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Sgt Vance
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 16 ก.ค. 2012
I've started uploading reviews of gear that I use and have had experience with. I wanted to start filling in the gaps that some reviews/demonstrations on youtube didn't cover. I'm not an expert in a lot of the topics I review but unless I say so I have tested the items to what I feel is the practical use for them. I am not sponsored or paid by anyone to use this gear and I will try to give you my honest opinion of it. If I reference other channels its because they have give me insight or opinions that I can base my judgment off of. The channel is also a place for me to save and keep track of projects and things I like. Hope you enjoy!
M1A Accuracy Testing 2
Same day, same rifle. In this video I have some PMC X-Tac 147gr FMJ and Aguila 150gr FMJ Boat Tail out of the M1A with the aftermarket wooden stock modification.
I have enough footage for one more video I think. Thanks for watching!
I have enough footage for one more video I think. Thanks for watching!
มุมมอง: 173
วีดีโอ
M1A Accuracy Testing
มุมมอง 200หลายเดือนก่อน
Starting a new series off of accuracy testing on different rifles. Today is the M1A, after installing the aftermarket used stock with Winchester White Box M80 149gr FMJ. Hope you enjoy, I have more videos I'm editing in the works! Thanks for watching.
M1A Stock Swap
มุมมอง 6182 หลายเดือนก่อน
Howdy all. After some moving around again I'm back with another armature "gunsmith" video. In this video I'm taking a used wooden stock and new wooden hand-guard from Liberty Tree Collectors, and inletting for the recoil spring guide retainer pin and the forward hand guard clamp. A very simple project to get the M1A looking better (IMO). Enjoy!
Finally M1A!
มุมมอง 87611 หลายเดือนก่อน
Probably about 5 years of searching and I finally got my hands on an M1A that wasn't over 1500.00. Thanks for watching.
Circle Stencil Print
มุมมอง 77ปีที่แล้ว
In this video I go through all the steps to designing and printing a simple stencil. I have no formal training on any of the processes, I'm self taught (if you cant tell haha) by trial and error. This is anything from short but its how I do the process, look for a shorter video of designing and production of these simple prints. As always thanks for watching.
AR 10 Shim Kit
มุมมอง 850ปีที่แล้ว
The AR10 build continues with correcting the play between the upper and lower. These shim kits from www.Triggershims.com are the exact thing I've been looking for. After finding out the shims I ordered from Brownells were incorrect for my application I found these. If your looking for a permanent solution in the wobble between your upper and lower reciever's take a look into these products from...
Getting Better @ Shooting
มุมมอง 21ปีที่แล้ว
As the title states I'm going to start devoting time to getting better at shooting with the gear that I have on hand. Its been a long time since I last attended any shooting events and I want to get back into it. The perfect time for me to train up is now with the weather cold and rainy I might as well practice inside. I look forward into posting videos regularly again with hopes of getting bac...
Power Custom AR-15 Shims
มุมมอง 909ปีที่แล้ว
I picked this AR upper receiver shim kit from Brownells to take the lateral slop out of the new AR10 build. Not much information was posted on the page and I didn't look any further trusting in what was available at the time. I discuss it in further but short story is that the ID is too small for the OD of the DPMS pattern AR10 lower take down pins. I can however use these in an AR-15 or two I ...
