormous" Instantlly became your subscriber. Keep up the awesome work. Thanks !

The thing about grinding the jaws is that it's not generally the jaws causing the runout, especially on well used chucks and the cheap ones, I found even on high quality chucks the scrolls wear, they are generally cast iron with the problem being using only say one third of the chuck from say 10 to 50mm for most of the work done in that chuck bear in mind there is also varying amounts of tension on the scroll throughout its range, you might get it running true holding round stock in the same spot you ground it out but I doubt it will maintain that accuracy through its range especially on the outside. High Tolerance 3 jaw chucks have bolt on reversable Jaws in different hardnesses you can even buy very soft or padded jaws and even with these chucks you should never expect them to be perfect , that's what collet chucks are for, I generally found if a chuck has run out especially with hard jaws it's time to get a new chuck, if buying a new chuck ask for its tolerances they come in a fairly wide range where price is everything. Check your spindle bearings for wear Funny things happen at different speeds and loads, if fitting a new chuck that's imperative, if you need to machine the backing plate do it only on the machine spindle the chuck is going to be used on for the best results.

Great video. I have Harrison M400 and currently struggling with disassembly and repairs. This material is really helpful for me. Thank you

I have one and it works looks reasonably new like 2 years. Would ypu replace it with a manrose mf100t or a turbo 100pro

Nothing wrong with those tool holders. I bought a Chinese tool post and about 25 holders and have been pleased with them. I have been using my tool post and holders for 7 years and they have been great. Here is my video: th-cam.com/video/6newTBEeDEE/w-d-xo.html

Thanks Samuel. I've been looking to do the same for broaching D shaped holes for BNC plugs in thin equipment panels

Hi Samuel, the simplest way to create the D shaped hole is to make the hole round, then on a bar of the same diameter, mill flat down to the chored required, cut off & fix the segment into the hole with an appropriate method depending on the material (glue, solder etc). Ideal for this situation.

Brilliant video, the commentary is amazing. Great to see how you got around it in the end. I’ve bought a 6” and 8” Leroy Somer bench grinders, made in France in 1988. Got new wheels for them, and I don’t think it matters who made the wheels really, you’ve just got to add less weight to the pricier ones.

Good video. The main reasons for fencer faults is lightning

Hi, I got 3 hotline fencer in for repair just for something to do in my retirement. All got difference boards, but the only one got me thinking got your version. Thank for the diagram. And your wave form are correct or the same as mine. I'm down for the repair cafe too. JS

Hi Samuel, a valiant effort and you learnt from it as have others therefore 100% success 👍. Another approach would be to 'stage' the broaches into 2 or 3 shorter lengths and turn the taper onto the blank meaning your clearance would be much easier to apply as you would only be applying clearance up to the turned diameter. This would allow you to have many more teeth per linear length fairly easily which would need less swarf clearance thereby strengthening the whole broach. I think if you remade this the same way as your original, applying angular clearance to the flat sections as you correctly called out, and gave the wire wheel a miss you would find it much better. The wire wheel will have definitely taken the keen edge off all the teeth, even in the hardened state. A final tip if you ever do anything similar is to ensure your quench is absolutely perpendicular to the tool, this avoids any bending caused by uneven quenching etc. None of the above is to criticise or take away anything from what you have achieved by the way, just paying forward my experience in the hope it helps others 😉. Well done.

The end result looked to me to fully fit for purpose. It fits, it may be slightly off centre but who would know. I doubt if one could tell by rotating the knob. I made the same mistakes re amount of cut and depth of gullet. I have a large fly press so as long as I use machine grade alloy it works ok. However mine is a double D for a throttle body, so I can use a central hole. By the way, 2011 works much better than 6061 in my case. I have used a hex rotary broach to cut thousands of holes, but only as deep as the hex on a cap screw. In your instance I would broach as deep as I could, then drill out the back of the hole to the 6 diameter. Broaches and broaching holders are not cheap. If you look at the prices of these tools, I am sure you will realise just how “perfect” your attempt is. LOL. Nigel

Hi Samuel, thanks for an interesting video, that was a valiant effort and the tempering of the steel must have been good for the tool not to shatter. Rotary D broaches are commercially available see slater tools or polygon solutions. The advantage of a rotary broach is you can form a blind hole as well. For a one off i would go for the cheats option of drilling a full round hole and silver soldering in a piece of metal to fill in the minor segment of the circle. Or the brute force way for a plastic boss would be to pilot drill and press a suitably hot D shape bar through to mould it. Then mount the bar in the lathe between centres and turn concentric, and hide the evidence 😁

Many thanks for a very interesting project, Samuel 👍

14:44 nice vice grips, which model is it?

