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This is very cool. We have the exact same model. It is in great condition but the battery has only 6 bars. Guess o meter shows about 70kms on a good day so it is still a very usable vehicle around our town. I was about to invest multi thousands in a new bigger battery, but I might hang on a bit longer until battery prices come down further, and keep my Leaf Spy handy.

How fast were your driving?

Good video, It's nice to know that the newer batteries will depreciate less and with newer technology and a better understanding of how to look after them things will get better.

Hx value is very low, as soon as you put strain on the battery it probably cant handle it well. By just driving 40mph you are not putting alot of strain to it. Drive 60 mph and see how far you will get. Probably the fast charging is very slow compared to factory values. Also when the battery needs to work harder you will see an increase in battery cell difference in leafspy.

Manufacturers should set 100% to be the maximum level the battery can take without risking degradation (same as 80% today in most cars). But still allow the owner to enable "Trip Boost", "Road Trip Mode", "Overcharge", "Extended Range Mode" to allow you to charge to 125% when you need it. I think that would make communicating this easier to customers.

Thanks for the great video and your perspective. I apologize if I missed it. I think that the original range was approximately 115 miles. That’s roughly ~49% of the original range after 12 years. My foggy memory is telling me that some 2012 LEAFs had a range of maybe 86 miles then this LEAF would have kept approximately ~67% of its original range. Thanks to you and other channels I have modified my battery longevity protocol slightly and basically keep my average state of charge at ~40% instead of my default 60%. If memory serves what some battery chemists are saying is to make these new adjustments to get a longevity bump from an expected 400,000 miles to an expected 800,000 miles. I’ll never live that long but I’m an obsessive curious guy. Thank you 🙏

why does last car say model s and others are sv what difference does that make?

Had a 2012 Leaf for seven years. Zero problems and no maintenance required. We moved away from the big city so my wife decided we needed something with more range so replaced it with a used 2017 Volt. We also got a new Tesla MS60 in 2013 which we still have. Our Leaf had the solar panel which only charged the 12 volt battery. It lost the first bar on the battery by the time we sold it so had about 100km range in perfect conditions at 50000km. I would have kept it but the wife was afraid of the Tesla so wouldn't drive it for the longer trips. I've since convinced her to take the Tesla when the range is required to save gas on the Volt so we could still be using the Leaf 😂

The red lines are the battery cells currently undergoing cell balancing.

Red means "not balanced" I believe.

Trailer queen for a whole different reason 😅

Thanks 🙏🏽 for the great channel I think we as a society need to really differentiate between “range anxiety” and the tendency just being OCD. (Unreasonably paranoid) Simple arithmetic and internet planning should lay to rest any such feelings of distress. With my plug-in Prius I was more concerned through my OCD with charging than with any real range anxiety. My LEAF does give reason for some range anxiety but again my real range anxiety for this vehicle fuels my research and planning for any trip. The Y on the other hand does all my planning for me. Electrify America has left me more than disappointed many times with the LEAF but my other two vehicles it was just a minor inconvenience. Once upon a Time, I started to believe that the Electrify America network was in place to undermine feelings of EV travel being anxiety free. For the area I live in ChargePoint is the best in terms of reliability, not in terms of charging speed. Thanks for the great channel. Also most range anxiety exists in the people that don’t own EVs and are unable to fathom the preplanning required to own an EV. They are the biggest critics yet don’t understand what they are criticizing.

I traded in my 16 sv on a 19 s plus. The s plus is now at 97,000 miles I've only super charged 3 times. Still at 12 bars no noticeable loss of range after 4 years

MYLR no range anxiety

The 1st and 2nd cars scream to me of owners who kept them "topped up" to 100%; I own a 2016 Kia Soul and my battery SOH at 40,000 is ~96.8%; it has been stable at that level for most of the 2 years*, and ~9,000 miles I have owned it; it gets a 20-80% charge when needed, usually every 7-10 days; and a 100% trickle charge for cell balancing, once per month. It gets rapid charged when needed; this last weekend I drove 290 miles and it had 3 rapid charges, 2x to 80% and a top up 40 to 55%, as there were no rapid chargers near my destination; and I wanted a little in reserve in case the destination chargers were OOS (they were semi-functional - giving 3KW out of a claimed 22KW capability (car charges at 6.4KW from ac). I have done trips of over 400 miles with 5 rapid charger stops in a single day. *Car was delivered with 94.2% SOH, having been sat on a garage forecourt for over 6 months; but quickly jumped to 96,2% after a cell balance, and has crept up as high as 96.9% this summer.