Laser Cut Collapsible Camping Rocket Stove
มุมมอง 5953 ปีที่แล้ว
Laser Cut Collapsible Camping Rocket Stove
SkinnyMedic Backpack Bleeding Control Kit Opening
มุมมอง 1783 ปีที่แล้ว
SkinnyMedic Backpack Bleeding Control Kit Opening
SkinnyMedic FATPack 5x8 Large First Aid Kit Opening
มุมมอง 5983 ปีที่แล้ว
SkinnyMedic FATPack 5x8 Large First Aid Kit Opening
Not Your Typical M&P Shield Malfunction Follow-up
มุมมอง 1813 ปีที่แล้ว
Not Your Typical M&P Shield Malfunction Follow-up
Not Your Typical M&P Shield Malfunction
มุมมอง 2044 ปีที่แล้ว
Not Your Typical M&P Shield Malfunction
The mossberg doesnt have any of the cons you mentioned
As far as overly worrying about hang-fires, do not forget to stay off of air planes and do not travel in cars because accidents do happen you know. One can get caught on fire fueling their car. And forget sky diving or bungy cord jumping right? Or riding motor cycles for that matter. Oh and I hear people choke on their food too, so better not eat anything either. And the leading cause of death is medical malpractice so never go to the doctor! So you might think that if one just stays in bed they would be safe, but doing that one could get blood clots that can kill them also. So best just be glad you are alive and live a little while your at it. Anyway, old deteriorated powder, moist powder, low powder charges, primers that where not stored properly, (cheap) low quality primers, and or overly crushed primers can all cause miss fires, squib loads, and hang fires. Be sure to treat them all as if they were hang-fires though. Best way to avoid these is to reload your own ammo, and use quality primers. Also do not use old powders, and be sure and visually inspect each powder charge. Plus crimp the cases to the bullet, as this will give the powder more time to start burning good before the bullet moves which would cause more usable case volume of which wouldn't allow the powder to build up its pressure for the powder to burn correctly right off the bat. The hang fires cased by a very small charge are normally brought on by the use of a powder measurer/dispenser and static electricity bridging the powder charge in the drop down spout as to only dump a small amount into the case that went unnoticed and a bullet was seated. The primer pushes the bullet out of the case, and the low powder charge then has too much room to build pressure immediately, so it burns slowly until the pressure builds up and then the charge will start to burn faster to the point it will either spit the bullet out or lodge the bullet further down bore. This is why I never recommend the use of a progressive press with an on-board powder thrower, as this type of set-up is responsible for both squib loads and hang fires, as well as guns blowing up. The guns that get blown up are the ones that got the powder that was hung in the measurer, due to static electricity bridging the powder in the down spout, from a previous squid loaded round so that it ends up with an over charge. Yes one of the rounds in a squib load's batch could very well be one that literally blows the gun apart. Most people that end up with a bad round will spend time disassembling the rest of the batch, be it a few, hundreds, or even thousands of rounds, for safety sake. A lot of time spent that they tried to save by using a progressive press in the first place. Then they have to turn around and remake the rounds a second time, of which if done again in the same manner of using a progressive press with and on-board powder measurer may very well end up needing to be re-disassemble all over again if static electricity rears it's ugly head this go around too. A vicious cycle. There is a business that sells replacement powder hopper that are made of Pyrex instead of plastic which should by all means stop any static electricity from building up on the powder in the hopper so that powder bridging in the drop down portion should be a thing of the past. Personally I am getting one, as static electricity is a Handloader's nightmare. DRAM WORX - Pyrex Replacement Hoppers. Oh, and replace the plastic down spout with a metal one too. Personally, I will not run a progressive press because of all the safety checks they cheat us out of. I run all my brass through one step at a time on a single stage press, with hands on every step. This gives me plenty of time to catch cracks/split cases, primer hole issues, primer seating issues, bullets seating issues, and crimp problems. If anything is out of whack the brass gets reworked or trashed. As for powder I weigh every charge! I use a powder thrower to dispense powder into the scale pan, a trickler to round off the charge weight on a beam scale, and then I set the pan onto a digital scale as a double check. If the two scales do not agree I recheck the beam scale poises and re-zero the digital scale. Normally it is the digital scale that has drifted, but once it was a beam scale poise got moved by accident. Either way all my powder charges get checked three times. Twice by scales and once with a visual, in the loading block, after I have charged a batch before seating bullets. I do what I do for safety, not speed, cause as the old saying goes "SPEED KILLS!" And I encourage all to not find out the hard way. The progressive press can cause all three dangers no matter what powder one uses. It is the ones that use progressive presses that have these squib loads, hang-fires, and double charges, and put bystanders at risk of injury or death. And when some one gets hurt it will not be considered an accident but rather reckless conduct with a firearm or involuntary manslaughter! If you are going to reload you need to take responsibility and check every powder charge! Personally I weigh each charge on a beam scale, double check them on a digital scale, and last but not least I do a visual check before seating bullets. This routine if followed religiously will negate all squib loads, hang-fires and double charges by 100%. Safety should always be the #1 priority when reloading, not rushing through the process to save time! "Basic Handloading" by George C. Nonte Jr. page 43: "Use of an adjustable powder measure will greatly speed up the operation." page 45: "If you discover an error after forty or fifty rounds have been completed, there may be no way to identify the cartridges that contain the error." "Usually, a charge that bulks abnormally high or low will do so at the expense of the charge thrown immediately before or after it. A light charge in the case might mean that some powder remained in the drop tube, and so was probably added to the next charge thrown; an overcharge probably indicates that powder hung up in the drop tube from the pervious charge, making it less than it should be." "If it seems that I'm dwelling overmuch on powder charging, remember that this is the most critical of all the handloading operations to safety. You'll get no joy or profit from handloading if a mistake or an oversight causes a gun to be wrecked or a shooter to be hurt. Handloading is essentially a very safe practice, provided one adheres to the basic safety requirements and concentrates on the job at hand." Robert A. Rinker also tells the same thing as above in his book titled "Understanding Firearm Ballistics 6th Edition.
