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All proper modern EV's restrict charging speeds when the battery is too cold. Otherwise, the battery can be damaged. That's what battery preconditioning is all about. If it's super cold, like minus -20 or colder, it might even prevent charging at all until the battery heats up enough to safely proceed. That's why Teslas have cabin preheating and defrost modes (which can be scheduled) in case you don't have a place to plug in overnight.

HI, when considering electricity cost, do you pay for charge at work?

I also suggest with EVs over ten years old you should discuss battery swapping to modern batteries with better chemistry, and more range, no need to dispose of the car. Plus that older EV is more than paid for after ten years.

EVs are also more likely to have aluminum (or other non-steel) body panels, which hold up better to salt and other corrosive elements. If you need an EV to work in the very coldest of conditions (-22F/-30C) plan on it getting 50% of its advertised range during cold-soak conditions. Preconditioning will improve this, but not always possible when coming from work.

Glad to see this old 24 kWh Leaf still doing the job in this extreme cold. Personally, I never would go out in these conditions without some reserve energy. A used 30 kWh or 40 kWh Leaf would do the job nicely.

I just don’t want my ev to burn down my house while it’s charging

The rear seat mechanical emergency escape door latch is notoriously difficult to work in a Tesler

Excellent video! 🍻 Looking forward to seeing a -40 video in late January. 😁

Good test video , there was no way you would have made it with the I-Miev .

Brave guy on west side of our country....2 battery bar at -25 and...On The Road Again...., I NEVER TRY THIS WITH MY Leaf......

what do you think of the adaptors to use CC to CHAdeMO and will it affect warranty with Nissan and what one if I was to buy would you buy

I found a trick to home charging that seems to speed things up in cold Edmonton. When heading home either in FSD or manually, I'll pretend that my next stop is a super charger. This preconditions the battery for at least the initial charging.

On some EV's, the rate of battery heating is limited by the rate of the EV charger (e.g. 3 kW EVSE limits battery heating to 3 kW). So in cold winter climates, you actually wanna have a decent size EVSE that can do at least 5 kW. I recommend getting a >40A EVSE installed in Canada. Plugging in every night regardless of charge level is also important advice.

It has to be kept plugged in every night as per Tesla manual. Just replaced one of my Audi sport models with an S. On the app I have to warm it up for 10 minutes before I leave or the regen will not work at all. I found that out the first morning. Regen also does not work if you charge to 100 percent. The winter range is only about a third of the max which is very disappointing. In summer I might get 75. I also noticed at highway speed the car just coasts and the regen works at lower speeds.

Good info for new EV drivers. Especially important for apartment dwellers that rely on superchargers for all of their charging, and when taking road trips in below freezing weather. Besides Teslas, other EVs that have LFP batteries may also not charge below freezing (0 C). I do have newer Teslas, but it doesn't get that cold where I live, only -10 to -20 deg C a few times per year. I plug in every night and charging starts when needed to complete by 6 AM. This provides a warmer battery when I leave, and a lower SOC over time profile for better battery life. If it takes a while to heat the battery first, it is done automatically while I am sleeping. I do love the power meter on the older Model S. My 2015 had a smaller meter, not as well labeled and harder to get a precise reading. My Model 3 and Y just have a thin green (regen) and black (power) strip, with no kW numbers. It is super hard to read, but does show unavailable regen and power when cold with a dotted line. Seeing your Model S makes me want to search for a nice clean example and buy it for driving around town. 😀

Driving in "B" mode?

Still have an mev Mitsubishi 2012. Still get 80 miles range. Run it till it dies.

Their handling of the EV-1 is why GM will have to work very hard to convince to buy one of their offerings.

MINUS 30! REGULAR. AVERAGE . DRIVING?? My eyeballs are freezing over just watching this! 🥶

Would be interesting perhaps comparing to 24kwh models too given different data

Thanks for the video. Had a little chuckle seeing you doing with your car what I do with me electric mountain bike after commuting to the office.

What temperature was the garage that held the car overnight?

Are you using anything special for the EVSE, or just the Nissan supplied cable?

Great video! It demonstrates how even a minimal cost used EV works fine for commuting in extremely cold weather. Limited range is taken care of by 120 V charging at work, using widely available block heater plugs. There *should* be no gas driver envy issues ("where is my free gas?) since they also use the plugs. Inexpensive car + inexpensive off-peak charging at home + free charging at work + minimal maintenance = Win for EV commuting 😎

Is -26°C not relatively unseasonally warm?

Brrr -26 that's c-c-cold bro'. Say, Do you use km rather than miles all across Canada or is that just Quebec? 30-40 miles every working day that's like me driving from here in North Berwick to Edinburgh something I haven't done for 2 years since I sold my 3 litre 'S-type' Jaguar which had been hardly driven at all, through the Covid Lockdown, and me being retired and aged 80. My best place is in my man cave, well wrapped up, and a good supply of hot strong coffee.

First winter with my Leaf 2015....and only -10c here , and i find my GOM drop faster then yours. By chance im retired now, so at -30c a dont need to go out...:)

Very clear and helpful for me (2019 Leaf). Thanks

The warmer a battery gets the more capacity you get out of it. So naturally when you quick charge your car, sometimes multiple times and warm up the battery, the car thinks SOH went up a bit when it didnt. L1/2 it for a week and it will drop back to where it was.

