I found your channel whilst searching for info on removing the front spindle bearing on an M300. Mine has coolant damage at the bottom of the cup resulting in some pitting. I've located a used Gamet bearing in better nick than mine and now need to swap it. I watch Max Grant but hadn't made the connection with the problem I'll face pulling the cone off the spindle, so thank you! You've shown me the way and have gained another subscriber as a thank you.
Thanks. I can't promise much more along these lines because I've pretty much got to the end of my saga on the M300. I never really intended to start a machinists channel. It's really supposed to be about autonomous sailing boats, but I got distracted!
I am rebuilding a Boxford STS lathe which has very similar flanged type Gamet bearings. There isn't much info on these spindle bearings around and it took me a long time to find your videos! Today I started disassembling the headstock but couldn't seem to get my spindle out, it wouldn't budge with the usual method everyone shows (tapping the rear with a soft hammer). I will try again tomorrow using the threaded rod through the spindle/bridged/blocks onto the headstock technique. I also read that same paragraph in the Gamet book and came to the realisation that these bearings are installed with much more interference than "garden variety" spindle bearings. Thanks for the great videos, it really helps to see the parts in detail.
Thanks. Have you seen Australian Max Grant's 4-part series on replacing headstock bearings in a different, I think Taiwanese, lathe? th-cam.com/video/yfUFuPndGDY/w-d-xo.html At 1hr into this video he says he used off-the-shelf SKF replacement bearings and got good results in terms of runout.
@@samuelfielder I have actually already watched that and a lot of Max's other videos, also very helpful. My lathe was supplied with the "upgraded" Gamet bearings, I also have part numbers for the standard issue Timken bearings which aren't too expensive but I am in New Zealand so they will need to be imported. My bearings seem fine and I'm hoping to reuse but hopefully I get the spindle out today and inspect them. My main issue is wear on some of the gears causing a lot of noise when the machine is run at high speed. Replacement of some gears is the main reason for tearing down the headstock.
@@samuelfielder I managed to get my spindle out using the threaded rod press method, gosh it was scarily tight! My next question is how did you get the rear bearing race back on during reassembly? I am thinking about heating it up a bit in the oven, maybe 80-90C, to give it a bit more clearance. My only worry is that plastic retainer, I don't want to damage it, hopefully it is made with a heat resistant polymer? Did you use heat to install?
@@JeremyYoungDesign I think your rear race must have been tighter than mine. I don't recall a problem getting it back on, but I think heating it to 80 deg C would be fine. The plastic retainer is, I think, only needed to stop the bearing falling apart before it gets into its cup. I think I broke mine (it was brittle) and I just used a rubber O-ring instead.
@@samuelfielder I cleaned the rear bearing carefully in kerosene. Did you ever try offering the bearing cone up to the cup by hand and turning it by hand? Mine feels quite rough, almost like it is full of grit. This had me a bit worried but after a bit of mucking around and adding a bit of oil it seems to have improved. I think perhaps the bearings need some preload and a few rotations to allow the rollers to find their place and roll smoothly??
All I can say is that the ID is 70mm, the OD is 112.712mm and the overall thickness is 33mm. These are pretty odd dimensions! The XC version indicates a flanged cup, where the outer ring or cup has a flange on it so that it can be driven into a through-bored hole and will still come to rest in the right place.
@@vorezkysianipar2406 Sorry, I gave dimensions for the front spindle bearing. Back one is ID 55mmm, OD 100.0 mm, overall thickness 29.5 mm. Cup flange. I cannot give URLs in these comments as youtube deletes them. If you Google exactly the following "bearing stocks" gamet super precision tapered roller bearings you should find a PDF download of the Gamet catalogue 2014. Whether these are still being made is another question.
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I found your channel whilst searching for info on removing the front spindle bearing on an M300. Mine has coolant damage at the bottom of the cup resulting in some pitting. I've located a used Gamet bearing in better nick than mine and now need to swap it.