In the Lee manual, on page 37, it states: "Bullets seated deeper than normal will reduce case capacity and increase pressure. This is not too critical for large rifle cases, but extremely important for pistol loads. Good load data specifies bullet seating depth or over all cartridge length. Do not seat the bullet to deep. On page 96, of the Lee manual, under the section of “The Latest Information On Pressure”, it states: "2) the extreme expansion (XTP and Gold Dot) handgun bullets have a large and deep nose cavity that makes them longer than a regular bullet of the same weight. This requires deeper depth resulting in higher pressure. Seating depth is very critical for handgun ammunition because of the small cases and large bores. ... … The usable volume of … … … the 45 ACP is 1.14cc. Seating bullets 1/16” deeper … .. … reduces the volume … 0.16cc for the 45 ACP. That’s ... ... ... a whopping 14% ... . This large volume reduction has an equally large effect on pressure that is made more critical because the maximum pressure for the 45 ACP is 1/3 of [plus 60,000 pound range as mentioned below. Keep in mind the 45 Colt working pressure is a mere 14,000 psi.] … On page 157, of Lee's manual under "Minimal Overall Length", It states: This is critical on most handgun cases. A small reduction in overall length can cause dangerous pressures because of reduced capacity caused by seating the bullet too deep. See details on page 96." On page 133, of the "Complete Reloading Guide", under "Loads For Handgun Cartridges", in bold font right under the heading it states: Loads for handguns ... with less case capacity ... when loading ... ... ... mere tenths of a grain of powder can make the difference between a good load and one that is dangerous. Approach the loading of handgun ammunition with these facts in mind." Plus on pages 88 thru 89, of the Lee manual, under "Signs Of Excessive Pressure" is a list of seven pressure signs and then the manual states the following: "It must be emphasized that these signs will not manifest themselves in ... low pressure rounds. These are signs of pressure in the plus 60,000 pound range. If you are loading for a gun designed to operate at 15,000 pounds pressure, you will most likely never find a loose primer because the gun would have blown up and spread the primer and gun parts over a wide area." And on page 158, of the Lee manual, in the section of “How To Read The Load Data”, under “XTP” it states : “Use these loads for the Hornady XTP, Speer Gold Dot, or Remington Golden Saber bullets. Now on page 270, of the Lee manual, under the “250 grain XTP” it gives load data with three different seating depths, because the data was taken from three different brand bullets, yet clumped together as if one. So if someone where to take the data developed for the shorter bullet and turn around and used it with the longer bullet they could very well raise pressures far above the 10% reduced starting charge weight. Especially if they use a case with smaller case capacity than that used in the development of the load data, as well as a hotter brand primer than that which was used to develop the data in the first place. Keep in mind that just changing the brand of primer can cause as much as a 2,000 psi rise in pressure alone, which can by itself swallow up the safety margin. Then throw in a case that has a reduced volume than the tested one and on top of all that seating the wrong bullet father in to the case, because it has a deeper hollow point and thicker cooper jacket, than what was used to developed the load data could easily displace the primer into one's own eye - so to speak. Or another way to put it would be as written in the book "Ammunition, Demystified" (page 17-18): War Stories #1 "I used loading data from one manufacturer for the equivalent weight bullet made by a different manufacturer. I picked a starting propellent load based on the projectile weight I was loading. I fired two previous shots without much apparent problem. After the third shot, imagine my surprise when I dropped the lock block on my Ruger no.1 and found the whole primer, cup and anvil, missing! I immediately ceased shooting that ammunition and rifle until I got the rifle taken apart, inspected for various and sundry loose metal pieces from the primer, and successfully put them back together. The ammunition was broken down, never to be fired in that particular arrangement again. I know I do not want to do that again! While the bullet