Watched with interest your grinder videos thank you. I turned an aluminium bush exactly as shown in the video by GRAIN and it cured the problem. If the shoulders are 60-70mm wide it should be possible to drill them and fit a lead slug inside for ballance.

I have to say, your patience and tenacity is very impressive. I understand your annoyance at a poorly made product, too, but you stuck at it and got the job done. Hats off to you, well done.

If it is working except that it fails to run on after the light switch is turned off, then you only need to replace the 330 uF 16V electrolytic capacitor. Any one that will fit that is rated at 16 volts or more would do. I also replaced the 22K Ohm power resistor, because it was burnt (although still functioning). I used a 22 KOhm resistor rated at 7 watts, although I think a 5, 6 or 7 watt one would do.

Great video...thanks. Im no electrician but can see that my Manrose extractor has done exactly the same thing. In fact this is the second one. Any chance you could spell out the components you changed (specification) so I can do like wise? I guess my best bet is RS Components? Thank

Thanks for posting. You've given me inspiration on how to tackle the mounting of my similar, but different brand, die grinder.

Never, ever buy a Harrison or Colchester lathe that hasn't got hardened bedways! some don't and some do, I guess this was a typical British product where the hardened bedways were an optional extra!

Further to say that I'm currently using an old TOS lathe and I live with the wear - since most machining is carried out over a small part of the bed, accuracy is not so bad. I mentioned earlier using drills, sanding discs and lapping/scraping - do not do this unless you have several hundred hours to spend and some very good comparator measuring tools.

My advice would be to regrind the bedways or search machinery auctions - a good M300 will be far cheaper than eBay - quite often by a factor of >5. If you want accuracy go for a good used Dean Smith & Grace

Dear Samuel. Many years ago whilst an undergraduate a friend & I restored a Holbrook lathe using a drill, sanding attachments, various dial gauges and other measurements to get the bedways straight. The final stages involved lapping the bed-ways with ever finer paste and then scraping. It can be done!

Lovely series and he uses a RPN calculator - all the best people do!

Thank you so much I had feed selector it could not turn. I marked all the parts with centre punch before I took the gears etc out to keep reassembly in the right order I reassembled it after skimming the cams and still would not work .Sent Email to Harrison and they kindly sent pdf instructions on how to set the cams on the square shaft. I think this problem was encountered by the previous owner and might have try to fix the problem and messed up the rotation order and placed out of position. And indeed the cams where out of sequence For the benefit of others with same problem I cannot upload pdf instructions but will type how to do this this is how Harrison describe the procedure The cams come as a set of 8, when 2 are matched together they make a groove and in this groove you will find a dip in the groove. The dip in the groove is what we are describing when we move them on the shaft. The Cam 1 onto the shaft anywhere on the shaft, Note where the dip on the cam is set on the shaft when the helical gear is to your right The Cam 2 set the dip of the cam on the shaft one on from the first dip and by moving the cam away from you which would be in anticlockwise direction Cam 3 move the dip in the same direction as the second but move it 2 places from the second cam again in anticlockwise direction Cam 4 move the dip back 1 space in a clockwise direction Hope this helps its been like breaking the enigma code only harder Thank you Mr Fielder for teaching me some colourful words

Get a Baldor. End of story.

another great video

Only 3 days. Mines been sitting for 2 months!!!¿. The plate collet adjusts the outer edge of the wheel. The wheel is the biggest problem. I need the accuracy!💕🤗👍💐💐

Been watching a few of your video's because I am in the market for this exact model lathe. Just a few things I did notice and please take this as just an obeservation and not trying to be safety police, I would stronly suggest not to wear watches or jewelry when working with the lathe, as well as the loose clothing you sometimes wear is really dangerous, in a previous video you had worn a tracksuit trouser tied with stiring pulls at the front and they can get easily get picked up by spinning handwheels and or swarf. Also spinning the chuck at speed without it holding a piece or at least tightened down is bad practice. Hope you get all the niggles sorted with your lathe as they are really good machines.

Desarme un motor de estos y se me cayo al piso y volaron todas las piezas y gracias a este video lo arme y funciona perfecto

Good day it's Isaac can you please help me cos I used to cut threads on my centre lathe but now it doesn't wanna to change pitch it only allows to cut 1 pitch what can be wrong

I think you could have achieved a better grind if you had put the holding ring on the inside rear of the jaws.