I watch Max Grant but hadn't made the connection with the problem I'll face pulling the cone off the spindle, so thank you! You've shown me the way and have gained another subscriber as a thank you.
Thanks. I can't promise much more along these lines because I've pretty much got to the end of my saga on the M300. I never really intended to start a machinists channel. It's really supposed to be about autonomous sailing boats, but I got distracted!
As always, very interesting indeed. Your films are essentially reference material for owners of M series Harrison lathes.
I am rebuilding a Boxford STS lathe which has very similar flanged type Gamet bearings. There isn't much info on these spindle bearings around and it took me a long time to find your videos! Today I started disassembling the headstock but couldn't seem to get my spindle out, it wouldn't budge with the usual method everyone shows (tapping the rear with a soft hammer). I will try again tomorrow using the threaded rod through the spindle/bridged/blocks onto the headstock technique. I also read that same paragraph in the Gamet book and came to the realisation that these bearings are installed with much more interference than "garden variety" spindle bearings. Thanks for the great videos, it really helps to see the parts in detail.
Thanks. Have you seen Australian Max Grant's 4-part series on replacing headstock bearings in a different, I think Taiwanese, lathe? th-cam.com/video/yfUFuPndGDY/w-d-xo.html At 1hr into this video he says he used off-the-shelf SKF replacement bearings and got good results in terms of runout.
@@samuelfielder I have actually already watched that and a lot of Max's other videos, also very helpful. My lathe was supplied with the "upgraded" Gamet bearings, I also have part numbers for the standard issue Timken bearings which aren't too expensive but I am in New Zealand so they will need to be imported. My bearings seem fine and I'm hoping to reuse but hopefully I get the spindle out today and inspect them. My main issue is wear on some of the gears causing a lot of noise when the machine is run at high speed. Replacement of some gears is the main reason for tearing down the headstock.
@@samuelfielder I managed to get my spindle out using the threaded rod press method, gosh it was scarily tight! My next question is how did you get the rear bearing race back on during reassembly? I am thinking about heating it up a bit in the oven, maybe 80-90C, to give it a bit more clearance. My only worry is that plastic retainer, I don't want to damage it, hopefully it is made with a heat resistant polymer? Did you use heat to install?
@@JeremyYoungDesign I think your rear race must have been tighter than mine. I don't recall a problem getting it back on, but I think heating it to 80 deg C would be fine. The plastic retainer is, I think, only needed to stop the bearing falling apart before it gets into its cup. I think I broke mine (it was brittle) and I just used a rubber O-ring instead.
@@samuelfielder I cleaned the rear bearing carefully in kerosene. Did you ever try offering the bearing cone up to the cup by hand and turning it by hand? Mine feels quite rough, almost like it is full of grit. This had me a bit worried but after a bit of mucking around and adding a bit of oil it seems to have improved. I think perhaps the bearings need some preload and a few rotations to allow the rollers to find their place and roll smoothly??
Very interesting. I enjoy your commentary which explains clearly your thought process. Excellent progress 👏👏👍😀
What is the code part number bearing
in my country i can not find the tipe bearing spindle
All I can say is that the ID is 70mm, the OD is 112.712mm and the overall thickness is 33mm. These are pretty odd dimensions! The XC version indicates a flanged cup, where the outer ring or cup has a flange on it so that it can be driven into a through-bored hole and will still come to rest in the right place.
@@samuelfielder i was measure my lather harrison lathe using vernier caliper just ID 99.7 mm
bearing tail spindle
@@vorezkysianipar2406 Sorry, I gave dimensions for the front spindle bearing. Back one is ID 55mmm, OD 100.0 mm, overall thickness 29.5 mm. Cup flange. I cannot give URLs in these comments as youtube deletes them. If you Google exactly the following
"bearing stocks" gamet super precision tapered roller bearings
you should find a PDF download of the Gamet catalogue 2014. Whether these are still being made is another question.
@@samuelfielder thank you sir. Your machine still noise after teardown?