weight is an important factor in selecting the powder type and weight for your firearm, the ability of the bullet to engrave by the rifling (think of friction and radial stiffness) also dramatically affects the peak pressure a given powder load will attain. Use only the loading data published by the bullet manufacture! Substitution of loading data for equivalent weight bullets can get you into deep yogurt!" And I know for a fact that other manuals have stated not to switch brands of bullets even if they are of the same type. I would post them here if I had the time to wade through 30 different manuals to find where they spoke of such, but I am tired just having to have dug up the above and below. One can head the warnings of reloading or not, but what ever they do they should not teach others to ignore them just because they might so choose. Again, the Richard Lee loading manual does not do pressure tests themselves, they only take test data from others that do and jumble it all together, of which they lose the test barrel length, case brand, primer type and brand, as well as bullet brand. And some 45 caliber bullets are .451" and some are .452" diameter. These are all important elements, as one should never take data made for one specific brand and type bullet and turn and use it with a different brand or type bullet. This is due to Brinell hardness and bearing surfaces can be different, as well as the shape can be slightly different with longer or shorter lengths, all of which can cause extremely high pressure issues. One should only use data straight from a reputable data source [see paragraph below] that does their own pressure testing which give the test barrel length, case brand, primer type and brand, and most of all the brand of the type bullet used in developing the data. Each one of these elements that are changed is a compromise of which if all are compromised at the same time could very well add up to a recipe for disaster. First off, I am not implying that Lee plagiarized the data in their manual, just that they jumbled data from different sources together and lost key elements in the doing. And it has always been a given that one should use the starting loads and work their way up. This 10% reduction covers for smaller bore diameters, different lots of powder, different brand/lots of primers, and different brands of cartridge cases. These alone can take up that 10% relatively easy. Especially in pistol cartridges, as a little goes a long way in such small volume chambers. And the .001" difference in diameter with a stiffer jacket can definitely cause pressure issues when it comes to using load data for one brand bullet [i.e. - the smaller one] and using it for another brand bullet e.g. - the larger one]. Lyman, Speer, Nosler, Sierra, Barnes, Swift, Berger, Norma, Lapua, VihtaVuori, Accurate, Western Powder, Hodgdon, or even Hornady reloading manuals are far better suited than Richard Lee's for gleaning load data from, as they all not only do their own testing but they all give the test barrel length, case brand, primer type and brand, as well as the bullets brand and type for each load recipe. Lyman has most everyone's bullets and many powders too, so it is a good all around manual to get first. Then once one figures a particular bullet they want to use they should get the bullet manufacturer's manual, and try and get the powder manufacturer's manuals that they plan to use as well. Then as one decides to use other manufacturer's bullets and powders they should add these manuals as well. And Lyman also has a Cast Bullet reloading manual for those who wish to cast their own bullets. There are also other reloading manuals that do not pressure test their loading data and those should not be used for load data but can be used to glean information of the reloading process. So once one has all the powder and bullet manufacture's manuals they could continue to add these other manuals for the knowledge in the first half of them (only). Yet again Richard Lee's manual throws out one of the carnal safety rules of "never use load data developed for one brand of bullet for another brand of the same style bullet". Keep in mind that it is always better to throw out Richard Lee's manual than any of the safety rules. But with all that said Richard Lee's reloading manual has a wealth of knowledge in the front half that makes the book well worth having. Just do not ignore the Cautions, Warnings, and Nevers there within.