My thoughts at the end regarding your comment..” I think I’ve cracked it”.. Be careful what you wish for…lol

Wow you are smart and a good explainer. That is a lot of work. Well worth it im sure since drying it without removing the carpet sounds like a snail race. Did you notice lots of droplets falling or was most of the water invisibly running from the windshield to the floor? I saw a used xc60 today and it had a damp carpet after a big rain as well. I dont think you caused the issue. Surely the glass would not unseal just from that. It's probably a factory defective seal. I imagine but im not sure that the air pressure from closing the door pushes a lot more than the blue tak or hands ever would. (For a piece of glass that is supposed to stay glued in a crash)

If we layout sensor and data collection we can form a boat of imaginary structure then generate dynamics fly by just like real drone flying as remote sensing like real patrol boat include even instant reaction using mp4 and sonic force to response to needed demand instantly which is like omni present omni potent og god vision

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Prooves you can't make chicken salad from chicken crap!!!,

Hi Samuel great to hear and see other people come up with ideas and glad you got the rubber seal sorted cheers.

Hi Samuel just came across your video, going to watch them all now and wanted to say thx for the mention and my rubber seal still good to this day :) cheers.

Well done, what a fun project. Did you form any opinion if the thyristor failed and zapped the UJT or vice versa? My electronics never extended to UJT's so that led to some educational reads.

Great video Samuel, nice little circuit to fault find but still not easy when you don't have the schematic. How concerned would you be of receiving a shock from it?

Never heard of a Repair Cafe, so did some research after watching your video. Discovered there's one not far from me. Have to pay a visit. I like fixing things.

My several modern, and older, fencers pulse at about 1 second. 6-8 kV is about right, also.

Electric fences do indeed go off every about 1.5 seconds. That sounds about right. Any more delay than that, and the animal can possibly escape or get tangled and keep getting shocked.

Hi, we had the same thing happen to our Deckel FP-2. No harm done !

Hi Samuel. Tailstock quill can be hardchromed to add material and make it oversized. Then re-engraved or laser etched. You can then have the tailstock barrel bored on a horizontal borer. Unfortunately this is the world of machine tools in the UK, there are a lot of dogs (bad machines) out there and plenty of shady dealers looking to move bad machines on. I don't know how much you paid for the lathe but you'd be looking at £3k+ to grind the lathe. Personally i think it's probably uneconomical. Gamet bearings in your headstock are a special size and not available from timken. Colchester who owned Gamet did it on purpose. If you're looking for a trusted supplier give me an email and i'll pass some contacts on in the industry who only deal in quality used tools, not worn out tools.

i'm no electrical engineer but could you not have put some kapton tape between the caps and the resistor ?

Ok, I posted a comment on the first video, but after watching all 3 parts, and reading every single comment (it's entirely possible I missed a few), I am scratching my head as to how not a single person, in watching you vanish down this rabbit hole, thought it prudent to try recapping the basics with you. Occum's Razor appears to have been eschewed, in favor of watching you turn all of your 10mm bar stock into swarf. So, now I'm forced to tsktsk the regular viewers. _<finger wagging, disapprovingly>_ Since I'm still over a year late regarding commenting on this video, I can only hope someone has since pointed you toward measuring runout on your spindle, and your 3-jaw chuck (I don't know if you have a 4-jaw or a collet chuck for verification purposes), but all of the calculations you ran through seem to indicate (on top of the tool/work deflection you already confirmed) significant runout needing addressed. Perhaps a bolt/bolts have been under/over-tightened, perhaps the chuck, spindle, or mounting bracket need to be reground, perhaps one of the jaws is dinged or dented or uneven. We won't know which issue(s) might exist until you can get an indicator mounted up and begin chasing down leads. Have you been able to verify that your toolpost is correctly leveled on center? It's not likely to be the sole cause of your plight, but it could be 0.001-0.005mm above/below centerline, and/or even tilted at an angle (due to wear in your compound and/or cross-slide ways). Since nobody suggested these very basic sanity checks be conducted, I'm concerned...

Accepting that I'm commenting a year and a half late, have you since worked out from where the taper you were cutting originated? If so, then you can just disregard the rest of this comment. Do you have the tools necessary to measure the runout on that 3-jaw chuck (or perhaps your spindle)? I thought I was detecting the slightest bit of runout at the end of the work as it spun, before you began threading. I can't be certain, as there isn't much uncut time in the video with the work spinning freely and you aren't threading, and what I'm seeing might be actually be video artifacting, or the camera might not be 100% stable. Alternatively, when doing a facing operation, does it cleanly smooth out the surface all the way to the very center of the work, or is there still a nub remaining (it might actually be incredibly slight)? I'm asking because that would indicate your tool holder is slightly beneath or proud of the center line. One or both of these scenarios would definitely contribute to your lathe inadvertently cutting a taper.