Not sure I trust the tester. You need to get an identical tester and a competitors tester and compare. It's not science unless it's repeatable.

I would compare the charging kWh to the tesla usage for comparison purposes. Very interesting and great news about the car.

Hoovies buys alot of crap cars. This car he sold to Car Wizard who is in the process of fixing it for under 1k. It did requite reaching out to a niche shop overseas to get it resolved. Wish the shops on our aide would accelerate this part of the business.

Hoovie's whole schtick is bleeding money. He's a really bad source of car information. A whole lot of car channels seem to have hit on EV FUD. Mostly with nonsense claims that are BS on the surface.

I really like how you organize your thoughts on your channel. I bought my first EV (22 Leaf SV+) in January and I've enjoyed it so far. Look forward to seeing your future work.

Did you do the coolant bypass on the LDU? If not, google it.

Get three cars and collect data every x mile over their life so you have some graphs that give you life cycle data. There is no ability to do statistical analysis on three end point data points that are at variable distances and times. This is exactly why it takes a research facility with much deeper pockets to get good data.

“I happen to have a third one” just got to love rhat

Well gas prices affect what you pay for everything so you aren't completely insulated.

Car 1 got 1 charge every 10 days or was left plugged in for long periods Car 2 got 2 charges per day Car 3 got 1 charge per day and was driven more

Thanks for the great channel 🙏🏽 I charge my Tesla model Y at 6A because my commute to work is 7.2 miles roughly. This is less than half of a 15 amp outlet except that I met 240 V because I’m using a 100 amp level two Tesla charger and it’s wired for 100 amp. The most that I could ever pull off of. It is 80 A from a model S or X and the most I ever pull with my model Y is 48 A, but 90% of the time I pull at 6 A and this is why I tell people it’s possible to never need a level two charger depending on your personal circumstances. I am fortunate because my Tesla model Y gives me the option to choose the amperage, and my power company sadly does not have peak and off peak rates.. thanks again for the great channel. I really appreciate all your hard work.👍😁👌🏾

Don't let the battery drop below 20% and don't charge above 80%

So when do you charge? I guess it when you get to a low percentage is that not what everybody does.

New EV owner TYL. Good choice for me

As with most batteries, the ideal state of charge is 50% for longevity. It's like if you leave your laptop plugged in 90% of the time - you want to set it to 50% max SOC, and if you plan to use it unplugged, then you charge it higher that day before you unplug it.

These three are all groundbreaking iconic autos. The iMIEV was the first, and more significant than most people recognize. The iMIEV pioneered the concept of both AC and DC charging, AC at home and destinations, and DC to travel longer distance. It also was designed to exceed the performance of its (660 cc) gas equivalent. I am guessing you bought the 2012 Leaf. I bought its main rival, the Chevrolet Volt, in February 2011. I was able to do almost all of my in-town driving on electric. The gas engine only ran once ever 6 weeks for "engine maintenance mode," using 0.07 gal of fuel each time. I also used the engine to go on road trips, then plugged in at my destination to drive electric there.

Stop and go traffic represents multiple partial recharges. I couldn't tell if the stats included those.

I believe heating the battery too much matter: DC charging in wormer climates for air cooled battery is worse. AC charging doesn't heat the battery much. However, bringing the state of charge to higher percentage, keeping there longer is detrimental. Number of AC charging sessions doesn't matter as long as it is kept under 70%. If charged to 100% the car should be driven immediately. I prefer to charge to 50%, never discharge below 30%, avoid DC charging, keeping in the shade in summer, garaged overnight when it is the coldest.

Several factors come to mind: The highest mileage car is also 1 year younger than the other two. Age of the battery is reckoned to affect state of health. Battery technology might also be different in the three cars; the cells could have been made in different factories. The two higher mileage cars don't have much difference in SOH. And you have no idea about depths of discharge, actual recharging speeds, storage and recharging temperatures, or how each driver's style has affected their cars.

Hopefully you bought the Leaf :). Great video, electric cars have come a long way, amazing how well the Tesla has aged, also amazing Nissan let the Leaf get so far behind.