To crimp, or not to crimp, is not the question, but rather what type of crimp is! 1) ALL cartridges that are to be loaded in revolvers are to be crimped to negate bullet-pull, otherwise the recoil will cause the bullets to pull out of the cases. Whereby locking the cylinder up. Also crimping the rounds helps the powder to build up pressure that is need to help itself burn properly 2) All cartridges to be loaded in a semi-autos are to be crimped to negate bullet set-back, other wise the bullets will get jammed back into the cases due to either the recoil of the gun jamming the magazine against the bullet, or due to the bullet slamming into the feed ramp, and again once it is stopped abruptly in the chamber. Whereby making the rounds not only shorter which could case feeding issues, but also will make them hotter than they should be and could blow a gun up. 3) All cartridges that are to be loaded into a gun that has a tube feed are to be crimped to negate bullet set-back, during recoil as the weight of the bullets atop the others will drive the bullets before them farther into the cases, and will get jammed back into the cases even more so due to the bullet slamming into the feed ramp, and again once it is stopped abruptly in the chamber. Whereby making the rounds not only shorter which could case feeding issues, but also will make them hotter than they should be and could blow a gun up. 4) All cartridges that are to be loaded into a bolt action with a magazine are to be crimped to negate bullet set-back, other wise the bullets will get jammed back into the cases due to either the recoil of the gun jamming the magazine against the bullet, or due to the bullet slamming into the feed ramp, and again once it is stopped abruptly in the chamber. . Whereby making the rounds not only shorter which could case feeding issues, but also will make them hotter than they should be and could blow a gun up. 5) All rounds (regardless of the type of gun they will be used in) that will be getting jostled around in transport should be crimped, other wise they could succumb to bullet set-back. Whereby making the rounds not only shorter which could case feeding issues, but also will make them hotter than they should be and could blow a gun up. 6) Also crimping the rounds helps the powder to build up pressure that is needed for the powder to burn properly. Otherwise if the bullet is spit out of the case, whereby jammed into the rifling, before the pressure can build up adequately enough can cause hang fires as well as blow a gun apart. 7) Last and least of all, the only cartridges that do not absolutely need to be crimped are those that will be hand feed into the chamber one at a time, against paper targets. And if one has a gun that has to be feed by hand, one at a time, that is to be used in any real life situation, such as self-defense, hunting, or perhaps just plain old plinking, should be crimping their rounds to negate bullet set-back due to the bullets getting jostled around in their pockets, etc... And Now I repeat myself, at the risk of being rude, that only people that hand feed their rounds into the chamber one at a time, for the purpose of playing around with paper targets, can afford to bypass the crimping process! And only listen to their advise if you too are plaining on hand feeding your cartridges one at a time into the chamber against paper target. And as for the rest of us, despite the kind of guns that we may have, should always crimp the rounds, period! Lest the inevitable should happen [a.k.a. - Murphy's Law]! Lee's Factory Crimp Dies are the best on the market, and crimping with them has to be done separately from the seating process. To be able to apply a consistent crimp from one case to the next they'll need to be all the same exact length. Hence a case trimmer is a good tool to have. Personally, I look at each case for primer issues first. Then I de-cap the ones that passed and trash the ones that did not. Now I like to sonic clean first, to soften up the crude, and then wet tumble to really get the cases clean. It may not matter on target, but I will clean mine every time anyway. It just makes me feel (mentally) better about the job/process of reloading. Just like wiping my butt after sitting the throne makes me feel (both mentally as well as physically) a whole lot better than if I didn't. If the cleaning solutions are too acidic or alkaline they will literally leached the zinc from the brass leaving only the copper at the surface behind. If so this will weaken the brass. You can get PH test strips to be sure the cleaning solution is balance between 4 and 5 on the acidic side of the PH scale, or between 6 and 7 on the alkaline side of the PH scale for best results. And even then the brass should not be left for hours on end soaking within the solution as time is not on the side of brass when it comes to slowly leaching the zinc from it in such solutions. The following video explains it best: th-cam.com/video/PPqK7yN0-4o/w-d-xo.html Then dry, lube, resize, and flare. Now I run the cases through a vibratory cleaner with crushed walnut shells to remove all lubricant from them so that the powder and primers are not compromised, and as it is not a good thing to have lubricant on the outside of the cases (or inside the chamber) when firing them in the chamber, which would cause excessive slamming of the cases into the breech, of which they (the breech) are not designed to handle. At this point is where I inspect all cases for crack and other issues, again trashing the rejects. Then I prime, add powder, seat bullet, and last but not least crimp. All on a single stage press.