If you don't drive much keep your car between 50% and 70% Do DeBadge to remove any indication of an EV to reduce the chances of coal rolling and keying

Number of QC and Battery heat cycles is probably a bigger factor than age and km. Interresing formula, but think it is not accurat without QC numbers into it. Have you tried to see how the math works out if you take the number of charges and the number of QC into the equation? Is the leafspy SOH calculated, or is it the BMS that is measuring it?

There's no buffer on the top or bottom. Quit spreading misinformation. As you can see from Leafspy yourself the car charges to 4.2v./cell and will discharge to 3v/cell. That is the min/max for these cells. *There is no "buffer"*

Official net capacity is 59kWh, so having 58 after 4 years is 98,3% SOH - pretty spectacular!

Some one has already mentioned climate but I if a car has done a short distance but sat on the drive way at 100% for most of its life, is a big degradation factor. Also the 30 kWh battery was a bit of a disaster. Interesting video. Thanks.

I wonder if they were all used in the same are, experiencing the same climate?

hello...my car is late 2015 with 86,313km , your formula give me estimate a 74.36%...and real is 81.82%....

I think You’re going to lose your first bar very soon 😢. Maybe take into consideration that your car BMS was reset and/or the odometer was rewritten before You had bought the car. Our 2016 LEAF has 107k km in it and has 1700ish L1/L2 charges. Timed charging counts two L1/L2 charges and we had some… I think too much charges for 9000…

I've got the kind of the same issue like you, thanks for your Video. I presented the Error to my nissan dealer, he said, that i need to get a new Frontwindow camera for about 2'400 Dollars . But for me, it looks more like kind of a Sofware-Problem. Have you found a Solution in the while time? Would be great...

Limiting charge between not less than 20% and not more that 80%. Using fast charging less or only when essential. Should prolong the battery health. Regards the miles however battery will degraded slowly over time ( chemical ageing)

I agree that "electric car catches fire" gets news organizations more clicks than "300 cars caught fire today, same as every other day." I remember when people were more afraid of car fires, back in the 1960's. Nowadays people don't give it a second thought, except when new technology is involved. Similar is how the risk of serious injury or death in general when traveling by car is just accepted, with about 50,000 deaths every year in the US.

Find a shop (not Nissan) that will work on or replace the battery on the LEAF you are buying 1st. Then send the EV to them and let them do their thing and pay them. If you cannot find a shop near you that can do this sort of thing, then buy a 2020 or more recent Nissan LEAF with an active battery warranty.

Could you talk about your thoughts on the CC1 to Chademo adaptors Please and the cc1 to Tesla supercharger with the Chademo adaptor Please

I don't own an EV and now that I am retired I may never purchase one. I recently bought a new SUV which is gas powered. I live in Canada and a gas powered vehicle is both comfortable and convenient. I typically use less than a tank of fuel per month, so an EV wouldn't provide significant cost savings in my situation. I travelled to China last year and I saw, and rode around in, a number of EVs that I liked. Even though I live in Canada, it would be fun to have an inexpensive EV as a second car for running around the city. During the cold winter months, I would just keep it in my garage. Unfortunately, it looks like the Canadian government will probably put high tariffs on Chinese made EVs, so I would have to give the government a lot of money in order to have the pleasure of purchasing one for myself.

Not sure that would work on my 2015 Leaf that has 78,000 miles. Yours has just not been used much.

Also, what impact can this observation with these Nissan Leaf models have in there potential applicability to say high mileage other models like the 2023 Kia Nero EV and 2022 Chevy Bolt EUV,

Hi I have a 2017 84% SOH 45000 miles 317 QC 850 ACC

I don't like this idea I have had my Bolt for about eleven months but I only have driven around 1800 miles I was thinking that I would have slowed the battery degradation 😢 I do though know that lithium batteries degrade when stored fully charged or fully drained and that it is better to store them at the 66% to 75% range So I keep my battery between 50% to 70% being that I can go three days without driving and when I do it is only a few miles, less than ten

The worse thing is not having the battery be liquid cooled. That's why the Leaf is the poster child for degradation and the one used by anti-EV Luddites to spread misinformation. Which is what Nissan intended. Not all Leafs, of couse, but a large portion of them. Nissan never cared for EV's. It was only Carlos Ghosn. Which is why they got rid of him.

I bought a new ‘23 Bolt EUV because of it’s features like ventilated seats, large cabin area, and moderate 3700 lb, 1670 kg weight. I drive 100 miles round trip most days, and the car already is out of the body warranty. I wanted an EV for my wife, and considered a used leaf. My only issue was the charging. She ended up with a ‘23 EUV like mine- except it has all the options. Mine lacks the sunroof, Bose speakers, and supercruise. She really doesn’t drive very far to work, and if it hadn’t been for the charger differences, we’d have a Leaf. The older Bolts had terrible seats, and I despise vehicles with large triangle windows behind the A pillar. I’ve never driven one where this didn’t cause visibility issues that you had to learn to deal with. I actually wanted a used Lucid Air, but most I saw online were from hurricane areas that I couldn’t trust a few months ago. My only fear is the availability of suspension parts in the near future- specifically loaded struts. I had planned to replace struts and springs at the same time, and that’s still possible, but only if I buy all the parts separately.

The charging behavior between the two is not logged well enough to make a good comparison. (How many time was the battery deep discharged below 20% , and 10%, and 5/% SOC, and how many hours did it remain there). Additionally, number of hours spent at +105F.