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😂 ideally I need a container down the garden

It look like it was miss use on my part. I had been disconnecting it when it should have been connected. And when I did have it connected I would get a whine. I got this with the replacement one. Then discovered I had a bad ground. So current was likely flowing the wrong way somewhere on the DC DC converter. If there is a TH-cam channel that wants to do a tear down video I would be happy to send it into them. They can run a little warm but they are not worked hard in a stationary setting. They can deliver 200a in the car and you’ve also got the AC to DC charger onboard which we are not using. I’m not smart enough to know which components were damaged and what lead through to the final outcome.

It look like it was miss use. I had been disconnecting it when it should have been connected. And when I did have it connected I would get a whine. I got this with the replacement one. Then discovered I had a bad ground. So current was likely flowing the wrong way somewhere on the DC DC converter. If there is a TH-cam channel that wants to do a tear down video I would be happy to send it into them. They can run a little warm but they are not worked hard in a stationary setting. They can deliver 200a in the car and you’ve also got the AC to DC charger onboard which we are not using.

If you go with the original plan z-clips will serve you better than magnets!

Nice suggestion

It is indeed. Personally I wouldn’t use any other type on the side of my house

Elon’s face instead? 😂

@TheOfficialBatteryMan In the middle of a darts board maybe?

​@@simonpaine2347be nice now!

Not everyone is as emotionally fragile as you, I see no issue with saying it’s Tesla battery pack… when it’s a Tesla battery pack

I can fully charge and discharge the battery between 1-2times a day. I have other solar so generally keep this for import and export rather than house load. I don’t know if you’re familiar with Octopus agile. There is potential to buy and sell as the market demands but I’m on a simpler tariff. Will report back when I have more data

At the moment I’m moving about 2Megawatt a month back to the grid. The margins are fairly low. But it’s passive. And compared to more solar, it can run all year around and isn’t filling my entire garden. . . yet

@@TheOfficialBatteryMan Wow, great work. Looks like it will pay for itself in a reasonable time. I'd love to have a go at a project like this, but I'm put off by the massive learning I would need to go through in order to not die or blow stuff up 😅 What do you think the chances of systems like yours becoming commercially available. Do you know of companies aiming to re-sell second life EV batteries? Only seen this at large grid storage level so far

@ it depends where you live. In the UK we follow the electrical regulations BS7671. There is very little about battery storage in there at the moment that effects these sort of installs. I don’t see it taking off on a commercial scale. While they are energy dense and cost effective they are not really suited for installing in domestic settings due to their mass. Farms and commercial settings I could potentially see a container being dropped in with used EV batteries.

@@TheOfficialBatteryMan Thank you 👍

The biggest problem with magnets is the side force is much lower than the hold force. I have a ruck of them. We will get it all mounted and looking pretty. I’ve been playing with LEDs today. In addition to disconnecting the PCS I also had a poor ground to the board. Current was no doubt flowing the wrong way. The PCS was being used out of spec. As to what specifically happened on a board level I’m not smart enough to work it out. But it will be here for when the right person comes along to diagnose it. I’m hoping to find BuyitFixit email 😂

@@TheOfficialBatteryMan Create lips on either size of the panel, so it's a U shape, stops the side force issue because the panel can't go side ways.

Ahh sorry I didn’t mention your name specifically. Glad you spotted who I was talking about. I’ve got addressable LEDs connected to WLED. Just got to work out how to program it all. I was thinking of using a QLED controller for 3 sections. 2 sides and the middle backlit areas. All to be controlled based on home assistant entities. I’ve seen that WLED has a percentage option somewhere I can hopefully use, ideally showing either up or down depending on charge or discharge. As I say I’ve got a lot of learning to do.

@ yeah I’ve not dived into WLED, but I’m well vested into HA just make sure your doing it on something with more compute than a Raspberry Pi as this will be the backbone you will want to integrate everything 😂 I’ve been cheating and just using Govee stuff for the garden. So is the middle having function? I take it the sides are mirroring each other?

I stumped my toe the other day in the garage wearing them. And i knew I only had myself to blame 😂

Good shout. Nice one

Not thought of that

@ put the plasterboard in first then cover with the nice cladding, you get fire resistance and nice looks ;)

@ plasterboard is pretty strong 2 so gives some rigidity

@@TheOfficialBatteryMan pink is the fire resistant one

😂😂 😱

You have different types of clad and Clad with fire rating ;) just make sure you get one that is!

The plan was to bond the magnets to the cladding with adhesive. Enough of them will hold its more about sliding. Only the front 2 panels need to be removable

@TheOfficialBatteryMan That makes more sense 😃 Have you thought about just going with velcro?