A little bit about different brands and types of primers. Which ones to use, when and why. All CCI and Remingtons primers, plus Winchester's small pistol are the safest to use in automatic priming tools. Federal burns hotter and cleaner, yet are according to the Richard Lee manual "one tough dragon to control in the automatic priming systems". Modern Reloading Second Edition Richard Lee Revised 2021, page 60: To find out why some brand primers explode violently, I talked to an expert, Dave Anderson, now retired from CCI. He told me primers are charged with one of two types of charging compound. One is called "basic" and the other is "normal." The primers that use "basic compound" must not be used in Lee Priming tools because an accidental discharge is very violent. The "normal compound" is less violent and causes little damage to the tool. The user is easily protected by safety glasses. Metallic Cartridge reloading, Robert S. L. Anderson, page 20: In the firearms industry there are two types of lead styphnate primer compounds - "normal" and "basic." There are presently four manufacturers of primers in the U.S., and all of them except one uses the normal lead styphnate primer compound. Federal is the only manufacturer that presently uses basic . The common ingredient to all small arms primers is lead styphnate of which there are several different varieties. Basically it is in crystalline form and is very explosive. Normal lead styphnate is composed of large irregular crystals, which are slightly acidic when wet, somewhat more brisant at lower temperatures (good for military use), and they burn with a cool flame at ambient temperatures. However, it is somewhat harder to get an even mix of components in normal lead styphnate primers because of the larger irregular crystals and the fact that the "mix" often requires some metallic fuels (such as powdered aluminum) to help make a magnum primer. Basic lead styphnate is composed of small regular crystals and unlike the normal mix is not as acidic and will not attack primer cups when wet. Basic lead styphnate is easier to mix than normal variety and there is no need to add metallic fuels. The basic primer flame is very hot and will easily ignite most powders and therefore Federal does not offer a magnum pistol primer. However this style primer is slightly less brisant at very low temperatures (- 20degrees F. to - 40 degrees F.) which would make normal primer more suitable for military purposes. Metallic Cartridge Reloading, All New Third Edition, M.L. McPherson, page 29: Certain brands of primers might be unsafe to use in some priming tools like Lee's AutoPrime because of the potential for mass detonation. With these tools, should an operator detonate one primer, as can happen when a handloader tries to seat one primer on top of another, the detonation subjects other primers in the tray to shock and an incandescent flash. If this shock and flash can detonate a second primer, there is the potential that most or all (perhaps 100 or more) primers in the tray might detonate en masse. Such a simultaneous detonation would be a disaster. Lee has tested all available primers and, excepting CCI and Winchester, all brands produce an unacceptable number of mass explosions when the primer being seated is forced to detonate (by heating in a remote explosion-proof box). By comparing Federal and CCI primers, we can gain some understanding why brands very in this regard. Federal primers do not have a foil covering over the primer pellet; an application of a type of paint replaces the foil. That sealant is easily ignited and highly flammable, possessing a very low kindling temperature. These are beneficial characteristics; among other things, they help reduce combustion residues. However, use of this pellet sealant makes these primers very easy to ignite. Exposure of the open front of the cup to the flash from an adjacent primer easily does the job! Conversely, CCI primers have a paper foil almost completely covering the front of the pellet. This foil deters pellet ignition because it is only moderately combustible and has a relatively high kindling temperature. A short duration flash from a primer is unlikely to ignite the foil or penetrate through it to ignite the pellet underneath.
Metallic Cartridge Reloading, All New Third Edition, M.L. McPherson, page 6: FORWARD ... ... never forget that when handloading ammunition you are dealing with energetic materials and devices capable of bringing great harm and destruction. I am constantly reminded of the dangers primers present. One regional ammunition manufacturer formerly demonstrated this fact to all new employees at the company's annual picnic. At 200 yards, he would set up two targets: one was a company coffee cup with 200 primers in it; the other, two sticks of dynamite hidden behind a similar cup. He would then explode each target with precisely placed shots ... The question the group was to answer: "Which was which..?" And the answer was not obvious! page 29: Primer Safety If there is one area of deep concern, it is safe handling of primers. I don't understand how it happens, but people are always finding ways to set off a primer unintentionally. Stories abound of handloaders, managing to mass explode them. These incidents often involve hand-held priming tools or automatic primer feeds using a tube of stacked primers. The handloader can treat primers with all manner of disrespect, but sooner or later he will pop a primer unintentionally. If that happens to be intimately associated with a large group of primers, the results can be devastating. Even one primer by itself can inflict a severe wound ... page 30: Handle primers with the respect these little bombs deserve and follow all safety precautions provided by the manufacturers. Always wear safety glasses when handling primers.