What's going on here is a chemical process not a mechanical one it's not predictable in the same manner. Chemical reactions are natural and thusly are unique for each ine in and of itself. Being made up of many slightly differing battery cells, every battery pack own nature and it will age differently from another.

Laughs in turbo diesel

I just sold my 2015 Leaf with 11 bars above 92% (showed 12 bars below 92%) at 105,000 kms. Range was still 130 kms. The number of charges means virtually nothing. Leaving empty or full is totally destructive. I always kept the SOC between 20-80 and I balanced all cells twice a year by driving to below 5%, then slow charge to 100%, then drive to 80%.

Leafs have a. 80% stop charge function peogramable...can you see which ones were set or not?? DoD BETWEEN 75 AND 40% was found do give the most cycles vs. degrigation by some studies...

Tesla buries the guess-o-meter on the energy screen. The mileage number next to the battery icon is "rated range," which is the range on the EPA test cycles, roughly the same as at constant 55 mph in good weather. Each mile of rated range is equivalent to a fixed Wh of energy capacity, which depends only on what Tesla model and tire configuration you have. I used rated miles for several years, knowing I would use less than one rated mile per actual mile in city driving, and more than one rated mile per mile of highway driving. That way I could keep track of degradation in battery capacity, estimated by the BMS, by noting the rated miles at 100% charge. However, these estimates change depending on how often you charge to 100% and run the battery down to low SOC (<10-20%). I switched my display to show % SOC, and never went back. Easier and less stressful than using rated miles and tracking degradation. Degradation never will affect my daily driving, and hasn't affected my road trip driving either. I just charge whenever I stop for something else and the car is always ready to continue before I am.

its always people like you that buy this crap

30 kWh Lithium-ion Battery Controller (LBC) in 2016-17 model year LEAF vehicles. Nissan data gathering has shown the vehicle’s driving range gauge and Lithium-ion battery capacity level gauge may indicate a range/capacity that is lower than the actual amount due to a design issue associated with an improper capacity calculation. This error results in an understated remaining charge and driving distance available. Reprograming the 30 kWh Lithium-ion Battery Controller (LBC) with updated software will remedy the SOH and capacity.

isn't there a good chance that thw quick charge is being done to about 80% because they needed the car 'quicker' and the last 80% take too long, whilst thew slow charge is probaly overnight so being charged to 100%?

One thing id recommend to anyone lookig to just level 1 charge: get a circuit finder take some time to identify what circuits all of your outlets in your home belong to. Unless you are an electrician too much for the electrician that has either done the work for you or done to work for previous owners or contractors who are participated in flipping a home, have done it properly. Bootleg grounds are notorious and if you come across 1, get very careful about using it and make sure the ground isnt powered.

I've not yet installed an outlet for my level 2 EVSE. Prices to install one ranges from $700-$1600 and with the lower price I have to deal with cantankerous electricians when I ask if they'll be using a GFCI breaker or installing an industrial 15-40. For now, Level 1 gets me 10% overnight drawing 11a from the outlet. I use level 2 at work and that can get me 40-50% while I'm there and rotating the spots with others in the building. I've also used plug share to identify chargers in all the places I frequent often, and have registered with every app in the process. Doing this casually will help when I really need to charge since registering is a big pita.

My experience with Chademo chargers is somewhat different. Over the last 5 years I have done a little over 100 fast charges. I can only remember 5 times when I pulled up to a charging station where none of the chargers were working (twice they were actively being worked on, and hence powered down, twice there was no sign of any power going to the stations at all, once both stations on site faulted as soon they started the pre-charge tests). That said, there were a few times where only 1 of the multiple chargers on a site was working. I guess that comes to at most a 10% failure rate. Mind you, that's still pretty bad compared to the Tesla network.

I don't have a EV, but have a couple phev and I just keep in mind the full real usable range and convert in my head the 10% amount. I'm kind of assuming that it'll be similar for real EV

I use the Guess-O-Meter as a game like tool to see how high I can get the total estimated range, both in city driving and on the hwy during road trips. I know it's not accurate but it's fun just to see if I drive efficiently just what I can accomplish.

It is a fluctuating rough guess that I only use as a rough guide. Fun to get into stop and go traffic after a high-speed drive and watch the guess-o-meter click up.

I only use the percentage gauge because of the reasons you listed plus it’s just easier for my little brain to deal in percentages. Thanks for the great channel