Not so far. We’ve not had warn weather with the system yet. You’re right tho. The BMS reports 10c warmer than the cells. The charging module is only doing 12v power conversion to keep the standalone battery topped up so not much load

108 cells. LFP the earlier packs came with 106 cells

That has crossed my mind. Mainly out of curiosity to break the pack apart

I don’t have experience of them all to recommend. I have got on well with the FOX inverters and the single phase are simpler than the 3 phase board. Its going to depend what your after. How many arrays you have or need? Minimum MPPT voltage? Battery current? Connect to home assistant. So on

Yes a great way to confirm a good pack voltage level

@TheOfficialBatteryMan you can't pull power from that directly?

Yes it’s totally possibly. You would then be using the battery without the BMS system and you need one. It turns out that the BMS needs to know what the contactors are doing and see them closed to function correctly. And we do that by sending a CAN signal to the BMS to tell it to liven up as if it was in the car. These packs have everything we need so may as well use it all

@TheOfficialBatteryMan yeah awesome that makes sense, alot of work , I'm thinking of doing something similar so been watching your videos, thanks for taking the time to get it all up working

Umm I wouldn’t say cheaper. It depends what look you’re going for. One of the video aims is to show off what can be done in house roofs. We don’t need to bolt them on top kinda ugly

@@TheOfficialBatteryMan fair enough. You don't see this kind of install in the US...

@ you’ve got the Tesla solar roof tho 😂

I didn’t realise he used Tesla drivetrain

@@TheOfficialBatteryMan He used all 16 Tesla battery modules from whole 100kWh S/X pack and made custom boxes

Currently wired the BMS as the same input as the stark board. But the output the first pins to the right of the input should be able to be used. Then if the Stark looses power so will the BMS and the contactors will open

Thank you

Lessons learnt. Thanks for the comment. Connecting a load and keeping it connected is definably the solution. You’ve given a few options

Yeah it sort of makes a repair a little complicated. Subbed to Buy it Fix it

😂😂 what grey hair 😂

That’s really cool. How did you deal with water ingress? I almost feel an entire pack is simpler and that’s what I’m trying to show. One box with power out.

@@TheOfficialBatteryMan It's definitely simpler and absolutely the way to go. Mine are already in bits so I've got to take the hard route unfortunately. I did learn an awful lot about them though pulling them apart (long and short is don't ever do it! keep them in one piece). I ended up having to swap components between EU models, US models, dealing with different software versions, very uphill at times. It's so great to see the work that has been done by Dala and community. Inspiring stuff. Water ingress is dealt with by the four cells of each pack being rehomed in Aluminium cases that form part of the hull. It was a lot of very time consuming work. Those cases house water leak sensors (primarily for coolant leak detection) and the same automatic water purge valves that will be fitted to the 'Penthouse' underside end of your battery. We even installed CCTV cameras in the battery pack so you can do a visual inspection. I definitely have a spare PCS module, however mine will be an older 12v lead acid version. From my experience though swapping PCS's was amongst the least problematic of swaps.

I hope you've solved the issue with your PCS - I forgot to mention after watching your efforts to bypass the Tesla HV controller and drive the main contactors with solid state relays that you don't actually require the PCS (even installed or connected) to get the main contactors to close using the rest of the tesla system as is. But... how Dala's software copes with the missing PCS canbus messages I have no idea - but the Tesla HV controller doesn't actually care and will happily engage the HV contactors if the right conditions are met. (but this may no longer be the case with more modern software versions)

I’ve already helped a few people toward free connection upgrades through one of my recent videos, so not sure my DNO can be that happy with me 😂😂 seriously tho they are awesome. I dealt with a great team. Of anything with the DNO changes we will defiantly share it on the channel

I know does seem slow

Yes. I’m leaning toward a replacement board. I had been disconnecting what shouldn’t have been disconnected and had a poor connection when it was connected. So it looks to be entirely my fault. Live and learn.

@@TheOfficialBatteryMan Bad ground maybe, whole bunch of current down a wrong path. Hope you get it figured.

@@UCCLdIk6R5ECGtaGm7oqO-TQ I’ll make sure to clean the area and make a post showing the area

41 mm heavy duty unistrut. Centres between the 2 unistrut 1445mm

They are rubbish. Perished in less than a year. I won’t be recommending them. Class 0 is what you’re after. With normal gloves over the top to protect them.

Noted

A used EV part is defo one option with a fair price tag but would have the project right back on track

I was kinda being ironic to all those that think EVs have more fires. Hoping to reach a larger audience and bring in new viewers. There are only so many pics of me stood in front of the battery I can use as the thumbnail. But it’s very much noted that the thumbnail doesn’t appeal to you. Thanks for letting me know

@@TheOfficialBatteryMan I appreciate the response. I know I am only one comment and one viewer but I guess it triggered me as I think if I wasn’t already a subscriber, that comment would put me off watching your other videos.

Expensive yes. But for the level of power and stored energy it’s very cheap compared to an off the shelf system

Unless you’re watching a photonicinduction video, right? 😂😂

Thank you

I do like that idea. It could run off an esp32 and link back to home assistant. We have an emergency stop function in the Battery emulator so it could activate that. Or a sprinkler system