Now I’ll round out with a few horror stories - {these are not meant to scare you away from reloading but rather to encourage you to always follow all the safety precautions and heed the warnings in the manuals for a safe and long Handloading journey}. Any Shoot Will Do, The A-Square Handloading and Rifle Manual, page 16: Let’s start with guys who didn’t read the safety chapter. All of these are real incidents involving experienced reloaders. #1, A commercial handloader producing handgun cartridges in quantity used to begin his day by filling a coffee can with primers to pour into the machine. He would pull out each tray and, with a flick of the wrist, empty it into the can. One day he used too much flick: one primer went off, initiating a chain reaction that filled the air with shrapnel and cost him both his eyes." [a commercial reloader that thought about how many rounds he had loaded and never had a problem whereby he did not bother with safety or safety glasses, until one day he wished he had taken heed to the warnings, but it was too late by then.] The Complete Handloader, John Wootters, page 37: The Power of Primers Never under estimate the potency of priming compounds. ... a workman at a priming manufacturing facility was carrying a bucket of loose primers ... and the whole bucket detonated. ... they never found any part of the workman except his shoes. An acquaintance of mine had ... about a hundred rifle primers detonate in a plastic medicine vial in his left hand. He lost his hand and the sight in his left eye, and he underwent a series of operations for cosmetic repairs to his face, arm, and upper body, suffering a great deal of pain, a staggering financial setback, and the loss of part of his livelihood. He was a gunsmith. Primer Precautions Such tragedies illustrate the inherent explosive power of small-arms primers, but they can be avoided totally by understanding and adhering to a few simple precautions. The first is never store primers in any kind of container other than the original factory packaging. The second is go back and reread that last sentence several times. Do not keep live primers, however few, loose in any sort of miscellaneous container, and most especially not one made of glass. A fellow TH-camr told a story of hand priming in his Lazyboy chair when one went off. They found the lid to the primer tray stuck in the ceiling above the chair. According to the story it had just missed his face. So be extra sure not to have it aimed at your face when hand priming with these tools. And safety glasses would be a very good idea as mentioned throughout all the reloading manual over and over again!
Probably added 1.5 to 2 lbs of weight though.
@@JC-sj2pd yeah it did but it really helps with felt recoil and takes out a bit of the shakes I get with a light weight rifle.
@@n2dadarknight beauty job tho. I really like the look of a nice walnut stock.
@@JC-sj2pd Yeah, after taking apart the plastic stock I wasn't impressed with the quality. I'm so glad I didn't pay retail for it, and while the rubber butt pad is nice it just looks like garbage to me. Give me wood any day, lol.
Nice tutorial on swapping out stocks.
First
Does the TIPM need to be programmed?
Nope
@@n2dadarknight I did the positive and negative tied together for about :30 and nothing. I read somewhere else it could take 24 hours?
I dont know how your magazine tube slides in and out so easy, mine is so tight I had to turn it back and forth and it took 15 minutes just to get it in. Now it's all scratched up.
@n2dadarknight Do you still happen to have the file you printed it was removed from thingiverse?
Thanks for sharing. Mines 09 too but she started wipers on her own. Lights came on and cluster turned on but no revs. She still starts
@@luisetorres5760 sounds like a likely suspect
The Schuster plug works BUT it has to be adjusted and ammo tested every time you change your load and the bad part is in commercial ammo production loads can change by Lot #. The only thing you can count on is the bullet weight. A much better system is made by GarandGear. They basically have a hollowed out gas plug, much like the one used on an M14 that increases the volume of the gas system and cushions it when hit with the initial pressure wave when firing, that is what will ruin your oprod and increase bolt velocity damaging the receiver. Here is all the data taken from a pressure transducer screwed directly into a GI plug and a GarandGear plug testing two different loads of GI M2 Ball ammo and a dozen commercial loads, bolt velocity taken with high speed cameras is also included and measured. There is a reason the M14 (M1a) went to this modification, it works and there is no adjustment. www.garandgear.com/the-m1-garand-and-commercial-ammunition/
the more knowledge one acquires upon a subject the better their chances at succeeding in that endeavor.
GP-11 used Reloader 17 .........
And a .307 projectile ....
Load of crap. Totally unnecessary.
Maybe, but I don’t remember ever saying it was.
GP 11 bullet diameter th-cam.com/video/smhMTXcu4pk/w-d-xo.html&feature=shared
how do you plan on "permanently" affixing them?
Thanks for watching and the question. So I have not yet, I’m in the process of moving but, I see 3 ways to accomplish this. Cleaning both surfaces and use red or stronger loc-tight, accuglass, or solder are the 3 I’ve pondered but not yet gotten around to. Because the assembly pin secures the shims there is no need to bomb proof them in place, just for opening and closing the upper is really all your securing for.
Is this a better alternative to the accu-wedge?
IMO yes. With the take down pin going through the shims they are secure until removed. The accu-wedge while held down when installed by the upper I feel like over time and exposure to chemicals they can degrade and fall apart. I know I’ve heard of them jamming firearms but I’ve never felt comfortable with installing them into my rifles. The shims could be affixed to the upper lobes with loc-tight, acculglass or even solder but I have not yet tried. In a pinch during rifle qual using range M4s I’ve sandwiched a thin piece of cardboard between the sidewall of the upper and lower receivers but I wouldn’t trust my life to that.
thanks for your time,very helpfull when the need arises
Thanks for making this you are a stud 💪🏼👨🏻
I'm having a fuel pump issue, and I can't seem to find a relay bypass for this specific TIPM. The videos I can find all have a different layout than the one I have. 09 ram 1500 4.7 trx4
7 years later and this helped lol. Appreciate it
Exactly why I started posting videos. Glad to have helped.
Can you tell me the exact measurement of thickness, interior and exterior???
Quite a project so far! How's the re-milling going?
Ey there sarntt. Good find. Love marksman tv, they got surprisingly good prices
All them documents are from Springfield. Comes in the box with a new rifle.
Very cool, thanks for the info. Wondering the story behind these.
How about friend, where can I buy one just like the one I'm interested in?
Would love to have one but refuse to buy anything from those backstabbing bastards
What happened? Not trying to stir the pot, just looking for a little background?
@@n2dadarknight heck I can’t even remember anymore but them rock river and somebody else I think agreed with the state of hellinois on it so it wouldn’t affect them this has been years ago and you know it’s true cause the hellinois gun ban didn’t affect them one bit unlike aero precision they can’t even manufacture firearms
Does anyone know which fuse it it for the headlights I’ve replaced the bulb and the wiring harness I can’t figure out which fuse it is
Is there a disassembly video?
th-cam.com/video/h77AiZUHzpI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ONmnMlTeacysfd1i
What was your symptoms for a bad Tipmi. I have a nice start issue. Was holding key for about 1 min then it would work for a few days. Now nothing. Powers the dash and everything. I replaced battery,starter, ignition module, new key fobs, and break pedal switch
I bought one it takes me 30 minutes to put together so I twisted the tabs over and used fire glue it's rock solid now but before it kept falling apart during assembly
How do you get a 2009 TIPM apart? I've taken out all the fuses and relays and removed the three torx screws. Didn't want to pry too hard on it.
Before I started hand loading, I exclusively shot PPU 6.5x55 out of my Swedish M96s. Great information to know. It’s good plinking ammo for sure, and good brass to harvest. Not many manufacturers produce either 6.5 Swedish or 7.5 Swiss available in the states. But a solid handload in these oddball calibers is a must.
Both videos were very helpful. Thank you.
by any chance do you have the link for the tipm i dont see the exact tipm for the 2009 dodge ram 1500 @sgtvance
Sorry by now it’s long gone. Check all the main stream auto part store’s website, Amazon, and eBay. You may also need to local you pick junckyards. Good luck 👍🏻
Great video by the way
OK it looks like I cannot upload a picture. Please tell me how.
When I pull my TIPM I NOTICED THEY HAD A BLOCK WITH THREE WIRES AND AN OFFSET CONNECTOR. THEY DID NOT GO TO ANYTHING OR DID IT GO TO MY POWER POST FROM THE BATTERY? OR is it an option not used on my vehicle I would like to attach a picture of this if I may. 5:45
awesome videos. Refinishing my BM will now be possible. Thanks very much. Esprit de corps.
I disassembled by Star 3 years ago, with the intention of learning to hot blue. I never got around to it, so the other day I cold blued the frame, slide, and barrel, and put it all back together. This video was INVALUABLE. The only tip I would add is probably just for dummies like myself, but when attempting to put the hammer back on, make sure you have the right sized punch! If you're using a screwdriver that's a little too small, you're in for a MISERABLE TIME, and ultimately FAILURE... OnceI got the proper sized punch, It took me like 30 seconds to get the hammer on.
You recommended against removal of the blind ejector pin. Is it just a bear to deal with, or will I need a special tool to get it back in?
Best of my knowledge blind pins need drilled out, or some nifty welding….Unless you have an issue with your ejector I wouldn’t mess with it.
Do you have the diagram?
The one on the lid?
@@n2dadarknight yes! thank you!
Best video I've seen. Great job man thanks
Great Demonstration! We Appreciate Your Video Presentation, and I will post it on our site 🙂
Super cool, thanks. I’m all about helping people out and and would have never of thought y’all would see this. Thanks again, I still have the Ar-15 shims to install so another video may be due soon.
This is my go-to video series for complete assembly/disassembly of this firearm
Awesome! Glad I could help!
Thank for the link 👍